0-100km/h time with APR Stage 1 tune?

btw are you using 98 Octane petrol?

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Originally Posted by noone

V-Tune isnt compatible with our Tune / ECU.

Lemmiwinks or Custom Settings (the CC version) allows some control over a different bank of settings to what the tuners use. From what I know, Gavin does some tuning in these areas when tweaking a tune.

I use a ebay USB-Obd port adapter which works fine.

There are a number of threads on Vortex or if you know how to use Google to search VWW, you should be able to find my posts on it previously.

How you use it properly is to take logs of your 3rd gear pulls, watch the timing pull and add a little extra timing (position in the piston cycle when detonation occurs) to get more power. From memory you want to keep the timing pull under 4, across the board.

Please don't consider this a guide or recomendation, do it at your own risk and after reading up.

For me, I run about 3 degrees advancement in timing over the APR tune which to me offers more torque, probably at the expense of top end power.

Adding timing adds heat. The old school way was to add timing until you had detonation, then pull it back a little. With the sophisicaltion of our modern ECU's over the early ones for 1.8t's, the knock sensors are able to work around you, pulling out timing here and there if the sensors are not happy. As the APR tune is pretty mild / safe, I don't see the issue with it IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME & LOG. No point going in blind, if you try to add too much the ECU will pull more timing than you added making the power less linear and more likely to go into a protection power cut.

As for how fast your car is, why its not faster, etc, its really hard to say without being in it. Maybe check with your tuner you def got the Version 2 of the tune, maybe take it to them, express your concerns and see if they can help log or they can take it around the block, see if there is anything obvious. There are so many small things that could be restricting a little power (something exhaust related, a sensor, N75, Diverter, Intake restriction, fuel delivery, boost leak (you mention 16/17 PSI which isn't high). Try doing a pull in 5th gear, see what the boost levels at, I would expect a little higher.

How many K's? Was it a hot day? The car feels torquier when its cold and dry.

Lots of little places you could be robbed of power, making sure your car is performing 100% takes money or effort, I try but it does tire sometimes.

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Thank! Just ordered a VAGCOM cable off ebay, it should arrive in 2 week's time, will have some fun with it... :-)

Does the ECU assign different boost levels for different gears? It seems I hit higher boost in 1st gear all the time? Sometimes it spikes at around 20-22Psi in first... will do a proper logging once VAGCOM cable received

I have previously raised in another thread that straight after I got my car fully tuned (from the 6 hour trial), it felt less powerful than the trial tune, but I thought it was just "placebo effect" , but now it looks like it wasn't placebo after all

I just did another run, it was 25 degrees outside, this time I recorded 7.3s. The car has 54,000Km. It was done 600m off sea level (Canberra), where air density is about 3% thinner than sea level, does it really affect the power that much?

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Originally Posted by Ryan_R

btw are you using 98 Octane petrol?

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Yep, BP Ultimate 98, have also tried Shell 98, it ran like crap on shell, absolute no power and the turbo took its sweet time to spool up

I've always found BP Ultimate the best for power, Shell crap and Vortex 98 a good in betweener.
I find I get higher boost in 2nd and 3rd than 1st gear. I figure it's because the engine 'sees' less load in 1st. Similar to when you rev it at idle, no load, no boost.

you should show more boost in a higher gear as there is more time for the boost pressure to grow, in 1st its over so quickly.

lots of variables, could be a boost leak, could be a dodgy component, could be an overly sensitive knock sensor retarding timing. For me, logging or having someone log is really the only good way to know whats happening, it wont answer all your qns, but certainly does arm you with a lot more info.

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Originally Posted by noone

you should show more boost in a higher gear as there is more time for the boost pressure to grow, in 1st its over so quickly.

lots of variables, could be a boost leak, could be a dodgy component, could be an overly sensitive knock sensor retarding timing. For me, logging or having someone log is really the only good way to know whats happening, it wont answer all your qns, but certainly does arm you with a lot more info.

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Thanks for your advice.

I just did a 5th gear pull, starting from 2,500RPM, as you can see from the graph below, it took about 4 seconds to reach top boost of 17.73 PSI, then it dropped a bit and fluctuated between 15.44 and 16.86 PSI. Does it mean I have a boost leak?

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...0ef328_b-1.jpg

I once had a leak in my intake hose and it was extremely audible (big wooshing sound)

When I was changing my spark plugs a couple of weeks back, I noticed the copper coating inside my coil packs have worn off:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...39a7a7_b-1.jpg

does this affect my power output significantly? as long as there is still electrical contact, it shouldn't matter that much, right?

I don't understand why VW would electrolyse copper onto plastic, it simple does not last, given the operating environment.... :dunno:

Nothing to do with your power.

That boost graph doesn't mean much either without knowing what the ECU requested. Did you do the graph from the bluetooth OBD transmitter?

Wait until you get the lead, it's far better for doing this sort of thing.
A better milestone for performance would be to do runs in a single gear from 70-110kmh or whatever fits in. At least doing this you remove the gear changes and driver out of the equation. Start at 60 with a full throttle and runs past 110, then cut out the section you want. Use the same piece of road each time.

The only variables then would be the intake temps.

You are still only recreating the dyno lottery on the street.

Gavin

Howdy, I've only done a few dry weather 0-100km runs and whilst I'm wouldn't back myself to get a car off the line, the mid to low 7's with a tune is what I got using my gtech GPS timer. I'm running a tune, pd160 air intake, forge dv and forge turbo intake pipe, otherwise all stock so I'd say your results are pretty well on the money and any improvement will be driver/grip related.

As for technique, I tried launching with similarly low revs to get grip, but found my better time came from a 3000-3500 launch and let first gear spin out (within reason), which felt a little slower, but the g'forces and acceleration times don't lie :-)

When I boot my computer later ill add the acceleration times.