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Thread: EGR should we all be more concerned

  1. #11
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    and just so you know it's not happening because VW is slack, check out the very complex oil seperation in your tappet cover, stock! Hate to think how much would go through without this!

    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Michelin 4s | Golf R subframe | Superpro sway and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes.

  2. #12
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    And while we are on the subject, I found the following alarming piece of information hidden away in my 2.0L common rail self study program last week:

    "A small amount of engine oil is always burnt while the engine is running. Some of the burnt engine oil collects in the DPF in the form of ash. This ash cannot be decomposed during active regeneration.
    To ensure efficient functioning of the DPF, the limit value for the ash mass needs to be checked during service. The DPF should be replaced when this limit value is exceeded."

    Basically, once you burn enough oil to "fill" the DPF with ash, you're up for a new one. Lucky a honeycomb of ceramic Silicon Carbide, coated with aluminium oxide, cerium oxide and Platinum comes cheap....

    If you aren't considering a Provent for the sludge issue, do it for the longevity of your no doubt expensive DPF lifespan! Oh and use LOW ash oils in DPF cars!!!!
    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Michelin 4s | Golf R subframe | Superpro sway and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cogdoc View Post
    And while we are on the subject, I found the following alarming piece of information hidden away in my 2.0L common rail self study program last week:

    "A small amount of engine oil is always burnt while the engine is running. Some of the burnt engine oil collects in the DPF in the form of ash. This ash cannot be decomposed during active regeneration.
    To ensure efficient functioning of the DPF, the limit value for the ash mass needs to be checked during service. The DPF should be replaced when this limit value is exceeded."

    Basically, once you burn enough oil to "fill" the DPF with ash, you're up for a new one. Lucky a honeycomb of ceramic Silicon Carbide, coated with aluminium oxide, cerium oxide and Platinum comes cheap....

    If you aren't considering a Provent for the sludge issue, do it for the longevity of your no doubt expensive DPF lifespan! Oh and use LOW ash oils in DPF cars!!!!
    I contacted mann-humme people for Provent, they are 200m away from my office, will see if they can offer something.
    2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cogdoc View Post
    My Provent has a lower hose to collect the condensed oil it catches, and it fills with a decent 100mL-200mL amount every 5000km roughly. The return line has oil film in it, and there is obviously still *some* going through the inlet. Basically I've dramatically reduced it, not eliminated it. The T5 is a different engine, so I'd expect different oil blow by. Still, I'm amazed you have absolutely no oil film!

    Perhaps I could use the now unecessary water intercooler parts I collected to water cool my provent to try and catch more oil!

    It's a big concern for the diesel engine for sure.
    The Provent has adjustment on it. Look in the Provents instructions if you didn't try it already; maybe you just need to adjust it a bit. I've had so much oil going through the intercooler hoses on that T5 that the oil was dripping out of the joints where the hoses connect to metal pipes for the intercooler (they use O-rings and the clips instead just clamp over the hose).
    I installed the Provent at 3,000km.

  5. #15
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    Cool, will do. All I noticed was a relief valve, is that the adjustable bit?
    I'll fish out the paperwork tonight.
    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Michelin 4s | Golf R subframe | Superpro sway and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiTorque View Post
    I managed to get into EGR valve and EGR motor flap section and nearly had heart attack when I saw amount of black sht inside. The car was regularly serviced and clocked 65K in 4years. I cleaned it, but motor was damaged already so the car is back to the dealer.. it must have a catch can otherwise this will happen again. The deposits were 3-4 mm thick and some could only be removed with metal brush. I am considering fixing it and getting the magic catch can or sell the car. It took 2 hours to remove all bolts as two of them were completely inaccessible.
    This is a worry after 65k's.

    Can you elaborate on the damage to the motor. What is the dealer saying.



    Thanks everyone for the info supplied.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil View Post
    This is a worry after 65k's.

    Can you elaborate on the damage to the motor. What is the dealer saying.



    Thanks everyone for the info supplied.
    I was talking about small EGR motor that rotates round plate below EGR valve. Also a big pipe that comes into that section has sludge all around - 2-3mm thick. Ideally it needs to be cleaned, but I can't get it off the car and it's not part of VW service. Even if I get EGR motor replaced ($850+3h labor) this is the problem that will come back unless I fit a catch can. Some ppl in UK blocked input into EGR motor section leaving only 4mm hole. I need to investigate more, but I do not feel good about $40K+ car that shts itself after 4 years.
    Last edited by HiTorque; 18-03-2009 at 01:39 PM. Reason: typo
    2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD

  8. #18
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    OK so the flap motor jams up, and it costs a ludicrous $850 to replace. EGR is my new focus now!

    Seeing as how the Provent seems to be the weapon of choice in combatting this, and having just reviewed the instructions, I'd love to have anyone that has worked out how to perfect the system, such as Transporter, elaborate on the adjustment, as it isn't adequately described, nor can I seem to turn the pressure reg on mine just now.

    Perhaps mine isn't working effectively, as my drain pipe is blocked and simply accumulates the condensed oil, rather than Transporter, who seems to have to draining back into the sump. Hmmm, my new item to tinker with....
    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Michelin 4s | Golf R subframe | Superpro sway and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by cogdoc View Post
    My Provent has a lower hose to collect the condensed oil it catches, and it fills with a decent 100mL-200mL amount every 5000km roughly. The return line has oil film in it, and there is obviously still *some* going through the inlet.
    Does your dipstick show a corresponding drop in engine oil level ?

    If it does, that may go some way to explaining why some TDIs seem to use a lot of oil, and others (like my 2.5 5 cyl) hardly use any at all.

    Maybe the high oil consumption TDI engines aren't "burning" a lot of oil at all (and therefore also clogging up their ultra-expensive DPFs), but are actually depositing a lot of oil (and exhaust soot) all through their intake tracts ?

    That would also explain why VW are fairly unfussed about engines "consuming" what I would consider to be hugely excessive amounts of oil (up to 1 litre per 1,000Km or some such nonsense). Still not a good state of affairs, but not as worrying as thinking your rings had that bad a seal that oil was almost dripping past them and being burnt.

    Hmmm, food for thought indeed.
    2017 MY18 Golf R 7.5 Wolfsburg wagon (boring white) delivered 21 Sep 2017, 2008 Octavia vRS wagon 2.0 TFSI 6M (bright yellow), 2006 T5 Transporter van 2.5 TDI 6M (gone but not forgotten).

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by cogdoc View Post
    OK so the flap motor jams up, and it costs a ludicrous $850 to replace. EGR is my new focus now!

    Seeing as how the Provent seems to be the weapon of choice in combatting this, and having just reviewed the instructions, I'd love to have anyone that has worked out how to perfect the system, such as Transporter, elaborate on the adjustment, as it isn't adequately described, nor can I seem to turn the pressure reg on mine just now.

    Perhaps mine isn't working effectively, as my drain pipe is blocked and simply accumulates the condensed oil, rather than Transporter, who seems to have to draining back into the sump. Hmmm, my new item to tinker with....
    I've done it almost 4 years ago, I'm sure that I turned the knob/cap on the side of the provent at least 1 turn in. You can't go wrong the provent has pressure release valve in the top cap. I also replaced cartridge filter inside once since then (it was completely saturated in the oil - have a lots of rags ready, if removing it). I connected the 1/2" PVC hose about 1m long to the oil return port I bent the other end of the PVC hose and secured it up where I can check/drain it as needed.
    Greg turn the valve one turn in, clean the hose from the provent to the inlet duct and check it in about 200-500 km. That’s how I would adjust it.

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