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Thread: T5 Water Pump in R5 5cyl.TDI (discussion thread)

  1. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Adelaide,Oz
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    356

    Quote Originally Posted by Umai Naa!! View Post
    There's a rubber tube that runs down the back of the block, that comes out of roughly where the water pump lives.

    Check that for coolant. If there's evidence of coolant coming out of it, replace the water pump.
    The right angle fitting/bolt at the pump often becomes blocked, because it is such a small I.D.
    Hence you may not see water at the end, even if the pump is leaking
    You would probably be better off, unscrewing the fitting entirely, then check for water
    Steve
    04 T5 auto 2.5L TDI

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    South Morang, Victoria
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    77
    Users Country Flag
    Thanks for the advice!

    I haven't had the timing chain replaced either, so is this a job I should do at the same time?
    Caravelle is 2009 build and has 108,000kms.

    If it isn't the water pump, what else could be the cause?

    Who would you recommend as a mechanic in the Northern suburbs of Melbourne (3754)?

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Sydney/Canberra
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    5,521
    Users Country Flag
    No chain on these, they're gear-driven.
    '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
    '01 Beetle 2.0

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mt Cotton
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    3,733
    Quote Originally Posted by Umai Naa!! View Post
    No chain on these, they're gear-driven.
    VW should have stuck with the gear drive , much more reliable no drive belts getting dragged into timing case destroying top ends in one foul swoop .

  5. #75
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    Apr 2007
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    Adelaide hills, SA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunny43.5 View Post
    VW should have stuck with the gear drive , much more reliable no drive belts getting dragged into timing case destroying top ends in one foul swoop .
    I agree with that.

  6. #76
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    South Morang, Victoria
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    Users Country Flag
    Looks like it is the water pump, as there is some 'milkiness' under the oil cap now.

    I have been quoted $1000 at a VW specialist to have this repaired with an SKF water pump and using my own oil and coolant (purchased a while ago).
    Is this reasonable?

    I'm not sure if I have enough confidence to do this job myself, even though I am a DIYer.
    In saying so, if I can do the job for under $500, then I would consider spending time to do it!
    So, where would you recommend purchasing a water pump from, and what is the most reliable brand?
    A special tool was also mentioned. Where can I get this?

    Thanks again in advance for any advice.

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide hills, SA
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    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    It depends what tools you have and how capable are you in improvising. Though be prepared to spend a day to do it, that’s what other DIYers said.

    I did my first one in 2008, took me whole afternoon, but in the process I made my own special tools for the next time. The Continental would be my brand choice or better still check if there’s Mayle HD pump for the AXE engine.

  8. #78
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Adelaide,Oz
    Posts
    356
    IMO, the only special tool you need is a small bearing puller or slide hammer to pull the pump out.This is the only hard part of the operation.
    And not to drop anything into the engine/gear train

    Genuine VW pumps are $400+ , 2-3 hrs labour, so $600-800 total sounds reasonable to me, if you can't do it yourself.

    edit:
    ebay list an SKF pump VKPC 81420(not fully sure this is correct/check your engine code) for $220ish delivered, so i think 1K is even more OTT
    https://www.ebay.com.au/p/244332380?iid=223333877095

    I went with a Borg & Beck straight from Supercheaps
    Last edited by Rebuild; 20-07-2020 at 09:51 AM.
    Steve
    04 T5 auto 2.5L TDI

  9. #79
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Location
    birmingham
    Posts
    3
    Hey people just a few questions...do you need to remove the dipstick tube(was mentioned in the guide on brick yard but I can't see why it's needed) and is it essential to drain the coolant housing...

    I've come to do the job on mine but because I have a 4motion it's impossible to see these bits underneath the 4motion kit is in the way...i can't even find the drain...im going to get a mirror see if I can see from the top.

    Cheers mine is a 2009 bnz engine on 118k on the original...was just doing as preventative not losing anything. What's everybody suggest...thanks..

  10. #80
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Adelaide,Oz
    Posts
    356

    A while since i did mine.
    i think i removed the dipstick tube, to make it easier.
    IIRC there is a 6 or 8mm allen key bolt at the back of the pump housing that may be for draining.I never tried it, didn't see it first up, so just removed the lower rad hose and thermostat.
    You will need to change the engine oil too.
    Steve
    04 T5 auto 2.5L TDI

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