Support VWWC

Page 1 of 6 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 54

Thread: Fitting tow bar and wiring to a Yeti with tow prep.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Darwin, NT
    Posts
    157
    Users Country Flag

    Fitting tow bar and wiring to a Yeti with tow prep.

    Ok, so here’s the deal. I’ve red all sorts of thing on the net about Yeti Tow bars and wiring them. Most people in the UK seem to get the dealer to fit it because their dealers charge reasonable fee. Here in Australia however, dealers seem to think they have sold us an Audi and charge accordingly. My quote was $1700. So I decided to fit mine myself as I’m reasonably handy at these kinds of thing.

    I have to say with all I’d red, the task seemed quite daunting Turns out that once I had the right information and parts, it couldn’t have been easier.

    My first issue was getting the right parts. I ordered everything from PF Jones in the UK. PF Jones have been fantastic to deal with and it was with their help I managed to sort out the only problem I had.

    These are the initial parts I ordered. The wiring kit is wrong as it’s for a Yeti without “Tow Prep”. There are a couple of different types of detachable tow bars. I went with the Witter Flange type but I believe the Westfalia or Witter standard type would be equally as good.

    NOT FOR TOW PREP Superb Yeti 7 Pin Dedicated Wiring Kit 2009 on 19220508RC

    Skoda Yeti 2009 on Detachable Flange tow bar

    3.5t 1" Jaw, Pin & Ball

    Stainless Steel Bumper Protector

    I have never heard of a Australian delivered Yeti not having “Tow Prep”. Amongst other things, “Tow Prep” provides a connector in the back of the vehicle for the trailer wiring harness to connect to.

    I was aware the connector for the tow wiring was behind the plastic panel on the left hand side of the vehicle. I had received everything from PF Jones prior to my Yeti being delivered but once I had my Yeti and the panel off I could not work out how the PF Jones wiring harness connected so I called them. Their tech department was great and quickly worked out the kit was for a vehicle without “Tow Prep” they couldn’t provide me with the correct wiring kit but were happy for me to send the kit back for a refund.

    I called around a couple of dealers here in Australia for the genuine Skoda part “EEA 630 002 E4”. I was quoted $730 from Canberra and $530 from Nowra. My Yeti was in pieces and I didn’t want to put it back together to have to pull it apart again so I wanted to get the wiring kit ASAP. With some help from a member from Briskoda Forum, I was put in contact with a dealer in the UK. Royal Mail freight for 5 days deliver and 1kg was only 22 pound. The price from the UK with freight ended up being $265. Take that Australian Dealers.

    So this is what arrived: (Sorry about rubbish photo)


    With this control Unit:


    Here is where the control unit gets fitted.


    Yep Here:


    The kit comes with these plugs and screws:


    And they get fitted here:


    Like this:


    Then this red plug:


    Found here:


    Goes into the control unit like this:


    And this plug from the harness goes into the other socket on the control unit:


    Then the control unit goes here:


    And the screws go in. The control unit has a slot in one end and a hole in the other so you can put the first screw in and then just slot the control unit behind the screw and tighten it after the second screw is in:


    Take the earth wire and put it under this bolt:


    Like this:


    Then take these cable ties (supplied in the kit):


    and push them over the panel seem. Here:


    Ok from here on is how to reassemble the panels. You can just reverse for the removal procedure. I was too busy being careful not to break the clips when I was dismantling. Turned out I didn’t need to worry. This clips are well designed and never looked like breaking. There are some tricks though to pull the panels in the right directions.

    The main big panel has a clip here:, Just be sure to get the edge of the panel under the carpet.


    2 screws here:



    2 here:

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Darwin, NT
    Posts
    157
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    And one here:


    And they are all here:


    The hook rail has 3 screws:


    Which are under this plastic strip:, I carefully lifted one end with a knife.


    “C” Pillar cover has one screw at the top: There is no airbag under the little cover that says airbag. The airbag is under the roof lining.


    The “C” Pillar cover slots in at the top and clips in at the bottom before the screw goes in:


    The rear center panel: Red clips go down before the yellow clips go in then 2 screws in the holes circled in blue.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Darwin, NT
    Posts
    157
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    I didn't take any photos with the bumper off or how the actual tow bar was fitted. It’s really simple though. The bumper comes off by removing these covers:



    Like this:


    And then you can remove these nuts:


    There are 4 plugs/clips under the bumper. 2 screws at the edges which join the bumper to the inner guard and that’s about it. The bumper is not much more than a cosmetic thing. There is nothing solid behind it, which is a good thing when someone bumps you in a car park. You might break a couple of clips but the plastic bumper should bounce back and since it’s not painted it shouldn’t show a scratch too bad.

    Once the bumper is off, there is a pressed metal bar that needs to be removed. There are 3 screws in one end and 4 in the other, if I remember correctly. It gets chucked out.

    The tow bar itself is very simple. There are 2 flat, vertical tongues that insert into the ends of the chassis. Then 2 bolts screw into the tongues from inside the wheel arches. There is a large square tube that runs across the back of the car with the socket for the tow hitch in the middle. All the bolts have torque settings so a Torque Wrench is needed to get the right tension on the bolts.
    Here is the socket visible with the cover off:


    And the cover on:

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Darwin, NT
    Posts
    157
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    I'll post some more tomorrow with the hitch in place and the socket screwed on.

    Happy Days.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Pacific Paradise QLD
    Posts
    7,151
    Users Country Flag
    Just a thought Is the towbar ADR compliant in Australia
    2021 Kamiq LE 110 , Moon White, BV cameras F & B
    Mamba Ebike to replace Tiguan

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Darwin, NT
    Posts
    157
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Hillbilly View Post
    Just a thought Is the towbar ADR compliant in Australia
    More compliant than most box trailers. The NSW rego on my 3 box trailers all say H/Made.

    Happy Days.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Pacific Paradise QLD
    Posts
    7,151
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by joel0407 View Post
    More compliant than most box trailers. The NSW rego on my 3 box trailers all say H/Made.

    Happy Days.
    Im not being flippant about it. You can get a box trailer certified for use on inspection.

    Not so with an imported towbar which must be ADR approved to be legal.

    Otherwise insurance payments may come into question should anything go wrong attributable to an illegal fitting.

    Your car your life just pointing out the pitfalls.

    After years of vanning cant believe what some people think is actually Ok when its not.

    In NZ I made my own towbars but wouldnt try it here due to ramifications of something going wrong
    2021 Kamiq LE 110 , Moon White, BV cameras F & B
    Mamba Ebike to replace Tiguan

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide hills, SA
    Posts
    9,708
    Users Country Flag
    A nice write up. So, how much did all the parts cost you including shipping and how many hours did you spend fitting it?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Darwin, NT
    Posts
    157
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Transporter View Post
    A nice write up. So, how much did all the parts cost you including shipping and how many hours did you spend fitting it?
    All the bits from PF Jones were $844 delivered. I had ordered the wrong wiring kit from them though and had to order the correct kit from a UK Skoda dealer, it ended up being $265 deliverder. I haven't received the credit for the returned wiring kit to PF Jones yet.

    The same wiring kit, I ordered from a UK Skoda Dealer was $730 in Canberra. The $265 included 5 day delivery with Royal Mail.

    Happy Days.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide hills, SA
    Posts
    9,708
    Users Country Flag

    Quote Originally Posted by joel0407 View Post
    All the bits from PF Jones were $844 delivered. I had ordered the wrong wiring kit from them though and had to order the correct kit from a UK Skoda dealer, it ended up being $265 deliverder. I haven't received the credit for the returned wiring kit to PF Jones yet.

    The same wiring kit, I ordered from a UK Skoda Dealer was $730 in Canberra. The $265 included 5 day delivery with Royal Mail.

    Happy Days.
    How long (how many hours) did it take you to install it? If you don't mind me asking?

Page 1 of 6 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
| |