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Agree with above 3M film is the best investment you can make on your new R, stops chips on bumper bonnet and front of guards, add to that a JB1.
Swiss VW buyers are getting an ABT based special edition Golf R360S with 265kW 460Nm see if VGA can get this for the next 'Wolfsburg'. Advantage over stage 1 will be the factory cover.
VW Golf R360S-Sondermodell: 360 PS nur für die Schweiz - AUTO MOTOR UND SPORT
I'd prefer a Wolfsburg or ABT badge over the strips.
Yeah, thinking about the JB1, particularly after I saw that article.Quote:
Originally Posted by rosslm
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Switzerland is getting a special edition R enhanced by tuner ABT good for 360PS 165 hatches and 55 wagons similar to the Wolfsburg R release in Australia. Maybe VGA could look at this for the next special edition.
VW Golf R360S-Sondermodell: 360 PS nur für die Schweiz - AUTO MOTOR UND SPORT
Just ordered my brand new Golf R in White DSG :)
What's the consensus on break-in these days?
Congrats!Quote:
Originally Posted by joshcrd
There are a two schools of thought on the break-in issue. There are some very knowledgeable people (who know lots about these things!), who say that you should NOT break it in slowly. Give it beans out of the dealership!
Here's a page which goes into detail: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Anecdotally, vehicles which aren't traditionally broken in tend to make more power. Take that with a grain of salt, but there is some potential truth to this depending on who you listen to.
The other side of the fence says to take it easy for 1000km - this is supported by the VW User Manual I believe.
Personally, I went somewhere in the middle. I gave it full boost on occasion for the first 1000km, and avoided bouncing off the limiter, launch control or any modifications until about 1,500km. By 2,000km my car had a tune, downpipe, intercooler etc etc. No issues so far, and the car goes like hell.
Enjoy your new car mate! :)
Thanks mate!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Primordial
I think I'm leaning towards what you have been doing.... I probably wouldn't even notice the difference either way
I used the full rev range across the first 1000km but avoided heavy loads on the clutch or engine (launches or high gear full acceleration, not labouring on hills) or going much past 6000rpm.Quote:
Originally Posted by joshcrd
It's probably more important to give the brakes time to bed in and avoid intentional hard stops for the first few hundred km (I think I was mindful of this for about 500km).
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Current thinking is to vary the revs as others have said but to ensure you give some short bursts of high revs plus some throttle off coasting immediately afterwards. This allows the rings to expend and contract and bed properly into the bore.
It's how dyno tuners do it. First couple of hundred km's critical. Don't let it sit idling too long. This is most important as bore will glaze and only a hone will fix it. It will also use oil like a b@stard...
Good choice of vehicle 😄 enjoy!
Thanks guys :)
I know most of you would be running 98, but what is the official recommendation on the inside of the fuel flap?
The reason I ask is I have the car on a car allowance through work and will be getting a fuel card. I don't think companies restrict the fuel type these days with more and more cars recommending premium but I have heard of some that do. I just need to let them know so when they apply for my fuel card they don't restrict it to 91.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...dcf40d9b-1.jpg
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