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fixed my love for the mk1. was sitting for a few weeks. had no motivation to fix the sticking throttle or the wipers that dont switch off. or clean it or put the wheels back on... till this weekend. was sick of watching england smash us in the cricket so got stuck into the mk1.. fixed the anoying problems gave it a good wash. and now i'm in love again.
Excuse me while I write some Search lines. :)
cv joint repair cv boot replacement how to remove Golf mk1 axle
So I am looking under the engine for an exhaust leak and I see the outer cv boot has torn on my mk1 Golf [ actually Scirocco - same thing :) ]
I am thinking I can drop the inner cv joint from the gearbox and work on it in car...... forget that.!
I duck out and buy the 3/4 inch 30 mm socket for that axle nut - turns out it isnt that tight [ could have used a 1/2 inch drive one ].
The local parts dealer has cv boot kit that look great quality for $16 . Super cheap has 30 mm socket 1/2 drive for $8.
I bought a really nice multi point 8mm drive for the cv joint bolts.
it took me about 3 hours of stuffing around - trying to find an easier way. It will take 2 hours next time as I will go straight to it.
I recommend degreasing everything around where you are going to work - I didnt. ... yuck....
1) car on the ground brick in front of tire - loosen 30 mm bolt on axle.
2) trolley jack under frame at pivot point for suspension.
3) scrape inside cv joint bolts using small screwdriver to enable getting tool bit right in there.
4) loosen wheel bolts but leave wheel on. Make sure axle nut is loose but on.
5) undo bolts around cv joint, using jack to raise wheel to turn for next bolt to top.
6) wrap plastic bag around this inner joint if it is ok.
7) remove wheel.
8 ) Mark the bolt head of the top of two bolts that attach the strut to the axle carrier.
9) Remove the top bolt. Put thin screw driver in the hole.
10) loosen the bottom bolt here and pull the top of the axle carrier section outwards. Remove axle nut completely , carefully move brake line out of gromet holder.
11) carefully remove screw driver - supporting axle assemble move out wards just a little and inner cv should fall clear of drive .
to be contd
12) stick screw driver back in the bolt hole again to support axle carrier. Tap axle through .
13) remove axle with ball joints.
14) spread some paper and get the cv boot kit, remove the torn boot.
15) now on the outer cv , there is a small circlip hidden in there amongst the grease.
this needs to be spread out and the stub axle with cv joint removed. Need circlip pliers that " open when sqeezed " . note which way the bevilled ring and washer go.
16) remove the washer and ring. put on the new boot [ with retaining clip if need be.]
17) wash out the outer cv repack with Cv grease , open circlip and put on stub axle.
push home firmly - ensure circlip goes in groove.
18 ) tighten boot retainers big and small.
19) repack some grease on the good cv inside the plastic bag , work into cv. Rebag the cv.
20) insert axle into hub and lightly screw 30mm nut on [ didnt see washer on mine]
21) move the axle carrier out ward to get inner cv into place and screw one bolt into cv drive, put some more more bolts on with plates.
22) replace all suspension parts - aligning top bolt as before.
23) replace all cv joint bolts. tighten as per workshop notes. [ can use gearbox to stop it from turning if one wheel is on ground.]
24) replace wheel , tighten axle nut to 240 nm. Check everything is restored & tightened.
This instruction is written as aid to work shop manual and all work must be done as per workshop manual instructions. I can not guarantee this instructions - please follow the workshop manual instructions .
:)
I have to do the other side cv boot yet. Oh well may be next weekend.
I did the relay mod for the headlights, just a single fused 30A between both of the low beams I considered to be adequate.
Heaps better light output, not like candles any more.
Replacing handbrake cables turned into replacing rear wheel bearings and all the **** that goes with them, which turned into me breaking my sump finally and getting it welded up!
Then came home and fixed up some cabin rattles that have been pissing me off.
Rear beam to chassis bushes replaced with polyurethane - tightened up the body roll nicely. Repaired heater wiring (bypassed a hot joint on wiring loom to fusebox plug)
Started cleaning the bay.
Painted rocker cover and carb. inlet thingo and replaced some dodgy hoses being used for fuel with legit rubber fuel hose and replaced plastic fittings with expensive copper ones.
Thinking of getting one of those ebay nickel/zinc/copper plating kits and really going crazy in there!
Pics when it's cleaner. Put in a new rocker cover gasket so there's actually a point in degreasing everything now!
Using this restored bay as inspiration, although I'm probably not game to delve into the depths this dude has.
http://uploader.meinwirt.com/files/80/PICT0243.JPG
That engine bay looks grouse, I really love a tidy engine bay.
thought about getting one of those ebay zinc kits too. would be a great way to make everything look OEM. that and a sandblast cabinet would be grouse!
I made this last night/this morning. It's rough but it works well.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...DSCF9501-1.jpg
I've been wanting to do some interior shots while rolling and maybe film me driving some twisty roads just for the fun of it. If I can work out my camera properly I'll be doing just that.
Seriously though, PM me tips on how to get decent photos out of this camera before I smash it :facepalm: lol
Put custom short shifter in, feels great :D