k-jet help

[82cab]

i"ve dropped my 16 valve in and there are a few issues. The only way for me to get the car to idle is to have the idle stablizer valve open all the time. It just doesn't seem right to me, and if i do this the thing takes a long time to idle back down.

Can anyone who has some knowledge on k-jet tell me if this normal and if not how is the set-up supposed to function properly.

Also she is running a bit warm too, i took the thermostat out for now to see if it was that causing it or whether it just runs hotter whilst it's running in. I'm using the standard fan on the radiator, the larger cabrio one i used to run died. Just wondering if anyone else came accros the same thing when they dropped a 16v in a mk1

any help is appreciated, this is my daily driver and i don't have anything else to use

cheers

[Golfwise]

The idle stablizing valve is for KE and later.If you are running early Jket remove it.
Never had an overheating problem re 16v in mk1 even on standard radiator so look for something else.Is the guage reading correctly

[82cab]

thanks golfwise great advice, that did the trick to get it to idle.

Just wondering if i can still use that valve for the cold start set up or can i get away without using the valve at all. I haven't had enough time to see if it will start cold.

Also just another quick question, what should the timing be set at?

[h100vw]

I have to ask what the engine is out of? Is it a KR? These all had an ISV and it's only a few wires to have it run correctly. You need the controller too which lives in the centre console.

I have seen people use the std MK1 bypass valve but they don't work as well as an ISV in my eyes.

When you say it runs warm, what's that based against? If the fan isn't running all the time then it is probably at the normal temp for a 16V.

Gavin

[ausgolfer]

I'm with Gavin (h100vw) my KR 16v (non KE Jet) has and idle stabilizatoin valve and it always runs like a dream.
It also usually runs pretty warm. when sitting in traffic even on cold days runs upwards of 104 degrees oil temp.

[82cab]

the motor is a kr it was running hot but now it's sitting fine i think it was running a little lean and perhaps too advanced.

Once i disconnected the idle stablizer valve full time its all ok.

Doesn't seem to be pulling the power it should at the moment, but a little more tinkering and hopefully it should get there.

I can't test it out at the moment, i have to reconnect the inner cv back onto the shaft , it looks like the circlip came off.

I'll have another crack at getting it running right when i i fix the cv

At the moment its not running much better than the 8v with a webber.

It should be screaming at me.

[Golfwise]

You still haven't told us which injection system you are running.
Is you metering head black or aluminium.
Are you using the KR wiring loom which would make it KE.
Are you running a knock sensor.
Or are you still using all the original Cab components.which would make it straight Kjet.
Or is it a mixture of both.

[82cab]

ok what i have is a K-jet fuel metering head (black) (it's definitely not KE
i've got a ke harness running the dizzy with a knock sensor It seems to work just fine too
(Just want to check which lead the knock sensor is supposed to be on, when i got the mototr the sensor was on lead no 4)
i've got an old harness to run the cold start which is ater market but basically it worked well on mt k system when it was on the 8v

So its a bitsa like the rest of my car

[82cab]

i also have a harness to run the dizzy which just uses the module and no knock sesnor if that helps

[Golf Loon]

Do you have a 3 pin plug left over, whick should go to the ke metering head. If you are using the smaller k-jet flap it will suck less air, so could have less power.

Is the timing advancing?

Sounds like you are having fun, glad you got the motor in there. My parts are at your disposal if you get stuck, but I reckon you`ll get there soon.

[82cab]

oh well so much for the 4 day convertion. Hopefully it will be finished soon.

[DOHCDAVE]

I have a 16v in a mk1 running k-jet with no knock sensor no vacum adv or electronic vac adv, no cold start, no power to the warm up reg, no isv valve and running a 4spd kept up door to door with an ss prob about 03 mod ute. The motor runs great, gearbox sounds a little worse for wear only been running on the motor for a few weeks.
Only thing is that when i start it in the morn it sounds a little like a rotary
wavering up and down until things warm up a little about a min of keeping the revs steady and she's right to go starts first time e t.

and it's a pl pref motor with the smaller intake cam than the kr. also if you can get it on the dyno takes no time to adjust the mixture and the timing while it's on the rolling road wich will put your mind at peace and knowing that your not running it to lean as the 16v doesn't like it. or the other way round not running to rich as you will lose power also.

sorry for the blab clad to hear of another 16v daily drver mk1

cheers dave

[82cab]

i'm going to have to try and tune it right
webbers are so much easier.

[worm]

running a 4spd
cheers dave

Someone give this man a 5 speed! :P

[Golf Loon]

running a 4spd
cheers dave

Someone give this man a 5 speed! :P

I did, he just needs to fit it. :oops:

[Golfwise]

Will you give me one too :cry:

[82cab]

Ok boys she's starting to run quite well now and sounds very throaty.

Thanks for all the helpfull advice. Now i need to pick your brains a bit more. I need the cold start set up explained to me, i have a harness for it but i would really like to know exactly how it works so i can hook it up effectively.

Does the cold start injector stay on all the time until the warm up regulator turns it off or does it just turn on for a few seconds and stop
And does the idle stablizer used or do i block it from running in to the large tube but let it vent down to where the injector is
or do i just let it open whilst it is cranking only

Any help or info in the system would be great

Cheeers

[Golf Loon]

OK, the power going from the ign switch ( 50) to the starter solenoid (50) has a take off, going to the cold start valve, and in parallel to the thermo time switch. ( shown as red with black trace ), this allows power to warm up the thermo time switch bi metallic strip,

The other side of the cold start valve goes to earth via the thermo time switch..ie when the time switch has sufficiently warmed up, then it breaks the earth flow for the cold start valve.. ( from memory something like 5 or 8 seconds..)

Borrowed from an earlier post, thanks to roccodingo