golf mk4 q'z

[Rick]

Hey guys,

First time using this forum but just some queries I have about the MK4 Golf.
Iv been researching all types of cars but each car i look at seems to always have a problem which is always costly to fix (i.e. european cars being the only im interested in!). Iv been researching the MK4 Golfs recently and found them to be quite a nice car, both inside and out. Yet to actually drive one, I have been a bit skeptical to do so as I have read that a number of problems that occur with this car, mainly mechanical problems, the transmission in particular.
Although the other problems such as accessory quality are an issue, im more concerned about the reliability of the mechanics of this car as I do quite a bit of driving.
So just a few questions to clear the air before I even go out and test drive one.
1. What transmission in these cars are known to be more reliable? Manual or auto?
2. Whatever the transmission, are there any upgrades available to 'strengthen' the transmission and at what approximate costs?
3. What other major issues are prone to occur with this vehicle and at what cost?
:???:
Much appreciation for your feedback as it will make my decision much easier.

Thanks
Rick

[SoVeReIgN]

I don't know much about the Autos, but if you're worried about gearbox strength avoid the 1.6 manual, it has a relatively weak gearbox and was the most likely to fail. (Although not too common anyway)
The 1.8(rare), 2L and GTI (1.8Turbo) have stronger boxes.

Otherwise, there aren't any major mechanical problems - Because most of the mechanics are shared across the entire VAG range (Audi, VW, Seat, Skoda etc) they tend to be pretty bulletproof.
VAG put the 1.8T in so many cars its rediculous, and they still use it to day in the VW Polo and Audi A4. (In Aus, more models overseas)

[mikinoz]

Nice to see that you are exploring the MKIV - they are a great car and make you feel safe and in a quality driving environment.

As for gearboxes, 1.6 were probe to failure in manual config - however I had one for 3 years in which time the car was driven hard, although I nursed the gearbox with gentle down shifts etc, and had no mechanical issues at all.

Other things to watch for are cars under 100K that have a plastic water pump that should be replaced for a metal one when you get the 100K service done.

Apart from that, ask around and people will give you good advice.

[Rick]

see those are the ones im looking at, the 1.6lt manual models. Most of them are selling theirs for around $10g but im not willing to pay $10g for a lemon. I have a $12g budget so what I was thinking is if I can pick one up for about $8-$9g I could invest the rest into making the transmission decent so I wouldnt have to replace it every '10,000ks' as people claim. Does anyone know of a volkswagen specialist in the Melbourne area?

[Cache]

Hmmmm....12g budget, save for a few months and pick up a MK4 GTI for 15-16k.

[SoVeReIgN]

see those are the ones im looking at, the 1.6lt manual models. Most of them are selling theirs for around $10g but im not willing to pay $10g for a lemon. I have a $12g budget so what I was thinking is if I can pick one up for about $8-$9g I could invest the rest into making the transmission decent so I wouldnt have to replace it every '10,000ks' as people claim. Does anyone know of a volkswagen specialist in the Melbourne area?



There isn't any point removing a box to make it stronger unless it has died. If you want to take this option (A silly one IMO) buy a 1.6 manual and keep your 2~3k in the bank just incase something goes wrong.
Chances are it won't and you'll get interest on your money.

But that still sounds silly to me, spend the extra on a 2L manual or a GTI if you want to save up for a more complete car. :)

[phaeton]

Welcome to VWwA Rick j:

[Rick]

There isn't any point removing a box to make it stronger unless it has died. If you want to take this option (A silly one IMO) buy a 1.6 manual and keep your 2~3k in the bank just incase something goes wrong.
Chances are it won't and you'll get interest on your money.

But that still sounds silly to me, spend the extra on a 2L manual or a GTI if you want to save up for a more complete car. :)

What about an auto conversion? what would one of them set me back?

[SoVeReIgN]

What about an auto conversion? what would one of them set me back?

A royal ****load more than buying an auto one from the beginning :)

[Rick]

A royal ****load more than buying an auto one from the beginning :)

hahaha...im screwed either way. If I do an auto conversion its gonna cost me a **** load and it could bust up after a few thousand K's, or I could just save the cash, keep the car a manual and foot a huge bill when that one fails.
Alls ive read is bad owner reviews on these cars:
www.carsurvey.org
With the only positive reviews coming from owners who kept them for less than 50,000k's and were most probably under lease agreement so they didnt have to foot any major bills...such a shame that VW didnt keep up the rep. of building a reliable car because they are designed in such a way that their looks lure you in.

[spritle]

I've have had my 2000 Mk4 1.6 manual since new.

gearbox went at 86K kms, due to the dodgy alluminium rivets VW put into the diff (they wear and then the remainder pops out and goes trashing around the 'box).

New gearbox was around $4K.

There is a kit from VW to replace the alloy rivets with bolts, and I did have the 'box checked if it had it, and the mechanic said it did but obviously it didn't.... but that's another matter.


Buying new, would I have bought the 1.8 20v or 2.0? Maybe, but new it was $6K more.

Buying used, it is a bit more risky, and I'm not sure when the factory changed the diff's alloy rivets to bolts on the production line. So for a marginal cost, it'll be a safer bet to go to a 1.8 20v or 2.0 (though 2.0's may drink a bit of oil).


cheers

[h100vw]

[

Buying used, it is a bit more risky, and I'm not sure when the factory changed the diff's alloy rivets to bolts on the production line. So for a marginal cost, it'll be a safer bet to go to a 1.8 20v or 2.0 (though 2.0's may drink a bit of oil).


cheers[/QUOTE]

They have used rivets for years. I doubt they have put bolts in all of a sudden.

Get a 2 litre and avoid the worry.

Gavin

[Rick]

"There is a kit from VW to replace the alloy rivets with bolts, and I did have the 'box checked if it had it, and the mechanic said it did but obviously it didn't.... but that's another matter."

When did they introduce the kit? and at what cost?

Also, the $4K for a new gearbox, did that include installation?

[golf-kart]

Considering the purchase of a mint 2001 MkIV 1.6 Gen. with 60,000km.
I am a little worried about gearbox failure associated with this model.

Found some info here (http://www.btinternet.com/~a_hutton/VW_Gearbox_Failure.htm).

Has anyone had any experience with this bolt kit to replace the standard differential rivets? Who are the suppliers in Australia? Cost?

I am thinking prevention is better than cure!

Cheers! :)


I've have had my 2000 Mk4 1.6 manual since new.

gearbox went at 86K kms, due to the dodgy alluminium rivets VW put into the diff (they wear and then the remainder pops out and goes trashing around the 'box).

New gearbox was around $4K.

There is a kit from VW to replace the alloy rivets with bolts, and I did have the 'box checked if it had it, and the mechanic said it did but obviously it didn't.... but that's another matter.


Buying new, would I have bought the 1.8 20v or 2.0? Maybe, but new it was $6K more.

Buying used, it is a bit more risky, and I'm not sure when the factory changed the diff's alloy rivets to bolts on the production line. So for a marginal cost, it'll be a safer bet to go to a 1.8 20v or 2.0 (though 2.0's may drink a bit of oil).


cheers

[h100vw]

You buy the bolts from VW