Troublesome T5. My mechanic told me to burn it.

[Dafttemplar]

Well g'day, Thanks for stopping by.




So i used to be a proud owner of a 2010 T5, SWB, 128Kw, Auto, diesel transporter until this happened.
240K times around the dial.


Over the course of the last 8 months or so i had noticed the van had been a little more sluggish then usual when getting off the mark however it was never much cause for concern as i tend to drive it fairly gingerly anyway, its not exactly a hot hatch. Then about three months ago i took the vehicle out for a 30 minute drive for breakfast and on my return I found the vehicle wouldn't turn over. Lots of cranking happening in the engine compartment just no ignition happening. After an expensive tow truck to an independent VW mechanic he claimed no fault codes present and after holding the ignition on for 18 seconds the van started, he speculated bad fuel or air in the fuel line. I accepted his analysis and was happy that the episode only cost me $600.




Cut to: 2 days later
After about 8 starts without fault and a topping up the fuel with fresh diesel the issue has returned and the van won’t kick over. This time perhaps 20 seconds later the van roars to life and drives normally, I decide to take it to a different mechanic that comes recommended from a friend. The new mechanic puts it on the hoist has a good look over the thing and reports “ Test van for crank but no start - Check for fault codes - found cylinder 5 misfire code - will require further testing. Could be possibly glow plug or injector issue may require compression test. However no the cause of no start,

Check data while van cranks but no start - found no signal from crank position sensor replaced and test van. fault has not re occurred at this time. Note fault is intermittent and may present again.

Recommend removing after market alarm system as these are notorious for causing problems with age.

found minor oil leaks, cv split, requires service, power steering pump leak. “

He returns van to me and I decide to only drive it when necessary. After a day or two the problem present itself again and I go out and buy an Amarok to ease my pain.

about two months later I make arrangements to drive the van back to Sydney (I was away for work) the starting issue persists on occasion but I’m able to turn the ignition for 15- 25 seconds and get the vehicle to start. It drives fairly well until about 3 1/2 hours into the trip when the vehicle dies while idling at a traffic light. I observed some faltering of the engine - (heavier then normal vibration and the revs dropping significantly) prior to the engine dieing. A 20 second start procedure and it runs again. I decide to push it as im only 45 minutes away from Sydney and will drive it straight to my usual mechanic for more diagnosis. I put the vehicle in sport mode and keep revs around 2500 - 3500 as the engine doesn’t faulter up here. Again the engine dies when at low revs, another start after 20 secs or so then finally it dies cruising at 110km, Glow plug light, engine light and Exclamation all illuminate and im able to start it one last time to get it to a safe position on the road for a tow.

My usual mechanic receives the van on the Monday and reports the engine is faulting an issue with the turbo. But can’t see how that is related to the starting. I mention the sluggish performance over the last 8 months and he says that aligns. I tell him I’ve bought a new vehicle so I just want to get the thing working as cheaply as possible and get it out of my life. He clears the error code and starts the problem without fault takes it for a short drive and holds onto it for a week or two continually trying to recreate the starting issue it only reoccurs once but with no error codes. He starts the van maybe 15 times without fault, I ask him to disable the Imobiliser/ alarm he agrees but the Auto electrician takes a look and says save your money its not the alarm system. I decide to take the vehicle back register for 6 months and sell it cheaply with a disclaimer that the vehicle has a starting issue.

yesterday I take the van for a 10 minute drive to recharge the battery and the engine death issue I experienced on the freeway at 110km has presented again, this time with different dash illumination (no glow plug light). Also the battery is flat so I can only attempt to restart it for about 15 seconds before I loose power.


I spoke to a service manager at VW dealership he leans over the counter as says just get rid of it, It sounds like you will be pissing money into a black hole. My usual mechanic doesn’t want to just randomly start changing components as he thinks it will just cost too much. ( I agree) I can’t sell the thing with and keep a clear conscience.
Has anyone here any insight? As you can tell im not particularly versed in Diesel engines and need some perspectives. At the moment the thing is only worth its weight in scrap. A used transporter of this elk at the moment would likely sell for $17k
is it worth me spending the coin to find the problem? I’ve already spent $3000 in registration, insurance, tow trucks, rental cars and diagnosis and im no better off.

Help?

Anyone want a broken Transporter?

[Sendo_VW_multivan_2010]

Is it a cfca engine? Biturbo? Did it use oil between services?


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[Kombi]

Sorry to hear your your trouble, if you can’t get the problem diagnosed and remedy costs estimated, maybe consider a replacement engine, at least then you can trade it in. I’m in WA, I’m sure someone on this group could recommend a reliable T5 expert in NSW.
For reverence sake model change happened 2010, 2.5L 5 cylinder 128kw, 2L 4 cylinder bi turbo 132kw, the latter 180hp cfca engine is the “2 stroke” engine.

[Sendo_VW_multivan_2010]

Looking at new engine options at the moment.
Has anyone imported cfca short block or biturbo?
Are there any other engines that will fit in a T5 2010 cfca?


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[scotinoz]

Sounds like you need to go to someone who knows T5’s, VW dealerships are hit and miss. Have you checked fuel filter and pump?

[Dafttemplar]

Thanks for the clarification, I have the 2.5l 128kw.


Oil burn off was not significant at last service. At least it wasn’t noted from my mechanic.
The fuel pump was speculated as being the problem early on by one of the mechanics but how does one narrow the problems down.
As it stands they have speculated.

Turbo
Injectors
Timing
Immobiliser
Glow plugs
Fuel pump
Crank angle sensor (replaced)

[Silver Caravelle]

I would be suspecting something on the fuel delivery side such as the main fuel injection pump, but the simple and cheap thing first would be to put a new fuel filter in first and get your mechanic to check for constant and correct fuel pressure, and in tank fuel pump function before diving into the main fuel injection pump ( on side of engine) and fuel injector issues.

Cheers, Scott

[Silver Caravelle]

P.S. Main fuel pump on side of engine is called the Tandem pump. This is the pump that supplies fuel to individual PD injectors. Also provides vacuum for brake circuit.

[Silver Caravelle]

Another thought when checking fuel system pressure, check for fuel line leaks from fuel tank to fuel filter and fuel return line to fuel tank and hose clamps. Also secure hose connections on the fuel filter. If say fuel pressure is being lost it will take a little while to build up fuel pressure again to start the engine, assuming the intake fuel pump is not intermittently faulty with a poor electrical connection.

[Dafttemplar]

Thanks Silver Caravelle this is very useful, anything that can be done to fault find is extremely helpful.