DIY: S3/Golf R intercooler installation

[Rawcpoppa]

Recently replaced my stock intercooler with a new S3/Golf R intercooler. This guide can be used for other brands of intercoolers once they mount the same way as the stock intercooler. Even though these pics may be specific to a Jetta many of the steps are shared amongst other VW and Audi vehicles.

S3/Golf R intercooler:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13914474028_a68b47747e_c-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14077984616_14358aac96_b-1.jpg

Useful tools:
Torx screw set including T-25, T-30.
Phllips head screwdriver.
Flat head screwdriver.
Small ratchet type device with socket for varying bits including torx, phillips or flatheads.
Stock VW/Audi wheel bolt tool.



First step would be to remove the upper grille. There are 4 screws: 3 shown in picture. The screw in the white box is duplicated on the other end of the grille. After screws are removed pull the grille out horizontally towards you. May have some resistance as it is held by clips at the bottom.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13914436667_c119f7c005_h-1.jpg

After removing grille next up is the bumper. Remove two Philips head screws that sit below where the upper grille resides.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14074575356_96d1b027ce_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13911070190_8bb295e02a_b-1.jpg

Next are 5 screws in each of the wheel wells. 4 highlighted in red here which attach the wheel well guard to the bumper.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14118137093_a526185e91_b-1.jpg

And one screw with washer that attaches bumper to fender:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14074543746_8761ca2c1c_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14097653925_7940d830c3_b-1.jpg

These are the screws with washers needed to attach bumper to fender. Do not mix them up with the other screws during reassembly.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14094556312_176ee9f261_z-1.jpg

Finally there are 8 screws, highlighted in red, to be removed underneath the car making a total of 20 screws to be removed for the front bumper to come off.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14098189942_cbb92bd45e_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13914654199_609e3016f7_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14101707444_f87feb2e61_b-1.jpg


The bumper can be removed now by outwards at the left and right ends to release the bumper from clips then pulling the entire bumper towards you horizontally. Take note of a few things before completely removing bumper: Jettas with front parking sensors and fog lights will have harnesses or wires connected to the bumper which must be disconnected or they will be damaged if bumper is completely pulled off. Two connections shown here. Yellow piece is the back of the foglight with attached wired connection. Other wire connection is the main plug for the front parking sensors.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13911050207_0d82880ec1_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14094469921_64180443c2_b-1.jpg

Foglight on driver side (RHD):
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14098124714_d48cd7bc46_b-1.jpg

Bumper off. Part highlighted in red is the bumper carrier and bolted onto car's chassis and supports the radiator, intercooler, air conditioner condenser via a large plastic part called the lock carrier. Note the radiator looking object in pic is the air conditioner condenser.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14094490901_cee5d74964_b-1.jpg

[Rawcpoppa]

Bumper carrier must be removed by taking out these 4 bolts highlighted in red and 2 torx screws highlighted in white on both sides as well as 4 additional torx screws to the top. Note that the air temperature sensor in pic below should be removed prior to removing bumper carrier. Note a box or jack stands should be used to support the air conditioner condenser and related parts as they will be almost floating without the bumper carrier support. I don't know the actual size of the bolts but I used the stock wheel bolt tool that came with the car. Anyone who knows what size bolts this fits feel free to provide the info so thread can be updated.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14094525591_e9d83a9e4f_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13911362578_7d01dcd842_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13911830878_0e62759c5d_b-1.jpg

Bumper carrier removed:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13911110489_e1c910f024_b-1.jpg

Unplug any remaining harnesses at this point for headlights or hood open/close sensor (highlighted in red, located on passenger side). Unplug hood release cable attached to headlight support via two clips on driver’s side. Be careful with the clips as they are easy to break.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13914814737_71f6804a67_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13914836107_0a20fc55d3_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14119095313_4cf0dcf292_b-1.jpg

At this point most persons can remove the lock carrier with the headlights still attached via the headlight supports but I had AC lines in the way of the lock carrier so this was not possible.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14118394083_802ac7ed84_b-1.jpg

I had to remove my headlights. Screws in white are the headlight support screws. Those highlighted in red attach the headlight to the headlight support. While not shown in this picture there is one more screw to the back of the headlight to be moved. Headlight slides outwards after removing screws.

Yellow highlight shows the location of the hood release cable connector.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13911910970_450b778e74_b-1.jpg

Car should be looking like this now. Red highlights show screws that attach lock carrier to intercooler brackets which are shown removed and highlighted in red. White highlights show screws that attach the front condenser to the intercooler. In the pic they are obscured by the flappy looking part. Air conditioner lines prevent the removal of the lock carrier completely making this job harder.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14098982895_c8d6149b24_b-1.jpg

img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7042/14095357101_00c66558d5_b.jpg[/img]

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13912185150_361cd521fb_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14099369134_d4b7469ccc_b-1.jpg

After removing these screws the lock carrier and AC condenser can be swung out to gain access to the intercooler. Red highlight shows where the ac condenser connects to the intercooler. White highlight shows hose clamp that came with my car. This was different from other guides and ETKA which shows car with specialised connectors. In any case this made the work easier as the hose clamp can be used on the new intercooler quite easily. Only needs a flat head screwdriver to slacken or tighten. There are two hose clamps to be slackened on either side of the intercooler. Note the torx screws needed to separate the radiator from intercooler also highlighted in red to the back of the intercooler.

The intercooler can be pulled out from between the radiator and the AC condenser. The new intercooler goes in the same way the old one comes out. If no AC lines are in the way the process is easier without the lock carrier in the way but if this is not the case the new intercooler can still be put in but may be easier with the help of another person to hold the lock carrier and AC condenser away from other parts to create the space needed for insertion.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13912204740_c91ca75e71_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14095768342_66d9822627_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13912154337_4174538ff9_b-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/14095817932_1e71f2a6d5_b-1.jpg

Old intercooler. Part number : 1k0145803BM.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/05/13912533580_9629d4cf54_b-1.jpg

After installing new intercooler basically follow steps in reverse to reassemble.

Patience is key. Remember to reconnect all wire harnesses and hood release cable connector!

Place different sets of screws and bolts in bags and label them. This makes reassembling easier rather than trying to remember what each screw or bolt was for which section.

[tigger73]

Nice write up. Interested to know what thickness core you had on your stock intercooler. Also if you had any noticeable performance gains from the upgrade.

I've done this upgrade in my Tig and it freed things up quite noticeably. However I am running stage 2 tune so likely the air flows are higher.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rawcpoppa]

Stock core was 31 mm, 30 rows. I haven't gotten around to data logging just yet with the new cooler. Just been driving to see if there are any errors. Feels very good to drive so far but I haven't driven in high temperatures yet. When I get figures I will post them up

The fins on the stock cooler are larger than on the s3 cooler so there are few fins per row in the stock cooler as well.