do it yourself oil,air,fuel change

[RRRRIT]

how easy is it do change the oil,air and fuel filter on the scirocco r?
just watched something on youtube and it seems like you need alot of special tools,god damn german made lol

[RW1]

Fairly straight forward if you have mechanical familiarity with servicing a car, no special tools other than Torx set and hose clip pliers but its more involved then the 1.4's and 2.0 GT's.

Oil - Filter 06D 115 562, includes the rubber seal with it. Open type element fitted into the housing on the engine. Cap is torqued to 25Nm. Oil is 4.6ltrs of 504/502 standard with new filter (4.0 without filter change), 504 is flexi service interval, 502 standard is fixed interval requirements. You may have to disconnect an electrical connector to get the filter housing cap off. Sump plug bolt is 30Nm.

Airfilter - Filter is 06F 133 835K. Its in the back of the engine cover. There is a note to renew the engine cover rubber "buffers" 4 off - 036 129 689B (these won't be cheap). (They are renewed whenever the cover is lifted.)

With the engine cover underside up on the bench, loosen the 4 bolts on the back of (of engine relative) the smaller attached cover and remove, now loosen the 9 bolts located around the rest of the underside of the cover and remove this larger underside cover which effectively splits the cover into two halves. Now you can remove the air filter.

Refitting all together, the trick with the airfilter is to fit it into the upper half of the cover rear edge lugs into the lower half and then with your turning hinge on the rear end side, turn the upper cover into the lower half and press it on.

The bolts are all 3Nm torque but avoid using an electric tool as they are in plastic and are self tapping. Basically the filter is meant to be changed infrequently at 60,000Km, so the self taping won't last long if done fairly often.

Fuel Filter - Filter should be part no. 1K0 201 051K. Located by the right side of the fuel tank just forward/in board of the right rear tyre. It has 3 push on fuel pipe connectors (engine out, fuel tank in & fuel return) which are released by pushing in the two opposing side tabs. The circular mounting clip to release the filter is torque 3Nm.

The fuel as usual will be under retained pressure levels, so expect some to come out under pressure when the first connection is broken. Typically it should have reached a minimum of 3 bar after 10 minutes when de-coupling after this time point. The fuel system at this area runs anywhere between 4 bar & 7 bar when in use.

Refitting fuel connections.... ensure the connectors push home and clip on the filter connections positively.

Petrol Fuel filter is not a service item, ie. it is not maintained on a regular schedule, only changed on a unscheduled workshop visit. Normally regarded as 100,000 mile change item unless there is a problem with the fuel being used, ie. contamination. Or has become gummed up due to the car being prolonged storage out of use, ie. 6 months plus. These types/size filters I usually change at 60,000 miles under normal usage.

.................................................. ...................................

You may also consider the Aircon Pollen Filter as its a 2 year service item.

The Spark Plugs have been troublesome on the R, even at distances below 15Km. This has caused misfiring.

Pollen Filter - Part is 1K2 819 653B - Activated Charcoal type so it should be light grey in the clear wrapper, not lily white. Charcoal removes the smelly whiffs. There is an alternative specified as 1K2 819 644B so check as this is the plain lily white one not to use.

Easy to do. On the underside of the glovebox, you will find a grey foam sheet covering the air outlet pipes. Locate the two plastic button bolts that stop the centre area flopping. Unscrew, carefully remove the foam sheet. In the most forward inboard part of the footwell area under the dash there is a panel about 20cm long by 4 cm wide. Slide this sideways and the filter vertically drops out. I recommend you put a open newspaper or similar into the footwell as "bits" will fall out as the cover and pollen filter comes out. Pop the new one on the cover lugs and offer up the cover and filter in a turning action into the the filter housing. Slide the cover to lock.

Spark Plugs - Plugs are 4 years or 60,000Km. Part number is 101 905 631H, gapped at 0.7mm - 0.8mm. Alternatives found good are NGK BKR7EIX which is a slightly different temperature from the "6" fitted.

Spark plugs are torqued to 25Nm.

Coil Packs come out with a T40039 VW tool if you want to look it up on Google. Looks like this T40039, IGNITION COIL PULLER (http://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemid=26570007) but a couple of crossed over closed loop cable tie "tie-wraps" should do the trick. Be careful not to damage the coil pack head visible on top of the engine as there are "potted" electronics inside which crushing could damage.

There will be white tacky grease around inside the coil pack and on the spark plug insulators. This is G 052 141 A2 and is not cheap (£20 UK for a small 20g tube). Do not remove it and transfer as much as you can to the new plug insulators. Its water proofing and aids coil pack removal.


What else..... probably not a lot

Brakes
The brake fluid (FMVSS 116 DOT 4) is 3 years first change and every 2 years subsequently, same as any normal ABS brakes system with a bleeder tool. 1.0 litres of fluid is sufficient if you are efficient at the 5 bleed points.

Bleeding Order is:
1 - Front left brake caliper (0.3 ltrs)
2 - Front right brake caliper (0.3 ltrs)
3 - Rear left brake caliper (0.2 ltrs)
4 - Rear right brake caliper (0.2 ltrs)

Don't forget the slave cylinder over by the manual gearbox, (0.1 ltrs)

.................................................. .................................................. ............

I've left out:
6 speed DSG Gearbox filter and oil change at 60,000Km,
Camshaft Belt is 180,000Km.

==================================================

Verify the part numbers with the dealers as there is a split in the R production build standard.

Your turn now, you can do the photoguide :)

[AdamD]

Great post RW1! :thumbsup:

[RRRRIT]

Thanks for the info,I wonder why servicing is so high damn what a pain in the arse,what happened to the good old days,oil out,twist off filter,open airbox and away you go I think I'll change the oil but the rest ill leave to my mechanic.
I'm changing the oil filter housing to aluminum as they are prone to crack,changing the drain plug to magnetic one,chucking in some motul oil and that's it for my part.

[RRRRIT]

oil change done using motul,i had some issues doing it the first time but after that its easy.
first of all make sure you buy the oil drain tool cause oil pissed out everywhere once i removed the cannister.
second of all dont overfill it cause oil pissed out of the cannister once i test drove it after the change,takes 4.6 no more to mine 4.8+ opps.
drained a little out of the new ecs aluminum housing kit and whala no more leakage,also added a ecs magnetic drain plug.
old oil was that thick and its only done 6800 but being an ex demo and a 2011 means its been through alot i reckon.
next mod is to take off the ugly engine cover and replace it with a vwr intake and maybe add a forge oil catch can too.