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Thread: stephen8512's Candy White Golf R

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    478
    Thread Starter

    taking off this :



    and replacing it with this :




    Going to get colour matched candy white inserts so that it makes the piano black badge pop and give it that contrast so that the VW logo is visible...otherwise from afar, the rear of the boot will look like it has a black hole in the middle

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
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    Thread Starter
    So decided to do a little DIY on a Sunday. Nothing major.

    I had purchased the gloss piano black rear VW emblem for my bootlid and whilst I did like how it looked, I didnt like the fact that there was no contrast. Previously the chrome emblem would stand out with the black backing but now since the badge was black, it became impossible to see the VW badge from afar. It looked like there was a massive black hole in the middle of my bootlid.

    Previously, I had some nice hard plastic CF inserts which went in between the badges but since I had changed the badge, I decided to make the inserts candy white and colour matched to the rest of the car.

    First, I needed to get my paint. Since I wanted this to be colour matched, I needed the paint code of my Candy White, which is LB9A. I didn't want to get this "professionally painted" as it was such a small thing and not worth the trouble of going to a professional IMO.

    Enter V&G Auto Paint. I heard about these guys through a friend who bought some paint from them for some touch up work. It came out brilliantly considering he was an amateur and the paint matched perfectly on his OEM gunmetal Evo 8 MR, which is difficult as the paint contains mettalic/pearl/flakes whatever you call it. These guys can colour match your car and get you a rattle can of any paint as long as you have the paint code. After a 15 minute wait and 35 bucks later, I got my candy white in a rattle can.



    I also bought some more inserts on ebay as my current CF ones were going to be ruined once I took them off. I found some which were pre-cut but they only came in silver. Didn't matter. I bought 2 just in case I stuffed one up. Here's a not-so-great picture of the pre-cut inserts. I was trying to show the silver...



    So all that was needed now was to paint. Method I used was

    1) Spray 2 coats of primer and let it rest overnight.

    2) Sand using 800 grit sandpaper and then finally with 1500 grit

    3) Spray 3 light coats of the candy white paint allowing a 10 minute break between each coat.

    4) Spray 1 medium coat and allow it to dry/rest for 24-48 hours





    5) Spray 3-4 coats of clear with 1 medium coat and let it dry for 24-48 hours

    6) Carefully cut around the inserts using a box cutter and remove the residual paint. It should just come off




    7) Clean the rear emblem and make sure that there is no residual dirt or anything where the inserts will be coming into contact with

    Carefully apply the inserts and enjoy


    Result. (Please excuse the crap iphone photo and dirty car. Its been **** weather lately in Sydney with sunshine one day and pissing down the next)






    Contrast is back and looks a lot better. Candy White is colour matched perfectly too which I'm very happy with and I think the end result came out quite well

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    478
    Thread Starter


    pictured

    - SuperPro Lower Control Arms + Ball Joints
    - KW V3 Ultralows Coilover
    - Neuspeed Charge + Discharge pipes
    - Hawk Ceramics F+R brake pads


    not pictured

    * DEFI Advance BF Oil Pressure + EGT
    * OSIR GT6-S CF spoiler (will be colour matched candy white)
    * OSIR O-Pod Dual gauge holder
    * Eurojet FMIC
    * Forge DV





    + hopefully getting this painted and colour matched. As much as I like CF, the wing doesnt work with the whole car if left as is IMO



    gave the car a good clean + polish + TLC after 6 weeks of being too busy to do anything

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    478
    Thread Starter
    cars back, new goodies on.

    KW V3 "ultralows". They really do mean ULTRA low....







    Pic with coilovers on, with height adjustment on highest setting. Shot this at a slight upward angle








    I think front can come lower just a tad....1cm or so?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    478
    Thread Starter
    Got my OSIR spoiler back from the panel shop. Greg at Baileys smash repair did a fantastic job. THe spoiler was initially CF and yes, it's a shame that the CF had to be painted but the CF didn't go with the look of the car IMO. Ideally I would have preferred the fibreglass option as I was already going to paint it. First world problems....

    Anyway, it looks great. All I need to do now is to attach it

    Pics of what it looked like before



    Pic now



    did a trial fit today. Looks 10x better than when it was CF














    Also got Greg to paint my OSIR dual gauge holder, which was also in CF, in gloss black. It didn't make sense to leave that in CF (again, yes its a shame CF was painted over) because it didnt go with the rest of my gloss black interior bits





    it will be matching the rest of the trim now






    Greg also removed the Audi rings and the TFSI lettering on my TT-S engine cover. Again, fantastic job all round!

    Here's what it looked like before. Initially, I had the whole thing painted black, rings and letter included







    now it's been filled with bog, smoothed and sanded back and repainted gloss black. Probably be looking at putting either the "R" logo, VWR logo or just keep it clean with nothing on it






    Just some cosmetic enhancement updates for now...

    Next major mods which I am looking at

    - BBK's (most likely 6 pot brembos with slotted rotors, 355x32...depends if they clear my wheels though)
    - Wheels (SSR Professor SP1 19" Black face, polished lip, bolts either in gold or coated in gloss candy white)
    - Guards rolled and flared to accomodate
    - DSG Tune (either GIAC or HGP/HPA)
    - Haldex Gen 4 Controller
    - CF rear valence (OSIR) and CF front lip (Garage Vary)
    - Possibly changing to the Forge catch can instead...not 100% on this one yet (my current 42DD will be up for sale if it goes ahead)

    Apart from that, quite happy with where the car is at the moment...maybe just some minor details here and there which needs to be tended to but overall I'm happy so far with its progress.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    478
    Thread Starter
    Finally got some side on pics after the OSIR spoiler install

    BEFORE:



    AFTER:





    excuse the ****house pics...







    "R" rear badge logo also removed since taking this photo. Rear is now clean

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    478
    Thread Starter
    some happy snaps after work today. Wanted to test out my phones camera (nexus 4)















    pretty happy I dont have a lip right about now....seeing how low it is already

    Front will be coming down a tad more, maybe 1cm or so to make it look right with the rear


    AND SO FAR, NO SCRUBBING!!! Maybe its due to the OEM wheels? I know for sure if I were to put on any other wheel/tyre combo I will DEF need guards rolled and/or flared otherwise it will rub


    35,000km service coming up. Shall be installing just a few more goodies. Nothing major.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    478
    Thread Starter
    Got the car back from Exoticars. Missed driving the thing!



    Still need to re-install the audi TTS engine cover.


    A bit annoyed though as when I got the car back, the Reverse Camera decided to be a pain in the ass and not work. The camera would still actuate and the image will still appear on the RNS510 unit but it seems the camera wont protrude all the way out? This is all I see

    (I also posted it here : Problems with my Reverse Camera - Page 3


  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    478
    Thread Starter
    attempted to get a side shot and an angle shot of the car, which had the front lowered another 0.5cm or so. Sorry about the crap photography. Taken with my phone





    Not sure if you can really tell from those photos as the black wheels and tyres seem to blend in together to the arch...need to see it in person

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    478
    Thread Starter

    Gave the car a full wash and detail today. Vacuum, Snowfoam, clay, 2 bucket wash, polish, wax, re-nanolexed the windows and wheels, leather treatment. Took forever but finally, feels good to have a clean car again. Still need to detail it more. Perhaps I'll get Pierre's assistance? Hahaha

    Only thing I need to do is replace the pollen filter and give the air vents a good spraying of Glen20 to kill any bacterial buildup from the A/C. Will do this in the next few weeks or so.



    Also got the RVC issue sorted. I bought a replacement part quite cheap compared to retail (which I'm told costs something like $700.00 or something ridiculous from VW) and because I only needed the RVC camera and not the wiring that goes with it, I decided to give it a go myself and replace it.

    Taking off the boot trim wasn't an issue as I had to do this before when I removed my rear wiper and put the wiper delete. The VW boot latch/RVC is held on by 3 T20 torx bolts. AFter you undo them, it's just simply a matter of twist to unlock and then pull out. Very easy. Since my RVC came from factory, I didn't have to mess about with wiring and it was a straight replacement, plug and play.

    I decided to open up the old one to see what may have been causing the problem. It turns out that a plastic "latch" which is used to pop out the RVC had snapped off. The latch was hooked on to a metal piece which actuates and then protrudes the camera out, but being plastic, it's not unreasonable that it had snapped although I would have thought it would last longer than 2 years.


    Here's a photo of the metal thing which actuates when put in Reverse




    and heres the photo of the plastic latch which had broken. Photo with the camera fully out



    Photo of camera retracted




    Design flaw? Hmm, possibly, but these things happen I guess. I suppose I was just one of the unlucky ones.... Anyway, it's fixed and it all works again so I'm happy

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