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Recently did a flush and thought I'd try g13. Have been running a week odd and must say the result has been very disappointing to say the least. Coolant temp on average is higher, can't run my air con with coolant teno soaring too 100c and have also noticed my oil temp is now averaging 100c as opposed to 94-96c. Has anyone else has any issues with this coolant? I'm ready to dump and go back to my old brand...
What about other things like pressure cap, thermostat, and radiator condition? Have you tested the fans?
100deg Celcius for coolant temp isn't boiling when it's pressurised.
Bare in mind, the weather has been getting pretty hot these last few days.
You're doing well with an average oil temp of 94-96... I sit at 100-105 up here in brissy.
Whole cooling system is virtually brand new. New t stat, t stat housing, flanges, crack pipe in last 6 months. All new silicone hoses in last 3 months and a new aluminum radiatorca week ago. Expansuon tank and cap also new. Has been bleed properly etc..has only started running high since the g13 put in. Even when driving, coolant temp pretty much on average between 88c -90c. Normally only hits 90c if sitting in traffic. Otherwise normally 80c -82c when driving consistently. I've never had my coolant temp hit 100c with air con on even in a hot day. Oil temp also noticeably higher. Fans all work properly and cone on at 90c.me thinks me going back to valvoline zerex g05. As it stands, out performs g13 by a mile. I was speaking with kay offline and he also mentioned he was using a castrol coolant and swapped to g13 recently and he also noticed higher temps and he is also going back to his normal coolant of choice..maybe g13 and vr6 don't mix?
Yeah. Even on a hot day driving on motorway, I haven't hit past 104c. Now I'm sitting on a 100c just putting around...
Has anyone else had any similar experiences with G13?
I run g13 but admittedly get the higher oil temps you're talking about. Although I sit at about 90C with coolant temp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubbs76
interesting. starting to think that that G13 dont like VR6's lol.. as mentioned, def have noticed higher temps since using it. come weekend, im going to be dumping it, complete flush again and going back to valvoline zerex g05. I guess it is just suited more to the newer VW's. unfortunate as im all or the environmental factor, less emmissions, etc... but aint killin my ride over it...
The VR6's run pretty damn warm, even with the G12/G12+ I was running over 100c on oil most of the time and well above that if you pushed it hard. I seriously considered getting an oil cooler, but then it was really only an issue when it was on the track :P
Even though oil would go up I never saw the coolant needle go anywhere but straight up, pointing at 90. Other than the fact it built up to that point while warming up I'd almost say it didn't work! It was always completely stable.
How do you find it with the air con on? when air con on, coolant tem siting at 100c. that crazy.. does yours do the same or does it saty at 90cQuote:
Originally Posted by The_Hawk
I sold mine a couple of years ago, but it got driven to QLD, VIC and all over NSW without issues. It always stayed right on 90 AC or not.
What mixture ratio did you use? Did you bleed the system properly so there is no trapped air?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubbs76
Hang on - you changed the thermostat.
Nobody asked - is the new thermostat the same as the old one (temp range).
There is no reason at all that it would be the fault of the G13. You can prove it with mathematics and chemistry pretty easily that if you are running the same ratio of coolant/water, then no matter what the brand is, theres no way it will have an impact on cooling efficiency of more than a couple of percent. You just cant vary the heat capacity or its conductive properties by that much - coolant is basically just ethylene glycol, with some additives for corrosion reistance, etc.
More likely, either the new thermostat opens at a higher temperature than the old one, or the concentration of coolant/water has changed.
If you want the best cooling efficiency, you run more water - it has higher heat capacity than the ethylene glycol.
Its possible that if you have varied the concentration by a lot when you switched from old to new, this is the reason.
See below for more info:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/et...col-d_146.html
Just to be clear on a couple of points:
Coolant takes more pumping effort than pure water
Coolant heat capacity is less than pure water
Therefore, if you change your coolant and end up with a ratio that is more concentrated ethylene glycol than before, then you can expect, (All other things begin equal) that the mean operating temperature might increase.
I'm using G13 coolant in my mk3 2E engine without issues. Second gldgti, only a thermostat with a higher opening temp would give you the result you are experiencing. I have used a higher ratio of coolant to water and only had a very slight temperature increase indicated on the temp gauge.
Hey mate, t stat is new and the same as old one. I played with the ratio on the seconf dump and made it a 40/60 ratio. made a slight diff but still pretty poor. ..ill dump again on weekend, re mix and give it another go. if no improvement, just gonna go back to using my original brand of coolant.. thanks for your help, much appreciated...Quote:
Originally Posted by gldgti
OK, so the other thing is that even if this case, they will not necessarily open at the same temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubbs76
I often will test a t-stat in a pot of boiling water on the stove - I have tested several 87's at a time and seen them open at different temps (old vs new) so this can also have an effect.
Just FYI :-)
Cheers for that, much appreciated. I dont think it is the issue though. seems to open same time, fan coming on same time. Im gonna drop it on weekend, flush out and re fill with the coolnt i was using. only way to determine. system has been bled and re bled, no leaks anywhere, new everyhting. The only thing i havemt changed is the expansion tank. Which Im gonna do anyway after xmas...Quote:
Originally Posted by gldgti
For the purpose of comparing the 2 coolants as you going to, you should use the same expansion bottle. Or just try a new expansion bottle with the coolant you have in now. You can also have a mechanical problem (cyl. head gasket, corrosion?)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubbs76
This is true. I just went and picked up a new bottle. I hope not the other (cylinder head, etc) but Im pretty confident it isnt. All started occuring once the swap of coolant took place. Could be the radiator however also unlikey as it is brand spanking new. Im also 150% confident has been bled correctly, etc.. when i do the swap, ill also pull radiator out again and flush Plus rest of cooling system. never had a problem with old expansion bottle either so why now?
just too coincidental all occured once g13 went in.
If you replaced a heap of cooling system parts at the same time as the G13 went in, the G13 wouldn't be on the top of my list as #1 suspect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubbs76
Also, what's to say the temp sender isn't the problem?
Don't change too many variables in one, go if you want to work this out.
Whenever I mess with a cooling system, I always run tap water for the first couple of trips. I don't see it doing any long term harm. This is to verify there's no leaks and prevent wasting coolant. I know it cheap but it pains me to chuck stuff out for no reason.
Once I am happy its all good to go, I'll drop out the water and refill with the appropriate amount of coolant.
Gavin
Me too!Quote:
Originally Posted by h100vw
I tend to differ. I pressure test the cooling system before changing the coolant. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by gldgti
Hey mate..to confirm, the whole cooling system has been changed over a period of about 6 months. First with t stat, t stat housing, etc... Silicone hoses came about 3 months ago. New aluminum radiator a few weeks ago. All was running smoothly until I flushed and went g13. Temp sender has been checked and all ok. T stat opening properly, no leaks, etc...fan coming on when should..driving around today in 40c.. Coolant temp wouldn't drop below 105c and oil temp through the roof at 110c. Didn't even have my air on....go figure
110 c isn't through the roof mate, not with 40degree ambient temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubbs76
Everything in the system is working harder, oil temps are up and the water system has to contend with that as well.
I really think you are chasing your tail here.
Gavin
Yes, agree, 40C+ days are hard on any car. the issue is im still getting higher temps overall even on cooler days. Just seems coincidental that has only statred occuring since G13. I was up at 5.30am this Morning, drained system, pull out radiator, all hoses, expansion tank, etc.. gave a good flush and re fitted with G13 again, bled etc... will run again for a few days and see what happens. temps are mid 20's today and will drive later.. if no good, ill re do again with my old brand of coolant.. if anyone interested, I shall post within the week of update and findings..
Tubbs - I cant see anywhere if you said you changed the water-pump?
Just thinking, if you have a plastic impeller water pump, maybe the coolant change had an effect and caused it to fail (lower viscosity (i.e "thicker" fluid) requiring more torque to spin the impeller maybe?)
I recently fixed up a mk4 for my sister - when we bought it it was overheating - temps going up to about 115ish just doing not much, which I (fortunately) correctly guessed was a failed plastic water pump.
I dont know of any first hand accounts, but I'm sure I've read somewhere about coolant types having some effect on the longevity or otherwise of plastic water pump impellers and their shaft matings.
Just a thought.
PS - the kind of failures of plastic pumps I've seen before, include the impeller just coming loose on the shaft so that it will turn, but not as fast as it should.
Hi Tubbs,
hope you sort out your issue with the higher temps. I am interested with regards to your feedback. It would be of concern to all of us if it was a bad batch or problem with the G13. As I mentioned in my previous post, I have run G13 without issues. I did get slightly higher temps (just over 90 indicated in stop/go traffic, aircon on) when we were experiencing those 40+ days but returned to normal operating temps when it dropped below that.
Have a good Christmas and New Year.
Hi Fred,
Cheers for that. Will def keep you posted. I have spoken with some others who have also mentioned higher temps in booth coolant and oil since g13. WishiI was getting just over 90 with air con on. I was getting 100-110 without air con. Could only imagine the results if I ran it.
Chat soon and merry Xmas to u Also.
Hey mate. The pump was changed about a year ago. The pump I replaced with also has a metal impeller. Doing timing chains in about 3 months so when motor out, planning on replacing again with all other usual bits. Prob no need seeing as not that old but seeing as motor will be out...may as well do it. Also have a new electric pump to replace current one as well. Not saying couldn't be an issue, stranger things have happened......
I've experienced a similar thing in my MK2 (running a 2.0L 8v, yes I know its... different).
Oil temps NEVER went above 96 then all of a sudden, I started getting oil temps around 110 steady.
Replaced EVERY component in the cooling system, still sits steady at 104-110.
Variables that I imagine could effect temp would be,
-Coolant and mixture ratio
-Engine oil
-Temp sensors
-Electrical connections (earths)
-Differences in tolerances in parts (like GLDGTI said)
-Possessed Volkswagen's
Very true..thinking about it, oil needs a change. Running 0/50 at moment. Before doing so, I'll assess temps again over next week and then make an "executive decision" to dump and go back to old...ratio of coolant/ water is currently 40/60.
You shouldn't really go over 50% of the coolant concentrate in any engine, that's for sure. But, I think that the problem is on your side (engine just too old, or the ratio is incorrect) not within the G13 coolant.
I know that you came to the conclusion that the G13 is at fault right from the start, but the faults in the cars aren't what we want them to be. :)
Correct. Too much coolant is not good for cooling. My coolant to water mixture is at 40% coolant. Drove around yesterday and today in these cooler days and still higher in both water and oil temp. I cracked it....let car cool down and dumped g13. I flushed out system for over an hour and went back to my valvoline zerex g05 coolant, let fan fan run x4 to let system bleed properly and then took for a good drive....low and behold, average oil temp between 94c-96c again. Went for a run on the highway and hit 100c tops. Coolant temp with constant drive and airflow between 80c - 84c.
For some reason unbeknownst to me, g13 just doesn't agree with my ride. Not saying it won't be great in others, but have come to the conclusion not in mine. Based on my experience with it, I personally wouldn't recommend it. Merry Xmas all and many thanks for the post, Much appreciated..