-
I'd think some intermittent wiring fault going by that.
Aren't there some earth points under the battery area(not sure).Check tightness/reseat
Can you get a code reader on it?
-
Thanks Rebuild. Done those checks a number of times now. Earth straps all seem clean and tight. No faults logged on v-checker. Charging at 14.4 volts running. Battery as per readings in this thread above. Again unless it is slightly under done.Took it for good drive this evening, no issues. Unless it is moisture ingress somewhere disturbing something. But has also occurred on hot dry days as well.
-
Check if there is any voltage drop between the direct battery negative terminal and the ground to the cluster, it should only be a few mV.
It might be a good idea to get a free battery check at battery world etc., to get a health check on the battery.
-
Thanks Mig. Will do re checking the battery. Re earth for Dash cluster, can you please advise where that is located, is it easy to access? I am also checking the battery voltages, plugging in my v-checker tool.
-
Hi all, an update, I ended up fitting a new Varta battery from Battery World. So far, no further gremlins, but will monitor. At rest new battery is about 12.6 to 12.7v after a bit of a quick drive, but does go down to about 12.3 to 12.3v overnight. Is that considered normal with the battery catering for basic dash functions or would that fall into the category of a parasitic drain?
Cheers, Scott
-
I spoke too soon. Turned on the ignition key, the dash clock, trip computer and odometer reset to zero. Back to the drawing board to isolate the issue. One would hope the new battery can be eliminated from the investigation.
-
If you know someone with a Rosstech to get any codes?
Some OBD readers do not get everything with VW
-
I'm in Kilsyth (3137) and have VCDS so can scan for you if you're out this way.
-
Thanks Guys. Yes my v-checker is likely very limited.
Hawk, thanks for your kind offer, I will PM you to schedule something that suits you. I am in Glen Iris.
I have checking for amp/milli amp drop putting a multimeter in series with the negative terminal, but nothing appears to show up, but I don't totally trust my old multimeter. Also been pulling fuses and reinstalling to see if that helps.
-
Based on my internet research 12.4V would mean it's about 80% charged.
From what I understand the battery gets a hit when you start and takes a while driving to get back up to 100%, lots of short drives tend to lower the charge over time so something like a CTEK charger is good to have around. When it's so low that you have to jump start it can take many many hours of driving to get back up to 100%.
My Golf was at 12.1V (50% - 60%) this morning before I started it (and 14V running), it doesn't get driven much and does go onto the CTEK charger regularly to keep it topped up. Started fine though and no issues with clocks or anything. I will put in on the charger tonight. Its first battery lasted nine years before giving up, this one is currently three years old.
My litmus test used to be when the power windows don't go auto up when the engine is switched off. When you hit the button and it tries to wind up all the way but does that safety stop and bounce back a little because it's detected something blocking the window. I figure the voltage is dropping too low and it mis-reads that as something in the way. That and you kind of get used to the speed the windows move and slower means less voltage so it goes on the charger.
But as I said, it's not driven much (still just under 50K on a 2011 build!) so the charger was a great investment.
