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Thread: Vacuum leak help

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2016
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    Melbourne, Victoria
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    The PCV is integrated into the valve cover. See here for a diagram.
    Membrane for valve cover VAG 06F103469D 2.0 FSI - Vanos BMW Repair kits for cars
    2016 GTI 40 Years | 2012 Up! | 2006 Jetta - Sold

  2. #32
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    Jun 2013
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    Thanks again MEL744. Wouldn't mind buying one of those PCV membranes - have you tried to buy one from their eBay store? Looks like they're in Russia.

  3. #33
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    May 2016
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    No problem, I haven't bought one, as far as I can tell the PCV system is operating normally on my car (could be wrong about that though). Have never tried to pry off the plastic cap either to have a look, might try it next time I am at the wreckers.
    2016 GTI 40 Years | 2012 Up! | 2006 Jetta - Sold

  4. #34
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    Yes I think ours is still ok too but would be good to have as a spare in case it goes south in the future.Good idea to take one apart at the self-serve wreckers too.

  5. #35
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    PCV is fed from crank up the hose on the left, and then back out the pipe on the right back to the intake.
    If you wanted a catch can you would put in inline with either of those 2 lines.
    MK4 GTI - Sold
    MK5 Jetta Turbo - Sold
    MK5 Jetta 2.Slow - Until it dies.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Goulburn NSW
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    184
    Dont, I pulled my daughters out thinking it might be leaking. its REAL thin ended up putting my fat thumbs through the diaphragm. just looking at getting one from Vanos BMW at the moment - they are the only place I have seen them advertised

  7. #37
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    Jun 2013
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks for the info re the PCV valve routing Justcruisin. Well I've finally found the time to finish the repair and the hardest part was the crazy clic-R hose clips! I managed to reuse 5 but had to buy 3 new ones at $15 each bartered down from $20 each from VW (I could not find them anywhere else).

    Turns out the clic-R pliers I bought were too thick (see attached pics) as I couldn't get them to close the clips, even though they opened the clips fine. These clips may be great for the robots assembling the car but for us humans they are a giant pain. I tried to find regular hose clamps to fit but all of them were too wide to fit the rubber hoses.

    Anyway, reassembled the intake manifold and smoke tested it again and everything was ok. Runs great now and rough idle gone. Thanks to Justcruisin and MEL744 for your valuable assistance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Vacuum leak help-clic-r-pliers-closeup-2-jpg   Vacuum leak help-clic-r-bend-point-jpg  


  8. #38
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    May 2016
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    No problem, happy to help out! That's very annoying about the pliers not workings, those clips really are a pain! Would you mind sharing the link to the pliers you bought so we can know which ones to avoid?
    2016 GTI 40 Years | 2012 Up! | 2006 Jetta - Sold

  9. #39
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  10. #40
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    Well the Golf was fine for a week or two but then one morning my wife drove off in it only to come back a few minutes later saying the poor idle was back and she just made it back home. I started it up and it sounded and felt different this time - more like an ignition problem than a leaking vacuum problem. It was so bad it was undrivable.

    After checking all electrical plugs and vacuum hoses were intact, I plugged in the Vagcom and all the old "Leak in Air Intake System" and "Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected" error codes were there. Realising I hadn't cleared the old codes after I fixed the intake rubbers, I cleared all codes and started the car up to get new codes.

    After clearing the codes it suddenly ran beautifully!!! What??? How could clearing codes change the engine from undrivable to running perfectly? Has anyone ever heard of this? It happened too suddenly to be co-incidental and we had started the car many times across multiple days prior to this trying to diagnose the problem.

    After a few days of running well it now will not even start - turns fine but doesn't engage. Charged the battery up and ran another Vag com scan and there are NO errors at all except for drivers headlight bulb which we know is blown. I've got a fair bit of diagnosing ahead of me but I thought the "running well after clearing fault codes" may be a clue to the problem. Any ideas?

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