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Thread: New to me 2010 Tiguan

  1. #21
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    New to me 2010 Tiguan

    Ok so I am hearing now quotes of up to $1700 New to me 2010 Tiguan. Sounds a lot. Has no one on this forum had this job done on a 2.0 TSI? Iím under the impression the engine will self destruct before 200kkms without doing it.


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    Last edited by Perthdisco; 10-05-2020 at 06:56 PM.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Perthdisco View Post
    Any recommendations for what full 2.0 TSI timing chain + tensioner + guides replacement costs and a WA VW independent repairer?
    When I had my Mk6 GTI (same engine as your Tiguan) I had the chain guides, timing chain tensioner and timing chain cover & bolts replaced and it cost me just under $1k (i believe it was $960). But add another $300-400 for the timing chain to be replaced at the same time (I wish I had changed the chain on mine, but was told at the time it was not necessary).

    Also be prepared that while doing this work they may break the (plastic) dipstick tube which gets hard and brittle over the years. This happened on my car and cost me a further $280 to be fixed. The dipstick tube is in the same area where they are working so its possible it will be damaged.

    As for Perth VW mechanics perth vw mechanic - Google Search
    Last edited by Lucas_R; 11-05-2020 at 11:14 AM.
    2015 Mk7 GTI Performance
    2015 Audi SQ5 bi-turbo V6 TDI family hauler

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Perthdisco View Post
    Ok so I am hearing now quotes of up to $1700 New to me 2010 Tiguan. Sounds a lot. Has no one on this forum had this job done on a 2.0 TSI? I’m under the impression the engine will self destruct before 200kkms without doing it.
    The engine can self destruct at any time, regardless of km's. It just happens and there are plenty of stories on here of it happening to cars with very low km's on them (my car had 63,000km on it when i had them replaced as preventative maintenance, but I had a very loud rattle on startup which had me worried). Also, it may never happen - you could drive your car for 15 years and 300,000km and may never have an issue. It's a different situation for everyone.

    Personally I changed mine for piece of mind, as the money I spent was far less than what it would have cost me to replace the engine if/when it failed completely. Plus the inconvenience of not having your car for several weeks while the new engine is sourced and fitted.
    2015 Mk7 GTI Performance
    2015 Audi SQ5 bi-turbo V6 TDI family hauler

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucas_R View Post
    The engine can self destruct at any time, regardless of km's. It just happens and there are plenty of stories on here of it happening to cars with very low km's on them (my car had 63,000km on it when i had them replaced as preventative maintenance, but I had a very loud rattle on startup which had me worried). Also, it may never happen - you could drive your car for 15 years and 300,000km and may never have an issue. It's a different situation for everyone.

    Personally I changed mine for piece of mind, as the money I spent was far less than what it would have cost me to replace the engine if/when it failed completely. Plus the inconvenience of not having your car for several weeks while the new engine is sourced and fitted.
    Thanks, Iím trying to establish what the fair cost is if you can share.


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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Perthdisco View Post

    Now to the ATF change. This also looks like a feasible DIY. Ryco do a seal and filter kit. Need adapter for refill and Blauparts do a great instructional video.

    My question is on ATF fluid. Assuming using aftermarket will create a mix of fluid as probably 40% retained in the TC. So, either use original VW or do a first full drop and filter change with aftermarket ATF and then a second drop and fill only to achieve a high % of new oil.

    Any thoughts and ATF recommendations or experience?
    Hope I am not to late on this but have just read it. I have a manual but have had experience with a previous owned auto T4 van.
    On that model you should always stick to genuine oil or you will have problems. According to an Adelaide specialist, the only time you could consider a change is if the trans. was dismantled & all the old oil was completely removed.
    Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
    2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
    Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Perthdisco View Post
    Thanks, I’m trying to establish what the fair cost is if you can share.
    See my previous post New to me 2010 Tiguan
    2015 Mk7 GTI Performance
    2015 Audi SQ5 bi-turbo V6 TDI family hauler

  7. #27
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    New to me 2010 Tiguan

    Quote Originally Posted by jets View Post
    Hope I am not to late on this but have just read it. I have a manual but have had experience with a previous owned auto T4 van.
    On that model you should always stick to genuine oil or you will have problems. According to an Adelaide specialist, the only time you could consider a change is if the trans. was dismantled & all the old oil was completely removed.
    So my research has shown me that VW want $55 per litre New to me 2010 TiguanNew to me 2010 TiguanNew to me 2010 Tiguan for the G-055-025-A2 oil but the gearbox is an Aisin made used extensively by Toyota. The Aisin equal oil spec is Type IV (T-IV) which Toyota sell for $55 for 5 litres. That will be close as possible to original oil overlooking the possible higher spec Mobil or Penrite equivalents.

    With regard to Ďspecialistí advice that is the exact manufacturer problem. Is the gearbox Ďsealed for lifeí until it blows up out of warranty or do you change the oil as preventative maintenance? With a torque converter you cannot physically remove all the oil by draining the sump, maybe 40% retained so you do the process twice in close proximity to achieve a higher percentage.

    Same problem on my sealed for life ZF gearbox in Discovery 3. At least though I have a sump plug to avoid pan removal but will do this on the Tiguan to really clean it out being the first time.

    Only a rebuild gives you 100% new oil but you are rebuilding it due to (avoidable) failure. The more blown up and rebuilt gearboxes at $4-6k the better for those guys.

    Iíll report back when done on what 155kkm ATF looks like and the outcome with freshened up oil.


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    Last edited by Perthdisco; 11-05-2020 at 12:52 PM.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucas_R View Post
    See my previous post New to me 2010 Tiguan
    Oh yes seen it, thank you


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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Perthdisco View Post

    With regard to ‘specialist’ advice that is the exact manufacturer problem. Is the gearbox ‘sealed for life’ until it blows up out of warranty or do you change the oil as preventative maintenance? With a torque converter you cannot physically remove all the oil by draining the sump, maybe 40% retained so you do the process twice in close proximity to achieve a higher percentage.
    Are you are confident that the Toyota oil is the same as the VW oil? That is the problem & only you can decide if the saving is worth the risk. In my opinion, the oil should be changed at regular intervals. On the T4 that was at around 40,000 miles (in the USA] & even more frequently if towing. The T4 has a strainer/filter that should be changed & a magnet that should also be cleaned & will give you some idea of how things are going by the amount of steel whiskers. I don't know if the Tiguan has these. The oil on the T4 could also be changed from memory by undoing the level tube.
    A friend of mine has a Mercedes Vito van that probably has a ZF box. He started having trouble & an oil change sorted that probably 2 years ago. Hope that helps.
    Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
    2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
    Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

  10. #30
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    New to me 2010 Tiguan

    Quote Originally Posted by jets View Post
    Are you are confident that the Toyota oil is the same as the VW oil? That is the problem & only you can decide if the saving is worth the risk. In my opinion, the oil should be changed at regular intervals. On the T4 that was at around 40,000 miles (in the USA] & even more frequently if towing. The T4 has a strainer/filter that should be changed & a magnet that should also be cleaned & will give you some idea of how things are going by the amount of steel whiskers. I don't know if the Tiguan has these. The oil on the T4 could also be changed from memory by undoing the level tube.
    A friend of mine has a Mercedes Vito van that probably has a ZF box. He started having trouble & an oil change sorted that probably 2 years ago. Hope that helps.
    Thanks yes the procedure of draining and filling is the same you describe.

    Hereís the Mobil 1 recommend oil with equivalents on basis VW definitely donít make their own oil.



    This is basically the Aisin 6 speed gearbox ATF specification.

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    Last edited by Perthdisco; 12-05-2020 at 09:46 AM.

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