Another dead DSG, ...or maybe not?

[Antiplastix]

The Yeti went in yesterday to rectify a horrible rattle at idle. Has the 7 speed DSG. Turns out its the clutch packs need replacing, so along with soft ware upgrades and mechatronics recall they may as well give us a new one. As if. :facepalm:

[Transporter]

The Yeti went in yesterday to rectify a horrible rattle at idle. Has the 7 speed DSG. Turns out its the clutch packs need replacing, so along with soft ware upgrades and mechatronics recall they may as well give us a new one. As if. :facepalm:

I wish you luck and lets hope that the recall will solve all the issues with the DSG. :)

[Rooboy]

Wow sorry to hear about the DSG troubles. Hopefully that 's the end of them :)

[Ryeman]

Any chance an update on yr DSG problem?
How long was it off the road?
Did they elaborate on the specific issues?

I pick up my 103 DSG in a couple of hrs.......woopeeee!

[CardinalSin]

Any chance an update on yr DSG problem?
How long was it off the road?
Did they elaborate on the specific issues?

I pick up my 103 DSG in a couple of hrs.......woopeeee!

In the interests of a long DSG life, hopefully.

One thing worth doing is to slip it into neutral, the same as you would[should] a manual, when you stop for more than a short while.
It's trying to go in drive which means the clutch is being slipped. It doesn't matter with a torque converter because it's just fluid being heated but it does with a clutch, even one running in oil like our 6 speeds.
There are road works locally with a good 5 minute stop if you cop it wrong. I've found you can slip it into neutral and turn it off[windows down first] then restart and slip it back into drive. No need to go through to park or even depress the shift button.

[zei20t]

In the interests of a long DSG life, hopefully.

One thing worth doing is to slip it into neutral, the same as you would[should] a manual, when you stop for more than a short while.
It's trying to go in drive which means the clutch is being slipped. It doesn't matter with a torque converter because it's just fluid being heated but it does with a clutch, even one running in oil like our 6 speeds.
There are road works locally with a good 5 minute stop if you cop it wrong. I've found you can slip it into neutral and turn it off[windows down first] then restart and slip it back into drive. No need to go through to park or even depress the shift button.

that's essentially what the start-stop function does on equipped models.

AFAIK, when stationary, the clutches are disconnected. and I think in the manual they tell you not to have it in neutral for too long. no idea why!

[Ryeman]

that's essentially what the start-stop function does on equipped models.

AFAIK, when stationary, the clutches are disconnected. and I think in the manual they tell you not to have it in neutral for too long. no idea why!

But that's what I do, (saves brake globe life also) so what exactly is going on in the gearbox when yr waiting stationary.
my guess is the hydraulic pump is holding the clutch clear BUT I've noticed if I use the hand brake instead of the brake pedal it wants to creep forward as if it's slipping the clutch.
If only you could get the exact technical reasons backing their instructions.
Why are we treated as dummies and airheads?

[zei20t]

Yes, when your foot is NOT on the brake pedal and the car is in gear, it assumes you want to take off. With only the handbrake on and in gear, it makes the assumption you're performing a hill-start with the handbrake and performs the necessary actions. Which is why you should always use the foot brake.

as for technical information, good luck with that :P

[Blue103TDIDSG]

But that's what I do, (saves brake globe life also) so what exactly is going on in the gearbox when yr waiting stationary.
my guess is the hydraulic pump is holding the clutch clear BUT I've noticed if I use the hand brake instead of the brake pedal it wants to creep forward as if it's slipping the clutch.
If only you could get the exact technical reasons backing their instructions.
Why are we treated as dummies and airheads?

Confirm what OP said about leaving in gear
when you use the footbrake it holds the clutch out
there is no detriment to the clutch plates(s) - it's in the manual somewhere

If you choose to use the handbrake my guess is you MUST put it into neutral -
otherwise the clutch WILL be fighting the brake as you mentioned
unless you are doing a hill start - but then "hill holder" does that for you anyway

I noticed this when I drive into my garage - it is a tight fit and I have to go slow
As soon as you touch the brake (foot) drive ceases
as soon as you let the brake off the clutch engages - "enthusiastically"
very disconcerting as you try and creep into the garage
what I found best was to line up and at idle, drive 3/4 into the space before touching brake
this disengages the clutch and then it can "coast" the last little bit

If I stop 2 feet short when I let the brake off it wants to move off too quickly
and you can't use 2 feet either - also in the manual

Sorry if off topic

[CardinalSin]

Good posts.
So why could it be detrimental to use neutral instead of drive?
It shouldn't matter when shutting it down at roadworks with the engine off and I guess it's a bit pointless idling in neutral if the clutch is disengaged while you have your foot on the brake. It's just from a technical point of interest.

[Ryeman]

Good posts.
So why could it be detrimental to use neutral instead of drive?
It shouldn't matter when shutting it down at roadworks with the engine off and I guess it's a bit pointless idling in neutral if the clutch is disengaged while you have your foot on the brake. It's just from a technical point of interest.

I shall continue to use neutral n handbrake. All I want is reduced clutch plate wear. I'll take it up with service techs also.
I reverse in to my tight carport but luckily it's a slight downhill slope and with my left foot on the brake pedal it's easy but I hadn't realised the intracasies of reversing on the flat.

[CardinalSin]

Another thing I do with mine, cruising on country roads, is to shift it into manual so it locks in 6th gear to stop it changing down to 5th and 4th when 6th is quite capable of doing the job and holding the speed.
You wouldn't be changing down in a manual, you would let the boost do it's job.
That's got to be the best way to bed the rings in when it's new too. It keeps the revs down but lets you use max boost to force them out before it the bore starts to glaze and harden.

[Ryeman]

Another thing I do with mine, cruising on country roads, is to shift it into manual so it locks in 6th gear to stop it changing down to 5th and 4th when 6th is quite capable of doing the job and holding the speed.
You wouldn't be changing down in a manual, you would let the boost do it's job.
That's got to be the best way to bed the rings in when it's new too. It keeps the revs down but lets you use max boost to force them out before it the bore starts to glaze and harden.

Engineers now take into account that almost nobody knows what goes on, particularly during the running-in process, so I sometimes wonder whether 'our' knowledge is being used to solve a problem that no longer exists.....in other word just go as per the manual.
In interesting to examine the Penrite website and notice the level of technical data compared to that of a vehicle engines metallurgy for instance.

[Ryeman]

I was in the habit of coasting up to the lights in neutral and if the lights changed quickly simply slip into drive with zero transmission shock......not sure with the DSG though, that's why I want to know exactly what goes on......and don't need a lecture on it being unsafe as I certainly don't if it is.

[CardinalSin]

Engineers now take into account that almost nobody knows what goes on, particularly during the running-in process, so I sometimes wonder whether 'our' knowledge is being used to solve a problem that no longer exists.....in other word just go as per the manual.
In interesting to examine the Penrite website and notice the level of technical data compared to that of a vehicle engines metallurgy for instance.

The sites that suggest using high torque to bed in the bores show some very convincing pics of the difference between the 2 methods when you look at the bores and pistons up close. If they are genuine and the materials being compared are similar it looks good to me but I agree we don't know for sure.
I have an engineering background and it seems right to me.

[CardinalSin]

I was in the habit of coasting up to the lights in neutral and if the lights changed quickly simply slip into drive with zero transmission shock......not sure with the DSG though, that's why I want to know exactly what goes on......and don't need a lecture on it being unsafe as I certainly don't if it is.

They mention somewhere about being stationary before selecting drive or reverse. I'm surprised they don't just lock the selector up unless you've stopped. Chances are, if it lets you select neutral and then drive, on the move, then it's not detrimental but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way.
You can stop it changing down under brakes by selecting manual and of course it has to shift down at about 1000rpm because it hasn't got a torque converter. I like that because in a manual I use the engine to slow down, not revving the guts out of it, for economy and safer driving. So the shifting down at 1000rpm lets me drive without braking a lot of the time.

[Ryeman]

They mention somewhere about being stationary before selecting drive or reverse. I'm surprised they don't just lock the selector up unless you've stopped. Chances are, if it lets you select neutral and then drive, on the move, then it's not detrimental but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way.
You can stop it changing down under brakes by selecting manual and of course it has to shift down at about 1000rpm because it hasn't got a torque converter. I like that because in a manual I use the engine to slow down, not revving the guts out of it, for economy and safer driving. So the shifting down at 1000rpm lets me drive without braking a lot of the time.

I agree with regard to the lack of lock out....it's inevitable that at speed it will get knocked into N so you would think the engineers would have insisted on it if it was detrimental to the 'box'.
Its SO easy it almost seems designed to enable it.
I've heard that European trans engineers are working on 'freewheeling' for an incremental emission/economy improvement.

[VW Convert]

I've heard that European trans engineers are working on 'freewheeling' for an incremental emission/economy improvement.

VW already have that, I had a brand new 130TDI Passat loan car last time my car was being serviced, it had free wheeling on overrun.

Passat Sedan variants < Passat Sedan < Models & Pricing < Volkswagen Australia (http://volkswagenaustralia.com.au/PassengerVehicleVariants/vehicle/passat%20sedan?__utma=192471733.1697764104.1391260 142.1391335157.1392442512.3&__utmb=192471733.4.10.1392442512&__utmc=192471733&__utmx=-&__utmz=192471733.1391335157.2.2.utmcsr=vwwatercool ed.com.au|utmccn=(referral)|utmcmd=referral|utmcct =/forums/f128/apparently-vws-cheap-maintain-now-93715.html&__utmv=-&__utmk=223756891)

Cheers

George

[CardinalSin]

I agree with regard to the lack of lock out....it's inevitable that at speed it will get knocked into N so you would think the engineers would have insisted on it if it was detrimental to the 'box'.
Its SO easy it almost seems designed to enable it.
I've heard that European trans engineers are working on 'freewheeling' for an incremental emission/economy improvement.

How about this scenario. It's in 6th and you slip it into neutral. The clutches were at 6th and 5th as I understand it. You slow to say 30kph and slip it back into drive. Did the clutches pre-select lower gears suitable for that speed or do they select them when it shifts into drive or is it bad news?

They could program in an economy setting where it changes up earlier, doesn't change down under brakes, slips into neutral off throttle[sailing] and only charges under brakes if the battery is above a certain level of charge.

VW are already using sailing i with the 7 speed dry clutch DSG.

DSG Freewheel activation (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?127615-DSG-Freewheel-activation&)

[CardinalSin]

VW already have that, I had a brand new 130TDI Passat loan car last time my car was being serviced, it had free wheeling on overrun.

Passat Sedan variants < Passat Sedan < Models & Pricing < Volkswagen Australia (http://volkswagenaustralia.com.au/PassengerVehicleVariants/vehicle/passat%20sedan?__utma=192471733.1697764104.1391260 142.1391335157.1392442512.3&__utmb=192471733.4.10.1392442512&__utmc=192471733&__utmx=-&__utmz=192471733.1391335157.2.2.utmcsr=vwwatercool ed.com.au|utmccn=(referral)|utmcmd=referral|utmcct =/forums/f128/apparently-vws-cheap-maintain-now-93715.html&__utmv=-&__utmk=223756891)

Cheers

George

You beat me to it. That Passat is a 6 speed DSG too.

[Ryeman]

VW already have that, I had a brand new 130TDI Passat loan car last time my car was being serviced, it had free wheeling on overrun.

Passat Sedan variants < Passat Sedan < Models & Pricing < Volkswagen Australia (http://volkswagenaustralia.com.au/PassengerVehicleVariants/vehicle/passat%20sedan?__utma=192471733.1697764104.1391260 142.1391335157.1392442512.3&__utmb=192471733.4.10.1392442512&__utmc=192471733&__utmx=-&__utmz=192471733.1391335157.2.2.utmcsr=vwwatercool ed.com.au|utmccn=(referral)|utmcmd=referral|utmcct =/forums/f128/apparently-vws-cheap-maintain-now-93715.html&__utmv=-&__utmk=223756891)

Cheers

George

So I take it that manually freewheeling in the Yeti is perfectly ok?

[VW Convert]

So I take it that manually freewheeling in the Yeti is perfectly ok?

Not sure.

VW have designed this particular version of the DQ250 DSG to operate in this way. I have no idea what the differences are between this design and previous designs. It would be quite a leap to assume the fact that a later version has been designed to operate this way clears the way to operate an earlier version in the manner you have described.

Cheers

George

[Ryeman]

Not sure.

VW have designed this particular version of the DQ250 DSG to operate in this way. I have no idea what the differences are between this design and previous designs. It would be quite a leap to assume the fact that a later version has been designed to operate this way clears the way to operate an earlier version in the manner you have described.

Cheers

George

I think if you accidentally knocked it into neutral and the re selected D and it damaged the box I'd be pretty p..... and want an explanation why N wasn't protected by lockout.

[CardinalSin]

I think if you accidentally knocked it into neutral and the re selected D and it damaged the box I'd be pretty p..... and want an explanation why N wasn't protected by lockout.

If you give it a go i'll be interested to hear how you get on.
I would try it at about 70kph in 6th the first time, so there isn't a big difference in the rpm needed to get back into drive again. Just in case.

[VW Convert]

I think if you accidentally knocked it into neutral and the re selected D and it damaged the box I'd be pretty p..... and want an explanation why N wasn't protected by lockout.

So would I, doesn't mean I'm going to assume that it is OK to do so, potentially an expensive way to find out if it is OK or not.

Curious to understand your comments about not wanting to wear out the clutches. In all the years I've been on this forum I don't recall seeing a single post relating to premature wear of clutches on a DQ250, for that matter, I can't recall a single post about replacing DQ250 clutches other than a handful where users were doing engine mods and were upgrading to cope with significant increase in power output.

Cheers

George

[Ryeman]

If you give it a go i'll be interested to hear how you get on.
I would try it at about 70kph in 6th the first time, so there isn't a big difference in the rpm needed to get back into drive again. Just in case.

No No, you go first:-)))
My theory is that the clutch that handles 2/4/6 doesn't engage until the road speed sensor matches the main shaft speed by application of the precise amount of fuel to the engine. Seeing there is no big deal with everything being digitally driven and monitored.
I guess as each through SAE articles will be the best way to research it.
A theory of mine is if Toyota use it, it must be bullet proof.
They don't!

[Ryeman]

So would I, doesn't mean I'm going to assume that it is OK to do so, potentially an expensive way to find out if it is OK or not.

Curious to understand your comments about not wanting to wear out the clutches. In all the years I've been on this forum I don't recall seeing a single post relating to premature wear of clutches on a DQ250, for that matter, I can't recall a single post about replacing DQ250 clutches other than a handful where users were doing engine mods and were upgrading to cope with significant increase in power output.

Cheers

George

Re clutch wear, I'm meaning the moving off/and 'drag' against the handbrake when in D. Also idling on an upslope sufficient to not need foot or handbrake (I'd like to know what's going on there in particular because it's not that uncommon in a conventional auto).
Ta

[CardinalSin]

No No, you go first:-)))
My theory is that the clutch that handles 2/4/6 doesn't engage until the road speed sensor matches the main shaft speed by application of the precise amount of fuel to the engine. Seeing there is no big deal with everything being digitally driven and monitored.
I guess as each through SAE articles will be the best way to research it.
A theory of mine is if Toyota use it, it must be bullet proof.
They don't!

Thanks but i'll pass. :wink_2:

I think it would work or lock you out. The danger is that it works but over time causes problems.
I like the idea of the DSG software being modified to alter shift patterns, remove the torque limiter and increase the clutch pressure to lift the capability of the box.
I read somewhere that VW will upgrade the software on the DSG, for free, to match the latest spec which improves the operation and the life.

My Toyota 86 manual was a Subaru with some Toyota parts. Lexus gearbox, LSD and direct injection are the main Toyota contributions. After about 12,000km the 5th gear synchro failed and they fitted a new gearbox. They were good in replacing it quickly with no hesitation but it was far from bullet proof.

[passatstef]

Thanks but i'll pass. :wink_2:

I think it would work or lock you out. The danger is that it works but over time causes problems.
I like the idea of the DSG software being modified to alter shift patterns, remove the torque limiter and increase the clutch pressure to lift the capability of the box.
I read somewhere that VW will upgrade the software on the DSG, for free, to match the latest spec which improves the operation and the life.

My Toyota 86 manual was a Subaru with some Toyota parts. Lexus gearbox, LSD and direct injection are the main Toyota contributions. After about 12,000km the 5th gear synchro failed and they fitted a new gearbox. They were good in replacing it quickly with no hesitation but it was far from bullet proof.

if any one needs info on this silly box that volkswagon have and having problems let me know.i rebuild them for a living so forth.

[CardinalSin]

if any one needs info on this silly box that volkswagon have and having problems let me know.i rebuild them for a living so forth.

Is there anything we should avoid doing and is the DQ250 more reliable than the 7 speed dry clutch version?

[tigger73]

Is there anything we should avoid doing and is the DQ250 more reliable than the 7 speed dry clutch version?

I think you'll find 90% of the problems are with the DQ200 found in the lower power output models.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CardinalSin]

I think you'll find 90% of the problems are with the DQ200 found in the lower power output models.

That's a relief! Thanks.

[zei20t]

the DQ250 is 10+ years old now. they have finally ironed out the bugs :)

[Ryeman]

the DQ250 is 10+ years old now. they have finally ironed out the bugs :)

I'd like to know how the crank shaft can go fm 2000-1500rpm in milliseconds without any clutch wear in the process.

[VW Convert]

I'd like to know how the crank shaft can go fm 2000-1500rpm in milliseconds without any clutch wear in the process.

Clever German engineering? LOL :cool:

Never really thought about that but in my experience it works just fine. Always interesting to know the ins and outs of these things but I don't worry too much about the hows and whys, I just drive it and enjoy the experience.


Cheers

George

[zei20t]

I'd like to know how the crank shaft can go fm 2000-1500rpm in milliseconds without any clutch wear in the process.

they cut the ignition during the shift, so the engine is only using its own momentum to turn until its back in gear and ignition is started again. also, this causes the DSG 'fart'

[Ryeman]

they cut the ignition during the shift, so the engine is only using its own momentum to turn until its back in gear and ignition is started again. also, this causes the DSG 'fart'

Fuel I think.

Yeah I'd assumed that but the rotating mass is braking too quickly for that alone IMO

[CardinalSin]

Fuel I think.

Yeah I'd assumed that but the rotating mass is braking too quickly for that alone IMO

Surely it's no more of a load on the clutch than the same thing with a manual? Less really because, unless you're braking, the DSG changes down changes at the lowest possible point. Changing up, if they cut the fuel it's very similar to with a manual and backing off the throttle until the clutch is engaged except it gets it right every time and each clutch only gets used for 3 gears and runs in oil.

Perhaps the timing of the shift is how long it takes to shift from one gear to the next and doesn't include one clutch disengaging and the other engaging?

[Ryeman]

Hmmm.....rpm refers to the crank revolutions AFAIK.....it's a mystery to me still but if the 'box' lasts as long as the engine who cares.

[Blue103TDIDSG]

No No, you go first:-)))
My theory is that the clutch that handles 2/4/6 doesn't engage until the road speed sensor matches the main shaft speed by application of the precise amount of fuel to the engine. Seeing there is no big deal with everything being digitally driven and monitored.
I guess as each through SAE articles will be the best way to research it.
A theory of mine is if Toyota use it, it must be bullet proof.
They don't!

Don't know about Toyotas being bullet proof LOL

But on the neutral thing whilst moving -
We have a fiat 500 Twinair and it has a similar gearbox, albeit only a single clutch - they call it a Dualogic gearbox
We were checking out a very slight vibration and to determine if engine related I just knocked it into neutral whilst going slightly downhill at about 75kph - engine went to idle and vibration continued - so not engine related
Then just put it back into "D" - well the Fiat equivalent

Well there was a huge "BANG" and bits of gearbox blew out under car and went everywhere -
Oil all over the place !!!

NO NO NO JUST KIDDING

As Ryeman says above - it just adjusted the engine revs to match road speed and engaged 5th gear without any noticeable change apart from an increase in engine revs
The truth is I never even thought about it as these days a car, or any other product for that matter has to be idiot proof

So if you can move the lever into neutral it will either do nothing and sound some alarm or will just do as requested and go into neutral. Putting it back into "D" I would expect it to do no less than the humble little Fiat and go straight into the applicable gear and adjust engine revs to suit and then drop the appropriate clutch - all in about 0.2 of a second

Struth - it won't let you remove the key if it's not in park - so selecting neutral shouldn't be a problem
Or if it is, it just won't do it

If I remember I will try it next time I'm out in the Yeti

Cheers

[Ryeman]

Yeah, it couldn't be a problem if there's no N lockout. I sometimes find myself driving with one hand resting on the selector and if you hit a bump it's too easy to accidentally knock a trans into neutral just like my old ZF which actually HAD a N lockout which wasn't foolproof due to slight maladjustment but didn't seem to object at all.
I used to double declutch in manuals all the time.....now tech requires no skill at all.

[zei20t]

Don't know about Toyotas being bullet proof LOL

But on the neutral thing whilst moving -
We have a fiat 500 Twinair and it has a similar gearbox, albeit only a single clutch - they call it a Dualogic gearbox
We were checking out a very slight vibration and to determine if engine related I just knocked it into neutral whilst going slightly downhill at about 75kph - engine went to idle and vibration continued - so not engine related
Then just put it back into "D" - well the Fiat equivalent

Well there was a huge "BANG" and bits of gearbox blew out under car and went everywhere -
Oil all over the place !!!

NO NO NO JUST KIDDING

hahah nice try, my wifes 500 is bulletproof - well, so far. she has the 6 speed manual however.




As Ryeman says above - it just adjusted the engine revs to match road speed and engaged 5th gear without any noticeable change apart from an increase in engine revs
The truth is I never even thought about it as these days a car, or any other product for that matter has to be idiot proof

So if you can move the lever into neutral it will either do nothing and sound some alarm or will just do as requested and go into neutral. Putting it back into "D" I would expect it to do no less than the humble little Fiat and go straight into the applicable gear and adjust engine revs to suit and the drop the appropriate clutch - all in about 0.2 of a second

Struth - it won't let you remove the key if it's not in park - so selecting neutral shouldn't be a problem
Or if it is, it just won't do it

If I remember I will try it next time I'm out in the Yeti

Cheers

I should mention ive done this while travelling. it does exactly as mentioned above. nothing to be afraid of.

pretty sure these engineers look at many scenarios. there are also times when you don't need the button. moving from S to D for example. moving from R to N to D, also.

[CardinalSin]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll give it a go now and see if I can improve the economy even further.

It would be good to have a sailing button. When you press it it goes into neutral if you lift right off the throttle but goes back into drive when you touch it again or the brake.

[Blue103TDIDSG]

I should mention ive done this while travelling. it does exactly as mentioned above. nothing to be afraid of..

Thanks zei20t
Problem solved !!!




pretty sure these engineers look at many scenarios. there are also times when you don't need the button. moving from S to D for example. moving from R to N to D, also.

Agree, as I said in the earlier post, cars, and all things for that matter, have to be virtually "idiot proof"
but when you look at not being able to remove the key unless in park
and the Fiat won't start unless you have the footbrake depressed

Seems they are designed more for the "totally brain dead" !!!!!!!!!!!

[Ryeman]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll give it a go now and see if I can improve the economy even further.

It would be good to have a sailing button. When you press it it goes into neutral if you lift right off the throttle but goes back into drive when you touch it again or the brake.

Particularly in a diesel which has such an engine braking effect when you lift off in D.
Had a curtesy 77TSI version to replace mine (retrofit rear parking sensors overlooked) and at 90 down the Arthur's Seat hill there was no trans shock slipping back in to D :-)....on the other hand there's b....r all engine braking in the TSI either so not as much to be gained.
+ glory be I noticed that you CAN get the large version of the digital speed display. What I had was a mish mash of digital clutter and positively distracting at that.

[Diesel_vert]

To relinquish a layer of control over the gearbox (and to a certain extent, the vehicle itself) is the inescapable consequence and unavoidable characteristic of the automatic transmission.

That more than anything else, is the compromise, and price one pays, for the convenience of self-shifting gears.

If that cannot be accepted, and gearbox control is considered mission-critical for a driver, then a manual transmission is still the better choice.

Anyone is, of course, free to manipulate the gearbox operation in whichever manner they see fit, but what control one has over an automatic gearbox is ultimately limited by what manual override options are given by the grace of the manufacturer.

[Ryeman]

To relinquish a layer of control over the gearbox (and to a certain extent, the vehicle itself) is the inescapable consequence and unavoidable characteristic of the automatic transmission.

That more than anything else, is the compromise, and price one pays, for the convenience of self-shifting gears.

If that cannot be accepted, and gearbox control is considered mission-critical for a driver, then a manual transmission is still the better choice.

Anyone is, of course, free to manipulate the gearbox operation in whichever manner they see fit, but what control one has over an automatic gearbox is ultimately limited by what manual override options are given by the grace of the manufacturer.

As long as SWMBO agrees that is :-)

[Ryeman]

A pet hate of mine is the miss alignment (plane) of the brake pedal and accelerator pedals.
I'm assuming it harks back to Audi withdrawing from the US market in the 80s ISTR due to those challenged onesmistaking whoa pedal from go pedal and suing the company out of business there.

[CardinalSin]

Particularly in a diesel which has such an engine braking effect when you lift off in D.
Had a curtesy 77TSI version to replace mine (retrofit rear parking sensors overlooked) and at 90 down the Arthur's Seat hill there was no trans shock slipping back in to D :-)....on the other hand there's b....r all engine braking in the TSI either so not as much to be gained.
+ glory be I noticed that you CAN get the large version of the digital speed display. What I had was a mish mash of digital clutter and positively distracting at that.

I just tried it in mine and it's completely seamless and you don't even need to depress the button. It selects the highest gear possible. I'll try it again at higher speed, that was 80kph and again at 50kph.

It took me a couple of weeks to find that large km display too. I don't know why it was hiding before, you certainly need it with the poorly angled analogue gauge that has you moving to the right to read it.

[Ryeman]

I just tried it in mine and it's completely seamless and you don't even need to depress the button. It selects the highest gear possible. I'll try it again at higher speed, that was 80kph and again at 50kph.

It took me a couple of weeks to find that large km display too. I don't know why it was hiding before, you certainly need it with the poorly angled analogue gauge that has you moving to the right to read it.

Yeah it's the fact that you don't have to override a lockout that makes it seem it was to be driven as the driver likes.

Speedo.....
I think its in MDI options but I didn't get much of a 'handover' cos the sales guy was away sick and the guy who did it I don't think had much idea beyond setting up Bluetooth for my S3.
I'll keep at it til it comes up because the handbook is tediously difficult to follow with so many dif setups.

[CardinalSin]

Yeah it's the fact that you don't have to override a lockout that makes it seem it was to be driven as the driver likes.

Speedo.....
I think its in MDI options but I didn't get much of a 'handover' cos the sales guy was away sick and the guy who did it I don't think had much idea beyond setting up Bluetooth for my S3.
I'll keep at it til it comes up because the handbook is tediously difficult to follow with so many dif setups.

I thought you had found the big digital speed display, not just that you can have it.
You just rotate the thumb wheel thingy on the right hand side of the steering wheel. Don't press it down, just rotate it through about 10 displays in total until you get it. Right next to engine oil temp.

[joel0407]

I thought you had found the big digital speed display, not just that you can have it.
You just rotate the thumb wheel thingy on the right hand side of the steering wheel. Don't press it down, just rotate it through about 10 displays in total until you get it. Right next to engine oil temp.

It might not be that simple because some things can be turned off in the menu.

Happy Days.

[Ryeman]

I've just checked the TSI and 1/ press u-turn/back button 2/ scroll to MDI 3/ press scroll tumbler to select then scroll to large speed display
QED once you've interpreted the tedious instructions which is the result of one manual for three basic variations plus seemingly endless options which muddle things further combined with two different methods depending on our version.
Sheesh!
If only they could give you a supplement TDI shorthand .AU version.

[Ryeman]

Oops getting a bit off road here:-)


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[CardinalSin]

Oops getting a bit off road here:-)
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Did you get it displayed?

[Ryeman]

Would you believe it won't show up on mine but did in the 77TSI......So what the heck is going on, it's certainly not next to oil temp.
Digital speed remains ticked in options .....v weird.


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[Ryeman]

It might not be that simple because some things can be turned off in the menu.

Happy Days.

Well b....r me! I've obviously over complicated it because sure enough just scrolling and there it is!
Strangely though either side is range.....no oil temp indication which I WAS getting via the long complex way but no complaints now.
Ta all.

[CardinalSin]

Well b....r me! I've obviously over complicated it because sure enough just scrolling and there it is!
Strangely though either side is range.....no oil temp indication which I WAS getting via the long complex way but no complaints now.
Ta all.

Same with me. I had read the book and tried the complicated stuff without success. Then I rang the dealer and the saleswoman said that she just scrolls that wheel and when I did it there it was!

[Ryeman]

I think the 'back' button is to get you into your 'preferences' and that's why oil temp wasn't adjacent to speed cos I unticked all 'cept speed in my desperate attempt to get a legible speedo......the analogue one is positively unsafe in multiple speed zone areas.....30/50/70/90/110 take far too long to identify, at least for me.

Ps ...glad I didn't go for the 'cheapie' , the interior was obviously designed to remind you where they saved money.....the ICE n HVAC controls felt cheap, 'gritty' n flimsy and general trim looked industrial crude.
The ride though was more compliant n supple for obvious reasons.....
Prices KEEP coming down I noticed when I was at the dealership......$29990 incl metallic n reverse sensors......how low can they go?!


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[CardinalSin]

When I'm on a country trip I play with the settings to get the best economy and see how far the tank will get me but as soon as I hit lower speed limits I put it straight back to the large digital speed display. I wear glasses for distance and my reading vision is getting closer every year so that crappy analogue speedo is very hard to read and certainly impossible at a glance unlike that digital readout.

I agree with the trim. I'm waiting for my door handle surrounds from superskoda to bling it up a bit more.

Yeti - interior door handle frames SILVER METALlIC : superskoda.com (http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/YETI/Yeti-interior-door-handle-frames-SILVER-METALlIC)

Do I get to be a VW fan too after 50 posts? http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.png

I thought mine was rock bottom but that's another $1000 off and with a 5 year warranty too!

[Ryeman]

When I'm on a country trip I play with the settings to get the best economy and see how far the tank will get me but as soon as I hit lower speed limits I put it straight back to the large digital speed display. I wear glasses for distance and my reading vision is getting closer every year so that crappy analogue speedo is very hard to read and certainly impossible at a glance unlike that digital readout.

I agree with the trim. I'm waiting for my door handle surrounds from superskoda to bling it up a bit more.

Yeti - interior door handle frames SILVER METALlIC : superskoda.com (http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/YETI/Yeti-interior-door-handle-frames-SILVER-METALlIC)

Do I get to be a VW fan too after 50 posts? :rolleyes:

I thought mine was rock bottom but that's another $1000 off and with a 5 year warranty too!

The prices are ridiculous and seem to me to indicate a desperate sales situation.....a bit worrying actually.
Cop that, another post:-) Where is everyone?

[passatstef]

its a mix of things mate.thay are from the same family of boxers.me perosnaly i hate them and why the hell did vw whent with dsg for.the system thay used befor hand was a good box

[Antiplastix]

So far, warranty work on the 77 TSI Yeti at 20k Kms ; DSG Clutch Pack
Mechtronics Replacment
Cam Shaft journal replacement
No. 3 Coil Pack Failure

....the vRS 147 TSI manual 55k Kms ; Zilch, No problems.

[Antiplastix]

Update, 2nd clutch pack replaced under warranty due to shuddering at 50,000 km and high tension leads replaced after being melted by the manifold, even though the car is now out of warranty.