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Thread: Polo GTI 9n3 $8k goodies

  1. #21
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    Yep that kit will do it! Pretty good value actually.

  2. #22
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    BAM Engine code, so Audi S3 8L chassis. Those have the reverse manifold allowing for the single pass. Or.. you run your chargepipe something like this: K03 charge pipe - Trackslag

    For an AGU head it's good if you're going to be running big power 500hp+ and aiming to build the head. I've got one sitting in the garage(courtesy of Gavin) waiting to swap down to a small port(also courtesy of Gavin lol) because it just flows way better. Anyway idea is to run VVT as Sam said, because it can be used and is useful for a faster spool. Cams, for me will be from a AGN engine which is NA, having a different profile to the turbo'd engines. Also Ferrera exhaust valves compare to Supertech as the more I read about their failure styles I'd get the Ferrera.
    ALSO aftermarket intake manifolds are a butt to get nowadays and cost quite a bit, or you have to wait a good while for the next batch to be made. Phenolic spacers, again you have to match with the intake manifold and head. So small port to small port on the current setup. I've got a 034 one which does the job honestly...

    Powerflex BLACK is just constant vibration of the entire car because they're absolutely solid bushings, would not recommend being a daily.
    Get the bits Sam suggested, lot better. And yeah absolute ass doing the rear bush for the front control arm, unless you have the tool to push it out!
    That oil kit looks o.k.-ish.. give it a shot I guess
    I've just got to make up some lines for my set, and should be gold hehe

    Search Demontweeks or AwesomeGTI for the B8's, tough to get them from anywhere else right now. The more expensive options will always be on the market compared to the budget friendly options unfortunately...
    Hope this helps a bit

  3. #23
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  4. #24
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  5. #25
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  6. #26
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    On turbo sizing, from someone who has been building, driving and racing turbocharged cars for over 30 years, don't be talked into a turbo that is a larger size than you need for your purposes. I have seen many people have a HP target that is way above suitable for their usage patterns. They are always happy at first and show the dyno graph around for the everyone to see, then after a few months I see their car for sale. Why, because the HP was good to brag about but the driving experience was way below their requirements. Plus they very rarely get back more than half what they spent and never remotely cover their time.

    My best suggestion, think very carefully about what you really want to user the car for, every day driver, weekend cruiser, track days, drag racing, roll racing, hillclimbs, etc. Then look at the budget required to achieve that objective. There are plenty on here more than happy to help, with lots of answers, but you need to ask the right questions.

    Cheers
    Gary
    Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

  7. #27
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    Aug 2021
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    Yeah some great suggestions and yeah I saw the black bushes aren't recommended for daily... This car will be a daily and possibly roll racing for fun if I want to get it to a track... Turbo pick is the hardest for me right now... I want something fun to drive as a daily which puts me in the gt28 category but I want to be able to have those highway blasts too which gt30 is much more suited.... Maybe I need 2 polos🤣🤣 one with the gt28 for daily responsiveness and one with a gt35 for all out crazy! 👌

    Honestly this will be a complete daily I can't see myself running around on tracks anytime soon.... Does anyone know where full boost (say 18-19psi) would be for the gtx2871r vs the gtx3071r without touching the head... Budget won't allow me to at this stage now with the suspension mods. And safe rpm level for our stock heads. I need this to be completely reliable so if stock or even under redline is recommended that's what I'll do...

    Also how do our gearboxes handle in terms of tq? Are they strong?

    And drive shafts?? Don't want to be snapping **** and have the car off the road too many time for too long

  8. #28
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    Boxes are pretty tough. The weak spot in them after you power up is the ring gear to diff rivets. They can flog out and let go. If you wavetrac it (it'll be the best diff for a daily for sure) you'll be taking care of that though as they come with ARP's.
    Driveshafts are pretty robust too. I havent run big power in my car but I've done plenty of hillclimbs/sprint events (lots of tyre warming and start line launches) and am getting onto the circuits more and more and I havent damaged a shaft yet. I've had one CV get a bit noisy but thats about it.
    RE rev reliability on the head, mine has seen 7000rpm plenty of times on down shifts on the track and the same accidentally during tyre warming burn outs. I dont think I've finished an event where the 'warranty void - engine rev limit exceeded' fault hasnt appeared in the fault codes. One engine was treated that way from 26,000km till 94,000km. The other from 100,000 - 160,000km. Both without fault. Thats revs though. Bigger turbos than what I run with the pressures and temps that go along with that will introduce heat into that equation and probably change things and I dont have experience in that area. The only head dramas I've had are that the exhaust stem seals can cook and cause some oil leaks there. Thats why if you do get a spare head once over'd by a head shop it'd be a good idea to get viton exhaust stem seals and valve guides done as they'll be close to shot. As for bottom ends all my engines have solid compression. The 160,000km engine had a proper leak down last year and was like a built one.
    Yeah re turbo selection dont forget its only an 1100kg car, not far off a suzuki swift. That'll make it very quick with a smaller turbo than you think. Being light and FWD it'll get very difficult to get any power down on street tyres on the road with a 3071R. At that size you'd have to redo fuel lines maybe? and I do remember Louis had to stuff around moving engine mounts forward just to fit the thing in against the firewall. I'm not sure if he had to turf his A/C as all those pipes run back there but it might be worth checking. Its dump ran right against things like the master cylinder so on the reliability side it'd be struggling not to cook everything its wedged in against.

  9. #29
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    Aug 2021
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    Yeah right! So there built pretty tough then!

    Yeah I'm leaning more and more towards wavetrac.. thinking about getting a spare box and doing what needs to that one then I can swap out and do the smf conversion with clutch all in one hit. What's the servicing like on these?

    I'm leaning more and more towards the gt28 just due to daily drivability and fitment... Looking at the space in there I didn't think the 30 would fit very easily... I was planning to just get the shop to do an exhaust mani and turbo back and while in there fit it all up and tune but I still need to talk to them and see if there happy to do that work for me... I'll install the intercooler, suspension parts, clutch and box with lsd and oil cooler... that that'll be my budget I think.. yeah they are very light which was the main reason of choice. I wanted an 1100kg 1.6-2.0l turbo like I was originally going to turbo a d16 civic... This is just a lot nicer and more creature comforts👌

  10. #30
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    Yep pretty tough......except for the whimpy sintered rods.
    if you go garret you can get off the shelf oil/ water lines, exhaust mani, dump top sections virtually in kit form. Yeah I reckon a 2860RS would be awesome. It is still only 1781cc.

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