Unticked in Installation list but still in Auto Scan

[remigi]

Hi guys

I have replaced my 1K0 970 530 E CAN gateway with a 7N0 970 530L to try and stop the battery drain from the RCD510; however, I am still getting a slow drain. After one week the car takes a while to start, after two weeks the battery is dead.

I am trying to find out if it is incorrect coding on my behalf. I have one constant malfunction, that is Module 61: Battery Regulator. I don't have a battery regulator and so i UNTICKED it in the installation list; however, it is still showing up in the Auto-Scan. How do I code it out totally so that it no longer shows up in the Auto-Scan.

Is it possible that the CAN gateway is not going to sleep because it is looking for this battery regulator module thats not there? How can I code it out of the Auto-Scan....?? - As you can see below, its in the auto-scan list at the top, but then does not show up in the actual scan.

01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
61-Battery Regul. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio (J0503) Labels: 5M0-035-1xx-56.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 035 190 A HW: 5K0 035 190 A
Component: Radio RCD510 051 0207
Revision: 00000001 Serial number: VWZ1Z3L8071483
Coding: 0101000001000E
Shop #: WSC 00020 790 12345
VCID: 236B327C22383306A65-8076

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 62: Door, Rear Left Labels: 1K0-959-703-GEN1.lbl
Part No: 1K0 959 703 C
Component: Tuersteuergeraet 06 0213
Coding: 0000016
Shop #: WSC 00046 412 00000
VCID: 3041CD30A3CE989E2B7-8065

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks!!!

Remi

[Umai Naa!!]

Have you done the obvious in having the battery and charging system checked?

[remigi]

No, but the charging system is fine because if I remove the battery cable or Radio fuse then it does not drain.

[Umai Naa!!]

Check the coding in the Central Electrics control module, regarding the Battery Regulation.

[Transporter]

So, what's the battery drain in mA?

[remigi]

So, what's the battery drain in mA?

Well, I have just tested the current as follows with my ORIGINAL gateway in the car 1K0-970-530-E - 0110.

NOTE: this is the EXACT same draw I was getting with the new gateway installed

0) Came after a 30 min drive and left the Radio Fuse in ENGINE BAY in.
1) Opened the bonnet but left it latched
2) Locked the car - note the lights did not flash as it detected that the bonnet was open
3) Left the car for 90 minutes
4) Came back and Opened the bonnet and tested the battery voltage - 12.57V
5) Disconnected the Negative terminal from the battery. Connected the the negative COM from the multimeter to the negative Cable i just disconnected. Connect the positive lead from the multimeter to the negative TERMINAL on the battery. I set the multimeter to 10Amps

6) At connection the AMP's was 1.98 -> 2.00Amps this then dropped to 0.03Amps after 5 minutes. It fluctuated between 0.03 and 0.04 from then onwards with no change.
7) As a test I removed the RADIO FUSE in the ENGINE BAY and then put it back in. On putting it back in, the AMPS once again spiked to 2.00Amp and then dropped to 0.03Amps again after 5 minutes.

Would disconnecting the negative lead from the battery and then connecting it in series with the multimeter not just reset all the circuits anyway and give a false reading?

Is it possible that my old 1K0-970-530 E gateway is in fact compatible? or should the draw be 0Amps?

Thanks

[Umai Naa!!]

As an aside, please stick to ONE thread.

[Transporter]

Well, I have just tested the current as follows with my ORIGINAL gateway in the car 1K0-970-530-E - 0110.

NOTE: this is the EXACT same draw I was getting with the new gateway installed

0) Came after a 30 min drive and left the Radio Fuse in ENGINE BAY in.
1) Opened the bonnet but left it latched
2) Locked the car - note the lights did not flash as it detected that the bonnet was open
3) Left the car for 90 minutes
4) Came back and Opened the bonnet and tested the battery voltage - 12.57V
5) Disconnected the Negative terminal from the battery. Connected the the negative COM from the multimeter to the negative Cable i just disconnected. Connect the positive lead from the multimeter to the negative TERMINAL on the battery. I set the multimeter to 10Amps

6) At connection the AMP's was 1.98 -> 2.00Amps this then dropped to 0.03Amps after 5 minutes. It fluctuated between 0.03 and 0.04 from then onwards with no change.
7) As a test I removed the RADIO FUSE in the ENGINE BAY and then put it back in. On putting it back in, the AMPS once again spiked to 2.00Amp and then dropped to 0.03Amps again after 5 minutes.

Would disconnecting the negative lead from the battery and then connecting it in series with the multimeter not just reset all the circuits anyway and give a false reading?

Is it possible that my old 1K0-970-530 E gateway is in fact compatible? or should the draw be 0Amps?

Thanks

As Umai Naa! said, anything under 50mA (0.05A) is considered normal current flaw after 20-30minutes from locking your car and it will not cause the excessive battery discharge. Put the old gateway back in and see what happens. To properly test the battery drain overnight you need a better meter than the average multimeter.

[Umai Naa!!]

You need to test it longterm. At least half an hour.

With the bonnet open, use a screwdriver to 'close' the latch mechanism completely, then lock the car.

Observe what happens over the next half an hour.

Initially, you'll see a reduction in current draw, as most consumables shut down, then again at 20 minutes when the Gateway goes to 'sleep'. From then on, current draw sould be less than approx. 0.02A.

If, for some reason, the Gateway wakes up, at the 20 minute mark, the Gateway is likely to be faulty.

[remigi]

You need to test it longterm. At least half an hour.

With the bonnet open, use a screwdriver to 'close' the latch mechanism completely, then lock the car.

Observe what happens over the next half an hour.

Initially, you'll see a reduction in current draw, as most consumables shut down, then again at 20 minutes when the Gateway goes to 'sleep'. From then on, current draw sould be less than approx. 0.02A.

If, for some reason, the Gateway wakes up, at the 20 minute mark, the Gateway is likely to be faulty.

Ok, I will try that tomorrow.

In terms of process flow - my multimeter is max 10Amps, so in order not to blow the fuse in it, how do I do it.

1) Open bonnet
2) Lock bonnet with screw driver
3) lock car
4) disconnect negative terminal and connect multimeter in series?

OR

1) Open bonnet
2) disconnect negative terminal and connect multimeter in series?
3) lock bonnet with screw driver
4) lock car

Essentially, does it matter if you lock the car and then disconnect the battery and reconnect it through the multimeter? Does this rewake all circuits?

So, the current draw should be 0.02Amps or 0.02mAH... as I am getting 0.03/4 at the moment after 5 minutes.

Thanks so much!