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Thread: Bora R32 Build Thread

  1. #131
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Fronts had to be done in 2 stages. Struts and springs, then the R32 knuckle swap.

    Undo top mount nut - 60nM
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_5916-jpg

    remove sway bar link - 90nM, brake lines and abs wiring from the strut.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_5918-jpg

    new links
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_5923-jpg

    Undo strut to knuckle bolt 60nM + 90' and insert knuckle spreader bit
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_5919-jpg

    Pulled the strut out, had to swap over the brake line/abs bracket. Litte bit of anti-seize inside the knuckle to stop the strut from seizing in there.

    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_5922-jpg
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_5921-jpg

    Done.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_5924-jpg

    Quick comparison height wise
    R32 EU v R32 AU
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_5920-jpg
    Last edited by beale187; 24-05-2022 at 09:30 AM. Reason: images

  2. #132
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    Bora knuckles V R32 knuckles.

    Note the R32 position of the ball joint sits lower. This helps bring the driveshafts closer to parallel when the vehicle is lowered.

    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6102-jpg
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6103-jpg

    And the Bora arms V R32 arms.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6176-jpg


    Note the tapered end of the arm allows for wider track and more camber adjustment.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6177-jpg


    I was all over the place trying to get this done in one day so i may have missed a few steps here but they would've been covered previously when I installed the front struts.

    First step was to undo the inner CV joint whilst the knuckle and brake caliper were still attached. I didn't get a pic of it but I normally take a small flat head screw driver (marked in red) and slip it between the brake caliper and the carrier and into one of the disc vents. This stops the wheel from turning whilst undoing the inner CV joint.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_3902-jpg

    6x M10 triple square. Torqued to 70nM.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_5928-jpg

    Removed the knuckle
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6171-jpg

    Removing the control arm was fairly straight forward, 18mm bolt / nut at the rear (70nM +90')
    and 1 at the front (also 70nM + 90').

    Problem with the front one was it kept hitting the sump before I could fully extract it.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6174-jpg

    So I was forced to lower the whole subframe to get the clearance needed and pull the arms out.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6175-jpg

    Tie Rods.
    On standard Golfs / Bora the tie rod ends face downwards and angle towards the rear of the vehicle.

    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6107-jpg

    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6108-jpg

    When installing R32 knuckles it's necessary to flip them upside down - THEN swap them left to right so they angle towards the rear. Note the angle changes when flipped upside down.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6180-jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6172-jpg  
    Last edited by beale187; 24-05-2022 at 09:48 AM. Reason: images

  3. #133
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    This unfortunately is where I came unstuck, I fitted the rod ends into the knuckle but there was a stupid amount of play.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6112-jpg

    So as it turns out when I stripped the knuckles from my old R32 the knuckles have metal sleeves in them, which in my case were still stuck on the R32 steering rack.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6117-jpg

    sleeve removed.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6122-jpg

    Pressed it back in the knuckle and that fixed that set back.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6125-jpg

    Got the knuckle back in the car, note the tie rod end now faces UPWARD.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6223-jpg
    Last edited by beale187; 24-05-2022 at 09:12 AM. Reason: images

  4. #134
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    Awesome stuff man!

    Great detail, makes for a great read.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaydEn View Post
    Awesome stuff man!

    Great detail, makes for a great read.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks mate, I'm hoping to get it to the track some time this year and look at ways of adding a bit more power in the future.

    But there's no point adding power if I can't go around corners and stop when I need to! So suspension and brakes come first.
    2004 VW Bora 4motion | 3.2 Swapped - R32 Trimmings | BBS CH | Forever fixing this bitch

  6. #136
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    Bairnsdale & Ferntree Gully, Victoria
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    It's happening!
    Thanks for sharing all the numbers and documenting the whole thing.

    Where you were discussing the driveshaft. Did you happen to compare the lengths when full compressed vs full extended. I would have thought the 32 one was a smidge longer (or atleast had a longer reach) as the suspension track is wider.
    But maybe the bearing plays some part in that

    Sent from my HTC 2PZC100 using Tapatalk

  7. #137
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    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6104-jpg

    Didn't measure them exactly but the R32 one does seem a bit. Looking back at that pic I'm thinking the extra length is picked up at the axle end cup (just before the splines) looks to be about 10mm longer.

  8. #138
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    Brakes.

    So I had my mechanic fit some R32 brakes about 2yrs when he changed the master cyclinder.

    Rotors and pads were shot pretty much on all 4 corners and the paint was looking very sad. So I took the opportunity over the 4 day long weekend to rip in and replace and repaint the lot.

    Jacked it up, removed the wheels.

    First step, clamp all the lines.

    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6431-jpg

    starting at the rear, lever down the handbrake cable bracket and push the cable end out.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6429-jpg

    disconnect and cap the line and plug the caliper.

    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6434-jpg

    undo the slide pins (install back to 38nM)
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6436-jpg

    undo the carrier bolts. (install back to 80nM)
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6427-jpg

    And it's off.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6435-jpg

  9. #139
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    Fronts are much easier

    undo the brake pad wear sensor
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6416-jpg

    undo bracket line support bracket (10nM) and brake line
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6420-jpg

    remove carrier bolts (install self locking bolts back 125nM, clean if reusing)
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6418-jpg

    Done
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6421-jpg

  10. #140
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    next up was the most time consuming sh*t of the whole process.

    Stripping down, cleaning and masking them up.

    Started by splitting the front caliper and carrier.

    remove the protective cap
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6440-jpg

    then slide pin (install back to 25nM)
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6441-jpg

    push the pistons back.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6443-jpg

    * Rear pistons are twist and push, may need a rewind tool for that job *

    Hit everything with a degreaser, then a hose down, then hot water and dishwashing liquid with a scrubbing brush.
    After that, dremel with a wire wheels, wire brushes, sand paper. Basically whatever it takes to get those b*tches clean, even if it means you remove a little paint. THEN another quick wash
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6448-jpg

    On the rear, you can pull off the slide pin bushes. On the front I found it easier to push them from the side that faces the pad. Little bit of WD40 helped
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6450-jpg

    Also decided to sand down any rust spot where bare metal was exposed. For example where the pads ride.

    Before
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6444-jpg

    After
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6445-jpg

    Then time to mask up.
    Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6451-jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bora R32 Build Thread-img_6442-jpg  

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