Central Locking woes

[Idle]

That one remote failed before the other suggests that the batteries may be low, so my first move would be to change one — they're cheap (CR2023, from memory) readily available on the 'net and from computer shops and not difficult to DIY.

The locking fault could be due to a faulty wire where the cables pass from pillar to door usually the driver's door, which gets the most use.)
It's a well-documented problem, as also are failing MkV door locks.

[maelgwn]

That one remote failed before the other suggests that the batteries may be low, so my first move would be to change one — they're cheap (CR2023, from memory) readily available on the 'net and from computer shops and not difficult to DIY.

The locking fault could be due to a faulty wire where the cables pass from pillar to door usually the driver's door, which gets the most use.)
It's a well-documented problem, as also are failing MkV door locks.

Yes - tried changing the batteries when they were failing without success.

Had a look at the wires in the drivers door (as much as I could see without taking the door card off) - and they looked ok. Would this report as a fault in VAG-COM?

[Idle]

Had a look at the wires in the drivers door (as much as I could see without taking the door card off) - and they looked ok. Would this report as a fault in VAG-COM?

It should, but might not — any break ought to be where the wires actually flex, and may not be obvious.

Look for signs of unevenness or heat marks in the insulation — if you find any, tug at that point and see if it will stretch a bit.

If it does, the wire is likely to be broken (note that the broken ends will make intermittent contact until the ends burn away a bit.)

[maelgwn]

Which module talks to the remotes? Is that the CCM or something else?

[vdubmotorworx]

46 convienence unit still on a mk5 .. newer ones are through 09 central electrics...

[HiTorque]

It should, but might not — any break ought to be where the wires actually flex, and may not be obvious.

Look for signs of unevenness or heat marks in the insulation — if you find any, tug at that point and see if it will stretch a bit.

If it does, the wire is likely to be broken (note that the broken ends will make intermittent contact until the ends burn away a bit.)

If you have problems with driver door lock, check wires in black rubber grommet between the door and chassis.

[vdubmotorworx]

start with one thing at a time.... remotes.. forget the back doors for now.. did the battery have 3 volts? when the battery is in the remote does the red light light up on the remote? if yes to both and you have VAGCOM try and recode the remote as sometimes they can loose there code when its had a flat battery...VDUB...

[maelgwn]

start with one thing at a time.... remotes.. forget the back doors for now.. did the battery have 3 volts? when the battery is in the remote does the red light light up on the remote? if yes to both and you have VAGCOM try and recode the remote as sometimes they can loose there code when its had a flat battery...VDUB...

Ok - thanks VDUB. Ill check battery voltage tonight but red light comes on.

Dont have VAGCOM but will ask Transporter to try programming the keys next time he is around.

[vdubmotorworx]

I actually had one that the battery had 3 volts but it still didn't work, didn't have a remote in stock so just by the off chance I fitted a new battery and all was ok, might be worth getting one anyway as they are only about 4 bucks. CR2025 I think.. it will say on the battery....