Overkill. I would not redline it for the first few thousand, but otherwise lots of flat foot.
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Overkill. I would not redline it for the first few thousand, but otherwise lots of flat foot.
I must say, this is a great idea for a thread. I don't think engine run-in has been discussed a lot before..... probably because nobody really has an opinion on the subject.
This subject tends to pop up at some stage in most threads for specific cars within this forum, although more when the model is new rather than ongoing, so if you were a keen searcher you could find them. To me there is a simple rule - don't baby it, don't overdrive it and just make sure you use most of the rev range regularly during the first 1,000 klm. Works for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by brad
:facepalm:Quote:
Originally Posted by GTi Crow
10char
Yes, the high loading periods helps grind off any high spots in the gear assemblies, quickly while the unloaded periods help the surrounding areas cool down so that the heat treatment isn't locally affected. Constant low loading will wear down these spots slowly so there is more localised heat build up with the possible damage to the heat treatment of the parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by pologti18t
A school friend's dad used to race touring cars (back in the '70s) and he said that the best engines and gearboxes were always the ones that they ran in at Bathurst.
Brad is just a bit sarcastic :P Every model section has a new car running in thread. :google:Quote:
Originally Posted by GTi Crow
I've been known to drop the synth out of engines, refill with dino, and after the run in period, switch to synth. I had a Honda Blackbird I bought with 3000km on it, and it had been run in the way I do it and motoman suggetst. But I put dino in it for 1000km anyway to complete the runin. Synth is just soooooo damn good it it's rediculous. One article in a magazine several years ago by a GP engine builder, the guy said that after testing rebuilt engines using synth, they found that after the normal run in period (a couple of hours on an engine dyno), the engine was NOT run it much at all. Some of the machining marks they wanted to get red of for racing were still present. So, under VERY carefully controlled conditions, they began to do the run in with dino, then the best synth for racing.
Oh, in case somebody needs to ask : Dino = dinosaur = out of the ground, refined, additive package.
You used to be able to buy 'running in' oil that was a premium base stock oil with no additive package at all to run for the first 500 - 1000km for just that reason - It was considered that the additives made the running in longer.
As an aside, a mechanic freind believes that a gently run modern motorcyle engine could take up to 10,000km to completely run in on synth - he has some very gentle riders for customers, who don't believe you should run over 4000rpm....... Why would they put the red ling at 14,000 if they didn't want you to go there? Huh?
This topic pops up on almost all car forums at some stage in another. My 2 cents though.
Just drive normal first 1000 km's, then after that post first service give her some stick ... I dont know why it would be any harder than that.
Some car enthusiasts take this topic to such an enth degree its borderline OCD, taking into consideration I would want to keep my car in tip top shape too. Just no need to get too paranoid about it.
Ignore all the conjecture being thrown around this thread.
You *need* to give your car properly timed full throttle high-rpm bursts as part of the run in to ensure the piston rings seal properly.
This is the bible you should use: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
I don't see how people are comparing methods... Someone does it one way, the car works well, so that must have been the right way? You could likely do close to the opposite in an identical car, I wonder who could pick the difference?