You can Code / Adapt via OBDeleven. You should code it as "FLEECE" and just enter the serial number of the Battery.
Hi,
3years and 11 months the original battery decided enough was enough. With the car not running it was registering only 9.5V.
So I've replaced it with a Century AGM. I've not 'programmed' the battery as my ODBEleven account doesn't have rights to do that so I'll have to sort it out later.
I've run the car and cleared all the faults.
What I'm seeing, however, is that with the car running ODBEleven is only reporting 12V. Even with the dying battery last night, after a jump start, it was reading 14.4V
Concerning? or needs a drive for the ECU to work itself out
thanks
You can Code / Adapt via OBDeleven. You should code it as "FLEECE" and just enter the serial number of the Battery.
MY18 VW Passat Alltrack Wolfsburg Edition + Panoramic Sunroof + some extra goodies... (Pure White)
MY17 ŠKODA Superb 206TSI 4x4 + Sunroof + Tech Pack + Comfort Pack + some extra goodies... (Moon White)
Yea I don’t have pro license. So it doesn’t let me.
MY18 VW Passat Alltrack Wolfsburg Edition + Panoramic Sunroof + some extra goodies... (Pure White)
MY17 ŠKODA Superb 206TSI 4x4 + Sunroof + Tech Pack + Comfort Pack + some extra goodies... (Moon White)
thanks... sadly in Sydney. but super nice of you to offer
Logical thing to do is either buy a pro licence or ask in the CODING forum for someone near to you to help for a few beers.
Or take it to a car sparky and get it LOAD TESTED which is the proper way to test a battery even a new one
Last thing to do is make your location a bit more precise than "Australia". Bit stupid if you want local help and someone from Broome answers. Get the point?????
Last edited by Hillbilly; 22-03-2024 at 10:35 PM.
2021 Kamiq LE 110 , Moon White, BV cameras F & B
Mamba Ebike to replace Tiguan
Perhaps you need to extend your skill set to scroll up and parse the original query.
1. I'm aware my ODBEleven account is lacking the appropriate level of access and that I'll have to sort that out later (second paragrah)
2. My query was - is it a concern that I'm only seeing 12.5V with the car running and not the usual 14.4V. I mentioned my lack of being able to recode the battery as I way to provide information and a possible response from the more learnered folks on this forum with a possible "Yea.. I saw that too until it was recoded" or something akin to that.
3. There is no implicit or explicit request for anyone to help me to recode the ECU for the new battery
4. Puntuation needs not to be repeated.
Get the point?
2021 Kamiq LE 110 , Moon White, BV cameras F & B
Mamba Ebike to replace Tiguan
Hey mate - please don't take offence - hillbilly is well known around this forum for being cranky and rude to people. I'm not sure why the mods tolerate it, but it is what it is.
With regard to your new battery - where did you buy it from? Did the retailer offer to code it for you? Many battery specialists will do the coding for free with a battery purchase.
I know with my OBD11 when monitoring "live data" the voltage is not constant - it will go up and down in a range between 12ish and 14 point something.
Although coding the new battery details into the vehicle is the correct process, there are many people out there who don't follow correct process.
Cheers
If your battery was fully charged when you fitted it then 12.5V might be just the BMS doing it's thing (leaving some room for charging on the over-run). If it moves to 13.3V after a short while driving than I wouldn't worry about it, that's what my R does after I have given the battery a charge to top it up. I hardly ever see 14.4V. These cars rarely fully charge the battery, which is why batteries no longer last as long as they used to in older cars.
2017 MY18 Golf R 7.5 Wolfsburg wagon (boring white) delivered 21 Sep 2017, 2008 Octavia vRS wagon 2.0 TFSI 6M (bright yellow), 2006 T5 Transporter van 2.5 TDI 6M (gone but not forgotten).
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