Support VWWC

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 50

Thread: Tyresome decisions

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
    Posts
    1,472
    Users Country Flag

    Quote Originally Posted by brad View Post
    No, better tyres on the rear for FWD. In short, it's because the average driver can control under-steer better than over-steer.
    Absolutely!!!

    This year I have been racing the FWD Nissan Pulsar and have learnt just how savage FWD lift off over steer can be, it's caught me out big time in three different circumstances.

    While stiffer rear sway bars help FWD handling they also exaggerate FWD lift off over steer which is why I don't like seeing people putting stiff rear sway bars into street FWD cars (doing both front and rear sway bars is safer)
    Last edited by Martin; 21-10-2015 at 09:22 AM.
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
    APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
    APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
    Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
    Posts
    1,472
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by woofy View Post
    Certainly the car dealers swap them around that way, ie Mazda, Hyundai, Skoda/Audi that I deal regularly with.
    Trouble is they just swap the wheels without any inspection or thought

    Years ago my wife destroyed the left front wheel hitting a large rock at 70kmph
    I was busy with work and let the insurance deal with it
    The car was under warranty at that stage so we were still using Mazda service

    The first problem post repair was the wife complaining of noise in the rear
    I discovered the repairer was not technically competent enough to stow the spare wheel
    It was upside down and not secured
    This was a warning sign which I failed to react to

    The repair job didn't do a wheel alignment - subsequent usage destroyed the front tyres
    (my wife is unable to detect this and didn't mention to me that the car was not behaving normally)
    So the dealer service rotated the tyres - which destroyed the rear set which were put on the front
    We went to a social event and used the Madza - first time I had driven the Mazda in 9 months
    I was horrified with the road noise and steering feel - a quick inspection of the tyres made realize they were all toast - $$$

    There have been a number of situations like this - if I don't get involved in the car repairs, problems occur and persist
    Last edited by Martin; 20-10-2015 at 10:13 AM.
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
    APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
    APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
    Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,729
    Hmm the problem is, and why they would rotate it that way is that the fronts wear way faster over time. You would end up with the situation described earlier where the rears were static and the fronts kept getting replaced. After 6-mths our fronts are always lower than the rears which seem to hardly change at all.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    163
    Users Country Flag
    I have the Eagle F1 AS2's on my RS... together with koni FSD's, Eibach springs and Whiteline swaybar it gives unbelievable amount of grip, and amazingly there aint to much difference even when its wet...

    Only problem I have with these tyres is treadwear... I dont know if im doing something different but I will get max 20k out of these... on 15k now and they are already pretty low.

    I dont hammer off the line, its mainly cornering that I push it but to hear people getting 40k+ out of these tyres is making me think something aint right... Got em done at Jax and also got Nitrogen and havent needed a top up at all.

    No way can I afford $1k per year/20kms... Ideally I would like to get 40k out of them..

    Thoughts..?

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Brisbane - QLD
    Posts
    1,250
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by dportaz View Post
    I have the Eagle F1 AS2's on my RS... together with koni FSD's, Eibach springs and Whiteline swaybar it gives unbelievable amount of grip, and amazingly there aint to much difference even when its wet...

    Only problem I have with these tyres is treadwear... I dont know if im doing something different but I will get max 20k out of these... on 15k now and they are already pretty low.

    I dont hammer off the line, its mainly cornering that I push it but to hear people getting 40k+ out of these tyres is making me think something aint right... Got em done at Jax and also got Nitrogen and havent needed a top up at all.

    No way can I afford $1k per year/20kms... Ideally I would like to get 40k out of them..

    Thoughts..?
    alignment??

    Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
    Mitsubishi Pajero Sport - Super Select 2WD/4WD
    Toyota 86 GTS Performance Pack Moon Slate - RWD
    MINI Cooper S Clubman - FWD

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Erskineville, NSW
    Posts
    7,595
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by dportaz View Post
    I have the Eagle F1 AS2's on my RS... together with koni FSD's, Eibach springs and Whiteline swaybar it gives unbelievable amount of grip, and amazingly there aint to much difference even when its wet...

    No way can I afford $1k per year/20kms... Ideally I would like to get 40k out of them..

    Thoughts..?
    First thought is that you are paying over the odds for tyres. I can get 225/40r18 F1A2 for $210 each.

    Does 20k include any front to back rotations?

    What pressure are you running?

    Who does your alignments?

    WHen was the last alignment done? What were the readings?

    Does the tyre wear look even or is there edge or centre wear or anything else odd?

    Assume you are on factory 18x7.5"?
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    163
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by brad View Post
    First thought is that you are paying over the odds for tyres. I can get 225/40r18 F1A2 for $210 each.

    Does 20k include any front to back rotations?

    What pressure are you running?

    Who does your alignments?

    WHen was the last alignment done? What were the readings?

    Does the tyre wear look even or is there edge or centre wear or anything else odd?

    Assume you are on factory 18x7.5"?
    First thought is that you are paying over the odds for tyres. I can get 225/40r18 F1A2 for $210 each.
    a) $1k were for the tyres, inc fitting, balanced, alignment, nitrogen.. Best I could find locally to me as I had popped both my left tyres so couldn't drive to far. I know that moving forward I'll have more time hopefully so can get all that for $900...

    Does 20k include any front to back rotations?
    Yes - done one rotation so far and will probably do another one.

    What pressure are you running?
    I believe it was set at around 38..

    Who does your alignments?
    Jax did the allignment

    WHen was the last alignment done? What were the readings?
    15k ago in Jan. Not sure.

    Does the tyre wear look even or is there edge or centre wear or anything else odd?
    Tyre wear is even..

    Assume you are on factory 18x7.5"?
    Yes, 225/40/18

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Erskineville, NSW
    Posts
    7,595
    Users Country Flag
    Where is "locally to you"?
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Brisbane - QLD
    Posts
    1,250
    Users Country Flag
    could be defective tyres if you kill a set of f1a2 in 20k km Tyresome decisions




    Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
    Mitsubishi Pajero Sport - Super Select 2WD/4WD
    Toyota 86 GTS Performance Pack Moon Slate - RWD
    MINI Cooper S Clubman - FWD

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,729

    We have clocked over 60k in the original fitted Micheline PE2s, had even wear the whole way through and still have tread left. Probably will replace them later this year, although we will be selling the car soon, and there is plenty of tread left really. Plan to put PS3s on it. Really haven't found an answer to how you are supposed to rotate the tyres with the proposed newer way of rotating. If you always have the better tyres at the back on a FWD, the only option is to swap them side to side. The rear tyres will never been worn more. So your only option is to wear out the fronts, replace them and put the new on the back and the rear on the front. And hope you like the same brand of tyre as it will be a rare time you could replace them all at once and get another type.

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
| |