Bora R32 Build Thread

Haven't updated this thread in a while, so here goes.

April 2021 - Lost clutch pedal. Found the seals on the bleeder block had blown out. The MKIV seals have been revised and now share the same style seal as the MK5's.

Old style seals that sit inside the bleeder block
Attachment 53159

New style seal (slides over the clutch line)
Attachment 53160

Also got sick of the BC coilovers that were just eating tyres (too much neg camber)

On BC's
Attachment 53161

Attachment 53162

Threw the stock springs just to get a base line height (approx 37mm)
Attachment 53163

Then finally decided to put the R32 stock suspension in. Can confirm R32 v Stock Bora suspension gave me a drop of about 10-15mm all round. Firmed up the suspension nicely also. You can see the height difference in the rear springs.

Attachment 53167

Attachment 53164

Attachment 53165

Attachment 53166

Final ride height (approx 35.5mm)
Attachment 53168

June.

Driving to work, get this message "STOP OIL PRESS" warning, was intermittent over a few days.

So that weekend decided to drop the sump to see what's going on.

Find a piece of the plastic baffling floating around in the sump, I can only assume it was occasionally getting caught in the oil pickup.

Was pretty happy though, oil was clean with minimal sludge. Cleaned up the sump, checked the oil pick up and went back to business. Curious, found a QR code on the bottom of the block?

Attachment 53169
Attachment 53170
Attachment 53171
Attachment 53172
Attachment 53173

July.

This motherf@&^er. More coolant leaks.
Attachment 53174

Decided to pull everything apart (again, 5mths after the changing the last radiator) only to find the radiator was leaking in the exact spot as last time.

Attachment 53175

Surely couldn't be a coincidence? Nope, turns out this whole time it was the fan assembly. It's either from an 4cyc (VR fans are slimline) OR I suspect it's an aftermarket Topran assembly. Anytime there was some "spirited driving" or heavy braking, the fan assembly was slowly punching the radiator.

The center of the Topran fan assembly sat much prouder in the shroud then the OEM - Not too mention the sharp bolt ends.

Topran
Attachment 53177

OEM 2.8 Bora
Attachment 53178

Almost forgot the mention, look like the whole shroud was bowed in the middle.
Attachment 53179

Replaced everything, finger crossed that's the end of the coolant saga.

Interested in what's your findings on the vr6 fans being thinner? Is that to allow for a big radiator or more space at the rear?

Sent from my HTC 2PZC100 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dylan8

Interested in what's your findings on the vr6 fans being thinner? Is that to allow for a big radiator or more space at the rear?

Sent from my HTC 2PZC100 using Tapatalk

---

V5/V6/R32 all run a 34mm core radiator, so the fans are slimmer
4cyc's run a 26mm core radiator.

They all have the same mounting points so physically they're all interchangeable but as above you gotta run the slimmer fans on the VR's to avoid the problem I had. You could probably run a 26mm radiator if you had one and got stuck but I wouldn't run it long term. VR's run hot baby

Interesting. Might save me importing some stuff for the wagoon

So for a while now I've had this annoying whistling noise and a hunting idle so I knew I had a vac leak somewhere.

Tracked it down to the PCV diaphragm, which is common issue on the MK5 3.2's. Whistling noise was coming from here.
Attachment 53346

Worse bit, some F&^%ing moron at VW decided to put it inside the valve cover. So to replace it was a bitch.

Figured whilst I had the manifold and valve cover off I'd replace all the seals and give the valve cover and manifold a lick of paint. Also ordered some R36 blue coil pack covers to suit.

Parts ready to go. Replacement PCV diaphragm from RKX Tech in the US. Hard to Find Parts and Accessories for Volkswagen and Audi Vehicles – RKXtech
Also ordered a 5mm block off cap from OCDEURO Australia | VAG Auto Parts | Internal Chassis Bracing to put on the back of the manifold where the charcoal canister was deleted by the previous owner.
Attachment 53347

Manifold & valve cover painted
Attachment 53348

Previous owner blocked the port on the back of the manifold where the charcoal canister would normally go by cutting the tube and sticking an old allen key in there. Remember, it's not stupid if it works. :duh:
Attachment 53356

Block off cap installed
Attachment 53357

manifold off
Attachment 53349

Good time to clean out carbon build up on the intake port. 1 down, 5 to go.
Attachment 53350

Valve cover off
Attachment 53351

Quick inspection of the Schrick 268/264 cams. I'm assuming this is the batch number.
Attachment 53352

Attachment 53353


Old PCV diaphragm, thing had holes in it all over the place.
Attachment 53354

New RKX one installed, pulled the oil separator apart and gave it a thorough clean.
Attachment 53355

Threw everything back together. Included torque specs below for future reference.

Attachment 53358

ALSO note, for anyone reading this with the same problem. There is an easier solution (which I was not aware of until after completing this bullsh*t job) The VW Touareg 3.2 has a similar PCV setup but the diaphragm is located EXTERNAL of the valve cover. Link below with a detailed write up of how it works, parts needed and how to repair it without going through the process I did above.

3.2 VR-6 (BUB) PCV Diaphragm Replacement Alternative | Audi TT Forum

Another thing that was really bugging me was the 2.8 harness runs along the top of the manifold but the 3.2 runs along the bottom.

So I started stripping off all the split tubing and begun wrapping the harness in TESA tape. Unfortunately I hit 2 snags.

First being that 3 wires were not longer enough to route along the bottom. Second being the coil packs on 2,4,6 would not seat properly when rotated 180' degrees. After speaking with another legend on here he advised some of the coil packs were different lengths. Yet to confirm this but I suspect that may be the issue. Anyway tidied it up best i could and left it for another day.

split tubing just fell apart
Attachment 53360

Attempt to reroute wiring
Attachment 53361

Before
Attachment 53359

After
Attachment 53362

Nov 2021.

So I've had all the trims and bits required to swap my hood lining over to black (like the US spec Jetta GLi's) problem being though LHR door is completely deadlocked. The RHR door was playing up also (would lock/unlock electronically, but not mechanically)
Drivers doors was also developing issues (wouldn't unlock from the inside OR outside) either.

After dealing with MK4 door lock issues for likes 8yrs across probably 6-7 different Bora's I've owned I bit the bullet and ordered all new OEM door locks and hardware from overseas.

Attachment 53542

I'm not going into a lot of detail on replacing these as there is already plenty of information out there.

With RHR door trim removed (yes it can be removed with the door closed) I had no option but to take a screwdriver and hammer and being destroying the door lock from within.

Attachment 53543

First step is to separate the electrical portion of the lock module from the mechanical part.

Attachment 53544

once it's separated, pry up the metal plate (circled below) and you can begin rotating the lock.
Attachment 53545

and presto, only 4-5hrs later and the door is open!
Attachment 53546

the lock carriers are not supplied with the door lock modules and have to be purchased separately. You can get away with not even using them but I figured they probably help support and reduce vibration to the door lock and for the $6 or whatever they are I just bought them.

They are pop riveted to lock module which is a bitch. When reinstalling all my new locks and carriers I went with a bolt, nut and spring washer arrangement to make it easier to change in the future should I need to.

Attachment 53547

Attachment 53548

Attachment 53549

Probably the only other bit worth mentioning is on the rear doors, the window pins need to be pressed in BEFORE the window is installed. Once they're pressed in you can simply drop the window in and the pin will lock into the window carrier.

Attachment 53550

Attachment 53551

Attachment 53553