Lowering the RS

[brad]

/bookmarks tool page

So the strut fits a bit like a Koni insert? eg: a bolt comes straight up from the bottom but there is also a clamp like arrangement to reduce shear forces on the lower bolt? and this clamp needs to be spread?

Does the spreader just take a socket & breaker bar? (ie: it isn't 1/2" drive).

A mate I work with can probably make some if I had some dimensions. How big is the slot normally & how much "spread" do you need? How long does the shaft/rod have to be?

found this install thread and this

Also, do the drive shafts really have to come out?

I'm hoping to find a cheap seat of newish GTI shocks & springs somewhere.

[mrx]

/bookmarks tool page

So the strut fits a bit like a Koni insert? eg: a bolt comes straight up from the bottom but there is also a clamp like arrangement to reduce shear forces on the lower bolt? and this clamp needs to be spread?

Does the spreader just take a socket & breaker bar? (ie: it isn't 1/2" drive).

A mate I work with can probably make some if I had some dimensions. How big is the slot normally & how much "spread" do you need? How long does the shaft/rod have to be?

found this install thread and this

Also, do the drive shafts really have to come out?

I'm hoping to find a cheap seat of newish GTI shocks & springs somewhere.

While bookmarking that tool page, it is also necessary to have the 14mm "triple square" or xzn driver (I bought a whole set off Ebay for US$20, there are a few different sized xzn bolts on the car). You could also buy the 21mm "thru-socket" thing metalnerd has to get the top of the struts undone, but I was able to find a 13/16's offset ring spanner and a 7mm hex driver locally (I went to Repco last, but they seem to have quite a bit of stuff - forgot to check if they had the xzn driver or strut spreader though).

I think the spreader has a 1/2 drive hole underneath. I'm sure zz2 will be able to provide some dimensions of the strut spreader when he gets it. There is no bolt underneath, basically it is just sits in a clamp at the bottom of the strut, and you need to open this up - it is thick steel so is quite difficult. I guestimate the gap is about 7mm & you would need to splay it open by at least another 5mm to make it easy to remove the strut. There is also a tab attached to the strut, which fits in the gap in the clamp - this got in the way with the cold chisel technique.

The drive shaft on the side with the longest shaft didn't have to come out. We wasted a couple of hours trying to get the other side out without removing the shaft - it just wasn't going to happen. Maybe on the GTI you can squeeze it past because they have 20mm, or 32mm in your case, less spring height to begin with. I'll probably end up replacing the bolt, but haven't yet. Technically your supposed to replace just about every single bolt you remove on the car, but most suggest the axle bolts and possibly the strut clamp bolts are enough (as a precautionary measure).

Be careful if you put GTI suspension on there. The reason I specifically ordered Eibach springs from Europe is because all the GTI springs have a slightly lower load rating compared to the Skoda.

[brad]

Good stuff snipped.

Yeah, I got stuck last year doing the clutch on my Golf - nobody had ever heard of a triple-square head (bolts for the drive shafts). I finished up butchering all 12 of them off and replacing them with normal Allen head bolts.

For the strut tops, I just use a rattle gun & black 6-point sockets - works every time.

The spreader definatly doesn't have 1/2" drive. If you read his convoluted description it uses a 13mm or 1/2" socket or ring spanner (box wrench). The circlip is to stop the ring spanner slipping off. I could definately get these made fairly cheap providing i can get some 1/2" hex bar stock. I doubt it would even need case hardening providing you used a 6-point socket (less stress on the corners).


Thanks for the heads-up on GTI spring rates. Probably won't do anything for ages anyway.

[mrx]

Here's a few pics of the final product, now that the springs have settled & the eyebrows finally arrived (mental note: don't pay the cheap postage from the Czech Republic). Painted grill & eyebrows, lower springs, dark tint. Total cost, just under $1000 + my time.

[DaveMack]

Looks EXCELLENT! A real 'sleeper' ...

Dave

[mrx]

Looks EXCELLENT! A real 'sleeper' ...

Dave

Yeah, it does look a bit like it's on drugs. After lots of should I, shouldn't I, I asked the owner of the car & she said they must go on - so who was I to argue?

For some reason everybody wants to try & drag off my wife when she's driving it - but they all end up in the rearview mirror - maybe due to those few extra ponies that SWMBO also decreed must be installed.

[brad]

looks good.

Who / what is your contact for parts / accessories?

I want to buy some mudspats for mine. Aussie price is $90. UK price is only a few dollars less when postage is added.

i wanted to paint my chrome surround to match the car but swmbo vetoed the idea. I think red with the black grill infill would look OK.

[mrx]

looks good.

Who / what is your contact for parts / accessories?

I want to buy some mudspats for mine. Aussie price is $90. UK price is only a few dollars less when postage is added.

i wanted to paint my chrome surround to match the car but swmbo vetoed the idea. I think red with the black grill infill would look OK.

My wife was the opposite, she only wanted to buy the Skoda if it had done to it what I've just completed.

Check out www.superskoda.com for lots of stick on type bits & pieces, but don't pay the cheap postage like I did or you'll be waiting 10 weeks for delivery.

For performance bits & pieces I found JKM Performance in the UK to offer excellent service & prices. Delivery was expensive but fast (3 days for my springs to arrive), and it still only cost me $400 instead of buying locally for $600+