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Thread: Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

  1. #91
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    Nice progress H. Some tasty bits there.
    Still can't believe the previous owner thought that was even remotely acceptable work.
    Keen to see and hear it in action again

  2. #92
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    Jun 2011
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    Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

    Opted to spend some coin on new suspension with more appropriate spring rates and damper adjustability. Has ended up being a bit of a cockshow.


    Bought BC racing coilovers (local stock)
    Didn’t realise that the rear height adjustment was just different sized plates/spacers so fixed height of max low, 6mm raised, 12mm raised or 18mm raised

    The even bigger issue, is that the damper adjuster sits so close to the body that it’s impossible to adjust damper with the wheels on. Can’t be flipped because it hits the shock mount and the strut can’t be inverted because of different sized bolts/bushing ID’s.





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  3. #93
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    can you drill a hole in the body in that spot as an access port?

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    can you drill a hole in the body in that spot as an access port?
    Might have to be the go if a return can’t be negotiated.

    The issue with drilling the hole is that, that metal there is like a box section, so is ~80mm thick.


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  5. #95
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    How goods your run with cars lately H!

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by dylan8 View Post
    How goods your run with cars lately H!
    Red mk3 did a heater core today too :p


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  7. #97
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    could maybe run a long drill bit through the box section from inside to outside (oversized) and then insert a pipe section to bridge between the two skins of the box section. Tack it on at either side. If you can find remote adjusters you could feed them down the pipe onto the head of the adjuster.

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    could maybe run a long drill bit through the box section from inside to outside (oversized) and then insert a pipe section to bridge between the two skins of the box section. Tack it on at either side. If you can find remote adjusters you could feed them down the pipe onto the head of the adjuster.
    The rear beaver panel is ~150mm from the other side of the box section, so would need to try attack from both sides, was initially thinking 1.5”~ hole saw should be doable.

    Just annoyed that I’ll likely have to cut holes in what looks to be fairly structural metal for the sake of being able to turn a tiny knob, that with a little more hindsight could have been avoided in design initially.


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  9. #99
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    Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

    So one of the more involved modifications got finished up yesterday.

    26mm brake master cylinder from a commodore.



    Required a little tinkering but all in all not a hard process, dry test went ok. Will have to wait till I have wheels to see how well it goes with fluid.

    Fitted some EBC red rear brake pads I got with a car I purchased, while I had the calipers off I painted them black to match the fronts.




    I also sikaflex/filled the remaining diff bushings.

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  10. #100
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

    After 3.5 months, wheels finally turned up and thankfully clear without spacers! YAY
    17x8 ET30 Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2’s

    While not the lightest wheel around, they are the only ones that will clear without massive spacers I’ve been able to find.


    I’ve been plodding along doing bits and pieces when I can.



    Dashboard out to remove all of the airbag and rear speaker wiring.

    Removing seam sealer so when it comes time to put the cage in. I can go along and stitch weld the seams through the car.


    Sneak peek of header clearance through the small hole. Had to trim down the steering rack housing. Other alternative is to dent the header.

    And the whole piece!


    Put adjustable end links on the front.


    Heat protection on the intake manifold and intake pipe.

    Gathering parts to make a new exhaust. 4” exit tips, and a 3” in twin 2.5 out muffler,
    will also be putting in a 18” resonator.





    Neuspeed crank pulley on that I’ve had lying around for a long time.

    And a little preventative maintenance while it’s easy to change.



    Driveshaft coupler/bushing/giubo

    I also went a bit crazy with a hole saw. Main goal was to try get a bit more air flow into the radiator, that then escalated


    Also finally got around to hacking up the factory 3 pipe bracket thing for the auxiliary radiator and power steering hose
    Started something like this

    Finished like this



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    Last edited by HaydEn; 09-11-2019 at 03:34 PM.

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