Quote:
Originally Posted by Fab_R
UNREAL dude, fantastic time!
Getting my R tomorrow, then straight to the paint shop to get the 19"s refinished in Metallic Gunmetal. Will post pictures as soon as I get it back at the end of the week.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fab_R
UNREAL dude, fantastic time!
Getting my R tomorrow, then straight to the paint shop to get the 19"s refinished in Metallic Gunmetal. Will post pictures as soon as I get it back at the end of the week.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fab_R
Hey Fabs, when are you taking your R down the 1/4 for some official times?
Sensational time fab!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fab_R
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferret
Thanks guys...This thing is unbelievable quick!Quote:
Originally Posted by runningmanz
Re doing a 1/4 mile time...im itching to do it, just got to get down to the street drags at some stage, but the ultra stick surface of a launch pad scares me to what it could do to my driveline.
Personally I don't hold much faith in the gtechs as I've seen varying results of up to 0.7 seconds down the qtr with the unit in the car at the same time while running the qtr mile down the track (not me but others).Quote:
Originally Posted by Fab_R
I plan on going down the track again sometime soon and a mate of mine does have a gtech type device so I might get a hold of it to do some comparisons.
I doubt your drive train will fall out, just give it a go!!! :cookie:
The Gtech Pro SS has been proven to be very accurate
from their website also:
Quote:
The Gtech Pro Competition is extremely accurate and repeatable. We routinely take 12 new Gtechs at random and subject them to testing in a controlled environment that eliminates variables such as pitch, mounting system problems, etc. Typically, all 12 Gtechs measure the same 1/4 mile time for a 1-g run, plus or minus five thousandths of a second.
For horsepower measurements, we have observed accuracy and repeatability in the range of 1-3 percent.
The accuracy and repeatability of your results can be influenced by many factors, such as vehicle pitch, road surface, environment, mounting system, driving style, etc.
Hey guys
So after having a look at the frankly excellent job Dave @ Reflect Effect did with applying Opti-Coat on my car, I noticed something that I never noticed before. After the full clean + opticoat treatment, the car is "popping" a lot more and the candy white seems to have more depth somehow...
But as I was squatting to put on the OEM headlight protectors I got from VW the other day, I noticed there was some, well, lets not call them "dents" but rather something weird? (to me anyway)
Its like as if the front 2 quarter panels on the Golf R's havent been smoothed (for those that have the Golf R you'll see what I mean). And I thought it was a flaw on just my car. Quickly logging on to the net and trying to find pictures of high res golf R's I came across this (this is shakespeares car)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...01/what2-2.jpg
See the circle part?
Now since the car is detailed somewhat, this kind of "indentation" is more visible now. I know now having a look at these pics that its not a flaw on just my car alone but just curious....why would VW design it liek that instead of having it smoothed? opinions?
I think it's cause you're looking at that part in isolation.
Take this wider view:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru..._R20LJPG-1.jpg
The "shoulder" line of the car runs all the way along the side from the rear tail-lights to the front lights. The reason you may think it looks weird is that the front wheel arch flares out in the middle of this line, so it's kinda broken.
But if the line wasn't there between the front wheel arch and the front lights, it'd look weird and cheap to me! That's the kinda "short cut" that Toyota would take to save a few cents on their cars :)
Edit:
Oh, and the Bi-Xenon's have been designed to extend the line too... but you really only notice it on the chrome versions:
http://www.modpark.com/images-2011-i...lf-mk6-r-3.jpg
Not the best angle... but hope you get what I'm talking about.
Corey thanks again for your assistance. Yeah was just walking around the car admiring it when I came across that. It makes sense now. And yeah looking at that part in isolation does look a bit strange but since you've said that it makes perfect sense.
Just another q, did you pay APR that extra to revert the ECU back to stock when you got your R APR'ed? I think the price was for a 1 year term, it was 100, 2 years, 200 and 3 years 300....
Any concerns when taking it for servicing?
The R is now my third car with the APR software and/or hardware. I've had no issues at my dealer previously with the software mods, nor with hardware mods. Since I intend to go to Stage II+, there is no point for me in getting the "back to stock" option, since I'm not going to spend a day removing hardware each time I need to go back to the dealer.
Whether it is worth it would completely depend on your own point of view, and also how your dealer reacts to the subject...