New intercooler

[h100vw]

at the recent polo dyno my iat were around 60c ambient was about 30. and it doesn't seem to be putting down the right amount of power for the boost i run. last dyno was about 135kwatw running around 22psi. it just feels like its pulling back at high rpm

Lito, we should log that on the street and not the dyno. Even at 60 my Polo was going hard. When did you last put some plugs in it?

Gavin

[Lito]

Lito, we should log that on the street and not the dyno. Even at 60 my Polo was going hard. When did you last put some plugs in it?

Gavin

hmm, well last time i did plugs was less than 5k ago. i have a new set ready to go in just waiting on a new cts to arrive (taking soooo long, thank you x-mas post rush). i was gonna see if that made it any better but if not the only thing left is the ic or the maf... i wouldn't mind doing some more logging though, just to narrow down what's going on

[Njay]

what the frankenturbo F4h rated to, didn't troy pull 155kw atw with one

[Lito]

what the frankenturbo F4h rated to, didn't troy pull 155kw atw with one

yeah around that, and im pretty sure that was only a base file too

[Sirocco20348]

I've only been looking up air intake temps over the last couple of days, so its still a bit foreign to me.

I know lower is better, but what is a realistic good air intake temp at WOT 3rd gear 6000rpm at 25-30 degrees ambiant temp?

Are the powergaskets worthwhile to take heat away from the intake manifold?

[h100vw]

I've only been looking up air intake temps over the last couple of days, so its still a bit foreign to me.

I know lower is better, but what is a realistic good air intake temp at WOT 3rd gear 6000rpm at 25-30 degrees ambiant temp?

Are the powergaskets worthwhile to take heat away from the intake manifold?

I think if you can get within 5-10 degrees of ambient, that's pretty good.

From what I have read though, the pressure drop across the IC is more important. ie do you want the turbo working real hard to produce 20 PSI in the intake when the IC is dropping 5 PSI. So to get the requested boost you are introducing a heap of heat. Effectively negating the boost.

My A3 when I first fitted the JBS04 was flicking up to 28PSI yet when that was turned down to a realistic 21/22 it went just as well (butt dyno).

So in the scheme of things, dropped boost pressure (volume of air) is more important than increased intake temps (to a point).

Lito, why not fit another boost gauge before the IC and compare that with the one after?? I plan on doing this with the Polo in the near future.

Gavin

[Sirocco20348]

From what I have read though, the pressure drop across the IC is more important. ie do you want the turbo working real hard to produce 20 PSI in the intake when the IC is dropping 5 PSI. So to get the requested boost you are introducing a heap of heat. Effectively negating the boost.

VERY interesting. So is that the 2 values in vagcom: Boost Pressure 'Actual' and 'Requested'. ?

So the engine is requesting for example 20 psi, but with an inefficient intercooler the turbo my actually be pushing the equivilant to 25psi to correct the pressure drop?

Am I on the right track? Sorry for hijacking thread, Im just contemplating what I would do in Lito's position.

What density internal fin design is better from the 2 below?

CX racing core: (probably similar to godspeed as its the same price on ebay)


Treadstone:

[vwthunder]

what the frankenturbo F4h rated to, didn't troy pull 155kw atw with one

Yeah it was around that, graph is somewhere

They didnt give it a proper run and pulled it off the dyno as they couldnt get a AFR reading and didnt want to risk doing damage to the engine. The few little runs they did, well they were only playing

My scangauge reads the intake temp a 1 or 2 degrees over ambient