Finding First

[hugh.venables]

Hi Rick,
Have a look under the bonnet around the gearbox and see whether it is cable gearshift or lever and linkage. If it is lever and linkage it is very repairable and adjustable and I am about to post a thread on what I did to fix my daughter's Cordoba. I don't know much about the cable gearshift except the (fairly useless) Haynes manual says it can only be fixed by a Seat dealer. I doubt that but presumably it is a bit more difficult.
Hugh.

[Golf Loon]

Its the rod shift on that car. Can be adjusted with the 13mm nut on the shaft that comes from the gear shifter up into the engine bay. I`d put yur car in 5th, loosten that nut by leaning into the engine bay, then move the shift lever over a tiny bit, so 5th is more to the right in the gate and then retighten. This should make enough room for 1st.

[Rick_Eberle]

OK, I just had a look at the linkage with someone moving the shifter from side to side. (Definitely not cables, by the way).

When the gearstick is moved side to side, the shaft that comes out of the firewall, and through a plate is moving side to side about 1cm. It looks like we have a worn/broken plastic bushing at that point. (I'm assuming that the shaft should only rotate and move back and forth at that point?)

Is this an easy fix???

Thanks for the help!

[Golf Loon]

The bushing inside the metal gate, does it have a nice round rubber edge, or can you see a white flower type thing. The outers wear or melt away leaving only the white plastic inner that looks like a flower. You need to buy the ball on the shaft from VW, or find a suitable diameter piece of hose to fit over it. You take the shaft out by removing the 13mm nut on the top and the clip underneath.

[hugh.venables]

My daughters Cordoba had the same problem when we bought it. We had two buggered bushes.

The first was the roller on the vertical shaft which operates in a pressed steel fork. When the outside of the roller disintegrates and falls off, it leaves the hub intact which is a hard white plastic looking a bit like a flower. I didn't bother to price it as it is part of an assembly that looks a bit pricey and anyway it is easily fixed by pushing a short piece or pieces of PVC hose over the flower until the diameter of the roller is just a little bit smaller than the fork. It must not be tight in the fork or moving the gear lever from side to side will be difficult. I would take the flower and the fork to a hose supplier and see what they can dig up. I used a piece of 3/4" clear PVC hose with a piece of 1" reinforced PVC hose ofer the top.

The other was what I think you are seeing. The shaft (hollow tube) that comes out of the firewall is carried in an orange plastic bush in a vertical bracket. The bush has a spherical bump (ball) in the middle. On our car, the ball part of bush is housed between the bracket and a pressed steel housing pop rivetted to the bracket. On later VW Golfs, the bush is carried in a black plastic housing which bayonets into a hole with two keyways in the bracket. I suspect it is made of polyurethane and should probably be lubricated with a special grease or it might not last long before it disintegrates again. Not long might still be many years. I would pack the grooves in the bush with grease.

If you have the pop riveted version you need 191711208A ($6.63 + GST). I haven't tried to fit ours yet (probably today, the bodge-up I did to get it going is still going) but you will probably need to drill out the pop rivets and re-rivet over the new bush.

If you have the bayonet version, the whole bush and housing assembly is 191711190B ($30.10 + GST). Just go to your local VW dealer and quote the part number and they will get it in for you.

It's not hard to fit but a little tricky to adjust on reassembly. Take note of how much of the hollow shaft is protruding from the clamp before you pull it apart. The (faily useless) Haynes manual says to adjust the gear shift with first gear selected until there is 1 m.m. clearance between the reverse lockout block at the left of the gear lever inside the car with the boot removed.

Good luck, Hugh.

[Rick_Eberle]

Thanks guys! I think we're talking about the same part, Hugh. I didn't see pop-rivets, though it looks like there is a nut facing forward on the bracket.

The green arrow points to the offending part, and the yellow is the direction that it's moving.
Attachment 1910

And a close-up:
Attachment 1911

What's the easiest way to get at it? From above, or below???

[hugh.venables]

Yes Rick, we are talking about the same part. Under the head of your green arrow is the pressed steel housing that houses the ball part of the bush. If that is a nut under the grunge that is where ours has pop rivets. If it's got screws and nuts it will be a little easier.

Ours was easy enough from above but your engine is different and you may not have as easy access. I have looked at ours from underneath and it could also be done from there but would be much easier on a hoist.

The whole assembly is bolted to a bracket on the top of the steering rack with 3 bolts. You will also have to undo the nut on the clamp around the hollow shaft, slide the sleeve and fork forward off the hollow shaft and remove the two links, one with "R" clips both ends and the other with plastic ball sockets which unclip and pull off. These links would be difficult to remove from underneath. When you re-assemble it all, it is the position where you clamp the sleeve onto the hollow shaft that adjusts the gear shift. It might take you a few adjustments until you get it right.

The wheel that operates in the fork looks OK in your photos, but have a good look at it when you've got it all out.
Hugh