Fitting tow bar and wiring to a Yeti with tow prep.

[joel0407]

Ok, so here’s the deal. I’ve red all sorts of thing on the net about Yeti Tow bars and wiring them. Most people in the UK seem to get the dealer to fit it because their dealers charge reasonable fee. Here in Australia however, dealers seem to think they have sold us an Audi and charge accordingly. My quote was $1700. So I decided to fit mine myself as I’m reasonably handy at these kinds of thing.

I have to say with all I’d red, the task seemed quite daunting Turns out that once I had the right information and parts, it couldn’t have been easier.

My first issue was getting the right parts. I ordered everything from PF Jones in the UK. PF Jones have been fantastic to deal with and it was with their help I managed to sort out the only problem I had.

These are the initial parts I ordered. The wiring kit is wrong as it’s for a Yeti without “Tow Prep”. There are a couple of different types of detachable tow bars. I went with the Witter Flange type but I believe the Westfalia or Witter standard type would be equally as good.

NOT FOR TOW PREP Superb Yeti 7 Pin Dedicated Wiring Kit 2009 on 19220508RC (http://www.pfjones.co.uk/superb-yeti-7-pin-dedicated-wiring-kit-2009-19220508rc.html)

Skoda Yeti 2009 on Detachable Flange tow bar (http://www.pfjones.co.uk/skoda-yeti-2009-on-detachable-flange-tow-bar.html)

3.5t 1" Jaw, Pin & Ball (http://www.pfjones.co.uk/3-5t-1-jaw-pin-and-ball.html)

Stainless Steel Bumper Protector (http://www.pfjones.co.uk/stainless-steel-bumper-protector.html)

I have never heard of a Australian delivered Yeti not having “Tow Prep”. Amongst other things, “Tow Prep” provides a connector in the back of the vehicle for the trailer wiring harness to connect to.

I was aware the connector for the tow wiring was behind the plastic panel on the left hand side of the vehicle. I had received everything from PF Jones prior to my Yeti being delivered but once I had my Yeti and the panel off I could not work out how the PF Jones wiring harness connected so I called them. Their tech department was great and quickly worked out the kit was for a vehicle without “Tow Prep” they couldn’t provide me with the correct wiring kit but were happy for me to send the kit back for a refund.

I called around a couple of dealers here in Australia for the genuine Skoda part “EEA 630 002 E4”. I was quoted $730 from Canberra and $530 from Nowra. My Yeti was in pieces and I didn’t want to put it back together to have to pull it apart again so I wanted to get the wiring kit ASAP. With some help from a member from Briskoda Forum, I was put in contact with a dealer in the UK. Royal Mail freight for 5 days deliver and 1kg was only 22 pound. The price from the UK with freight ended up being $265. Take that Australian Dealers.

So this is what arrived: (Sorry about rubbish photo)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040790_zpse48c36e6-1.jpg

With this control Unit:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040795_zps1c13830e-1.jpg

Here is where the control unit gets fitted.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040796_zpsd6e43943-1.jpg

Yep Here:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040799_zpsffa04ff7-1.jpg

The kit comes with these plugs and screws:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040801_zpsd9aec279-1.jpg

And they get fitted here:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040802_zps8645a852-1.jpg

Like this:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040803_zps095085ce-1.jpg

Then this red plug:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040804_zps27f5d5db-1.jpg

Found here:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040805_zps0c082299-1.jpg

Goes into the control unit like this:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040806_zpsaa85f398-1.jpg

And this plug from the harness goes into the other socket on the control unit:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040808_zps3529fd9d-1.jpg

Then the control unit goes here:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040807_zps4e48ce05-1.jpg

And the screws go in. The control unit has a slot in one end and a hole in the other so you can put the first screw in and then just slot the control unit behind the screw and tighten it after the second screw is in:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040809_zpsb162263c-1.jpg

Take the earth wire and put it under this bolt:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040811_zps1f3f7e6c-1.jpg

Like this:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040810_zps640ee37c-1.jpg

Then take these cable ties (supplied in the kit):
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040812_zpscb158c4e-1.jpg

and push them over the panel seem. Here:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040813_zps72ea09bd-1.jpg

Ok from here on is how to reassemble the panels. You can just reverse for the removal procedure. I was too busy being careful not to break the clips when I was dismantling. Turned out I didn’t need to worry. This clips are well designed and never looked like breaking. There are some tricks though to pull the panels in the right directions.

The main big panel has a clip here:, Just be sure to get the edge of the panel under the carpet.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040814_zpsf1ab62a1-1.jpg

2 screws here:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040815_zps2de5cded-1.jpg

2 here:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040816_zps3357cab0-1.jpg

[joel0407]

And one here:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040817_zps8a8e808a-1.jpg

And they are all here:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040818_zps5e272515-1.jpg

The hook rail has 3 screws:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040821_zps309685c1-1.jpg

Which are under this plastic strip:, I carefully lifted one end with a knife.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040822_zps8c961eb5-1.jpg

“C” Pillar cover has one screw at the top: There is no airbag under the little cover that says airbag. The airbag is under the roof lining.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040819_zpsab932ed6-1.jpg

The “C” Pillar cover slots in at the top and clips in at the bottom before the screw goes in:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040820_zpsa3bbb04e-1.jpg

The rear center panel: Red clips go down before the yellow clips go in then 2 screws in the holes circled in blue.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040823_zps0ef99be8-1.jpg

[joel0407]

I didn't take any photos with the bumper off or how the actual tow bar was fitted. It’s really simple though. The bumper comes off by removing these covers:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040826_zps033f1eba-1.jpg

Like this:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040825_zps3081749e-1.jpg

And then you can remove these nuts:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040824_zps1e737e3c-1.jpg

There are 4 plugs/clips under the bumper. 2 screws at the edges which join the bumper to the inner guard and that’s about it. The bumper is not much more than a cosmetic thing. There is nothing solid behind it, which is a good thing when someone bumps you in a car park. You might break a couple of clips but the plastic bumper should bounce back and since it’s not painted it shouldn’t show a scratch too bad.

Once the bumper is off, there is a pressed metal bar that needs to be removed. There are 3 screws in one end and 4 in the other, if I remember correctly. It gets chucked out.

The tow bar itself is very simple. There are 2 flat, vertical tongues that insert into the ends of the chassis. Then 2 bolts screw into the tongues from inside the wheel arches. There is a large square tube that runs across the back of the car with the socket for the tow hitch in the middle. All the bolts have torque settings so a Torque Wrench is needed to get the right tension on the bolts.
Here is the socket visible with the cover off:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040829_zpsd0e92ad6-1.jpg

And the cover on:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040828_zps6cea69ff-1.jpg

[joel0407]

I'll post some more tomorrow with the hitch in place and the socket screwed on.

Happy Days.

[Hillbilly]

Just a thought Is the towbar ADR compliant in Australia

[joel0407]

Just a thought Is the towbar ADR compliant in Australia

More compliant than most box trailers. The NSW rego on my 3 box trailers all say H/Made.

Happy Days.

[Hillbilly]

More compliant than most box trailers. The NSW rego on my 3 box trailers all say H/Made.

Happy Days.

Im not being flippant about it. You can get a box trailer certified for use on inspection.

Not so with an imported towbar which must be ADR approved to be legal.

Otherwise insurance payments may come into question should anything go wrong attributable to an illegal fitting.

Your car your life just pointing out the pitfalls.

After years of vanning cant believe what some people think is actually Ok when its not.

In NZ I made my own towbars but wouldnt try it here due to ramifications of something going wrong

[Transporter]

A nice write up. So, how much did all the parts cost you including shipping and how many hours did you spend fitting it? :)

[joel0407]

A nice write up. So, how much did all the parts cost you including shipping and how many hours did you spend fitting it? :)

All the bits from PF Jones were $844 delivered. I had ordered the wrong wiring kit from them though and had to order the correct kit from a UK Skoda dealer, it ended up being $265 deliverder. I haven't received the credit for the returned wiring kit to PF Jones yet.

The same wiring kit, I ordered from a UK Skoda Dealer was $730 in Canberra. The $265 included 5 day delivery with Royal Mail.

Happy Days.

[Transporter]

All the bits from PF Jones were $844 delivered. I had ordered the wrong wiring kit from them though and had to order the correct kit from a UK Skoda dealer, it ended up being $265 deliverder. I haven't received the credit for the returned wiring kit to PF Jones yet.

The same wiring kit, I ordered from a UK Skoda Dealer was $730 in Canberra. The $265 included 5 day delivery with Royal Mail.

Happy Days.

How long (how many hours) did it take you to install it? If you don't mind me asking? :)

[joel0407]

How long (how many hours) did it take you to install it? If you don't mind me asking? :)

It's just a bit of a hard question to answer. I went back to Bathurst, form Canberra, where I have a mate who owns a panel beating business so I could get him to remove rear bar. I was a bit worried about taking it off myself as I really hate plastic clips. After I saw how it is removed I would not hesatate in doing it myself next time. Once the side panels (shown in picture) are off, it's the nuts under them, 3 clips at the bottom and 2 screws.

Anyway after he took it off, I went back to my parents place and fitted the tow bar. That only took about 30 - 40 minutes, if that.

Then it took about 30 - 40 mintues to remove the spare wheel and the plastic panels inside the car. About this time I realised I had the wrong wiring kit. I left everything inside the car in peices, refitted the rear bar and returned to Canberra where I sorted out getting the right wiring kit. The kit took 5 days to deliver and less than 30 minutes to fit. Then it was about 30 - 40 miutes to put the plastic panels back in place, while taking photos.

I'm sure I could do it in under 3 hours if I had to do it again. Maybe even under 2.

Happy Days.

[Ocy_RS_TDi_Kombi]

Hayman Reese now sell a towbar for the Yeti. Its the 50mm square hitch and costs $612 from HR. A towbar place will charge another $200 - $300 to fit and wire it. Lots cheaper than what a Skoda dealer would charge!

[joel0407]

Hayman Reese now sell a towbar for the Yeti. Its the 50mm square hitch and costs $612 from HR. A towbar place will charge another $200 - $300 to fit and wire it. Lots cheaper than what a Skoda dealer would charge!

That's about what my Witter flange type bar cost, with wiring kit, delivered from the UK. The HR will have Australian compiance though.

Dont forget you can't just splice the wires to the vehicle lights. You need a dedicated wiring kit.

Does the HR require bumper cutting?

[Ocy_RS_TDi_Kombi]

That's about what my Witter flange type bar cost, with wiring kit, delivered from the UK. The HR will have Australian compiance though.

Dont forget you can't just splice the wires to the vehicle lights. You need a dedicated wiring kit.

Does the HR require bumper cutting?

I haven't spoken to anyone at HR but they would have the dedicated wiring as part of the kit.

Don't know about the bumper cutting, again a HR question.

[Blue103TDIDSG]

The HR will have Australian compiance though.

One of the main issues for me is compliance if I get, say a Westfalia towbar from the UK.
No problem if some business down the road imports it and I buy it from them because if it goes "pear shaped" I have them to point the finger at.
But if I buy it overseas and fit it myself the buck stops with me.

My mission statement is "must be hidden when not in use with bumper cutout refitted

So after a lot of searching, this is what have found

Starting with the World Forum for Harmonization of Vehicle Regulations
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Forum_for_Harmonization_of_Vehicle_Regulatio ns#Type_approval

Quote
__________________________________________________ ________________________________

Type Approval
The 1958 Agreement operates on the principles of type approval and reciprocal recognition. Any country that accedes to the 1958 Agreement has authority to test and approve any manufacturer's design of a regulated product, regardless of the country in which that component was produced. Each individual design from each individual manufacturer is counted as one individual type'. Once any acceding country grants a type approval, every other acceding country is obliged to honor that type approval and regard that vehicle or item of motor vehicle equipment as legal for import, sale and use. Items type-approved according to a UN Regulation are marked with an E and a number, within a circle. The number indicates which country approved the item, and other surrounding letters and digits indicate the precise version of the regulation met and the type approval number, respectively.
Although all countries' type approvals are legally equivalent, there are real and perceived differences in the rigour with which the regulations and protocols are applied by different national type approval authorities. Some countries have their own national standards for granting type approvals, which may be more stringent than called for by the UN regulations themselves. Within the auto parts industry, a German (E1) type approval, for example, is regarded as a measure of insurance against suspicion of poor quality or an undeserved type approval.

__________________________________________________ _________________________________


Where it all comes from and the design rules involved for the towbar are found here


UN Regulations (1958 Agreement)
Regs 41-60 - Transport - UNECE (http://www.unece.org/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs41-60.html)

Regulation No. 55 Revision 1
UNIFORM PROVISIONS CONCERNING THE APPROVAL OF MECHANICAL COUPLING
COMPONENTS OF COMBINATIONS OF VEHICLES
http://www.unece.org/fileadmin/DAM/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs/r055r1e.pdf

Quote
__________________________________________________ __________________________________


SCOPE

1.1. This Regulation lays down the requirements which mechanical coupling devices and components shall meet in order to be regarded internationally as being mutually compatible.

__________________________________________________ _________________________________



This is an excerpt from the certificate for the Westgalia towbar

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/09/IMG_zpsb7efe9a2-1.jpg (http://s261.photobucket.com/user/patochris/media/yeti/IMG_zpsb7efe9a2.jpg.html)

What it all means

The 55R - 01 2429
"55R" indicates the UN Regulation that applies and the "01" is the version that it is approved to
"2492" is the approval number

Type 317-117 is a Westfalia identification/design number

the Class A 50-X
"Class A" is the designated class of Coupling - Coupling balls and towing brackets employing a 50 mm diameter spherical device

"50-X" is the sub group for the 50mm Class - "Non-standard 50mm Coupling Heads"


__________________________________________________ __________________________________

Australia signed on 25th April, 2000 and is #45 on the list.

So the "E13" makes it approved in Luxembourg, thus also accepted by any of the signatories to the World Forum for Harmonization of Vehicle Regulations and that includes Australia.

Quote
"Every other acceding country is obliged to honor that type approval and regard that vehicle or item of motor vehicle equipment as legal for import, sale and use"

__________________________________________________ __________________________________

So that means the Westfalia as well as the Witter that Joel used, assuming and I'm sure that it will have a similar "E" compliance certificate, are OK and LEGAL to use in Australia as they are ADR approved by default.

In passing, the likes of IronBull would not be able to have every towbar they advertise and sell actually tested to meet the ADR's as the cost would be prohibitive. On the other hand though, any towbar designed and made here in Oz must be tested before it can be sold.

So for me, Westfalia it will be, which I believe from reading posts on the Briskoda forum, is the OEM towbar in the UK
[edit] Obviously the "E" certification is accepted in the UK

I am putting this here on the forum to maybe help any others that might have the same issues with the OEM (BestBars unit) supplied by Skoda Australia and might be considering getting something else cheaper and not hang out the back of the car.

[joel0407]

That's awesome. Thanks Blue.

[Boon]

Guys was wondering whether it's possible to tow a tinny or jet ski with a yeti tow bar since it's got a 2000kg capacity? I understand the ball can only take 80 or 90kgs hence the question.

[joel0407]

What's the weight of the Boat trailer on the draw bar?

Since you already have the Yeti specs, there the specs you need. Maybe you need to ask on a jet ski or boat forum.

Happy days

[Blue103TDIDSG]

Guys was wondering whether it's possible to tow a tinny or jet ski with a yeti tow bar since it's got a 2000kg capacity? I understand the ball can only take 80 or 90kgs hence the question.

Boon

I'm no "expert" in these matters but have been looking at this very issue since before we got our Yeti nearly 12 months back. The 80kg refers to down force on the ball, the actual load the trailer puts on the back of the car The result for us was that we had to decide to sell our caravan if we went ahead and got the Yeti because the ball weight was over 130kg even though the all up weight was 1400kg - well under the 2000kg limit

Can't imagine the all up weight of a jetski and trailer being anywhere near the 2000kg mark, so it is just the ball weight you need to look at and with a jetski and trailer you should be able to gauge the ball weight just by lifting tow coupling by hand as they are generally pretty well balanced to allow for maneuvering by hand.

I am restoring a boat trailer for a rubber duckie with a 30hp engine at the moment and it will be set up so that there will be about 25kgs on the ball. The ball weight of this trailer can be adjusted by moving the boat to change the balance point so it is no big deal, but I want it nice and light for hand maneuvering into a storage shed

It seems on heavier things like vans, the compliance plate has 2 weights, GVM and I think ATM (someone please correct me if I am wrong here) One is the all up weight that the vehicle can carry including the vehicle itself and the other is the weight the axle or axles can carry. Obviously one is higher than the other and the difference is the ball weight. Some compliance plates actually have the ball weight - I have seen both types.

The simplest way is to get some electronic bathroom scales and a piece of 3x2 timber about 15" long plus another couple of pieces of 3x2 about 6" long. Wind the jockey wheel down to where the van is level or better to the height it will be on the towball, insert the timber and scales under the coupling, then slowly raise the jockey wheel. When the jockey wheel is off the ground the scales will tell you the ball weight
Did this on my (old) caravan and a mates Adria - his came in at 52kg ball weight, mine came in at 132kg
Similar featured vans, mine Australian and his European - won't get into that argument here but the Yeti is obviously designed for the Euro van designs.

Hope this helps

[Boon]

Thanks blue! I've never had a tow bar before but looks like I'll get one installed down the track

[Transporter]

Some good towbars info here guys. :)

[allan2703]

Hello Joel,

I've accessed the same control unit which you used but am being told by the supplier (in Poland) that it needs to be wired up to under the dashboard even though the car is trailer prepped. There was nothing in your post to indicate this. Is your unit fully functional and has the car been recoded so that it detects the trailer? Congratulations on a brilliant post, by the way. It's the best and most thorough "how to" I've seen in a long time from any source.

[Hillbilly]

Boon

I'm no "expert" in these matters but have been looking at this very issue since before we got our Yeti nearly 12 months back. The 80kg refers to down force on the ball, the actual load the trailer puts on the back of the car The result for us was that we had to decide to sell our caravan if we went ahead and got the Yeti because the ball weight was over 130kg even though the all up weight was 1400kg - well under the 2000kg limit

Can't imagine the all up weight of a jetski and trailer being anywhere near the 2000kg mark, so it is just the ball weight you need to look at and with a jetski and trailer you should be able to gauge the ball weight just by lifting tow coupling by hand as they are generally pretty well balanced to allow for maneuvering by hand.

I am restoring a boat trailer for a rubber duckie with a 30hp engine at the moment and it will be set up so that there will be about 25kgs on the ball. The ball weight of this trailer can be adjusted by moving the boat to change the balance point so it is no big deal, but I want it nice and light for hand maneuvering into a storage shed

It seems on heavier things like vans, the compliance plate has 2 weights, GVM and I think ATM (someone please correct me if I am wrong here) One is the all up weight that the vehicle can carry including the vehicle itself and the other is the weight the axle or axles can carry. Obviously one is higher than the other and the difference is the ball weight. Some compliance plates actually have the ball weight - I have seen both types.

The simplest way is to get some electronic bathroom scales and a piece of 3x2 timber about 15" long plus another couple of pieces of 3x2 about 6" long. Wind the jockey wheel down to where the van is level or better to the height it will be on the towball, insert the timber and scales under the coupling, then slowly raise the jockey wheel. When the jockey wheel is off the ground the scales will tell you the ball weight
Did this on my (old) caravan and a mates Adria - his came in at 52kg ball weight, mine came in at 132kg
Similar featured vans, mine Australian and his European - won't get into that argument here but the Yeti is obviously designed for the Euro van designs.

Hope this helps

Here is quite a good explanation of vehicle and van weights Caravan / Trailer Compliance Plates and Weight Explanations (http://www.lets-getaway.com/caravan-complianceplates.htm)

However there is one glaring omission which lots of vanners don't observe or don't know about.

The towball weight on the vehicle is part of the payload.

Hence if you have a Landcruiser which has a payload of about 672kg it works like this Fuel 135kg, towball weight 275kg =410kg leaving you 262 kg for you and mum and any gear you have in the back. So you 100kg. mum 60kg leaves 102 kg for all the stuff in the back.

So don't even think about a roof rack (40kg) and a tinny ???? and an outboard stuck underneath it, 2 jerry cans of diesel in the back etc..

Been there done that. Went over weighbridge, went home dumped a heap of stuff and went touring.

Even worse if you have a Prado or a Nissan with reducing ball weight limits over a certain figure.

Not all will have a van with that much ball weight but ours was actually 300kg and 2900kg ATM.

[Lucas_R]

Nice write up. Ive actually just gone through the process of removing a towbar from my 2010 Golf GTI (car was purchased 2nd hand and we didn't need the towbar) and re-fitting it to another 2011 Golf 118TSI (forum member on here).

The wiring box on the left hand side of the boot, bumper removal etc etc is all very much the same. Some pics here of the towbar arrangement while the bumper if off incase its of interest to anyone: http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f24/genuine-vw-towbar-kit-mk5-mk6-golf-gti-93458-2.html#post1033098

It took me longer to remove the wiring from my GTI (as it all connects into the CECM under the dash) than it did to remove the actual towbar.

[joel0407]

Hello Joel,

I've accessed the same control unit which you used but am being told by the supplier (in Poland) that it needs to be wired up to "always waiting" under the dashboard even though the car is trailer prepped. There was nothing in your post to indicate this. Is your unit fully functional and has the car been recoded so that it detects the trailer? Congratulations on a brilliant post, by the way. It's the best and most thorough "how to" I've seen in a long time from any source.

Yes mate, I did have to have the car coded for the tow bar. As far as I can remember, the coding isn't to make the tow bar work it's just for the display and turning off the rear park sensors. Just installing the control box is enough for the stability control of the vehicle to work with a trailer. From memory, you know it's in trailer stability control mode from how long one of the lights takes to go out on the dash. I think it's the traction control light. I think normally it goes out in a second or so and once you connect a trailer, it takes longer.

Happy Days.

[allan2703]

Did your kit come wired for 7 pin or was it 13 pin?

[joel0407]

Did your kit come wired for 7 pin or was it 13 pin?

Pretty sure it's 13 pin but 7 wire.

Give me 5 minutes.

[joel0407]

Yep, 13 pin. They are an awesome plug. Those flat 7 pin rubbish that's so common in Australia is only used in Australia. As we are a little bit limited market, there aren't so many manufactures as no good ones.

The 13 pin euro plug being round has the cap screw in from the rear that squashes a rubber grommet around the cable and makes for a water tight seal. Even the connection of the plug from the trailer to the car is water proof. Hope that makes sense

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/03/E8D057BEF35F418BB260F1858464A070_zpsbif6-1.jpg (http://s560.photobucket.com/user/joel0407/media/Yeti%20tow%20bar/E8D057BE-F35F-418B-B260-F1858464A070_zpsbif675t6.jpg.html)

All tucks away hidden like this.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/03/83D72125D1454968968480821586C397_zps9cng-1.jpg (http://s560.photobucket.com/user/joel0407/media/Yeti%20tow%20bar/83D72125-D145-4968-9684-80821586C397_zps9cnga1jx.jpg.html)

Happy Days.

[joel0407]

Oh. Just remembered. They have a left and right tail light so you need to wire these together with diodes. If you just use one side for your tail lights, the canbus will show the other side is out.

[ploz58]

Nice write up, i was slack and ordered the tow bar with the new Yeti,

[joel0407]

Nice write up, i was slack and ordered the tow bar with the new Yeti,

Did you get the fully detachable bar?

How much did it cost?

Happy days.

[BJ75]

Nice write up, i was slack and ordered the tow bar with the new Yeti,
Me too. If I had access to a Doc Brown modified Delorean and a stretch of road to get up to 88mph I'd go back and tell myself NOT to order the factory towbar (made by Best Bars NZ I beleive) and just wait for HR to come out with one instead.

The Best Bars vertical hitch unit is - in summary - a total clusterf**k.

[joel0407]

Me too. If I had access to a Doc Brown modified Delorean and a stretch of road to get up to 88mph I'd go back and tell myself NOT to order the factory towbar (made by Best Bars NZ I beleive) and just wait for HR to come out with one instead.

The Best Bars vertical hitch unit is - in summary - a total clusterf**k.

I thought the word was HR made one now but it's a horizontal fit the same as there other bars?

I have no complaint at all about the Witter bar which I believe is identical to the Westfalia bar. It clips in solid as a rock and doesn't move about like a HR bar with the pin does.

Happy Days

[BJ75]

I thought the word was HR made one now but it's a horizontal fit the same as there other bars?
Indeed - this was not available when I purchased my Yeti early 2012. Hence the reference to the time-travelling Delorean (I grew up in the 80's .... "Back to the Future" pop-culture references are among my most commonly used).

Given the wiring's all done, I'm seriously considering ditching the actual bar on mine and just getting the HR bar, and trying to adapt the wiring into an Aussie rectangle plug. I could probably do this myself if they were able to be purchased separately.

[joel0407]

Given the wiring's all done, I'm seriously considering ditching the actual bar on mine and just getting the HR bar, and trying to adapt the wiring into an Aussie rectangle plug. I could probably do this myself if they were able to be purchased separately.

You can just make up an adapter. I thought I posted up a wiring diagram somewhere. You just need to consider there are left and right tail lights in the 13 pin plug. The plugs are cheap to buy online. As the 13 pin euro plug is far superior to the Aussie flat 7 pin, I considered changing my trailers over to the same and making a reverse adapter from 7 pin vehicle to 13 pin trailer. Then I thought it just too hard as my brother and old man both have the 7 pin flat as does the majority of the rest of Australia. I just carry the 13 pin vehicle to 7 pin flat trailer in the wheel well of the Yeti.

Happy Days.

[BJ75]

I just carry the 13 pin vehicle to 7 pin flat trailer in the wheel well of the Yeti.
I have one of those little adapter cords (about 20cm long with a 'squiggle' in the middle) - it came as part of the towbar prep.

I'm sure the 13 pin is superior, but as you point out - most of the rest of the country uses the 7pin, including the place I get my soil from and their free trailers to hire, Bunnings and their trailers, my cousin & my best mate - both of whom have trailers, and most of the camper trailers I've been looking at buying.

I think it just irked me that they charge so much for a towbar that's got a plug you can't use necessitating an adapter, and a hitch that's only really useful for the towball they supply.

Sure, I got a 90 degree hitch adapter that I use, but it looks stupid, and sits lower than a HR unit would I'm sure.

I think the Westfaila (sp?) and other units that completely fold away are far superior, but even then I'd prefer a square hitch since that what most bike racks use (including mine, and the one I'm planning to upgrade to soon, and probably the one I'll upgrade to after that as well).

Sorry ... bit of a rant.

[ploz58]

I had a VW towbar with my Tiguan, and it came with an adapter to go from the Euro plug to a 7 pin aussie plug.
Ill let you know when i pick the car up. Bar is supposed to be hidden when detached behind the tow bar plate?

One the subject of towing, has any developed a reasonably priced Black Box to allow trailers with LED lights to be used, without sending up fault codes, My tiggy did this and im assuming the Yeti will do the same, I hope im wrong.

[joel0407]

I have one of those little adapter cords (about 20cm long with a 'squiggle' in the middle) - it came as part of the towbar prep.

I'm sure the 13 pin is superior, but as you point out - most of the rest of the country uses the 7pin, including the place I get my soil from and their free trailers to hire, Bunnings and their trailers, my cousin & my best mate - both of whom have trailers, and most of the camper trailers I've been looking at buying.

I think it just irked me that they charge so much for a towbar that's got a plug you can't use necessitating an adapter, and a hitch that's only really useful for the towball they supply.

Sure, I got a 90 degree hitch adapter that I use, but it looks stupid, and sits lower than a HR unit would I'm sure.

I think the Westfaila (sp?) and other units that completely fold away are far superior, but even then I'd prefer a square hitch since that what most bike racks use (including mine, and the one I'm planning to upgrade to soon, and probably the one I'll upgrade to after that as well).

Sorry ... bit of a rant.

For a bike carrier you could have looked at the Witter Flange bar like I have. You can fit various balls and bike carriers. It's the norm in EU.

As for the plug. I wish the Aussie flat 7 pin rubbish thing would go away. I, along with just about every one I know has problems with them. Partly because they are on old box trailers and the like that only get use once or twice a year but mainly because, none of them are water proof and the pins eventually get squashed and don't make connection. I just hate them but continue to use them because that's what everyone else has and I'd create more of a problem for myself trying to change.

Happy Days.

[ploz58]

Got my Yeti, the tow bar goose neck when not fitted, fits in the under boot storage,
The goose neck has a large foam collar to stop rattle when the goose neck is on.
A 30 pin euro plug is fitted, i recieved a 30 pin lead with a 7 pin flat plug for my trailers, Looking on Ebay there are heaps of quite cheaply priced $12.00AUD adapters from 30 pin and with a 7 pin round socket on the other side.

[BJ75]

For a bike carrier you could have looked at the Witter Flange bar like I have. You can fit various balls and bike carriers. It's the norm in EU.
Yeah I liked the look of the Witter unit for that flange option. But I still would've had to get a square hitch adapter welded up to bolt onto that flange. I'm not a fan of the types of racks that bolt onto that flange, nor the ball mounted ones that are similar. The style of racks I prefer (including the one I ended up buying) all slide into a horizontal square hitch.

[Ryeman]

Any pics of the genuine item showing ready to tow?
Quoted $995 (max tow weight) for fitted HR on site
". $1360 dealer fitted genuine.
Mine has rear sensors, can't make up my mind, suspect the HR is heavier.

[Blue103TDIDSG]

Thought I might throw in my Towbar update

I went ahead and got the Westfalia towbar from the UK
Did try and get everything, the towbar and electrics kit for towbar prep from a dealer in the UK
but in the end he couldn't get the freight worked out so I bit the bullet and got the towbar from P F Jones and went for a locally supplied electrics kit from Ironbull

The good thing with the delay since all this started was that P F Jones have now dropped £30 off the freight to Oz.
So the towbar was just over £200 and freight was £150 - with conversion charges, around AUD$550 (from memory)
All happened with no fuss and it arrived a day before they said it would
Box was very banged up but all was still inside and was OK
The towbars are built like a battleship so I doubt you could do damage if you tried
Anyway, now all done, works well and relatively easy install with the instructions that came with the towbar and Joel's post

Special thanks to Joel for the instructions for dismantling the rear of the Yeti at the beginning of this thread
A real BIG help - getting that little "Airbag" cover out without marking it proved a bit of a challenge
Used a sharp fruit knife in the end and no marks at all

The electrics kit from Jeff at Ironbull was $240
Handy as he is 5 minutes down the road from me and is very helpful
Although he seems to have completely disappeared ??
Adjoining businesses said it was "personal issues"
Anyway he is not answering the phone and his Website is down as well
Which is a bit of a bummer as mine still had to be coded

Jimmy at Alba European came to my rescue and got it working but it still throws up a "light out" error
The rear sensors disconnect so I assume the stability program get changed as well
Will get the light out problem sorted at next service

So the total cost for me was $790 and was fitted without any hassles with help from my son
A long way from the $1300 I was quoted by Skoda dealer to supply the Bestbars unit, supposedly "at cost" for me to fit
or $1600 fitted - and of course you throw away the removable panel as it will no longer fit !!
Not likely !!

I ran with a large round 7 pin socket from Jeff as this is what is on our new caravan.
Just made an adaptor to fit to the flat plugs that are on all the other trailers I use (same as everyone else !!)

New van has electric brakes, so I was up for another $93 for an electric brake controller plus I had to fit it along with the battery charge cable front to back. Also ran a 75ohm cable for a camera incase I want to fit one later, Not going to pull it all apart again !! But that's another story

Anyway some photos -

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/04/P1020145_zpscae37fb9-1.jpg (http://s261.photobucket.com/user/patochris/media/yeti/Tow%20Bar/P1020145_zpscae37fb9.jpg.html)

I fitted the control box at the bottom of the rear compartment so that if it ever has to come out I will only have to remove the central rear panel plus a screw and then pull the side panel out to get access. Hope it never happens though

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/04/P1020146_zpsef7fa895-1.jpg (http://s261.photobucket.com/user/patochris/media/yeti/Tow%20Bar/P1020146_zpsef7fa895.jpg.html)

Secured all the wires with cable ties

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/04/P1020129_zps09c86f84-1.jpg (http://s261.photobucket.com/user/patochris/media/yeti/Tow%20Bar/P1020129_zps09c86f84.jpg.html)

All finished with tow coupling fitted - height is perfect for box trailer and Jurgen caraven

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/04/P1020127_zps8fe74593-1.jpg (http://s261.photobucket.com/user/patochris/media/yeti/Tow%20Bar/P1020127_zps8fe74593.jpg.html)

Coupling removed - love that panel back in place

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/04/P1020125_zpsb41cdba7-1.jpg (http://s261.photobucket.com/user/patochris/media/yeti/Tow%20Bar/P1020125_zpsb41cdba7.jpg.html)

Swan Neck fits perfectly in the storage box

[joel0407]

Jimmy at Alba European came to my rescue and got it working but it still throws up a "light out" error
The rear sensors disconnect so I assume the stability program get changed as well
Will get the light out problem sorted at next service

Hey mate,

Firstly sorry for not getting back to you on your PM but I think you have my number so call me if you still need any info.

As for the stability program. It's stretching my memory but the stability program is adjusted by just having the tow unit installed (you don't need it coded). You know by how long it takes for the traction control light to go out on the dash. It takes longer with trailer stability program. Don't quote me on these times but Pre getting mine coded, it took something like 2 seconds for the light to go out after starting but with a trailer attached, it took 5 seconds (just an example).

Coding is just so the rear park sensors turn off and you get a cool picture of a Yeti with a trailer attached on the stereo. Oh and light circuit monitoring.

As for you light out. I'm going to have a stab in the dark here and guess you didn't consider the UK wiring has left and right tail lights. To fix it, you can either just add a resistor to create a load for the missing light or use diodes to connect the 2 together as I did.

Happy Days

[Blue103TDIDSG]

Hey mate,

Firstly sorry for not getting back to you on your PM but I think you have my number so call me if you still need any info.
No prob, thanks Joel



Coding is just so the rear park sensors turn off and you get a cool picture of a Yeti with a trailer attached on the stereo. Oh and light circuit monitoring..
Sadly not with mine - you will remember the fiasco with the Zenec GPS
(http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f157/bad-experience-bryan-byrt-mt-gravatt-79380.html )
Still not coded properly - never let Bryan Byrt mob have another go
so the Bluetooth doesn't work, which doesn't worry me that much, but nor does much else -
I contacted Zenec and they didn't even reply to the email
So there's one for customer service
Only gripe with GPS is it has trouble working out when it is day and night
gets "stuck" in day mode so some times it is very bright inside the car LOL
Have to manually set it to "night" - otherwise not a bad GPS



As for you light out. I'm going to have a stab in the dark here and guess you didn't consider the UK wiring has left and right tail lights. To fix it, you can either just add a resistor to create a load for the missing light or use diodes to connect the 2 together as I did.

I remembered seeing your post and the diodes are a great idea
Didn't have any diodes at the time so I just joined the left and right together so I guessing this is the problem
now have some diodes so will fit them and see what happens

Apart from that the Yeti tows fine - box trailer and boat are effortless
Have only done a short run with the new caravan and there were no hills, so not a real test
But acceleration from rest is as though it's not there - I was quite surprised
Tried it in sports mode but on the flat just put it back in "D" although it stays much of the time in 5th gear
Suspect in hilly country sports mode will work better - any advice would appreciated on this

[joel0407]

Yep, Sorry, I meant coding in relation to the tow bar. Coding actually does heaps of stuff and as many VAG Vehicles use the same software, there are heaps of of options that don't actually work with the Yeti but the options are availible in the software. I have needle sweep (all the needles on the dash like the speedo and tacho sweep when you turn the car on) and fog lights as coming home lights (it's easier on the Bi-Xenons). I had a couple of other things changed but I can't remember what they were now. I just got them done when I got the Tow coding.

Happy Days.

[Skooter]

Fantastic info with pics - when I did my Octavia Scout I found a few really useful pics on Octy bodywork in Briskoda. Big respec for you guys who spend the time to bring us detailed info.

I bought my entire kit from Jeff at Ironbull. There was only one drama and that was the wiring kit - it was for a non trailer prep, which should have been no prob, but Jeff's instructions were for UK wiring and I had German wiring; we sussed this after determining that his wiring colour info didn't correspond to what i had in my hands. Sorted it by talking to him while seated in the spare wheel well, looking at what i had in front of me!

i would have liked the right wiring harness, but cutting down and fitting pin connectors wasn't really a prob. The kit he sold seems to specify NOT to set it up in the CPU for trailer hitch??? It even came with a sticker so service personnel wouldn't mess with it. Which is odd, as obviously the rev sensors scream whenever we reverse. I have no idea about stability control - feels great towing and we don;t do that much of it.

Stealership quotes are over the top. Jeff actually travels interstate fitting for VAG and Merc dealerships. Hope he's back on the scene soon.

[joel0407]

There was only one drama and that was the wiring kit - it was for a non trailer prep, which should have been no prob, but Jeff's instructions were for UK wiring and I had German wiring; we sussed this after determining that his wiring colour info didn't correspond to what i had in my hands. Sorted it by talking to him while seated in the spare wheel well, looking at what i had in front of me!

i would have liked the right wiring harness, but cutting down and fitting pin connectors wasn't really a prob. The kit he sold seems to specify NOT to set it up in the CPU for trailer hitch??? It even came with a sticker so service personnel wouldn't mess with it. Which is odd, as obviously the rev sensors scream whenever we reverse. I have no idea about stability control - feels great towing and we don;t do that much of it.

Stealership quotes are over the top. Jeff actually travels interstate fitting for VAG and Merc dealerships. Hope he's back on the scene soon.

I tried to get info of Jeff early on but didn't get anywhere. Reading your story makes me glad I went the way I did.

I have never heard of different wiring for different parts of the world. There is tow prep or no tow prep. Either the plug is in the back or you need to run cabling all the way to the front.

The "NOT to set it up in the CPU for trailer hitch" worries me. Sounds to me like it doesn't interface with the canbus at all?

Happy Days.

[Skooter]

It interfaces totally (otherwise nothing would work!) - the long non-trailer prep wiring has about 8 more wires than are required. The diff b/w German and British is that Germany requires the brake lights to be wired slightly differently (I think with a failsafe if the Canbus doesn't function or L & R separately). So the issue was that the German colour coding wasn't the same. Basically I removed about 4 metres of cable and used only 5 wires to the Canbus unit that comes with all trailer hitch kits. Obviously I would have much preferred a simple plug end and correct length, but it works fine.

As for the VCDS settings stuff - I'm a little baffled - if Jeff was around i try and get an answer from him; if we used the trailer every day i would definitely look into it!

[joel0407]

It interfaces totally (otherwise nothing would work!) - the long non-trailer prep wiring has about 8 more wires than are required. The diff b/w German and British is that Germany requires the brake lights to be wired slightly differently (I think with a failsafe if the Canbus doesn't function or L & R separately). So the issue was that the German colour coding wasn't the same. Basically I removed about 4 metres of cable and used only 5 wires to the Canbus unit that comes with all trailer hitch kits. Obviously I would have much preferred a simple plug end and correct length, but it works fine.


All of Europe has separate left and right tail lights. I'm happy to be corrected if you can share a link that says they are different.
Here is the 13 pin euro plug that is standard Skoda: Tow Bracket Wiring from Adrian Tyldesley (http://www.caravanrepair.com/electricwiring.shtml)

It sounds to me like it interfaces one way. In that I mean it reads the canbus signal and turns the lights on but it doesn't talk to the car. It only listens and hides. CANBUS is a standard so it could just be a generic unit that will work with many different brands of vehicle.



if Jeff was around i try and get an answer from him

That was why I gave up on him.

Happy Days.

[Blue103TDIDSG]

Hey guys

Just Googled "Ironbull Towbars" and nothing came up
Website has "gone"

Sadly seems that is the end of Jeff
I found him most helpful albeit sometimes a bit hard to get hold of him

[Gazman]

I know this is an old post, but a Google search brought me here. In Australia, I have been quoted anywhere from $1602.00 to $1939.15 for the supply and installation of a tow bar for my MY15 Yeti. On top of this, the dealership charges $45 a day for a loan car. Is it worth having a Skoda dealership install a tow bar or should I explore my options if there are any?

[Makofthetribe]

I didn't take any photos with the bumper off or how the actual tow bar was fitted. It’s really simple though. The bumper comes off by removing these covers:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040826_zps033f1eba-1.jpg

Like this:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040825_zps3081749e-1.jpg

And then you can remove these nuts:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040824_zps1e737e3c-1.jpg

There are 4 plugs/clips under the bumper. 2 screws at the edges which join the bumper to the inner guard and that’s about it. The bumper is not much more than a cosmetic thing. There is nothing solid behind it, which is a good thing when someone bumps you in a car park. You might break a couple of clips but the plastic bumper should bounce back and since it’s not painted it shouldn’t show a scratch too bad.

Once the bumper is off, there is a pressed metal bar that needs to be removed. There are 3 screws in one end and 4 in the other, if I remember correctly. It gets chucked out.

The tow bar itself is very simple. There are 2 flat, vertical tongues that insert into the ends of the chassis. Then 2 bolts screw into the tongues from inside the wheel arches. There is a large square tube that runs across the back of the car with the socket for the tow hitch in the middle. All the bolts have torque settings so a Torque Wrench is needed to get the right tension on the bolts.
Here is the socket visible with the cover off:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040829_zpsd0e92ad6-1.jpg

And the cover on:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040828_zps6cea69ff-1.jpg

Did you have to recode the electrics, if so how?

[Makofthetribe]

Joel

Which uk dealer did you get towprep module wiring kit from and did you have to get it coded by skoda after fitting?



There are 4 plugs/clips under the bumper. 2 screws at the edges which join the bumper to the inner guard and that’s about it. The bumper is not much more than a cosmetic thing. There is nothing solid behind it, which is a good thing when someone bumps you in a car park. You might break a couple of clips but the plastic bumper should bounce back and since it’s not painted it shouldn’t show a scratch too bad.

Once the bumper is off, there is a pressed metal bar that needs to be removed. There are 3 screws in one end and 4 in the other, if I remember correctly. It gets chucked out.

The tow bar itself is very simple. There are 2 flat, vertical tongues that insert into the ends of the chassis. Then 2 bolts screw into the tongues from inside the wheel arches. There is a large square tube that runs across the back of the car with the socket for the tow hitch in the middle. All the bolts have torque settings so a Torque Wrench is needed to get the right tension on the bolts.
Here is the socket visible with the cover off:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040829_zpsd0e92ad6-1.jpg

And the cover on:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/01/P1040828_zps6cea69ff-1.jpg[/QUOTE]

[MarkCros]

What an old but very useful topic. I searched the Internet for a long time for information on installing a towbar on a Skoda Yeti, but this forum turned out to be the most informative. Thanks to the author for spending his time and making the necessary photos and comments in the topic. As I understand it, when buying original electrical wiring, no adaptation of the control unit is needed.