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Thread: Sams Polo 3.0

  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    Thanks Gary. Backing plates will stay then. Yeah I’ll see what alternatives I can find in the blacks. The effort seems like it’d be worth it. Going by the graph it just looks to be the ‘does all’ compound - no cold temp issues yet does everything and more at the other end compared to HP+ and even DTC-15.
    As I mentioned, Blacks are my go to pad, not only are the "jack of all trades" they are also always available and very cost effective.

    Cheers
    Gary
    Polo GTi 2017, Golf Mk7 110TSI Highline, Golf Mk7.5 R, Skyline R32GTST, Stagea RS4,

  2. #152
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    Sams Polo 3.0-img_1770-jpg
    A bit of a short pour on getting the E85 to the top line, but I'd be calling this United E85 at close to E90+ yeah? If so then my local United will hopefully be a good local source of E85.
    Petrol 98 RON tune is more or less finished now. Just need to sort the launch control but i'll fill a few 20% E85 containers for some ethanol blend tuning. Apparently there's plenty of head room in the 550cc injectors without having to move the fuel pressure from 3 bar. So hopefully it wasnt near MBT on the petrol tune and the ethanol blend will allow us to get some more timing into it!

  3. #153
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    Nice, I've not seen 90%, is that a United close to your home or work?

    Try the E20 and see who much timing you can add. If you think there is more to be had and you have injector room then try E25, it's your mix so you can choose what you run.

    Cheers
    Gary
    Polo GTi 2017, Golf Mk7 110TSI Highline, Golf Mk7.5 R, Skyline R32GTST, Stagea RS4,

  4. #154
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    Thats Dee Why, Pittwater Rd, 5 mins from home.

  5. #155
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    Update on the cars ongoing engine tuning. I now have active VVT!! So for those who aren't familiar with the BJX's VVT system, you basically have the cam belt driving the exhaust pulley. But inside/under the cam cover on the other side of the engine you have a cam chain that links the exhaust cam to the inlet cam. Between those you have a cam chain tensioner that uses oil pressure to change the relationship of the cams to one another.........when the solenoid activates it.
    So in the BJX the VVT is only used at cold start. When the VVT activates the inlet cam is advanced with the idea being it'll fire up the cat converter (with the aid of the airblast into the exhaust ports from the SAI) to operating temp as fast as possible.
    Something like the Audi S3's BAM engine though uses the VVT not only in this way but also to enhance performance by advancing the inlet between roughly 1500-4200rpm before switching it back to the retarded position that ours ALWAYS runs in.
    like below
    Sams Polo 3.0-dynamic-vvt-pngSams Polo 3.0-1-8tstock_intake_cam_timing-jpg

    So more or less mine now operates like the Audi's do. The remote tuner guy in the UK that I use has set it up based on an rpm/load type map. We are still playing with where to switch it in but its close now and makes a massive difference. In VCDS by watching groups 090 and 091 you can see the cam moving from 0.0 crank degrees to 20 crank degrees advanced down low, holding it there across the torque hump, and then retarding back to the resting retarded inlet cam position above 4200'ish rpm. You can only exploit the cam VVT in an on/off fashion. Its not an infinitely variable cam phaser, its a simple 2 position set up. I have seen where guys have tried PWM feeds onto the solenoid to move it progressively but within the time period of the thread I was reading they cooked the solenoid which isnt designed to be bombarded with different frequencies.
    So VVT is commonly used as a way to kick start bigger or slow to spool turbos. If say you had a fixed timing 1.8T 20V like an AGU you might advance both cams with an adjustable pulley to do the same. This way lets you have the best of both worlds in that you can advance early to shift the front of the torque curve down but not loose out on the top end.
    While it may be more useful at bringing a big turbo into play earlier it definitely works some magic even on the small K04-001. While we didnt see any leaps in the MAF G/s traces, where it can be felt is when you move from light loads to bigger throttle % coming off tight corners and just general throttle response is much sharper. There are also funny situations eg when you give it a boot full and get it up on boost at the foot of a long hill but then you find you can climb the hill easily and the car hovers around atmospheric on the boost gauge. Well in that instance there seems to be sufficient load% for the cam to stay advanced and the car is just poised ready to leap back onto boost, no down change required at all. It feels totally different. I was worried that it would have the effect of turning an already snapppy turbo into a K03s style light switch but it hasn't. Its more about enhanced throttle response in those transient sort of conditions when you are rolling in and out of the throttle. Unreal.

  6. #156
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    Oh and the cold start now runs opposite to OEM. The cam is not advanced at all at cold start. Cold start VVt has been disabled. It stays in the retarded base position. It fires to life perfectly and the tune doesnt hold revs at 1200 rpm like the stock cars. It just holds 1000rpm for a bit then drops into its normal idle and is fine. Firing the car into life without the high revs and the inlet cam advance also makes it way quieter. The racket it used to make doing that was pretty ugly. Its so much quieter now.

  7. #157
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    Baffled sump:

    So after sourcing some hand drawn templates from a guy in the UK, I managed to transfer them onto some aluminium and cut them out. They needed plenty of fettling with the file to get them to slot together and fit the sumps contours but seem pretty close. I'll need to take a little bit out of one of the vertical baffles so that the windage tray will fit down into the baffles but apart from that they are ready to be welded.
    My question concerns the ports that allow transfer of oil laterally to/from the oil pickup area. I've cut the holes for them and now have to decide do I just keep them open OR do I fit doors over them to maximise the holding power of the baffles against any lateral flow of oil.
    I was all for the latter until I realised that the almost all the oil returns of the engine flow into the oil pickup cell created by the baffles. The windage tray has ports that fit up into some of the galleries that guide oil into a shute below the windage tray that drops the oil straight into the vicinity of the pickup and also most of any drip down from above will collect on the top of the tray which directs it there too. The turbos oil return (most abused oil in the engine probably) goes into the pickups new 'pot' too.
    So basically my worry is that if I do use doors on the oil pickups baffles, wont I just be trapping 100% of the engines hot oil return against the pickup? I understand that baffle doors are the best to prevent oil starvation in long lateral G corners, but I'm now wondering if open port baffles will do 80% of that anyway but with the upshot of at least allowing some colder oil from the sides of the sump to mix with the hot stuff in the pickups pot.
    Am I worried about nothing and should just go ahead with the doors despite it pretty much exclusively sucking hot/used oil or run sans doors and hope for better mixed oil being drawn upon??
    Sams Polo 3.0-img_1812-jpgSams Polo 3.0-img_1813-jpgSams Polo 3.0-img_1814-jpgSams Polo 3.0-turbo-return-jpgSams Polo 3.0-gallery-return-jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sams Polo 3.0-img_1815-jpg   Sams Polo 3.0-img_1816-jpg  


  8. #158
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    also changed the cars front end appearance. Eddys' bonnet mods although good for cooling allowed rain water straight onto the injector harness and also down the spark plug holes. That'd be fine if it was a rarely used track only car but being a daily I needed something less cop magnety and waterproof! The original bonnet will go under the house for if the car ever becomes track only.
    So I got the spare bonnet sprayed gloss black and ditched the VW insignia/GTi grille for a blanked slat type grille that matches the lower grille and the fog surrounds better. Now looks very non-descript and sleeper'ish, and is rain proof! which is what I was after.
    Sams Polo 3.0-img_1809-jpgSams Polo 3.0-img_1811-jpgSams Polo 3.0-img_1801[1]-jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sams Polo 3.0-img_1800[1]-jpg  

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    Baffled sump:

    So after sourcing some hand drawn templates from a guy in the UK, I managed to transfer them onto some aluminium and cut them out. They needed plenty of fettling with the file to get them to slot together and fit the sumps contours but seem pretty close. I'll need to take a little bit out of one of the vertical baffles so that the windage tray will fit down into the baffles but apart from that they are ready to be welded.
    My question concerns the ports that allow transfer of oil laterally to/from the oil pickup area. I've cut the holes for them and now have to decide do I just keep them open OR do I fit doors over them to maximise the holding power of the baffles against any lateral flow of oil.
    I was all for the latter until I realised that the almost all the oil returns of the engine flow into the oil pickup cell created by the baffles. The windage tray has ports that fit up into some of the galleries that guide oil into a shute below the windage tray that drops the oil straight into the vicinity of the pickup and also most of any drip down from above will collect on the top of the tray which directs it there too. The turbos oil return (most abused oil in the engine probably) goes into the pickups new 'pot' too.
    So basically my worry is that if I do use doors on the oil pickups baffles, wont I just be trapping 100% of the engines hot oil return against the pickup? I understand that baffle doors are the best to prevent oil starvation in long lateral G corners, but I'm now wondering if open port baffles will do 80% of that anyway but with the upshot of at least allowing some colder oil from the sides of the sump to mix with the hot stuff in the pickups pot.
    Am I worried about nothing and should just go ahead with the doors despite it pretty much exclusively sucking hot/used oil or run sans doors and hope for better mixed oil being drawn upon??
    You have an oil cooler so I wouldn't be concerned, plus the temperature difference in the sump is negligible anyway. One way doors are a big advantage, just do it.

    Cheers
    Gary
    Polo GTi 2017, Golf Mk7 110TSI Highline, Golf Mk7.5 R, Skyline R32GTST, Stagea RS4,

  10. #160
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    enough said then. Just didnt want to slap it on and find that my backyard attempt at a baffled sump actually lead to my engines death rather than prevented it.
    thanks

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