Thought I'd answer your PM here for everyone's benefit.
You can already save a fair bit of money on your list of items. You don't need the smaller radiator. It actually makes stuff-all (i.e. zero) difference to the performance to have the trumpets behind the radiator (I used to think it would until I tested the theory). The air rushes through at such velocity that there isn't enough time for it to suffer significant heat soak anyway. I've played around with that many different configurations so many times and it's just a waste of time and money. You're better off running a nice plenum. It mutes the noise down enough to avoid excessive attention, without being too tame, and makes air filtration easier. Just run a Cabby/GTI radiator.
You also don't absolutely need the swirl pot - mind you, relative to everything else, they're pretty cheap. An adjustable reg isn't necessary either. Use a basic 3 bar one and control your fuelling by choosing the correct injector size (looks like you already have these - what size are they?) and fuel mapping.
A lot of the stuff for ITB setups is for fashion only! If you're running a stock-ish motor, you don't need all the flash bits - it's just a waste of time and adds unreliability. You should use OE stuff wherever you can.
The best ECU setup by leagues is the one I sent you. It's OE-style and has the best harness you can possibly buy off the shelf. You need a good TPS and crank angle sensor - without both, it's all a waste of time!
The other thing to avoid is putting big cams in a stock head. But, bear in mind, you won't get much of a power gain with ITBs on a stock motor, as there's limited potential to induce more air. If you try to get around this with big cams, you can get the air in (the intake ports are actually too big as standard and should never be opened-up during a port job), but the 90deg bend in the exhaust ports just clogs up the cycle. A longer and deeper valve opening time helps on the exhaust side, but only inside a small RPM window, so you end up with a very narrow torque band.
With proper head work, the exhaust ports are refined to flow more evenly at different air speeds, so the torque curve flattens right out. With the big cams in a standard head, you just aggravate the crap 16v head design even more. Here is a cut of the 16v head for interest's sake (1.8 left, 2.0 right) - you can see the crap port angle design in reference to the combustion chamber:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...headcut2-1.jpg
Some of the better heads have material added to the bottom of the exhaust port and then removed from the top, which obviously lessens the angle to the combustion chamber. The header flanges are then modified and port matched to suit. If you look at a nice Honda or Opel 16v head, the chambers are more of a 'v'-shape so there is an angle on the valves. VW 16v valves are only slightly raked.
The best combo with a stock head is ABF or mild aftermarket cams - Schrick 260s etc.
With basic stage one head - 260/268.
With better head - 268/276
With really good head - you need more compression and shorter gearing and then the sky is the limit.
There are better cams (dBilas etc) which have more 'interesting' specs, but these are a whole different story on their own.
Hopefully this offers a good start anyway :)
