Which choice of MK1, 16V bad body or 1.6l good body?

[worm]

Hey guys

I have owned a few MK1 over the yrs, been a member here for bloody ages actually. That reminds me, is Wabit still around? Went on a few drives with him many yrs ago. I had a nice 2 door which was sold to a mate and subsequently blew up and ended up gods knows where, then had a couple for doors, one being a 1.8l with a few nice mods. Red with black bonnet. Stripped that and sent it to the crusher.
Anyway I sold all my MK1's and you know what its like, once you have owned one you always want another one.

You think it would be better to buy a MK1 with a upgraded engine but average body/interior or buy a nice stock MK1 and get someone to put a engine in to it? What would be less stress and less money?

any advice welcome

cheers lads

[Tim]

Everyone will have a different take on it but for me mechanical work is nice and easy. Body work is an expensive pain in my arse :D
So yeah.. id take a clean body over everything when it comes to mk1s. You dont need a lot of power to make such a light car go pretty hard.

[worm]

True that. But its hard and expensive to get a 16V, especially when you cant put one in yourself. I had a 1.8 8v and it went good but seeing as though I have done it I need the next step up.

[ffoff]

It depends what you want to do, and just how bad the body is. If it's got rust, I'd take the clean 1.6. But if it's just a few knocks and dents then 16V all the way.

Engine work>body work IMO

[sports racer]

It depends on how long you've got and the budget. My MK1 has some good mechanicals (1.8l, 5 speed, aftermarket suspension etc) but it has a rusty body. I know bugger all about bodywork but there are heaps of people willing to help me and I'm eager to learn.

[Hilal]

It depends what you want to do, and just how bad the body is. If it's got rust, I'd take the clean 1.6. But if it's just a few knocks and dents then 16V all the way.

Engine work>body work IMO

this.. ....

[pepperwhite]

If you park undercover then a rusty/leaky/smelly car wont be a ever worsening reality.

Imo body work is a real pain as it quickly becomes an complete respray on a mk1.

But i do have a 16v and love it so

[Bluerex]

The main thing I would do different with my next project is buy a better shell. Everything else is a bolt-on, but without a solid, rust-free chassis life is sooo much harder. Dents and a re-spray are not so much of a long-term problem, but given the choice - a clean body wins every time.

[dubmc]

The main thing I would do different with my next project is buy a better shell. Everything else is a bolt-on, but without a solid, rust-free chassis life is sooo much harder. Dents and a re-spray are not so much of a long-term problem, but given the choice - a clean body wins every time.

i agree, if i had the chance to do the project over again i would definately have resprayed and treated every bit of rust (i.e. sandblast)before commencing the build...if you have a good body you can swap/upgrade for as long as you want knowing that you have a solid body...

[h100vw]

I have had plenty of MK1s and I am not in a rush to buy one either! :D

If it was the last car I was allowed to have ever. I would start with a 2 door shell in smart condition and fit a 16V in it. Using a KR/9A/ABF, which ever came available first. I would run injection and a rod change gearbox, 14 inch wheels with 270mm brakes and drums at the back.

[Bluerex]

... a rod change gearbox, 14 inch wheels with 270mm brakes and drums at the back.
Not wanting to hijack the thread, but that is an interesting combo. Really interested in your reasoning (I have a similar setup but with mk4 disks at the back)

C

[h100vw]

There's nothing wrong with the rod box. They fall apart if you try and put G60/200hp through them but otherwise they are plenty tough enough.
Cable change boxes have a long throw and are a bit heavier. A 1.8T conversion you could justify the weight and engineering time to do the gearbox mounts.
I have driven MK1s with all sorts of wheel combinations. Standard 13s, 14s and 15s and you can try and tell me until you are blue in the face but 14s are the best all round for tyre availability/unsprung weight/etc I would stick with 13s if they were 6 inch wide and had 185 tyres on them.
270mm brakes because they fit under 14 inch wheels, that said I could handle 256mm at a push. A mate in the UK has a Turbo Technics MK1 with 175bhp and 239mm standard brakes. He thought they were ok.
No need for discs at the back except for cosmetic reasons.
Happy to keep debating with you on my choices mate.

Gavin

[Bluerex]

Happy to keep debating with you on my choices mate.

Gavin
:cool: No debate, just curious.
This was my first foray into car building and many of my decisions were made for me by;

The CAMS regulations (choosing the 5 speed 020 - rod change and cable clutch)
Chance (finding a bunch of nice 14" BMW wheels that had good offset)
Advice from those that came before me (nearly everything else)
$$$$$

I kept to the 1600 8v because I wanted to run in the P2 class - this may eventually change as my abilities improve, but the competition is fierce but friendly in P2 and it keeps the costs down.
I was chuffed that my "compromise" setup came close to someone else's "ideal" build.

c

[Water Boy]

Worm I have some photo's of your red 4 door some where on my computer.