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View Full Version : Penrite pink coolant is it really VW approved?



rutti
13-06-2013, 03:40 PM
Does anyone know or have experience in using the Penrite pink coolant? The label says its approved for VW and also mention equivalent to g12. Repco is currently having a sale on the 5l ones.

Tubbs76
13-06-2013, 03:53 PM
Even though one would always reco factory, to my knowledge, any pink / red coolant can be substituted. I find the toyata (red) coolant is very good and ran this for a while. comes mixed at 50/50 ratio. To be honnest, there really is no difference between red and green coolant apart from the cost. one does not out perform the other. I know many people who have flushed their systems and have gone over to green for the simple fact that the long term running costs are far less.

Hillbilly
13-06-2013, 05:18 PM
Does anyone know or have experience in using the Penrite pink coolant? The label says its approved for VW and also mention equivalent to g12. Repco is currently having a sale on the 5l ones.

Despite last reply I would stick with the G12 that VW recommend. Blow a gasket with the wrong stuff in it and you will need deep pockets.

There was another thread on here yesterday about this and it said the Penrite was VW approved but unless it has the correct info on the bottle would be a bit sus of it.

Read this thread It seems Penrite is OK , nothing else is

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f77/alternative-g12-coolant-47274.html

Hillbilly
13-06-2013, 05:22 PM
Even though one would always reco factory, to my knowledge, any pink / red coolant can be substituted. I find the toyata (red) coolant is very good and ran this for a while. comes mixed at 50/50 ratio. To be honnest, there really is no difference between red and green coolant apart from the cost. one does not out perform the other. I know many people who have flushed their systems and have gone over to green for the simple fact that the long term running costs are far less.

From Blauparts site

#2 What Type Of Vw Coolant

Use ONLY Audi Vw G11, or G12 approved anti-phosphate, anti-amine, anti-phosphorous coolant! Do NOT use regular store bought coolant, which typically contains ethylene glycol and doesn't correspond with the specifications of a Vw cooling system. The specification or type of Vw coolant required for a particular model can be found stamped on the expansion tank (e.g. G11 or G12) as well as in the owner's manual under the coolant section. It's also good to note the color of your coolant (e.g. pink or purple). See Vw Coolant Features section below for further Vw coolant information and specifications.

What happens if you don't use correct approved Vw coolant?
Inferior coolant has an adverse reaction within a Vw cooling system. Poor quality coolant contaminates the system and eats away at metal, rubber, and plastic components. Obvious external indicators are bulging coolant hoses and white calcified residue oozing from coolant hose clamp mating areas (See Image 2). Not so obvious is lime and scale deposits that begin to build-up in the radiator core, restricting coolant flow and causing the engine to run hotter (especially in summer and warmer climates). All of this eventually causes serious engine problems (i.e. water pump failure - See Image 1). If your coolant is green or brown in color, thoroughly flush your cooling system immediately! You'll notice similar warnings in your owner's manual under the coolant section.
#3 Vw Coolant Concentration

Transporter
13-06-2013, 06:05 PM
Does anyone know or have experience in using the Penrite pink coolant? The label says its approved for VW and also mention equivalent to g12. Repco is currently having a sale on the 5l ones.

What's wrong with the VW coolant? :?

golfgti101
13-06-2013, 06:07 PM
very big difference with green coolant and the pink stuff... green stuff is ethylene glycol based and doesn't work with your coolant system...

Lito
13-06-2013, 06:38 PM
It's not like g-12 is that expensive anyway and it's a life time product. Incidentally when I burst a coolant hose recently I had to buy some more coolant to top up and I got g-13.

rutti
13-06-2013, 07:00 PM
What's wrong with the VW coolant? :? nothing wrong, just thought its easier buying coolant from repco than driving 1 hour to get coolant from dealers.

rutti
13-06-2013, 07:05 PM
Thanks for the input so far. So looks like the Penrite stuff isn't officially approved, at least nothing official.

Hillbilly
13-06-2013, 09:04 PM
Thanks for the input so far. So looks like the Penrite stuff isn't officially approved, at least nothing official.

Ok I went to the Penrite site and found this page http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/

It says the PINK coolant is Glycol based but it also says its VW approved so make your own mind up but I think I would buy the real stuff next time you are in town

Approvals page

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/193%20-%20Coolants%20Range%20Update%20-%20Nov%202012.pdf

rutti
13-06-2013, 09:51 PM
What's wrong with the VW coolant? :?


Ok I went to the Penrite site and found this page Penrite Australia - NetLube (http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/)

It says the PINK coolant is Glycol based but it also says its VW approved so make your own mind up but I think I would buy the real stuff next time you are in town

Approvals page

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/193%20-%20Coolants%20Range%20Update%20-%20Nov%202012.pdf
Cheers mate. I think you nailed it!

kaanage
13-06-2013, 10:07 PM
G12 and G12+ are also glycol based (all coolants are except for race coolants where the lubricity of glycol is a safety hazard)

AA-Academy : Antifreeze (http://www.aa-academy.com/asp/info.asp?id=72)

Penrite could be sued if their coolant didn't actually comply with G12/G12+ and all the other specification they list for their magenta coolant ( here is a better link http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=6&id_products=272)

There's caution and then there's paranoia

Tubbs76
13-06-2013, 11:33 PM
My understanding is that there is green coolant which is anti corrosive.. could be wrong?

Tubbs76
13-06-2013, 11:41 PM
Looks like im flushing and going back to red then, had it on good authority from a bloke who specialises in vw's and audis that both will work fine as long as anti corrosive..in terms of cooling performance, has also stated that they work the same and one isnt better than the other in that respect. def stated you must get the mix ratio right though.

kaanage
14-06-2013, 07:15 AM
had it on good authority from a bloke who specialises in vw's and audis that both will work fine as long as anti corrosive..in terms of cooling performance, has also stated that they work the same and one isnt better than the other in that respect. def stated you must get the mix ratio right though.

Have a good read of the AA Academy article that I linked to in my previous post - it explains what the differences are but the main factors are that the older (usually green) coolants need periodic replacement because the corrosion inhibitors break down over time while the newer ones (often but not always pink/purple) are basically fully stable if properly mixed and only need replacement if the cooling system needs draining.

Don't mix coolants, though, as that is what causes the nasty pics on the Blauparts site because the different additives react and precipitate out.

And yes, cooling performance is the same for the old and new coolants since the main content in both is water + (ethylene or propylene) glycol - the difference lies in the corrosion inhibitors that are added.

Here is another description of the differences http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2012162&postcount=5

Transporter
14-06-2013, 08:37 AM
Hmm, then open the Yellow Pages and see how many cylinder head reconditioning workshops are there, go and see one and check out how many heads are corroded there. Then, take my advice and change that coolant every 3 years even if they say it was a lifetime fill (we all know what that means - usually 5years/120,000km), you can stretch the first coolant change to 4 Years in the VAG car. But ofcourse if you keep your car only 3-5 years do nothing about the cooling system.

Honda, Toyota, Mazda coolant life is 8-10 years and I didn't hear that their cooling systems corrode. However VAG cooling system is often topped up and that IMO reduces the life of the coolant greatly, plus often the w/pump needs replacing sooner, or if fitted with the timing belt the w/pump will be replaced at the same time (most likely). So in reality the VAG coolant stays in the engine less than 5 years when engine has the timing belt, but now it could be up to 7years before the coolant is changed. So, I would definitelly change it at the 4th year.

Changing the coolant every 3 years may void the cooling system leaks, it could save your engine if/when overheated because of the leak. Corroded coolant connectors and radiators cost more than the cost of the coolant change.

noone
14-06-2013, 08:55 AM
I use the Penrite, I bought it based on the other thread and that is was $50 for a 5L of Pre-mix.

Its hard to get some past the same colour, same stuff attitude (mechanics included). I don't understand it, but I'm happy with the price for G12+ approved, not going to burn a hole in my pocket.

The other variable / question is what water to mix it with, distilled, demineralised, tap, etc.

Hillbilly
14-06-2013, 09:13 AM
If changing to a different coolant it says on the Penrite info page that A COMPLETE FLUSH SHOULD BE DONE FIRST

Whether the theory behind that is to sell more product or for sound technical reasons I will leave up to you

kaanage
14-06-2013, 09:46 AM
That's correct to prevent contamination if the system was using a different (nonG12/G12+) coolant. If topping up with Penrite Magenta in a system with VW G12, then you don't need a system flush.



However VAG cooling system is often topped up and that IMO reduces the life of the coolant greatly, plus often the w/pump needs replacing sooner, or if fitted with the timing belt the w/pump will be replaced at the same time (most likely). So in reality the VAG coolant stays in the engine less than 5 years when engine has the timing belt, but now it could be up to 7years before the coolant is changed. So, I would definitelly change it at the 4th year.

None of which contradicts my statement about the stability of G12/G12+ if properly mixed. The water pump/timing belt change is an instance of an instance when the cooling system needs draining.



The other variable / question is what water to mix it with, distilled, demineralised, tap, etc.
For the coolant to be fully stable, you need to mix with distilled or demineralised, deionised water. Tap water is probably used in most top up situations which does not meet the "properly mixed" definition (maybe I should have been explicit about that from the start but I thought the reference links I posted covered that - looking at the back at the links, they didn't cover the water) which leads to the degradation over time, mentioned by Transporter.

noone
14-06-2013, 09:57 AM
I had the rep in spares @ VW tell me tap was fine, i use demineralized. Have not yet read the link.

Tubbs76
14-06-2013, 11:25 AM
I would def use demineralised water.. Out of curiosity (not aying this is right or wrong) thought i would investigate further the diff between red v green coolant.. I found a very interesting article I thought I would share. Def worth a read

Antifreeze: Red or Green? (http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa052601a.htm)

Enjoy the read

Tubbs76
14-06-2013, 01:03 PM
Funnily enough, needed to go and pick up some oil and whilst in the shop, had a quick look at some of the green coolants at hand out of curiosity (sorry guys, im one of those real inquisative people) to take a look at specs, etc.. and many of them claim that they are compatible with VW Motors,etc.. Myabe the newer stuff has come along way in recent years. I guess like everthing, people have choices and ultimately the choice comes down ot the the end user. Most important thing is you do youe research before deciding to go either red or green,
By no means am I trying to state that red is better or vice versa.. it seems they both have their pros can cons.

Hillbilly
15-06-2013, 06:23 PM
Funnily enough, needed to go and pick up some oil and whilst in the shop, had a quick look at some of the green coolants at hand out of curiosity (sorry guys, im one of those real inquisative people) to take a look at specs, etc.. and many of them claim that they are compatible with VW Motors,etc.. Myabe the newer stuff has come along way in recent years. I guess like everthing, people have choices and ultimately the choice comes down ot the the end user. Most important thing is you do youe research before deciding to go either red or green,
By no means am I trying to state that red is better or vice versa.. it seems they both have their pros can cons.

Lots of products state they are "compatible " with VW but it the ones that have "Approval" that should be used.

To get this approval they have to submit a product for testing (at a cost) and if it passes they get a letter like this which allows them to put "Approved by VW on the product container

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/oem_pdfs/EPLUS5W30_VW.pdf If it doesnt have that I wouldnt use it in my vehicles

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=6&id_products=272

Diesel_vert
16-06-2013, 01:56 AM
These days, it would extremely unwise to go by colour alone when deciding which coolant to use, as demonstrated below:

G11 (VW TL-774 C)
Mono-ethylene glycol hybrid coolant (OAT with silicates but no nitrates, amines or phosphates) dyed blue.

G12 (VW TL-774 D)
Mono-ethylene glycol OAT coolant (no silicates, nitrates, amines, borates or phosphates) dyed red.

G12+ (VW TL-774 F)
Mono-ethylene glycol OAT coolant (no silicates, nitrates, amines, borates or phosphates) dyed purple.

G12++ (VW TL-774 G)
Mono-ethylene glycol lobrid coolant (OAT with reduced silicates, but no nitrates, amines or phosphates) dyed purple.

G13 (VW TL-774 J)
Mono-ethylene glycol and glycerine lobrid coolant (OAT with reduced silicates, but no nitrates, amines or phosphates) dyed purple.




In terms of chemical compatibility, all G12 and G13 coolants can be mixed with each other.

However, in terms of vehicle application, G12, G12+, G12++ and G13 coolants should generally be used in a forward-compatible (rather than backward-compatible) manner. As such, Volkswagen recommends that:

A car factory-filled (or flushed and refilled) with G12 should be topped up with G12 or G12+ or G12++ or G13.
A car factory-filled (or flushed and refilled) with G12+ should be topped up with G12+ or G12++ or G13.
A car factory-filled (or flushed and refilled) with G12++ should be topped up with G12++ or G13.
A car factory-filled (or flushed and refilled) with G13 should be topped up with G12++ or G13.

Always refer to the owner's manual on which coolant/s the vehicle should use.





Does anyone know or have experience in using the Penrite pink coolant? The label says its approved for VW and also mention equivalent to g12. Repco is currently having a sale on the 5l ones.

Penrite 4 Year Extended Drain (green) is approved for applications requiring G11 (VW TL-774 C).

Penrite 5 Year Extended Drain (magenta) is approved for applications requiring G12 (VW TL-774 D) and G12+ (VW TL-774 F).

If this is for your Mk2 Golf GTI, you could probably use any decent coolant that's on the shelf. I don't think a G12+ coolant is strictly necessary. Although if the price is right...

Tubbs76
16-06-2013, 05:17 AM
cool. In about 6 weeks, im getting my timing chain done. Ill hold on till then and get them to do a flush and go to G13.

Diesel_vert
16-06-2013, 07:37 AM
Even though one would always reco factory, to my knowledge, any pink / red coolant can be substituted. I find the toyota (red) coolant is very good and ran this for a while. comes mixed at 50/50 ratio. To be honest, there really is no difference between red and green coolant apart from the cost. one does not out perform the other. I know many people who have flushed their systems and have gone over to green for the simple fact that the long term running costs are far less.

Whoever told you all that is not strictly correct.

If we're talking in the context of older vehicles, then you could probably get away with that - but for modern vehicles, that just doesn't cut it.




Toyota Super Long Life Coolant
Mono-ethylene glycol hybrid coolant (OAT with reduced phosphates, but no silicates, nitrates, amines or borates) dyed pink.

Compare this with the VW coolants.




Traditional coolants that use inorganic additives, such as silicates and phosphates, tend to deplete much faster and require more frequent replacement intervals.

Newer coolants that use organic additives (organic acid technology or OAT) have significantly reduced depletion rates and require much less frequent replacement intervals.

Hybrid coolants use a combination of organic and inorganic additives.

Lobrid coolants use a combination of organic additives with a small amount of inorganic additives.

All four coolant types work well when used in their intended applications and when used as specified.




It is important to use the correct type of coolant specified for your vehicle, for reasons of material and additive compatibility, which affects corrosion resistance, deposit formation and, ultimately, component longevity (particularly aluminium and rubber swelling). There's more to coolants than just cooling.

Unless one hasn't already realised, the colour of the coolant is mostly arbitrary.

Always follow the manufacturer's instructions. Avoid mixing different coolant types unless stated otherwise.

In emergencies, it's simply best to top-up with water (preferably distilled or deionised) rather than mixing different coolant types.

Transporter
16-06-2013, 08:02 AM
Good explenation Diesel_vert, :)


Whoever told you all that is not strictly correct.
That's very politely said. :) I say who ever said that, he was wrong.



In emergencies, it's simply best to top-up with water (preferably distilled or deionised) rather than mixing different coolant types.

I agree, the chlorinated tap water will react with aluminium in the engine and the radiator.

Tubbs76
16-06-2013, 08:09 AM
Understood. Correct or not correct dependant on what context you are ref to. Either way, I'll def swap mine out for g13 when I get my chains done in about 6 weeks

kaanage
16-06-2013, 08:15 AM
Good explenation Diesel_vert, :)

Ditto

Here (http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.co m/VW_Audi_Coolant_Cooling_G12_Plus_G13_Antifreeze_Pu rple_Pink_Pentosin_Vaico_OAT_HOAT_Hybrid_Silicates _Phosphates_Glycerin.pdf) is some further good information on VW cooling systems by ECS Tuning - the only real difference between G13 and
G12++ is that 20% of the MEG has been replaced with glycerine for environmental improvements (toxicity and CO2 production).
It also explains why the small amount of silicates were added to G12++ (and G13)

Transporter
16-06-2013, 08:18 AM
Understood. Correct or not correct dependant on what context you are ref to. Either way, I'll def swap mine out for g13 when I get my chains done in about 6 weeks

I would stick with the G12++ which is more comon, and wouldn't mix them either, but that's only me. The flushing only needs to be done with the filtered/demineralized water, I wouldn't use the radiator flush or other chemicals unless there is oil contamination.

kaanage
16-06-2013, 09:05 AM
I would stick with the G12++ which is more comon, and wouldn't mix them either, but that's only me.

I'd go with the G13 since it is the newer standard and all new VAG vehicles use it so dealers are switching over to it. This will make it easier to avoid mixing with G12++ in the future (even though that seems perfectly safe to me).

Diesel_vert
17-06-2013, 02:02 AM
I'd go with the G13 since it is the newer standard and all new VAG vehicles use it so dealers are switching over to it. This will make it easier to avoid mixing with G12++ in the future (even though that seems perfectly safe to me).

After reviewing the literature again, you are indeed correct: G12++ can be used in applications requiring G13.

aprr32
18-06-2013, 08:57 AM
In our experience, and we see a lot of VAG cars, the ones that come in with the generic green coolant are the ones that have radiator and plastic coolant fitting leaks.Even worse is the heater core leaks which cost a fortune to repair.Use what VW/Audi tell you is right for your model and no added coolant leak/corrosion problems. Pete

Diesel_vert
18-06-2013, 10:48 AM
In our experience, and we see a lot of VAG cars, the ones that come in with the generic green coolant are the ones that have radiator and plastic coolant fitting leaks.Even worse is the heater core leaks which cost a fortune to repair.Use what VW/Audi tell you is right for your model and no added coolant leak/corrosion problems. Pete

The thread starter so far hasn't mentioned what car the coolant will be intended for, but if it's for the Mk2 Golf GTI, then I can't imagine the owner's manual (if it's still there after all these years) would advise anything too specific.

But I would broadly agree with your advice, especially when it comes to anything remotely modern.

Tubbs76
18-06-2013, 12:28 PM
Not that it matters, but I swapped out the green and went bck to red lol.. after reading all ths stuff, just didnt wantto risk it.

Diesel_vert
18-06-2013, 12:55 PM
Not that it matters, but I swapped out the green and went bck to red lol.. after reading all ths stuff, just didnt wantto risk it.

Is it for the Mk3 Golf VR6?

Not that there is anything wrong with G12 coolants, but depending on how old it is, it may not require it (assuming that G12 coolant was even invented back then).

If you've still got it lying around somewhere, does the owner's manual recommend anything specific?

Tubbs76
18-06-2013, 01:29 PM
Is it for the Mk3 Golf VR6?

Not that there is anything wrong with G12 coolants, but depending on how old it is, it may not require it (assuming that G12 coolant was even invented back then).

If you've still got it lying around somewhere, does the owner's manual recommend anything specific?

It was originally running G11, and then over time flushed out and ran G12 for many years. I only flushed the G12 out about 3 odd weeks ago and started running green again, more so to keep cost down while i was trying to find a leak somewhere since i since rectified (Would loose coolant slowly and need to be topped up every 4 days odd.) seeing as it was running G12, couldnt imagine there being an issue..You would think not anyway?? Yes, it is for a VR6. Well, mine is anyway. Not sure what car the person who originally posted is driving.

kaanage
18-06-2013, 01:32 PM
AFAICT, the higher spec (G12 onwards) coolant will only help - it will reduce the frequency of coolant flushing/replacement (arguably to zero) and will extend the life of your hoses and radiator.

The cost (as you noted) is the only possible downside and that should be paid back by the extended life of the G12 onwards coolants (assuming the leak is fixed ;)).

Tubbs76
18-06-2013, 01:55 PM
AFAICT, the higher spec (G12 onwards) coolant will only help - it will reduce the frequency of coolant flushing/replacement (arguably to zero) and will extend the life of your hoses and radiator.

The cost (as you noted) is the only possible downside and that should be paid back by the extended life of the G12 onwards coolants (assuming the leak is fixed ;)).

Hi, yes, is now fixed. Turned out that there were 3 seperate issues. First issue was the thermostat housing O ring was gone so was leaking. Next issue turned out to be one of the small hoses leading from the oil cooler to the Crack pipe had a hairline split which I eventually picked up on. the last issue was that one of the o rings in the oil cooler was gone. It was a process over period of weeks to trace the last 2 as there were no visible signs of leaks. So....Thermostat housing, flanges, thermostat, all o orings, crack pipe, all hoses and the o rings to the oil cooler have beeb replaced and now have no leaks what so ever. The simple reason I went over to the green again was the running cost of constantly having to top up while i did my head in trying to source the leaks as there was no visible signs. From what I could tell, apart from being cheaper, the green stuff has all the rust inhibitors and what not so I went with it. I havent noticed any difference in terms of cooling or performace. Either way, have flushed back out and run with red again..