Sams Polo 3.0

[sambb]

I'm a 5 speed box so at turn 1 was basically giving the brakes a little wiff at the 200m board as a settler, then finding a low throttle percent on turn in that I could carry towards the apex. I was always feeding it in from the apex. As the day went on I was staying a tad further and further at full throttle before lifting for the entry.
I 'll go back through your previous posts re Hawk pads as the fronts are down a bit now so i'll do them soon.
I was in heaven through turns 4 and 5. Stringing them together is just bliss when you have the car on the limit and hit all your marks. Turn 6 was a difficult one for me, but late apexing around corporate hill and down to the hairpin was really sweet too. Those were the only parts where I could close pretty positively on Andrew in his Vette if I got it all right, but then it was see you later for any straighter faster stuff.
So glad I did the droplink to wishbone mod. RE what you said about getting off the hairpin well, I was able to turn in in 2nd gear and quite easily hold the wheel with one hand, other hand at the ready to just before the apex and then grab third and get hard on the accelerator for the exit nice and early. Pre-drop link mod I would have been struggling to do that with the forces coming back at me through the steering wheel.
A 1:55 is definitely something to build on because I know that with some setup changes I'll be able to find lots of time at turn 1 and especially turn 2 where I was frankly lost. I'll be doing an 20% E85 tune too which will hopefully allow a bit more timing and get me a few more horsies for down the straight.
You know where to find me once there are retired tyres Gary!!

[sambb]

So the IPRA 2 Litre guys are doing 1:42's. Did I read that right? Farrk. Apexing turn 1 at 190kph. Hmm I'm trying to picture being in that spot in my car doing the speed I was doing on the straight. Scary picture!

[Sydneykid]

So the IPRA 2 Litre guys are doing 1:42's. Did I read that right? Farrk. Apexing turn 1 at 190kph. Hmm I'm trying to picture being in that spot in my car doing the speed I was doing on the straight. Scary picture!

2020 Motorsport Australia NSW Motor Race Championship Rd 3
Sydney Motorsport Park Gardner
2020 MA NSW Improved Production U2L Championship-Qualifying
Qualifying Q2 15 Mins

Scheduled Start 00:02
Page 1 Issue 1
Start Sat Aug 01 08:28
Elapsed Time 15:02

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________
Pos Car Competitor/Team Driver Vehicle Cap CL Laps Fastest...Lap Gap

1 16 JOHNO'S AUTO ELECTRICAL Jason Hendy (NSW) Nissan 200SX 1998 4 3 1:41.3362*
2 96 Mike Hughes Finance Kurt Macready (NSW) Nissan silvia 1998 6 6 1:41.9097 0:00.5735
3 44 Nulon Products Australia Justin Mcclintock (NSW) Honda / Civic 1998 3 3 1:42.8045 0:01.4683
4 4 Sponsor wanted Bob Jowett (NSW) Honda Civic 2000 3 3 1:43.6140 0:02.2778
5 30 SMSF Graham Bohm (NSW) Honda Civic EG 2000 6 5 1:45.8832 0:04.5470
6 54 WILDRIDGE FABRICATIONS Craig Wildridge (NSW) Ford Escort 1998 6 5 1:47.2190 0:05.8828
7 43 Sprintparts Mark Larmour (NSW) Renault Clio Sport 1998 6 4 1:48.1780 0:06.8418
8 5 TRACKSCHOOL / V8HOTLAPS John Boston (NSW) Hyundai Lantra 1998 4 4 1:49.0807 0:07.7445
9 19 Sprintparts Matthew Larmour (NSW) Mitsubishi Mirage Cy 1597 3 3 1:50.3859 0:09.0497
10 55 Nova air & Electrical / Hayman Michael Sherwell (NSW) toyota 86 1999 7 7 1:50.5805 0:09.2443
11 42 Sprintparts Philip Larmour (NSW) Honda Integra Type R 1798 7 7 1:51.7307 0:10.3945
12 37 WILDRIDGE FABRICATIONS Matthew Wildridge (NSW) Ford Escort 1998 7 4 1:52.2268 0:10.8906
13 93 Van Vorst Racing Joshua Van Vorst (NSW) Toyota Corolla Seca 1587 6 4 1:53.4118 0:12.0756
14 90 R Berson Robert Berson (NSW) Ford Escort Mk2 1988 7 6 1:54.3281 0:12.9919
15 127 D Haines David Haines (NSW) Toyota AE101 1587 6 5 1:59.2487 0:17.9125
16 351 L Murray Liam Murray (NSW) Suzuki Swift 1500 5 5 1:59.3125 0:17.9763
41 Industrie Clothing Ryan Jagger (NSW) Holden Barina 1934
29 Brad Piggott Brad Piggott (NSW) Toyota Corolla 1800

Fastest Lap Av.Speed Is 140kph, 130% Of First 1 Is 2:11.7371
R=under lap record by greatest margin, r=under lap record, *=fastest lap time
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________
Issue# 1 - Printed Sat Aug 01 08:57:35 2020 Timing System By NATSOFT (03)63431311 Page not found | Natsoft® Accounting Software & IT Specialists Tasmania & Dorian DATA-1
NSW & ARDC Timing Crew - Chief: David Douglas


Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

I'd be interested to see what that more production based Cooltech Industries Polo Gti that was at Wakefield when you were there does.

[sambb]

Another thing - turbo bolts came loose. Ive now tried:
- standard OEM hex heads at spec torque
- standard at as tight as I could get them torque
- 12.9 tensile cap heads with OE washers
- 12.9's with wide diameter nordlocks
- the car I just bought had OE bolts that were bridged to one another and tack welded - gasket was still 95% burnt through.
-12.9's with standard diameter nordlocks on top of OE washers.

This last iteration is what came undone again and that was with two braces running from the block to support the turbo. I dont think the nordlocks are working properly because they dont seem to be able to grip into the manifold casting which is what is needed to stop the bolt backing out. Other option now might be some drop in studs (from above) with headstud-like finer nuts that you could get a smaller socket onto, and then you could really crank on them. Important to be able to remove the studs though otherwise you'd never be able to get the exhaust mani off without removing the turbo.

[Sydneykid]

Skyline turbo's also come loose, I use studs, nuts and lock wire.



Cheers
Gary

[HaydEn]

I used 10.9 inhex with a spring and flat washer torqued to 65nm.

Hadn’t backed off torque in over 12 months. Granted no track work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sambb]

Yep thinking i'll source some studs. Its crazy that it cant last 25 laps when I'd re tightened them the night before. Or maybe the bolts need to go in the oven before being installed into a cold hot side so that they really clamp down as they cool.

So my front pads are getting low. I had a look at this Hawk pads graph:



Now based on the graph ad what you'd said Gary I'd have gone for Hawk Blacks. Problem is though they only seem to do the HPS 5.0 and the HP+ for the TT brakes that are in my car. Blacks dont seem to come up in any of their listings. I think the HP+ will be the go but before I take the plunge are there any other brands that you could recommend that might have something if you think HP+ isnt the right way to go. Basically something better than the DS3000's that I've had in there?

Also The new car has titanium backing plate/shims that go between the caliper piston and the pads backing plate. I assume that is to stop heat transfer to the fluid, but titanium is soft and I was thinking compressible? Do you reckon there will be any real world benefit to keeping them and perhaps I'd gain more RE our feedback-less pedals by having the piston act directly on the pad?

[Sydneykid]

Titanium has no real world elasticity, so once there is the compression from the piston/arm shapes there shouldn't be any contribution to pedal "sponginess". I have used stainless steel shims in the past as a heat barrier, OE callipers often have them as well. Effect is minimal so I wouldn't worry about using them. They do sometimes help with pad "squeal" so I wouldn't throw them out just in case.

On the Evo (I have checked with Matt) the only negative he found with HPS was dust and the very first stop on a cold morning needed to be carefully executed. On the track he was very happy with them. HPS 5.0 are supposed to be less dusty than the original HPS. My view, HPS would be better for street and hillclimbs, HP+ would be OK for street and much better for track days.

You might want to try contacting Hawk, they may be able to recommend a pad in Black that is the same backer shape, or close enough without mods, or very close so that I can cut it to shape for you with the band saw.


Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

Thanks Gary. Backing plates will stay then. Yeah I’ll see what alternatives I can find in the blacks. The effort seems like it’d be worth it. Going by the graph it just looks to be the ‘does all’ compound - no cold temp issues yet does everything and more at the other end compared to HP+ and even DTC-15.