Page 8 of 8 FirstFirst ... 678
Results 71 to 73 of 73

Thread: 118TSI Forged Piston Engine Rebuild

  1. #71
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Erskineville, NSW
    Posts
    7,529
    Users Country Flag

    Quote Originally Posted by RMayzu View Post

    does anyone know which is correct ?
    Do it as per the ring / piston manufacturers instructions. The .006 seems a fraction big and usually ring 2 is a fraction bigger than ring 1.

    Have you enquired direct to manufacturer and explained your usage as they may assume a turbo is being driven hard.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  2. #72
    Has anyone else moved forward on these 1.4 rebuilds?

    I have a 2012 Jetta which throw some fault codes and has 125psi on cylinder 4. Cylinders 1,2,3 are sitting on 142psi.

    Cleared all codes with obdeleven and seems to run and idle ok.

    Noted I have not taken it 3000 rpm since.

    I have been looking at performing a stage 2 tune and think the time is now. I am pricing up some wiseco and cp pistons.

    Does anyone know if these can rebuilt in chassis or does the engine need to be removed.


    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    281

    I ended up just getting a used, later year long block, didn't rebuild. I don't own the car anymore but I know it's been going strong for 3-4 years on the APR stage 2 tune since then.

    The engine had to come out for that but you'll want to do that anyway. If you truly love the car and want to keep it for a long time then by all means build the engine but you'll be making an investment that could be putting you in a GTI or R etc. If I were going down the rebuild route i'd suggest the following:

    The Engine
    If you're rebuilding the bottom end I'd suggest getting a second block from a wrecker or someone who had a blown engine. This means you can still drive your car in the mean time. Get the block, strip it, have the block checked for gouges/scrapes, get the block honed if required. Get an engine builder to blueprint the whole thing so the bore and piston in each cylinder match perfectly.

    Induction
    If you're going to all that trouble you can rebuild your turbo while you're at it. Get the manifold/turbo hotside ported and polished to match the gaskets and ceramic coated. This might help you with turbo spool and give you a little more flow up high and it doesn't cost all that much. The stock IC gets heat soaked quickly so you want to get a Golf R one if you don't have that already.

    Exhaust
    Try and get a downpipe that doesn't have a cat or get an exhaust fabricated to move the cat further down so the exhaust can be wrapped or ceramic coated or both. There's some fluid lines that run close to the downpipe so you want to wrap those in insulation reflective tape or similar so you don't melt them.


    Tune
    I had the APR stage 2 tune and I found I had to constantly keep resetting the map selection every drive as the ECU would go into a bit of a soft limp mode otherwise. Sometimes it would just go soft mid drive. I'd stay clear of off the shelf maps if i did it again and get it properly dyno tuned. Costs roughly the same and means a tuner is purely focused on your car and how it copes with the process.

    Good luck with it! I've got a WRX as a fun car now and i really miss that supercharger insta spool at 1,500 RPM!

Page 8 of 8 FirstFirst ... 678

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
| |