Its good seeing fabrications that others have done. I'm planning on doing some rear trailing arm braces similar to that. Why are you making them adjustable, just to get rid of the play? So are you not running a rear sway bar?
Here are some ideas:
Bracing down the strut towers, mk1s love to bend at the bottom of the struts
Roll cage footing, probably not the greatest, but effective
Strut towers
Sway bars, i dont think this is standard, i remember the guy i bought the car off saying something about xf falcon?
Rear Toe adjustment/stabiliser bars, I am modifying these atm to make them adjustable.
Cage:
This bit of the cage is a shocker, if the bars were a little lower would be easier to get in and out of, its a real pig
I hope this helps
-Jamie
76' Mk1 Rally Car, 1800 8v haltech ecu
94' Fairmont Ghia, v8, big cam, leather, perfect for towing golfs
89' EA ex taxi, lpg, cheap and easy
Its good seeing fabrications that others have done. I'm planning on doing some rear trailing arm braces similar to that. Why are you making them adjustable, just to get rid of the play? So are you not running a rear sway bar?
Making them adjustable so i can adjust the toe, i have been lucky that so far it has been sitting at about the right toe, but the left one isnt quite right and every corner u go around it will move.
That trailing arm has been butchered quite a bit, i dont think i would go quite that drastic on the "Swiss cheese" but it does work very well. I would suggest you go small diameter bar or chrome molly, and rose joints arent cheap! The reason for that is you want to keep your unsprung weight right down to get your suspension working right.
And not running a sway bar, with that setup i dont think there would be any gain and more weight
-Jamie
76' Mk1 Rally Car, 1800 8v haltech ecu
94' Fairmont Ghia, v8, big cam, leather, perfect for towing golfs
89' EA ex taxi, lpg, cheap and easy
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