New oil filter with every oil change?

[Pawnii]

Hi all,

I've tried the search and couldn't find any thread in the first few pages that answers my question.

Should I change the oil filter with every oil change? I'm planning to do the oil every 7.5km or 10km.
Also, what about air filter and fuel filter? should i change them when ever i change the oil?

I've got a 2006 B6 Passat Wagon 2.0 TDI that' got 110km on it.

I've only owned the car for 2 months.... and love it:)

[mikinoz]

The filter is $15 and take 400ml of oil. Your call.

I do it every change.

[Transporter]

Hi all,

I've tried the search and couldn't find any thread in the first few pages that answers my question.

Should I change the oil filter with every oil change? I'm planning to do the oil every 7.5km or 10km.
Also, what about air filter and fuel filter? should i change them when ever i change the oil?

I've got a 2006 B6 Passat Wagon 2.0 TDI that' got 110km on it.

I've only owned the car for 2 months.... and love it:)

Yes, that's right new oil - new oil filter.

I wouldn't leave the old filter and just put new oil in there. The reason why you changing the oil at 7,500km is because you want your engine last longer in better condition, so why not do it right and change the filter as well?
I do the fuel and air filters in our Golf5 TDI every 20,000km. The service schedules as they are written have much longer servicing intervals and have just a note somewhere that when driving under severe driving conditions change the filters more often. Then many car owners are not even asked where they drive and how often. It seems like the dealers don't care. I see very often new Golf with servicing sticker saying service in 15,000km or 12months and the car was made almost a year before it was sold. :?

[Finance_Analyst]

The filter is $15 and take 400ml of oil. Your call.

I do it every change.

Where do you get a filter for $15? I paid $27 for a genuine one, after my 20% trade discount

[mikinoz]

OEM Mann filters can be had for under £5 shipped from uk

[kaanage]

With the modern oils being so good, I'd think about going the other way - replace the filter + top up at 7.5Mm and complete oil change + filter at 15Mm.

[brad]

Not worth it kaanage. The filter won't be plugged by 7500 unless you have some serious sludging issues & have started to use a high detergent oil. Either do the whole job or not at all.

To the OP: Always oil + filter. IIRC, the owners manual says 60,000km for an air filter but I do mine at 45,000 intervals. Fuel filter varies between models, mine is 90,000km but I did it at 75,000km.

As Transporter said, it depends where you drive. My air filter looked visually acceptable but you need a microscope to see all the fine particles that are trapped in the filter material. The fuel filter was spotless.

Cheap insurance to change them as they are all reasonably priced components. Oil filter is ~$20; Airfilter ~$27; Fuel Filter ~$50.

Mikinoz: Which UK supplier please?

[kaanage]

Given this thread (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f77/frequent-oil-changes-bad-pd-check-out-45648.html), I don't see why just changing the filter at 7.5Mm isn't a good idea for a TDi, especially a PD like the OP's.

[Pawnii]

Excellent info guys.
I've just brought a full filter service kit and will be changing all my filters soon when it lands.
We don't drive the car very hard as it's more for the wife and kids, but we do a lot of kms....5k kms in the last 6 weeks!

I reckon i'll do the oil + oil filter every 10k. Air and fuel filters every 50k

All i have to do is work out how to set the service reminder with the vagcom with these figures

[brad]

Given this thread (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f77/frequent-oil-changes-bad-pd-check-out-45648.html), I don't see why just changing the filter at 7.5Mm isn't a good idea for a TDi, especially a PD like the OP's.
Well, the world won't stop turning if you do but changing a filter that is nowhere near plugged seems a bit useless to me. Keep in mind that if your running extended service intervals (no, not something i would do) the filter is on for up to 30,000km.

I just think oil + filter go hand in hand. The sum of the parts is greater than the individual contribution. eg: It's no fun sucking on a lemon & salt unless there's tequila as well.

[Transporter]

Just a few words on some discussions about frequent oil changes in the internet forums, which could mislead some.

1. To put the clean oil in the engine too often, is no good for the engine, the additives have to wear in or something like that;

2. After oil change the engine's rotating parts are dry and you wear out the engine faster when draining the oil too often, because there is not oil on friction surfaces;

All I can say is that, I'm around for long enough to remember when we were changing the engine oil every 5,000km in petrol engines and every 3,000km in the diesels. We also know that 50 or more years ago when there were on advanced additives that we have today and the oil changes were done even more often, the engines didn’t wear out because they were drain out of oil and refilled with the fresh one.

Back to present time. What about the drivers who don't drive for a week or weeks? Their engines would have the camshaft lobes worn out very soon. Well, the additives in the oil will protect the rotating surfaces in these situations, but only if the oil still has them (worn-out/dirty oil is lacking of the vital additives and it doesn't offer much of the protection on dry start ups).

... and finally, it wouldn't be recommended by VW to change the oil more often when driven under severe driving conditions, if it would be wearing out anything on the dry start ups.
I have no doubts that the VW Long Life oils are capable of the long oil drains, but IMO it is not for everybody’s driving conditions and I think that it is another area in which some time ago the car manufacturers started to compete (who's car is more economical when it comes to servicing).

Conclusion: The clean oil extends the engine's life by minimizing the deposits formation in the engine and not just in the lubrication system, but also in the intakes.

Regardless of all the above;

if you change your oil every 15,000km or once a year, you should still get a reasonable life out of that engine. What I mean is, it shouldn’t fell apart after the warranty expires.

[brad]

Agree with most of what you said as a theory but I know for a fact that Subarus used to get false pre-ignition readings at the knock sensors every time you changed the oil. They'd take about 500-1000km to settle down & in the meantime you were down on power & chewing through fuel. The fix was to isolate the knock sensor. I think the problem was air bubbles in the galleries but maybe I'm wrong.

Also, you slightly contradict yourself by saying that you remember the 5,000km changes & how that didn't hurt an engine. Back then the oil didn't have the additives it does now & therefore had to be changed more often. Also the engines were dirtier (blow-by, etc) therefore the oil got dirtier quicker. OTOH, the clearances were huge too, so you could live with a bit of filth in the oil.

The engines did wear out 50 years ago, no matter how often you changed the oil. Cams & followers crapped their pants with gay abandon, rings wore out, big ends clunked their hearts out & their were probably 10x more engine reconditioning shops around than what there are now. It was common practice back in the day to pull the head(s) off & decoke the inlets, exhaust & combustion chambers.

I'm not saying you are wrong but life wasn't so rosy back in the day (and I'm pretty sure i'm older than you & started my trade earlier).

BTW, my 1st employer as a tradie used to use the same grade of oil for all our customers. It was recycled oil & he paid 25c a litre for it & we sold the old stuff back to the recyclers for 5c a litre). Surprisingly, we only had 1 engine failure in the 4 years I was there & he wiggled out of that because the customer didn't check the oil level and it was a crappy old Sigma with a 3.5L sump & the owner let the engine run out of oil.

[mikinoz]

Not worth it kaanage. The filter won't be plugged by 7500 unless you have some serious sludging issues & have started to use a high detergent oil. Either do the whole job or not at all.

To the OP: Always oil + filter. IIRC, the owners manual says 60,000km for an air filter but I do mine at 45,000 intervals. Fuel filter varies between models, mine is 90,000km but I did it at 75,000km.

As Transporter said, it depends where you drive. My air filter looked visually acceptable but you need a microscope to see all the fine particles that are trapped in the filter material. The fuel filter was spotless.

Cheap insurance to change them as they are all reasonably priced components. Oil filter is ~$20; Airfilter ~$27; Fuel Filter ~$50.

Mikinoz: Which UK supplier please?

2.0 TDI from MKV and 2.5/1.9 TDI from T5 use 071 115 562 C

Oil Filter - T5 1.9TDI / 2.5TDI (http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=850&category_id=158)

I bought a few with some other stuff so can't confirm actual shipping on a filter.

[Transporter]

Agree with most of what you said as a theory but I know for a fact that Subarus used to get false pre-ignition readings at the knock sensors every time you changed the oil. They'd take about 500-1000km to settle down & in the meantime you were down on power & chewing through fuel. The fix was to isolate the knock sensor. I think the problem was air bubbles in the galleries but maybe I'm wrong.

Also, you slightly contradict yourself by saying that you remember the 5,000km changes & how that didn't hurt an engine. Back then the oil didn't have the additives it does now & therefore had to be changed more often. Also the engines were dirtier (blow-by, etc) therefore the oil got dirtier quicker. OTOH, the clearances were huge too, so you could live with a bit of filth in the oil.

The engines did wear out 50 years ago, no matter how often you changed the oil. Cams & followers crapped their pants with gay abandon, rings wore out, big ends clunked their hearts out & their were probably 10x more engine reconditioning shops around than what there are now. It was common practice back in the day to pull the head(s) off & decoke the inlets, exhaust & combustion chambers.

I'm not saying you are wrong but life wasn't so rosy back in the day (and I'm pretty sure i'm older than you & started my trade earlier).

BTW, my 1st employer as a tradie used to use the same grade of oil for all our customers. It was recycled oil & he paid 25c a litre for it & we sold the old stuff back to the recyclers for 5c a litre). Surprisingly, we only had 1 engine failure in the 4 years I was there & he wiggled out of that because the customer didn't check the oil level and it was a crappy old Sigma with a 3.5L sump & the owner let the engine run out of oil.

I didn't say that the oil had to be changed more often now because of the additives. All I tried to say is that, you can't hurt the engine if you change the oil more often. Hence; in old days the engines didn't wear out because of the more frequent oil changes (my exact words) despite they didn't have the advanced additives we have today to protect against dry start ups. So I don't think that I'm contradicting myself.

I didn't want to discuss why the engines were wearing out back them, that's irrelevant, and I never said that they didn't wear out at all. :)

For years the Subaru boxer engines had a problem with the oil pumps, which could cause the air bubbles in the oil. The oil pump seal leaked in them, the engine oil getting into the timing belt area, the seals needed to be replaced at 50,000km in some engines. I had Subaru cars from I think 1992 or 1993 till 2011 when we sold the Forester.