My VR6T
I thought it was about time I shared some photos and info about my VR6T that I have been driving around Adelaide for almost 3 years.
I bought the car back in 2005 (or 2006 I can't remember) with about 185000kms. It needed the usual chains, clutch and suspension repairs. I got sick of it looking like a tractor so the first mod was to put in some B&G Coilovers and HD top strut mounts. This made we happy and content for hmmmm, about 5min.
Next was to address the 'power issue', so i took the plunge and bought a VF stg2 supercharger kit. This was a great kit that worked and felt amazing to drive, but after some issues regarding oil leaks from the internal seals of the S/C and several attempts to have it fixed to no avail. VF finally agreed to replace the unit under warranty. But it never made its way back onto the car.
The engine had started to blow smoke on over run, so it was time for a rebuild. Luckily I had a spare engine that I could rebuild while the still driving the car. While rebuilding I decided to go the whole hog, low comp 8.5:1 JE forged pistons, Crower rods, ARP mains and head studs, fully balanced crank, rods and pistons, 24v metal layer head gasket (brings it back to about 9:1), Ferrea 40mm intake and 36mm exhaust valves, ferrea titanium retainers and HD springs, ferrea triple groove collets, lightweight German INA hydraulic lifters(apparently some diesel version) and a set of Cat 263 cams.
Head also had a minor P&P to suit the larger valve seats, match port with both intake and exhaust manifolds. Intake and exhaust manifolds got a good ceramic coating(to try to reduce under bonnet heat).
Oh , and a new OE oil pump.
Now with the engine rebuilt the gearbox would need some attention, all new bearings, new synchro rings on 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and also a Peloquin torque biasing diff. Clutch specially made by Adelaide Clutch (now Australia Clutch or something) to hold 500wft/lb, 5 button ceramic clutch plate. Its a bit like a switch, but you get used to it.
As some of you may know there are not many turbo kits that fit nicely on a RHD VR6, and I don't personally like the ATP 12V manifolds. So that didn't leave many options, well one in my opinion. All the pipe work, exhaust manifold and intercooler would have to be custom made This work I was unable to do myself, so I got ASE (Auto Sport Engineering) to do all fabrication. Unfortunately in speaking the them recently they have stopped doing all custom work, bummer!
I decided to keep the stock cast exhaust manifolds and just have a 'Y' shaped manifold made to fit the GT3082R (like what EIP were doing years ago) into the screamingly large space behind the engine. 3 inch aluminium boost pipes into a custom FMIC running back to the stock intake manifold. 3.5inch K&N pod filter near the stock location. Turbosmart 38mm dual port blow off valve and a Tial 44mm? external wastegate.
3inch v-band downpipe ceramic coated aswell, into an optional 3inch high flow cat or 'test pipe', through a full custom 3inch system with a high flow muffler at the back and down turned tip, in an attempt to make it a little quieter.
Custom oil cooler, as there is not much room left in the front of the car.
An Autronic SM4 takes care of the engine, running Siemens 660cc injectors at only 3bar (flow tested at about 700cc@3bar). MSD ignition coil mod, using custom MSD leads and some special ignition modules.
Bosch inline 044 motorsport fuel pump, speed controlled by a special relay and the ECU. Ticks over below 3000rpm, and turns on full above 3000rpm.
I have also utilized a few other functions of the Autronic SM4, ie; Traction control, launch control, gear dependent boost level and also a max boost knob. Traction control is an absolute must, even with only 8psi in 1st and 2nd it would get to 3000rpm and just roast the tyres, 3rd was even a bit dicey. Even with the peloquin diff i can nail it around a corner and not under steer off the road, unlike with out traction control. Launch rpm is adjustable via a knob in the cabin, anywhere from 1000-6500rpm (normally set to about 3200).
I love driving it, handles great with the aide of a neuspeed 28mm adjustable rear swaybar. The B&G coilovers are a bit stiff and it can hop around a corner, but if you know how it handles its great.
Hawk pads (cant remember which version) front and rear to make it stop, ECS exact fit SS brake lines and a new brake master cylinder.
The body work is a bit rough and needs some attention, fading paint on the bonnet and a few dents from my dad and a tent pole
. Tinted windows(35%), re-wraped steering wheel, nice sound system (1000w single channel, 10inch sub, 600w 4-channel and PIONEER).
I don't have a lot of pics of the car, I'll take some more over the next few day as most of these pics are old.
I also have some 10mm spacers for the front and 15mm for the rear, not fitted yet.
Thanks
Rhys
1979 Mk1 Golf 2door (Under construction)
1994 Mk3 Golf VR6T, Autronic SM4, GT30r, Peloquin, 288mm Brakes, B&G coilovers
2000 Audi S4 Imola Wagon, Stage 3, J-fonz tune, F21's, ER SMIC, 034 DP's, JHM DTS, JHM Trio Short Shift, 350mm Brembo 6-pot, ABT coilovers, BBS CH, RNS-E, FBSW, Alpha 2.5 cat back
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks