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Brian, what you actually need to do then if make sure when you look at the two adaptation channels for your DRLs that the dim value for both left and right are the same (for when low beams are on). It would be functions C&D or E&F.Quote:
Originally Posted by chihbriantien
If the values are already the same, then the lights you have bought aren't interpreting them correctly. You will just have to pick a value to match both sides by trial and error.
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Hi agentthumb,
I have already checked the dim value for both are the same, but I've never try to change the value.
I have another question before testing to change the value, please have look below:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=17725&stc=1
The DRL have two part 1 & 2, part 1 is the while dot LED which has the dimmer issue, part 2 is the U sharp LED which works no issue.
So, is that possible that I can only adjust the dim value for part 1?
I have already replace two sets of this OEM headlight, the first set the part 1 on the LEFT don't even glow! And every time I make a replacement of the light sets I have to paid one way shipping fee, which is quite a lot.... Just to hope I can make a workaround instead of continue paying the shipping....
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!
Brian Tien
Hey Brian, unfortunately I will have to defer this question to Don. I don't have HID on mine, so not sure if they can be programmed separately.Quote:
Originally Posted by chihbriantien
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Brian, Hi again!Quote:
Originally Posted by chihbriantien
OK, that's real weird behaviour indeed. I'm not sure about you fault but I suspect that there is an issue with the wiring/light assembly. As I have outlined in my Leuchte programming paper, the mk7 controls up to 35 exterior lamps. There are (as far as I know) only two direct channels that control the physical DRL lamp positions; the left DRL is allocated to Leuchte4TFL LB4 and the right DRL is allocated to Leuchte5TFL RB32. So, the "U" shaped lights in your picture (these are called "angel-eyes") should be driven by the same Leuchte channel-set as the inner DRLs - dots.
Two questions might clarify things (maybe)
First, I assume that the each HID assembly that arrived from China had the typical 14 pin connector, whereas the connector on your car would have been a 10 pin connector (I assume that you had Halogen lamps factory fitted). Did you make-up a loom to match the two and if so, have you re-checked that the cross-over wiring is correct?
Second: Did you make any changes to any Leuchte channels to accommodate the new LED lamps (i.e. to channel (1))?
Lastly, have you created a Adaptation map for the BCM on your car?
Cheers
Don
Has anyone managed to get auto rain close working on a MY15? Tried it twice yesterday, no joy. Worked fine on the MY13.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DV52
Hey Don, quick question, does this work with the rotary switch in the Auto position as well?
Never had the need for this until I had my car tinted. The default values seemed to work fine with the amount of natural light in the cabin without tinting, but as soon as I had my car tinted, I started having trouble reading the dash when the sun is shining from the side or back of the car. Thinking of using this tweak to alter the curve to have the cluster illuminated earlier.
Agentthumb: Hi. Short answer to your question is -YES.Quote:
Originally Posted by agentthumb
The control mechanism is the photo-transistor that is embedded into the instrument cluster. I suspect that it's the response from this transistor that has made your cluster illumination drop with the window tinting.
So, with my tweak, the cluster illumination is entirely dependent on the prevailing light level in the cabin- regardless of the rotary light switch position. This said, having the rotary switch on Auto will affect what happens to the cluster illumination at low light levels (in a good way - I think). With the rotary switch on Auto position, when dusk levels force the headlights to switch-on, the cluster illumination will increase to the normal "night" values whereas with the light switch in the off position, the cluster illumination will fall until you manually turn-on the headlights. Hope this makes sense!
Not sure how tinted windows will impact my tweak (I would welcome feedback-please), but if you find that my curve does not sufficiently light-up the cluster illumination, I suggest that you decrease the settings for X5 to X2 by a set amount (your choose the amount). I suggest that you DON'T change the setting for X1 because this setting provides a reminder signal to the driver to turn-on the headlights at dusk. Hope this makes sense too!
Cheers
Don
Thanks Don. I'll give it a go, observe and report back.Quote:
Originally Posted by DV52
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Don, been driving all day today after the tweak. Not once did I think the dash was too dark.
This tweak has worked like a charm. Thanks :)
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Agentthumb: Thanks for the feedback and well done - great to hear that the tweak was useful!Quote:
Originally Posted by agentthumb
On a different, but related matter - has the window tinting affected the operation of the anti-dazzle rear vision mirror in your car?
From my reading of VW's material, my understanding is that the rear vision mirror uses two sensors to set its dimming level. There is a light sensor pointing to the rear (positioned near the LED) and a separate sensor pointing forward toward the windshield (it's recessed into the black plastic housing). The dimming level of the mirror is determined by the difference in illumination between these two sensors. If the car's rear window is tinted and the windshield is not tinted (or, the windshield is not tinted as much), logic says that the dynamic of the anti-dazzle mirror should/will alter (I think). Does this happen on mk7 cars with tinted windows??
Cheers
Don
PS: on my car, I have taped-over the front light sensor on my anti-dazzle mirror. This means that every time that I switch on the mirror function, the level dims to maximum. Very low tech-but works great for me!