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Thread: SAI and N249 Removal

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  1. #1
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    I have read people say that with the N249 removed that their cars are boosting better, dont know if this is true or not

    Anyway guessing no one has done it here yet

    For anyone interested there is 88 pages here, happy reading


    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-N249-PCV-EVAP

  2. #2
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    Have a look at Polo UK site, many common things there that dont happen here.

    I bypassed my N249 for a while, could not tell the difference so I reconnected it as it did not make sense to leave disconnected if I could not feel any difference.

    Be aware that info on Vortex may relate to different ECU's, thus really a different result / effect. Have not read that thread.

  3. #3
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    I thought in remove that thing from my car... but I decided not to.
    It is a good fail safe.
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  4. #4
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    TRUE! (in my situation)

    The car is boosting faster and I’m feeling a better turbo response.
    The BOV’s sound changed, it is more “dry”.
    What I did...
    I pulled from the intake, the hose that feed vacuum to the N249 and EGR system and I connected the BOV in its place.
    I’m going to remove the entire system and probably the SAI too.




    Quote Originally Posted by vwthunder View Post
    I have read people say that with the N249 removed that their cars are boosting better, dont know if this is true or not

    Anyway guessing no one has done it here yet

    For anyone interested there is 88 pages here, happy reading


    DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP
    SILVER TEAM

  5. #5
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    So now I'm intrigued with this again...

    Removing or bypassing the N249 removes the Cars ability to use the vac system to bleed boost. Does this mean you can remove the whole vac system or are there other components that require this?

    With the SAI bypass, is this going to make the car unroadworthy for emissions? I don't like the SAI system as it looks pretty flimsy and has lots of leak potential, but will this screw with the AFR on startup? Could that cause issues? Looks like just the little blanking plate and basic parts are required...

  6. #6
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    The N249 not only bleed boost, it make the boost smooth. I don’t know what VW engineers tried to achieve with this system, first I thought it was a failsafe, but now it look just like another gizmo. I notice (in my situation) the turbo boosting 500rpm earlier, that’s a lot!

    I’m pretty sure it is possible to remove the entire system without affecting other components. I start the engine with the solenoids disconnected and I didn’t have an engine light. In the worst case scenario a transistor will be needed.

    The SAI only work when the catalyst and sensors are heating up. After that, it becomes dead weight. I drove the car almost 100km with the bypass and I had no problems. I don’t think any problem can be generated with its removal.

    I’m thinking in say goodbye to the N75 also. Just connect the WG to the intake manifold and be happy.

    Quote Originally Posted by noone View Post
    So now I'm intrigued with this again...

    Removing or bypassing the N249 removes the Cars ability to use the vac system to bleed boost. Does this mean you can remove the whole vac system or are there other components that require this?

    With the SAI bypass, is this going to make the car unroadworthy for emissions? I don't like the SAI system as it looks pretty flimsy and has lots of leak potential, but will this screw with the AFR on startup? Could that cause issues? Looks like just the little blanking plate and basic parts are required...
    SILVER TEAM

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plautos View Post
    The N249 not only bleed boost, it make the boost smooth. I don’t know what VW engineers tried to achieve with this system, first I thought it was a failsafe, but now it look just like another gizmo. I notice (in my situation) the turbo boosting 500rpm earlier, thats a lot!

    I’m pretty sure it is possible to remove the entire system without affecting other components. I start the engine with the solenoids disconnected and I didn’t have an engine light. In the worst case scenario a transistor will be needed.

    The SAI only work when the catalyst and sensors are heating up. After that, it becomes dead weight. I drove the car almost 100km with the bypass and I had no problems. I don’t think any problem can be generated with its removal.

    I’m thinking in say goodbye to the N75 also. Just connect the WG to the intake manifold and be happy.
    I'm not sure about removing the SAI as the return air is expected on startup, surely this would mess with the AFR for the first 1 min?

    As for bypassing the N75, unless you are using a MBC, how would you control the wastegate?

    I'm not sure if these would work too well for normal driving, as your car is set up for track use, maybe a little different?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by noone View Post
    As for bypassing the N75, unless you are using a MBC, how would you control the wastegate?
    Yeah that is what i was thinking

    I have a manual boost controller sitting here, will put it in when i have time and hopefully see a spike over 17.6psi, which is what i am getting according to logging

  9. #9
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    In a fuel injected car, there are some moments the emissions are disregarded. Normally is the warming up period and in some cases when you give full throttle. The SAI pump and EGR are just gizmos to make the car greener.

    You have to remember the lambda sensors only work when they are hot and they are responsible to help the engine with AFR.

    The N75 is one other failsafe gizmo. It works blocking the pressurized air to the WG, therefore we have boost. If you disconnect it, the air will pass through it opening the WG.

    What I will do. I will recalibrate the WG. I will tighten it more to open after 1,4bar.
    One other option it to use a MBC. It will work fine too.



    Quote Originally Posted by noone View Post
    I'm not sure about removing the SAI as the return air is expected on startup, surely this would mess with the AFR for the first 1 min?

    As for bypassing the N75, unless you are using a MBC, how would you control the wastegate?

    I'm not sure if these would work too well for normal driving, as your car is set up for track use, maybe a little different?
    Quote Originally Posted by vwthunder View Post
    Yeah that is what i was thinking

    I have a manual boost controller sitting here, will put it in when i have time and hopefully see a spike over 17.6psi, which is what i am getting according to logging
    SILVER TEAM

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