Dodgy locks - not broken, but a bit lazy

Hi all

After triumphantly fixing my boot lock this morning, I'm on to the next quality of life fix before I start spending money.

My remote central locking does work, but takes a few tries. This appears to be on all the doors, but particularly the driver's door. Sometimes it will take two or three goes to get them all to lock.

I know the mechanisms are working because I can see them all jump down, but it seems to me like they might be gummed up a bit because they'll usually only go halfway down and then give up and go back up. After a couple of tries they'll stay down and they'll lock the doors. The same goes for unlocking - sometimes they'll only go halfway up.

Has anyone had this issue before, and is the problem as simple as I hope? (Maybe just some cleaning/grease on the locks inside?

Cheers

I have found that if there is enough resistance on the locking pins they don't actuate and allow for the mechanism to properly lock. Take the door card off and check if the pin has anything obstructing it. I've seen a worn out rubber grommet that stopped my door locking, replaced that and it's fixed.
Bit of lube doesn't hurt :P

You can also change the Central Convenience code from 00016 to 00017 with VCDS and when you press to unlock it opens all doors. The trunk button is anyway pretty useless.

I’ve wanted that code for yonks! Doing it now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JTop

I have found that if there is enough resistance on the locking pins they don't actuate and allow for the mechanism to properly lock. Take the door card off and check if the pin has anything obstructing it. I've seen a worn out rubber grommet that stopped my door locking, replaced that and it's fixed.
Bit of lube doesn't hurt :P

You can also change the Central Convenience code from 00016 to 00017 with VCDS and when you press to unlock it opens all doors. The trunk button is anyway pretty useless.

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Thanks mate. Had a go this morning and took of the door card, and the grommet was a bit gummed up so gave it a bit of silicon spray. It hasn't seemed to help so i took the grommet off altogether and still no luck.

I can see that there's another layer of the door (the metal plate covering most of the door internals) and assume I'd have to pull that off to get to the rest of it. Maybe it's gummed up at the lock motor, but I'm not looking forward to this job.

Cheers for the advice. Out of curiosity, I've got no idea how to change that code you mentioned. Is it an OBD thing or can I change it through the radio?

Thanks

No worries at all

The next layer is the window mechanism. If you pull that sheet off, you have to be careful because the glass it attached to it. There is a method to undo the glass, pull it out and take that whole module off.

I just peel it forward to get my hand in, and then the fun begins because there are a few things that connect and make it difficult to remove the lock. There is a plastic bracket that adjoins to the window sheet. you'd see the two white plastic bits poking out next to each other there. The two spline bolts on the side hold it on, and the combo of the electrical connector and the mechanical hook that allows you to open the door from the inside. undo all those and it should fall out the bottom.

And for the coding, yeah you need to have a OBD cable or bluetooth dongle, and you can alter the Central convenience code to change the locking style for the car.

I changed the code using VCDS and worked a treat. Now all doors and boot open with one click on the remote. You dont happen to know the instruments module coding to erase the oil level/temp warning do you Jan.