Sams Polo 3.0

[Sydneykid]

Which track day provider do you mean? Anyone really. Depends mostly on a favourable date but mostly Trackschool.
If you mean people, mostly 2 guys from the hillclimb comps ( best mate and Andrew from on here with the vette) and another mate who’s building up his IS300 2J. Last time out I went to Wakefield with James Fleet from MIA engines. He runs a historic class 240Z and some guys he knew that have HQ’s.
Gary IPRA didn’t run at SMSP on the supercar weekend did it?

I thought it might be Trackschool.

IP are running this weekend, Production Cars was last weekend and Sports Cars the weekend before.

Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

Cool. Call me if you need to sell some surplus tyres!!

[Sydneykid]

Cool. Call me if you need to sell some surplus tyres!!

There will be left overs, fronts and rears, guaranteed.

Cheers
Gary

[metalhead]

We have been running the same Astra pump in one of the cars for 4 years, never had an issue with it, what is the problem?

Cheers
Gary

Hey Gary, not to derail Sam's thread too much, but I've had problems with the assist not keeping up (cutting in and out) when loading up the steering (sawing at the wheel if I'm honest - but that's what I've found to be needed to be quick in the car and stay ahead of what is a pretty loose car with lots of power). Makes it very difficult to drive when it's not consistent. Not sure if it's a flow issue or an electrical one - I did find some issues with the electrical connections this past weekend that seemed to make an improvement when rectified. I've got a few things to chase down. It's frustrating though, because I can't replicate it except on the track. I did find with some research that apparently they need a specific fluid, which I didn't have, but I have fixed that now and it hasn't solved the issue. Whether I damaged the pump in the meantime or not I'm not sure? I do have both a power steering cooler and a pressure bypass valve (to reduce full assist) in the circuit, I think I need to bypass both and see if that improves the problem.

[Sydneykid]

Hey Gary, not to derail Sam's thread too much, but I've had problems with the assist not keeping up (cutting in and out) when loading up the steering (sawing at the wheel if I'm honest - but that's what I've found to be needed to be quick in the car and stay ahead of what is a pretty loose car with lots of power). Makes it very difficult to drive when it's not consistent. Not sure if it's a flow issue or an electrical one - I did find some issues with the electrical connections this past weekend that seemed to make an improvement when rectified. I've got a few things to chase down. It's frustrating though, because I can't replicate it except on the track. I did find with some research that apparently they need a specific fluid, which I didn't have, but I have fixed that now and it hasn't solved the issue. Whether I damaged the pump in the meantime or not I'm not sure? I do have both a power steering cooler and a pressure bypass valve (to reduce full assist) in the circuit, I think I need to bypass both and see if that improves the problem.

Interesting, we don't run a cooler or a bypass valve, straight from pump to rack and return, never had a pressure drop off. It does get a pretty good workout on the warm up laps. Unlikely that any power steering fluid would cause an issue, FWIW we use Nulon Synthetic. Maybe give the simple plumbing a go and see if that works.

Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

my precious..... built bottom end is finally in my garage. The bottom end (was out of my first car) was pristine. The rings, ring lands, conrod and main bearings etc were all in top notch condition. The bearings in particular barely had any wear on them. Bores were nice and round and consistent diameter. So was a good base to build up from. Didn't end up being a slap together though which broke the budget a fair bit. Was always a bit bummed to have gotten it built rather than doing it myself but felt a bit vindicated when a few issues cropped up. eg if I'd plasti-gauged the conrod big end bearings, everything would have looked fine but at the joint there was too much crush where the bearings come together which I probably wouldn't have picked up on. So the conrod bearings needed resizing and are bang on which justified getting it done by a proper engine builder right there. The main bearings also were between sizes so a new set of Glycos were ordered to get the specs he wanted which added up as well. Other things went great though - the forged rods were bang on with balancing and identical weights to the gram and didn't need any fetling on the small ends with the Audi S3 pistons. But its all done now and i'll just have to find the dollars to get the Supertech exhaust valves fitted, afford some ARP head bolts or studs, and then I can get the head on myself and fit up all the ancillaries, gearbox and engine loom before swinging it back in. Considering the budget unfortunately it'll probably have to run with my existing turbo for a bit but the pro of that is that it'll have a turn key tune in it for a good prompt run in. A long way to go from here but I'm a happy boy nonetheless.

[HaydEn]

Great day!

Still 1.8 capacity? Just fresh with less bendy rods?


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[sambb]

yep 1781cc. S3 pistons with ceramic crown coating and skirt coating, china x-beam forged rods (bar-tek knock offs) 20x144 , ARP200 rod bolts, OEM big end bearings, glyco main bearings and OE main bolts and a baffled sump by me.

Head will be a brand new factory big port. Ill probably stick with its brand spankers non-VVT fixed cam chain tensioner, cat cams pulley, the supertech black nitrided exhaust valves. I have a set of stock head bolts and I'm really in two minds if I even need ARP head bolts or studs at the sub 300hp power level i'll be at.
I'll also probably have to graft a custom plenum onto that AGU large port mani I bought off you as that angle at the throttle body aims straight into the headlight. Or there's this flange from an ADR that might be useful for getting me around that bend but I don't really want to add capacity to the plenum if I don't have to.

Other than that i'll probably ditch the air con and run the alternator on a custom bracket where the AC compressor normally is. I already have 2/1/4 inch IC piping from IC to plenum but I'd like to get it all out to 2/1/4 inch from turbo to IC as well.
Just a reliability build that'll cope if I get a K04-064 on it one day and will survive on the track.

[sambb]

oh and a red cam cover

[h100vw]

I have stock head bolts, so do all the L280 cars I have tuned. I think you'll be good under 300. Also consider that there's modified mk6rs on stock bolts with the like s of TTE 420s etc