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Thread: Car Stalling when put into Drive - Auto 1.6L

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Scarborough
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    Car Stalling when put into Drive - Auto 1.6L

    Having some trouble with my car at the moment, for those who aren't familiar it's a 77 GLS, 1.6L engine with a 3 speed auto box, running a Solex Pict-5 carb.

    Dad took it for a wheel alignment on Friday while I was at work, when I went to pick it up it wouldn't idle. Found a couple of vacuum leaks and got them patched up, so now it will idle at about 1k while sitting.

    As soon as you put the car into Drive the idle drops and sputters until it stalls.

    You can drive it (although it feels as though it's bogging down) and you have to keep the revs up whenever you come to a stop or it stalls.

    If you sit with it idling in Park, put it in Drive and then back into Park before it stalls you can save it and the revs come back up before it dies.

    The fact that the car is idling at a grand makes me think it's not just a matter of raising the idle up? I'm not really sure what direction to look in. Anyone have any idea of what I should be looking at?

  2. #2
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    Mar 2013
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    May have just answered my own question, did a quick test on the coil and it's sending out weak orange spark and getting super hot. I'm thinking it's dead. I'll change it over and see if it fixes things.

    Currently installed is a Bosch GT40r, do they go ok in these models?

  3. #3
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    I have almost the same car 76' not had it long it does the same the guy I bought it of had got over the problem by adjusting the butterfly screw on the carb it idled about 2k lol I've since stripped the carb replaced the plugs and reset the timing it now idles at 1k but that stally thing still happens I think the gearbox has something to do with it. Like loading up the engine to much or something I'm going to swap it out eventually for a manual and a decent engine so can live with it at moment. I know my carb is rooted so I've not spent to much time on it. I do know older autos are suppost to have a higher idle to overcome this. Be interesting to see how you go with the coil. Good luck

  4. #4
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    Mar 2013
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    Well it's definitely running stronger with the new coil, had some issues with old frail wires so it took a lot longer than expected to hook it up after re-soldering all the connections. Unfortunately it's still stalling under load, though.

    I haven't played with the timing or idle again yet because somehow while wiring up the coil I've managed to stop my tacho from working. So I'll have to chase that tonight, it's probably a dislodged wire off the distributor or something. Anyways, hopefully I have a line on a guy selling a 5 speed with 90mm spindles which I'm really keen on picking up. I'll see what happens though as I'd really like to get this running again.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Gosford Central Coast NSW
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    the auto version of the carb is supposed to have some kind of response to the transmission in terms of whether its in neutral or in gear (I think). There are quite a few wires that go to the carb on the auto models compared to the manual ones.

    Make sure everything is hooked up?

    Idle should be something like 800rpm when warmed up.

    The GT-40 is fine, I have used them with success in the past.
    '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
    '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
    '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

  6. #6
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    Might be on to something there ! There are two circuits just below the TBar one for the reverse light and one for erm ! Something else ! Idle should be between 800 and 1025 depending on engine. However as the auto ages it lets pressure go and although it should be able to just bypass the fact that the engine is not pushing but at nearly 40 I think it's just worn the fact it still moves the car is awesom! Unfortunately knocking the idle up seems to be the answer. ( the carb has a cable that comes straight from the gearbo)

    So I know they talk to each other mechanically at least. The problem seems to be the trans putting to much stain on the engine either that or your car is running to rich and just conking out as a result. I have a new gates timing belt kit which I'm going to fit this week ( god knows when that was last changed) because belts do stretch then coil, leads and dizzy if that don't work I'm blaming the box.

  7. #7
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    Also I hate my golf ! Then I see it and am just lost for words ! Then I find them again ! And it's like what the @$&k are you serious?

  8. #8
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    Mar 2007
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    I have a mk1 auto and so does a good friend. i used to run a standard carb but have a weber now but both carbs i had similar issues with stalling. my base idle in park is 1400rpm when hot about 1100rpm cold once in drive once warm sits at 900rpm. i found this works fine with mine and ajusting timing i found critical also.

  9. #9
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    Jul 2013
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    Just sussed why I'm getting poor running on and of and weak spark ! There's a bit of play in the distributor shaft! So set the point it's ok warms up and starts doing strange things ! Wanting to stall etc! The play is causing the points to short out or open to far !!! I just put a new carb on it new leads and a new cap! I've also been through three timing lights lol wtf !!! Anyway found a distributor on eBay uk for £50 so I've opened up points a bit seems to have helped in the mean time.
    The engine has 160k on it and I'm sure this is the reason the car was put of the road ! After everybody and there dog had a go at fixing it !

  10. #10
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    Stalling was often a problem with the brake booster on mk1s.
    As well as a myriad of other things.

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