Kid, I like your style.
Get in there, as there really is not too much that can go wrong from what I hear you talking about.
TDI love is a wonderful thing.
hi guys. first off, sorry- no piccies. the light was bad when i was doing it, and i managed to take one CRRRAP pic before the batteries died.
cleaned my side mount and piping yesterday. i hate the ring clips that VW use for their pipes- they are a pain in the ass, and i will soon be replacing them all with the tighten-by-twist-knob kind from the bunnings gardening/plumbing section.
so here's what i did:
1. because i have a polo, and it has a side mount intercooler, i removed the driver's side wheel fender arch, granting me access to the intercooler. with the hood popped, i removed the last two pipes leading into the inlet manifold post-intercooler. underneath the car [hot side] i removed the last two pipes leading into the intercooler. i sprayed a small amount of carburettor spray cleaner into the pipes, let them sit for a couple of seconds, then flushed out with hot soapy water until clean, followed by hot water.
>> i was surprised to find that there was only really a thin film of oil in the pipes. i wouldnt go so far as to call it ''sludge'' so much as ''collateral''. this is after 60,00kms, 30,000kms of which, have been on an aggressive tune [for my tiny turbo]. but given how easy it was to at least remove the piping post-intercooler, i think i will be giving the intercooler>turbo pipes a flush out every time i change the oil, from now on. the o-rings that vw use to connect the pipes/ hoses together, are a total bitch, so i will be shortly replacing them with the twisty-lever tightening kind from the plumbing/ irrigation section of bunnings.
2. intercooler cleaning: sprayed carby cleaner into the top most pipe when looking downwards, with a funnel leading into a bucket down the bottom. after a few seconds of spraying, a fair bit of sludge came out down the bottom. i continued spraying until the liquid coming out the bottom was no longer visibly dark/oily. flushed out with a bucket of hot soapy water, which produced SOME more black stuff, then flushed again with just hot water. in order to get any leftover water out of the end tank, i shoved a cloth in there- it was quite damp when i retrieved it.
3. looking into the intake manifold: after 60,000kms, with all the horror stories out there, i didnt really want to look into the intake as i figured i'd have a heart attack. i was pleasantly surprised- there was no sludge at all, merely a film of oil. no buildup to speak of in the intake mouth, and no obstruction whatsoever. there WAS a little bit of gunk on this little flappy thing about halfway into the intake, positioned above the main pipe thingy leading to the four pipe thingies that bolt on to the engine [excuse my intense technicality, folks], and whilst im not too concerned with the film of oil in the intake, i WOULD like to get that gunk off Mr. Flappy-Thing. dunno how im gonna do that- i was thinking about simply getting a cloth wrapped around a shish-kebab skewer and positioning it below the flappy thing but above the hole that leads to the four pipes that lead to the engine [in the manifold] but i dont know if that's just asking for trouble.
>>whaddya guys reckon- would my car blow up if i stick that shish kebab stick wrapped in cloth, into the manifold, to clean the gunk off the flappy thing? my concerns were a) is it dangerous for that flappy thing to be moved at all [would it mess with any alignment/timing mechanisms integrated into the turbo/manifold set up, and make my car explode?]?; and b) what if i were to stick shish kebab into there and managed to get some gunk off the flappy thing, but it dropped down into the intake... upon start up, would it spit those small fragments into the engine, and make it blow up? your thoughts here would be great
4. put it all back together, and turned the engine on. the article on tdiclub that i referred to, suggested that you should let the engine idle for around 15 minutes WITHOUT ONCE stepping on the accelerator, as you dont want the turbo forcing any residual moisture into the engine, but rather, simply letting the system heat up and evaporate that moisture as gently as possible. i let mine idle for two cans of soft drink and 3 cigarettes [im all about health], roughly about 40 minutes. took it for a drive, and nothing out of the ordinary occurred, so at least i didnt screw anything up or make anything explode. the whole job took a mechanical kook like me, with some torch-holding and tool-passing assistance from my kid sister, it took about 3 hours, but more importantly, it really inspired me to follow [to a minor degree] in the footsteps of you guys who are brave enough to start optimizing your tdis, and get your hands dirty for the greater good.
the amount of crap that came out of the intercooler was, i will admit, not as much as i was thinking would come out, but there was a 10L bucket of black crap [carby cleaner+soapy water] all the same, so im happy i decided to just get in there and do it!
couple of other things i learned:
>lol! my turbo is tiny! it's seriously around the size of a clenched fist. tiny! come turbo-go-boom time, it'll be hard not to just get a vnt17 to replace it [i like the idea of underpowered-but-ridiculously-superior-handling cars, thanks to initial-D].
>pipes. the ''large'' pipes in the system look fine, but what bugged me [and got me to actually read all of greg's ''let the tinkering begin'' thread] was the fact that the in-between pipes that will connect two ''large'' pipes, are really friggin small. it inspired me to get under the car and try to replace with silicon hose and metal pipework from the local autobarn- not the whole set up [yet], but at least these small-diameter pipes that just HAVE to be a restriction. the set up works fine, sure, but then why are [for example] peeps in the states so willing to replace the pancake ic pipe with bigger ones? it must do SOME good when flowing more air.
> ic placement. there isnt much room to play with in the tiny engine bay/ behind the bumper of the polo, but having seen the mounting tabs etc etc, im starting to toy with the idea of moving the intercooler to a more centralized position in the big scheme of things [e.g. from the side, closer in towards the radiator, or even flipping things upside down, getting tabs welded on, mounting it on the front bar behind the main lower grill, and simply extending pipework a few cm's with the kind of pipes and silicon hose you can pick up from autobarns]. ARE ic's directional in flow? i.e. if i flipped it upside down and re-attached the pipes, would the car blow up?
so yeah. that's my write up. sorry that it was riddled with technical faux-pas' and that it read like i have no frigging clue what im talking about, but i kinda dont, im just inspired now to start getting my beautiful, vw hatch back driving, manicured hands, dirty.
one other thing: next on the cards FOR SURE is the removal of the MAF grid. at the moment, i cannot remove the grid as i simply have a BMC panel filter in the stock air box. but seeing as we're talking pipe work, would it be possible to retain the stock air box etc etc, but position the maf further down from the air box, and THEN cut the maf grid out? or is it more or less the same as having the maf in the stock position, and needs to be cured with a decent pot/ heat shield/ cylindrical shield set up?
at this stage, and in the very short term, im going to be replacing the smaller diameter pipes with larger metal ones, joined with silicon hose and clamps, and i really, really want to get rid of the maf grid and the trumpet air cone inside the airbox [post filter]. so yeah- maf repositioning- yay or nay?
if it's a nay, then off to bunnings i go, as im gonna fab up a heat shield cylinder, feeding it to the front grill, surrounding a K&N/BMC pod.
cheers guys!
scotty
Last edited by Buller_Scott; 24-05-2010 at 07:43 PM.
Kid, I like your style.
Get in there, as there really is not too much that can go wrong from what I hear you talking about.
TDI love is a wonderful thing.
Geezuz that's a post and a half!
Congrats, it's not as hard as it seems to tinker mate, welcome to the club.
Hate to say it but the 'sludge' problem occurs just above Mr flappy thing, where the Exhaust gas enters and mixes with that fine coating of oil you noticed in the intercooler pipes. From Mr Flappy up isn't going to be anywhere near as pretty. To be honest you can sprat, poke and stick anything you wnt up there, and it's going to do minimal at best. Worst case the car will redline on startup on any solvent you put in there, so it's not something I'd advise you or anyone to do. The only real way is to pull the flap, EGR mechanism and manifold off, and it's a pretty straight forward thing to do, so long as you have a good selection of tools, and especially torkx keys. But hey, good work cleaning out your IC, it's something I have yet to do, and will increase your IC capacity somewhat.
I'd personally be leaving the Maf where it is, it's designed to give it's volytage range over certain temps, and putting it closer to the engine will let it see possible higher temps, and possibly give inaccurate readings. The car will compensate for sure, but I'd suggest you look at other ways to straighten out the airflow from the airbox before pulling the grid, which to be honest does jack shyte on the bumometer, but it all indeed helps flow.
Finally anywhere you have small plumbing mid way in the intake tract is definate restriction, and Mr Flappy is the biggest restriction in the Golf intake at 1.9" with a shaft and a flap also involved, and I suspect it'd be the same in the Polo. Big deal to get rid of it though, still not sure exactly how I'm going to achieve that one!
You do need small plumbing out of the turbo though, more a funnel that a straight jump to full size if you get my meaning, and the stock Golf does this nicely.
Trumpets in airbox lids actually flow better than big hard angled junctions, so you may actually go backwards there just pulling it out. it's the bellmouth effect, and you can always make a bigger one, but even my apexi has an internal bellmouth which flows MUCH better than a pipe without one, even if it's bigger.
Welcome to the busted knuckles tinker club!
Last edited by Greg Roles; 25-05-2010 at 11:50 AM.
2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
hey gang, thanks for the comments!
mik, IMO i have no style- im just a pussy who's finally decided to hitch up my skirt and give the not-too-dangerous things, a go, lol.
of course! see what i mean- i AM a kook! i didnt put two and two together [where egr is and thus where sludge will actually be visible]. duh@ me, but i'll get there.
that's it. catch can time. just quit my crappy job a couple of weeks ago, so dont have much play money for a provent, but a decent looking jobbie from autobarns should do the trick!
thanks for the heads up re egr and where the sludge will occur, greg. now that i got SFA to do during the day, i think itsa gonna have to be a case of manifold removal and cleaning. fark it. for that one i WILL be taking piccies. it's the single most troublesome thing about the whole system to me.
regarding maf placement, i kinda thought that might be the case. grid removal might not be much for seat-of-the-pantsness, but i read in your ''begin'' thread that grid removal, coupled with better intake setup, resulted in the difference between driving with the air con off and on, when compared with the stock airbox?
it might only be a minor difference, but hell, i'll take it, yessireebob. gonna go take lots of pics of the engine bay, and study them.
looks like its back under the car for turbo-ic pipe inspection, too.
argh i'll end the stuff i have to do, there! so much to do! but for today, rather than go job hunting, i think that it might just be ic-intake pipe replacement time.
i will keep you guys updated on what i do, how i do it, and how i moisturise my hands and rejuvinate my nails, as i do things!
cheers![]()
On the topic of intercoolers and cleaning them, would some Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner (UEC) work well for this? Obviously post turbo/intercooler and pre TB/intake area?
With intercoolers, has anyone upgraded theirs to an aftermarket/petrol type unit? Would there be any benefits over the standard unit? Eg more air flow/bigger surface area etc.? Greg Roles?
Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
If anything diesels often have better IC than petrol, as they are on boost more often, but in the Golf's they are all the same. The only possuble upgrade is to the metal end tanked Audi S3, or to an aftermarket one, but unless you're doing track days or something equally serious, I wouldn't bother. The stock IC unit in the golf's is amazing for normal traffic fanging, far better than I had imagined before testing it extensively.
I assume the stuff you are talking about is like carbie cleaner and not a fuel additive??
If not, adding stuff to the fuel is a bit of a waste of time in a direct injection engine, it enters the cylinder, not the inlet tract which is where it is really needed. You can inject cleaner etc into the inlet, but remember a diesel is throttled by FUEL, and well, anything volatile enough to remove sludge is going to make great fuel for a diesel and it's baically like standing on the throttle.
The flush the dealers and others can do is the way to go for the regular folk, as they put an air restrictor on the inlet to prevent the engine running away whilst spraying in the cleaner. VERY BAD idea for DPF types, that sludge just turns to ash, and well, it is unburnable ash that eventually clogs that mega expensive DPF.
Last edited by Greg Roles; 25-05-2010 at 07:01 PM.
2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
nice work mate.
word of advice - dont use normal hoseclamps unless you have a really good lip on the end of the hard piping for the clamp to ride up against. Its really, really easy to blow those unions apart. if your going to the fancy "t-bolt" hoseclamps, do not buy them from anywhere but pirtek, or you'll be seriously ripped off - AND, do not walk into pirtek in your sunday best, make sure you go there looking dirty, or the dude at the counter will think your.... well, you can imagine.
'07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
'98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
'99 A4 Quattro 1.8T
hey gld, thanks for the tip!
with what i've seen at least in chain-store auto shops, im not happy with the minimal selection of piping options, at the prices that they are, to invest.
at this stage, i think my priority [after new brakes, tires, and 60,000km major service], it's going to be the optimization of the intake for sure- i want straight through flow, and i want to get rid of that maf grid.
cheers for the heads up r.e. clamps- i'll leave them for now!
good work big fella.
Next mod on the cards for me is an Allard EGR delete pipe. Want to do a grab one at the same time? When I do that, the intake manifold is coming off and getting a good cleaning, might even plumb up my FMIC at the same time.
VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life
There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
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