The Mk1 ABF Project

[cartertronic]

Hey all,

So ... this is hopefully the first post in a long thread covering my planned conversion, a 2L 16V ABF into my 76' Mk1 2dr.

The plan isn't to build a track car or even a high-powered road car.
The plan is to build a daily drivable mk1 with enough power to make it great fun to drive.. for me that's somewhere around 170bhp (saying that I'll probably be bored 6months later! :rolleyes:).
Keeping within the theme of drivability/usability, I'm going to try and install the factory AC system as well. :cool:

I'm going to attempt this project on a fairly strict budget, so most of the decisions made will be a balance between cost and practicality. I'm hoping to keep it under $3000.. wish me luck!

The engine has been purchased in the form of a 97' Mk3 GTI. It's in the UK at the moment being removed by a mate of mine Alastair (aka 'Young Timer (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/member.php?u=6840)'). I went for a complete car so I could get everything I needed (ECU, ignition barrel + keys for ECU immobiliser, loom, fuse box, AC etc..) in one hit.

I'll update the research I've already done, and as I go I'll try to keep a running tally of expenses, problems and discoveries to help anyone planning this conversion.

Expenses so far:
-Car (ebay) £461 ($840AU)
-Towing to Alastair's place £165 ($300AU)

Engine Specs:
-110 kilowatts (150 PS; 148 bhp) @ 6,000 rpm; 180 newton metres (133 ft·lbf) @ 4,800 rpm (ABF)
-109,000 miles (175,000 km) - a little higher then I would've liked, but for the price of the car its not too bad.

The plan is to strap it to my 020 4T 5spd, and sell the 02A gearbox, 288mm front brakes, and MC+Booster to cover as much of the costs as possible.

Here's a pic :D

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/222/my2l16vabf.jpg

[WABIT]

GET INTO IT!!!! HELL YEAH!! hopefully someone can have a WORKING!! 16v in a mk1

dom

[Jarred]

yea well done Simon, will be super cool to see this all done! :D

[Golf Loon]

Nice project, the 4T Gearbox is just about the best one you could use for the job.

[Preen59]

Way to go dude.

Be looking forward to following the progress on this bad boy! :)

[16v_kid]

Really looking forward for this one.

You interested to sell the O2A box? pm me if so.

Good luck in the build. :P

[Jarred]

...You interested to sell the O2A box? pm me if so.
..


... and sell the 02A gearbox,

Bro he said he was going to sell the 02A, read!
How bout you PM him if you're so interested in it!

[cartertronic]

Thanks all! Hopefully it all goes smoothly enough :rolleyes:

I should give you a quick run down of the car the engine is being installed into:

1976 Mk1 2dr
-16x7 Autostrada Modena's with 205/45's
-Lowered Cup Kit
-Cordoba rear drums, 22mm MC and booster
-Replacing a 1.8L Kjet (76kw - 102bhp)
-020 4T 5spd
-Extractors
-2 inch exhaust system

There are a few problems that are foreseeable and I have been researching, I'll update them all to be thorough.

EXHAUST MANIFOLD
First off the bat is the exhaust manifold problem all 16v converters should be familiar with...

There are two obvious options:

Making a Downpipe (for reference ABF, 9A & KR have the same exhaust manifold)
http://www.clubgti.com/FORUM/archive/index.php?t-140869.html
http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=128209

Buying Extractors/Headers
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=23414
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=18771&highlight=extractors


I think I'm going to buy a set, but realistically it has to be a relatively cheap option.

At this stage its either:
-http://www.ashleyexhausts.co.uk/p1411115.htm - £200 ($365AU) could be sent with car (postage within UK £12.50 / $23AU).
-http://www.racelandus.com/p-6-raceland-stainless-header-for-vw-golf-i-mk1-16v-74-84.aspx who do a Mk1 16v header for $230US ($145US + $85US shipping) which is only like $265AU!

Unfortunately, the US mob will have designed theirs for LHD, but does that definitely mean it will foul? Is it possible to modify it to overcome this? If it can be easily overcome then it looks a good option..

In the mean time I've emailed there Belgian parent company http://www.raceland.nl/eshop/catalog/ to see if they do a RHD version.

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

[peedman]

Have you thought about getting someone here to custom make it? I will have an exhaust manifold for an abf for sale eventually but im pretty sure it wont fit ur car. It was custom made here (previous owner) and i got it ceramic coated. You can buy laser cut 16v exhaust flange from 034 motorsport so that might be an option...

And i think lhd and rhd is the same since the booster is on the same side in a mk1, correct me if im wrong.

[Jarred]

...And i think lhd and rhd is the same since the booster is on the same side in a mk1, correct me if im wrong.

i think the problem is fouling on the steering rack where it comes out of the firewall.

[Preen59]

Correct Jarred. Grant (roccodingo) is sourcing some at the moment so if you're keen PM him. I'm awaiting his response also as we were going to do a "group buy" type thing. :)

[peedman]

Ah ok i didnt think of that. In a mk3 theres plenty of space but i guess not with the mk1's.

Have u got plans for the head carter??

[16v_kid]

Bro he said he was going to sell the 02A, read!
How bout you PM him if you're so interested in it!


:icon_surrender::icon_surrender:

common Jarred, don't have to get so angry.

[cartertronic]

Also, I forgot the third option!

A Scirocco 16v downpipe will fit a Mk1 Golf :)

I bid on one of these on german ebay, it went for $400AU :eek:

[jayjay]

the scirocco 16v is like the most sought after for parts or the scirocco itself.

they have stock rear disks, golf 2 gti front brakes, sway bars are thicker, the 16v etc....

i'm not surprised.

i wonder if matt has one?

[roccodingo]

Correct Jarred. Grant (roccodingo) is sourcing some at the moment so if you're keen PM him. I'm awaiting his response also as we were going to do a "group buy" type thing. :)

There are 2 supersprint pipe sets on the water now, spoken for by Pete Jones and Chris. Due mid January.

Still awaiting more info to fit up a TT 16V into Mk1 header before comitting to purchase.

[roccodingo]

Also, I forgot the third option!

A Scirocco 16v downpipe will fit a Mk1 Golf :)

I bid on one of these on german ebay, it went for $400AU :eek:

Prob better off looking in the US for this item, but good luck. You will need the manifold and the downpipe btw.

[Golf Loon]

Any Pommie or Mk1 GTI with the 6 bolts holding the downpipe on, not the clips of horror will fit both th 16v manifold and your car.

They came in late model 8v Mk1 GTIs, Scirocco GTIs and 16vs and Caddys etc. Lots of South African cars had em and post 82 pommie GTIs.

[Preen59]

There are 2 supersprint pipe sets on the water now, spoken for by Pete Jones and Chris. Due mid January.

Wooee! :cool:

[dado]

weld top half of 16v downpipe onto mk1 GTI downpipe

[EndlessMKI]

I remember back when I was going through this ppl kept on warning me about the height of the abf block potentially hitting the bonnet. I can tell you that you don't need to worry about this provided you run fairly firm engine mounts.

Also work out before hand what brake MC you'll be running and find an appropriate dizzy cap. They generally clash if you use standard.

.....hope it all works out as planned.

[cartertronic]

Hey all, back from Xmas holiday with girlfriends family. Her brother in-law is building a plane, was great to see the amount of planning and time put into crafting the frame and body!


Have u got plans for the head carter??

Not as yet. I'm working to a fairly strict budget so haven't seriously considered head work.
More than anything I don't want to push the torque curve to high. This project is for a daily driver, so don't want all the power up top where I won't see it..
To the best of my knowledge head work will increase hp, but generally at higher revs. Any tips for boosting (without boost!) mid range?


There are 2 supersprint pipe sets on the water now, spoken for by Pete Jones and Chris. Due mid January.

Still awaiting more info to fit up a TT 16V into Mk1 header before comitting to purchase.

Excellent, make sure you guys give us a review once they're on!


Any Pommie or Mk1 GTI with the 6 bolts holding the downpipe on, not the clips of horror will fit both th 16v manifold and your car.

They came in late model 8v Mk1 GTIs, Scirocco GTIs and 16vs and Caddys etc. Lots of South African cars had em and post 82 pommie GTIs.

Great tip! I'll keep my eyes open..


weld top half of 16v downpipe onto mk1 GTI downpipe

Cheers dado, don't fancy my welding skills though!
For those considering this route check out..
http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=128209


I remember back when I was going through this ppl kept on warning me about the height of the abf block potentially hitting the bonnet. I can tell you that you don't need to worry about this provided you run fairly firm engine mounts.

Also work out before hand what brake MC you'll be running and find an appropriate dizzy cap. They generally clash if you use standard.

.....hope it all works out as planned.

Wicked, thanks for that. I've been a little worried about that, as I've heard mixed reports.

I'll be running a Cordoba MC and booster. This should give the ABF dizzy a little more room hopefully (I think Valver used a Cupra MC+booster in his conversion, figure it will be similar..). I wasn't aware this was going to be an issue, thanks for the heads up!

Can the VWW member who PM'd me about a downpipe please PM again with a contact email or phone #? I'm very interested to check it out :)

[Preen59]

I think you'll get a pretty pleasant shock if you put that engine in standard. A standard Mk2 KR 16v is pretty impressive for what it is, so if you want my opinion, i'd just put it in bog standard and go from there. :)

[cartertronic]

Cheers Preeny, that's pretty much what I was thinking/hoping.

I figure the existing 2 inch exhaust system and pod intake will open it up a little any anyway.

[cartertronic]

Will this downpipe fit a mk1?
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/2313/dsc02126z.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/3332/dsc02127m.jpg

It doesn't seem to have the lateral curve that most other mk1 16v downpipes have.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/12/allthree01-1.jpg

[Preen59]

Something about steering box clearance i remember reading.. Not sure though. Might want to search one of the euro forums about it??

[Blondie]

Any updates on this one?

[cartertronic]

Hey All,

I bought the above downpipe, just waiting on shipping.

The engine+bits are now removed and the car has been scraped :banana:

Currently, looking into freight and packaging options.

CRATE
I'm favouring a crate about 1m square, that can hopefully fit the engine, gearbox, AC bits and pieces, + coilovers and misc bits. First quote I've received is for £130 (international freight safe/certified + delivered to address in UK) - quote from www.movecorp.co.uk

FREIGHT
So far, best quote on freight (truck pickup from UK address > freight to Melb) is £252, but from a different company - www.havas.co.uk

I have to say I'm pleasantly surprised by the freight cost :)

I'm hunting down more crate suppliers, I'll post any results.

QUESTIONS
1. Does anyone have any crate or freight hookups in the UK? Let me know!

2. RE: Coilovers, I'm thinking of going with FK Konig Sport coilovers (http://www.venommotorsport.com/manufacturer_product.php?manufacturer=FK&category=suspension&product=KonigsportCoilovers&make=VW&model=Golf%20Mk%201) (£634) as the are height and damper adjustable and run Koni shocks. I know 'alex g' has run some FKs in his swallow tail project ( :bowdown: ) and have PM'd him about his experience/opinion. Does anyone else have any experience with FK?

3. Also, I am need to get some new discs (grooved/drilled 239mm/20mm vented) but am on a fairly tight budget. Have considered getting a random set of ebay.uk, but keep hearing great things about Black Diamond (amongst others).

I know this is an age old question (quality vs. price), but ... considering that the ebay jobs are half the price and this project is a road car, is it worth the extra coin?
Main concern is durability and performance (remember its a road car so performance level required won't be as high as track). Interestingly I noticed on Venom Motorsport that the Black Diamonds (http://www.venommotorsport.com/product_details.php?id=4946&manufacturer=Black%20Diamond&category=Brake) have a minimum of only 19mm, whereas most other discs have a wear minimum of 18mm... does that mean half the life span or are they made from more durable metal?
So, £110 Black Diamonds (http://www.venommotorsport.com/product_details.php?id=4946&manufacturer=Black%20Diamond&category=Brake) OR £50 ebay jobs (examples 1 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK1-1-8-GTI-DIMPLED-GROOVED-BRAKE-DISCS_W0QQitemZ320452879563QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_C arsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item4a9c7ae4cb) , 2 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-GTi-MK1-Drilled-Grooved-Brake-Discs-Front-239mm_W0QQitemZ300272777319QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_C arsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item45e9a6f867) & 3 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-Mk1-GTi-Drilled-Grooved-SPORT-BRAKE-DISCS_W0QQitemZ220505777660QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_C arsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item33572b25fc) )? Does anyone have any experience/opinions?

See y'all Melbs lads on Sunday! :cool:

[cartertronic]

Finished my sound and heat insulation project :banana:

Check it out here http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?p=471203&posted=1#post471203

I bought the downpipe pictured above, turns out it does have a lateral curve just not obvious in the pic.

Also, have slapped down some cash on FK KonigSport Coilovers :D

[Jarred]

Good to see you're keeping at it!

You'll have to take me for a spin next pub meet, it'll be interesting to see how quiet it is now!

[cartertronic]

I'm about to purchase all service/replacement parts for the engine conversion, I figure it'll be cheaper to get them sent over with the engine than bother later.

Thought I'd record it here to be thorough.
To be ordered from http://www.car-partsonline.com/MyParts.asp?Manufacturer=7&Year=1997&Model=3606&command=ChooseModel EDIT - Company has gone bust due to factory fire :(
The list I have so far is:
-Timing Belt Kit (including tensioner) website (http://www.volkswagenspares.com/page.php?page=timingbelts) (same company as above URL) says £19.00!?
-Replacement Waterpump £17.95
-Altenator / AC belt ?
-Mk2 8v GTI 210mm OE Spec Clutch Kit £55.95
-Ignition Lead Set £38.95
-4 x NGK Spark Plugs £3.30
-Fuel Filter £6.95
-VAG Oil Filter £2.80
-Inlet Manifold Gasket (upper and lower) £3.21 + £2.85
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket £4.70
-Sump Drain Plug & Seal £1.05 + £0.31

Never serviced a Mk3 engine so let me know if there is anything else I should be replacing..

[Jarred]

are you just going to go for a standard clutch or something slightly uprated?

[h100vw]

A 16 Valve cover would be a better bet than a standard 8v one. Bear in mind the 8 Valve made 112Hp in it's toughest form. The ABF is 150Hp.

Gavin

[cartertronic]

Thanks lads, I confess to having a limited knowledge of clutch requirements etc. As the 210mm flywheel I have is from a 8v mk2 I figured clutch would be to suit, stands to reason they are interchangable at the same size..

So I take it there is a 210mm 16v clutch that would suit? Or will any other 16v clutch still be insufficient (as other 16v's had lower bhp)?

Is there a smarter after market alternative?

[Peter Jones]

If you're going to run the 020 box you need an 8v friction plate as the splines in the 16v boxes (Generally) are bigger.

What you can run though is the 16v pressure plate as Gavin suggests.

Plenty of options out there mine's a stage 3 unit from Spec in the US.

http://www.specclutch.com/products

[Peter Jones]

OK to be a little more specific now that I'm not rushing out the door to work.

The 020 boxes had two different input shaft diameters, most are the smaller type. This affects your choice of friction plate. You can get 210mm friction plates with either diameter spline.

Now, you'll find that a lot of listings for clutch bits don't make that terribly clear. What they do is list 16v or 8v types hence my generalisation above.

If a driven disk is list as 8v it should have the smaller and more common spline (input shaft) diameter.

If a friction disc is listed as 16v it should be to suit the larger diameter shaft.

Easiest way to find out what yours has is to look a gearbox chart like this one. http://www.techtonicstuning.com/trannyratios.asp

Best way to find out is to pull it out of the car and take a look.

Sounds like you've got a 4T box to play with which I think has the small i/p shaft.

To add some further complication there are two types of 210mm flywheel, single or dual pin. Either will work happily but it may affect your choice of pressure plate if it's specificc to either type. Most pressure plates are universal these days, especially the performance ones.

In summary 210mm flywheel, 8v disc, 16v pressure plate.

I've got exactly this setup in my car, you can read all about it the wreck to race thread.(link below)

Pete

[Golf Loon]

4T box has great ratios for what you want from it.

It also has the small input shaft.

So Pete Jones is correct with the kit you want.

GAP list one for that application which I have in the 20VT Scirocco and it has never slipped. Should be sweet attached to a 16v.

[cartertronic]

Thanks for the info!
I've done a little reading as I don't really have any experience in clutch mechanics and I'm pretty keen to understand this properly :)
Looking forward to getting home and checking my Haynes book to understand how everything attaches together.
P.S Pete, I had a look at your thread (loved the track vid :banana: )

Quick question, bit confused by your first post:

If you're going to run the 020 box you need an 8v pressure plate as the splines in the 16v boxes (Generally) are bigger.

What you can run though is the 16v pressure plate as Gavin suggests.


Did you mean I can't run a 16v friction plate as it won't match the spline on the 020 gearbox?

I didn't think the pressure plate had a splined hub (not sure if that's the right term) to fit the splined shaft, so I'm hoping that was a typo..


4T box has great ratios for what you want from it.

It also has the small input shaft.

So Pete Jones is correct with the kit you want.

GAP list one for that application which I have in the 20VT Scirocco and it has never slipped. Should be sweet attached to a 16v.

Thanks for that spline sizing Matt, saves me taking the box out to check :D

Based on this I'll need:
-the 210mm flywheel I currently have (hopefully it matches the pressure plate)
-a 210mm friction plate with fits the spline on the 020 box and has enough 'grip' to work with 150bhp.
-the existing 16v pressure plate on the ABF (or do I need to get an aftermarket one?)

[Peter Jones]

Did you mean I can't run a 16v friction plate as it won't match the spline on the 020 gearbox?

I didn't think the pressure plate had a splined hub (not sure if that's the right term) to fit the splined shaft, so I'm hoping that was a typo..

Yep, typo sorry. I was rushing to catch a train. I'll edit it just in case anyone is reading back for this answer later on.

That 16v Pressure plate you've already got should be fine. (Although I did blow up a stock one of those:rolleyes:)

Pete

[Golf Loon]

You need a new pressure plate that comes with the clutch kit.

The one on your ABF is for a totally different clutch setup and gearbox 02a and so wont work. Get the whole kit from GAP and a Mk2 or Mk3 flywheel and you will be fine.

[jayjay]

i think i remember reading on a sachs site that the GAP HD clutch kit was from diesel mk2 taxis in europe.. good to know?

[cartertronic]

Thanks all, lucky I checked before making that other order :emo_baghead:

Just about to order the Heavy Duty 210mm 8v Clutch that comes with the 16v pressure plate (http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Golf/Clutch/55/1) from GAP ($125.60 US).
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/03/f-2.jpg

Although there is no way to tell price of postage without submitting order :confused: Anyone know how much postage is?

I know I have to replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, should I buy the clutch install kit ($55 US) with the other misc bits as well (rear crank seal, input shaft seal, push rod bushing and seal, release bearing and release bearing cover)?
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/03/f-3.jpg

[Golf Loon]

Yes that is the kit and yes buy the other kit and change all the bushings and seals.

Phone up and talk to a person and place the order. Get better service and prices than some annonymous random on the net.

[cartertronic]

Thanks for the help all, ordered and received the HD Clutch and Install Kit came to about $300AU.

After sealing up the car and completing the sound deadening project the heater core started leaking :crying: .. Murphy's Law is a killer!
Anyway, quickly got a new heater core, installed it and got back to dry golfing :)

Have been cleaning and refurbishing a set of Kelsey Hayes GTI brakes ready for the conversion. Only just finished stripping the paint and degreasing them, will post some pics once they've been resprayed with heat resistant paint and sealant.

I've ordered drilled and grooved discs and will be ordering new pads and braided lines in the next day or so. Ordering from the UK so all that stuff will be going in the crate with the engine.

Also looking at a rear strut brace, either

Mounts on top of strut
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5859/mk1rearupperstrutbracet.png

OR

Mounts on side of strut tower
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5859/mk1rearupperstrutbracet.png

Leaning toward the first one as it won't require drilling into the tower. Bit of a bargain at $45AU too!

[AUC-05L]

nice project.

is it expensive to freight and engine over from the UK? (if you dint mind me asking)

keep up the good work.

[Oneofthegreats]

nice project.

is it expensive to freight and engine over from the UK? (if you dint mind me asking)

keep up the good work.

He posted the info up on the 3rd page about freight costs

[Oneofthegreats]

Mounts on top of strut
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/

OR

Mounts on side of strut tower
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/

I'd be more inclined to go for the 2nd one as it actually ties into the body which is what proper stress bars are all about, where as the 1st one only ties the shocker pistons together & they can still move about on there rubber mounts.


Good job on the project too.

Good planning & preparation makes all the difference with big projects & conversions.

Keep it up & will be keeping an eye on this project.

[cartertronic]

I'd be more inclined to go for the 2nd one as it actually ties into the body which is what proper stress bars are all about, where as the 1st one only ties the shocker pistons together & they can still move about on there rubber mounts.

Good job on the project too.

Good planning & preparation makes all the difference with big projects & conversions.

Keep it up & will be keeping an eye on this project.

Cheers! I'm becoming a little bit of a stickler for planning. I definitely agree, the more planning the less disappointment & more enjoyment!

That's a really good point about the shockers flexing against the bushings. That brace actually has a slight bend in it as well, which could be prone to a little flex.

My only concern with the second one was where it attached to the towers. I.e. Whether the metal on the towers was thick enough not to flex when the brace starts pushing it around...

[AUC-05L]

He posted the info up on the 3rd page about freight costs

cheers,

cartertronic- is this the mob you ended up going with http://www.havas.co.uk/?

[Peter Jones]

That's a really good point about the shockers flexing against the bushings.
My only concern with the second one was where it attached to the towers. I.e. Whether the metal on the towers was thick enough not to flex when the brace starts pushing it around...

First type is pretty pointless really. There's plenty of metal in those towers to support option 2 although I'd be putting a plate on the inside of the tower. Something with a diagonal brace would be better again.

Pete

[Preen59]

First type is pretty pointless really. There's plenty of metal in those towers to support option 2 although I'd be putting a plate on the inside of the tower. Something with a diagonal brace would be better again.

Pete

Anything with a bend in it is pointless if you ask me. As soon as you bend them, you've lost the strength.

[thestu]

i only just read your thread simon! forgot you changed your screen name :P

good stuff man!!!

if ya need a hand i've done my share of mk1's in my short life :)

[Peter Jones]

Anything with a bend in it is pointless if you ask me. As soon as you bend them, you've lost the strength.

Bending isn't the issue though here. All this style of bar does is tie the tops of the shocks together. Unlike the front, the position of the top of the shocks doesn't affect the tracking geometry.

It won't stop chassis flex because of the rubber mounts either.

Think about what sideways forces are you trying to control here. There's not a lot of horizontal thrust vectors at play at the top of the shock itself.

Even option 2 is dubious. What does it matter if the towers move sideways? The suspension pivots from further forward underneath the car.

Controlling the chassis flex should lead to some improvements in weight transfer as you throw the car from side to side, hopefully that pays off in more predictable handing.

Tying the rear towers together should stiffen the back up a bit but without the diagonal there's still potential for parallelogram distortion of the rear box area.

The distortion you're trying to control can only come from the vertical motion of the shocks pushing up harder on one side than the other.

Shiney shock tower braces are pretty cool though. :)

Pete

[dado]

this is the way vw aproach this in the case with the convertible
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/04/P1000235-1.jpg

[Oneofthegreats]

Thats the money shot right there!

The cabbys also had bigger sills & front inner guard extension along with various other strengthening devices to make up for the lack of roof support

[Preen59]

Bending isn't the issue though here. All this style of bar does is tie the tops of the shocks together. Unlike the front, the position of the top of the shocks doesn't affect the tracking geometry.

It won't stop chassis flex because of the rubber mounts either.

Think about what sideways forces are you trying to control here. There's not a lot of horizontal thrust vectors at play at the top of the shock itself.

Even option 2 is dubious. What does it matter if the towers move sideways? The suspension pivots from further forward underneath the car.

Controlling the chassis flex should lead to some improvements in weight transfer as you throw the car from side to side, hopefully that pays off in more predictable handing.

Tying the rear towers together should stiffen the back up a bit but without the diagonal there's still potential for parallelogram distortion of the rear box area.

The distortion you're trying to control can only come from the vertical motion of the shocks pushing up harder on one side than the other.

Shiney shock tower braces are pretty cool though. :)

Pete

I do agree partly Pete, but..

You also are trying to stop the shock towers pushing together. This happens through cornering and under brakes. Tieing the strust towers together prevents this and makes the car point far better and stops the front wallowing and wandering under hard braking. It makes it more stable and more predictable.

The year before last i made a tubular front strut brace for my mate's MK1 escort track car (bit of a weapon- 200hp Pinto engine, sierra 5 speed, mexico guards, half cage.. The whole nine yards). You wouldn't believe the difference it made to thr front end.. It was like night and day. And that was without tieing it in to the firewall. :)

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/021220071118.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/021220071117.jpg

[Antonvs]

Would love to follow this thread as i would be considereing something like this in the future!
Good Luck with the conversion.

[Peter Jones]

I do agree partly Pete, but..

You also are trying to stop the shock towers pushing together. This happens through cornering and under brakes.



Absolutely agree on the front towers, they bend inwards under load and the suspension geometry changes causing undesirable camber changes.

On the back though? Even if the towers do get closer to each other it's not going to affect the rear tracking geometry, just the way the springs work and mess with the weight transfer as the twisting coach work is providing it's own spring rate.

Generally though, getting the car as stiff as possible is the way to go.

If you wanted to control rear camber changes due to corner loading you'd do it more like this.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/04/complete20kit20on20beam201201a20logo111-1.jpg

[Preen59]

Absolutely agree on the front towers, they bend inwards under load and the suspension geometry changes causing undesirable camber changes.

On the back though? Even if the towers do get closer to each other it's not going to affect the rear tracking geometry, just the way the springs work and mess with the weight transfer as the twisting coach work is providing it's own spring rate.

Generally though, getting the car as stiff as possible is the way to go.

If you wanted to control rear camber changes due to corner loading you'd do it more like this.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/04/complete20kit20on20beam201201a20logo111-1.jpg

Oh, sorry.. I was only talking about the front end. Totally agree with you on the rear.. :)

[Peter Jones]

Rear doesn't matter much really, if you're doing it right you've got one wheel in the air anyway :)

[Jarred]

Rear doesn't matter much really, if you're doing it right you've got one wheel in the air anyway :)

dammit, I just changed my sig quote too. gold!

[cartertronic]

Sorry guys, been flat chat last couple of days.


cheers,

cartertronic- is this the mob you ended up going with www.havas.co.uk (http://www.havas.co.uk/)

The guys I'm going with are www.movecorp.co.uk (http://www.movecorp.co.uk) and will drop of a crate to be packed, then come and pick it up and freight it over.
They were a little more expensive (about £10-20) than sourcing a crate from somewhere else and getting Havas to freight it, but because they are doing the whole thing (supplying crate and freight) I figured there would be less chance of a stuff up (e.g. crate not being up to customs scratch or something).


i only just read your thread simon! forgot you changed your screen name :P

good stuff man!!!

if ya need a hand i've done my share of mk1's in my short life :)

Hey mate! Thanks for the offer, I might just take you up on that :D


Some really interesting points raised about the rear strut brace.

I totally see your point about the rear towers, and that the benefit will mostly be in weight transfer.
Also, tying the rear towers together won't stop them flexing in the same direction (i.e. as you say like a parallelogram).

I think I'm gonna pass on the shiny brace and try and design an 'X' shaped one myself (with plates to reinforce attachment to the towers) :)
Thanks for the pic dado. Interesting that VW have gone for a rectangular setup, I can see this would have the same effect, but it does look heavier then a 'X' shaped brace (this could be the reason in itself! Or perhaps its just cheaper..).

I'm gonna put a brace on my list of projects, but I might have to brush up on my welding! :P
I figure lowest and highest points on the towers (without interfering with shocks etc.) would be the best fixing points.

If this doesn't end up as just another pipe dream (love a good pun :emo_baghead:), then I'll post up the designs etc.


So the braces in this pic stop the 'legs' of the rear beam flexing outward ('legs' refers to tubular sections), but still allows the whole rear beam to twist?

If you wanted to control rear camber changes due to corner loading you'd do it more like this.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/04/complete20kit20on20beam201201a20logo111-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

So the braces in this pic stop the 'legs' of the rear beam flexing outward ('legs' refers to tubular sections), but still allows the whole rear beam to twist?

It's a bit hard to see from this angle but what's it's doing is stopping the angle of the axles relative to the main section of the beam from changing. It's attempting to stop the leg from twisting.

You're right about the main beam still being able to twist, you'd install a sway bar as well to limit that.

Pete

[cartertronic]

Cool, I get it. It stops the legs twisting and toeing in or out etc..

Is this a realistic road setup though? Or is this only a consideration in track use?

I checked out the site selling it Southern California Cylinder Heads (http://scch-heads.com/viewpart.php?id=43)

I guess this is the answer "when subjected to sever lateral g forces it has a tendency of flexing inward or outward causing unwanted toe changes in the rear end of the car which leads to a more unpredictable driving environment". I think this is a bit beyond my street spec ... at this stage ;)

Btw - speaking of sway bars I have a decision to make as I have a 20mm rear sway bar and two front sway bars (15mm and 21mm).

I assume there is a preferred setup for optimal balance? i.e. front should be thicker than front or vice versa?

[Oneofthegreats]

Cool, I get it. It stops the legs twisting and toeing in or out etc..

Is this a realistic road setup though? Or is this only a consideration in track use?

I checked out the site selling it Southern California Cylinder Heads (http://scch-heads.com/viewpart.php?id=43)

I guess this is the answer "when subjected to sever lateral g forces it has a tendency of flexing inward or outward causing unwanted toe changes in the rear end of the car which leads to a more unpredictable driving environment". I think this is a bit beyond my street spec ... at this stage ;)

Btw - speaking of sway bars I have a decision to make as I have a 20mm rear sway bar and two front sway bars (15mm and 21mm).

I assume there is a preferred setup for optimal balance? i.e. front should be thicker than front or vice versa?

I can safely say that the SCCH Rear Beam Toe Stabilizer is complete overkill for street use & even for part time track work.
You will never push the car to the levels of grip you need on the street & unless your running mega wide slicks with stupids amount of grip even for track use.

As far as swaybars go.

I ran a 25mm front hollow bar & a 28mm hollow bar & loved them! They were awesome on the track.
But the front one was overkill for street use & way to stiff. It was also very noisy too due to the large urethane mounts & cause it hinged off the body & connected to the control arms & would creak at low speeds.

For street use in my 76er & just about all of my streeter Mk1's, I just run only the rear 28mm one. Not noisy & makes the car very taught & more than good enough to tackle the twistys when you feel the need.


One thing to remember before you start making the car all nice & stiff is, when you step up your suspension, your "so called sticky tyres" will no longer give you the grip you thought you had & as such will also have to be upgraded.

I found this out first hand. I had some nice new very nice grippy rubber on the car & then fitted the KW V3's & swaybars etc. Then the grippy tyres were junk, cause the car had so much more levels of stiffness, I had to upgrade the tyres to get more out of the upgraded suspension.

Just food for thought

[cartertronic]

Yeah, I'm a little cautious about how rough the ride will be with a 21mm front sway bar (I'll be running urethane mounts as well).

I figure I'll notice a big difference with the 15mm front and 20mm rear setup anyway (+ fitting FK Konigsports).

Interesting what you say about running only the rear sway bar, maybe I'll chuck the rear one on first (gotta fab up the outer brackets though) then see how it feels..

Any other setups out there?

[cartertronic]

I've misplaced the rego and VIN details of the car the engine came out of and I now need to know the exact build date so I get the right service parts :(

I got my mate storing the engine to check the engine number "Checked the engine out this evening and the engine number looks as though it is 0681090210 (or 0 could be a D)"

I rang VW, they recommended checking each part to be replaced for a part #, then buying the corresponding part. Good idea, but not ideal.

I've emailed the cars seller, but as yet no reply :(

Car was a '97 Mk3 GTI

Help!

UPDATE: I've ordered a copy of VAG ETKA (electronic parts catalogue) to investigate this properly. Should be able to pinpoint any parts that changed over in '97 and then follow-up on the parts numbers. Will post results..

UPDATE: ETKA v2 rules! Totally geeked-out on car schematics for about 5hours after work last night :)

[cartertronic]

Fitted a 20mm rear sway bar last night..
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/9829/imageeo.jpg

Had to knock up some outer brackets to attach it the tubular part of the rear beam, as these brackets are super hard to come by and VW don't make them any more.

No matter, managed to cut some strips of (1-2mm) steel and hand bend them into shape..

I managed to get it spot on, any bigger and it wouldn't have been tight enough. As it is I tightened it up so there was no movement, but was cautious not to deform the bushing.

You may notice the big 'handles' (flat surface that bolt has gone through) and the size of the bolt. I made these large to give myself something to grab when squeezing the bracket tight around the bushing/beam, the length of the bolt helped me get it started so I could tighten it up. Hand are aching a little today!

http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/3754/imagehwu.jpg

Tough part was drilling through the rear beam (to mount the inner brackets) with old cheap/blunt bits - some quality drill bits sorted that out ;)

Only had a couple of chances to drive the car today, but can really feel the difference!

I just did a few fast laps around a tight roundabout and was very pleased with how it hung on.

[Jarred]

Good to see you're still kicking it Simon!

Any word on the shipping yet?

[roccodingo]

roll bar straps are available from crazy quiffs

Items (http://www.golfmk1.co.uk/Items.php?cat=SLAREA&group=REARSUSPENSION)

[cartertronic]

roll bar straps are available from crazy quiffs

Items (http://www.golfmk1.co.uk/Items.php?cat=SLAREA&group=REARSUSPENSION)

:duh:

Haha! Oh well, at least it's on now anyway :)


Good to see you're still kicking it Simon!

Any word on the shipping yet?

Still waiting on it getting cleaned up before I can freight it over.

A bit frustrating, but at least it gives me a chance to get some other projects out the way in the mean time!

[mikinoz]

I think I'm going to buy a set, but realistically it has to be a relatively cheap option.

At this stage its either:
-Ashley - If you are looking for an Ashley Volkswagen Golf Mk1 16V Conversion Manifold (AVWM10) click here Ashley (http://www.ashleyexhausts.co.uk/p1411115.htm) - £200 ($365AU) could be sent with car (postage within UK £12.50 / $23AU).
-Exhaust Header for VW Golf I MK1 16V 74 - 84 (http://www.racelandus.com/p-6-raceland-stainless-header-for-vw-golf-i-mk1-16v-74-84.aspx) who do a Mk1 16v header for $230US ($145US + $85US shipping) which is only like $265AU!

Unfortunately, the US mob will have designed theirs for LHD, but does that definitely mean it will foul? Is it possible to modify it to overcome this? If it can be easily overcome then it looks a good option..

In the mean time I've emailed there Belgian parent company Raceland! (http://www.raceland.nl/eshop/catalog/) to see if they do a RHD version.


Hey, so did you find out about the LH/RH issue for the Raceland?

[Preen59]

Pete Jones and I have both got a set of Raceland headers. I'm happy with them, but haven't fitted them yet.. Got them through Grant (roccodingo). :)

[Valver.]

The Raceland header will fit a RHD car. I used one when putting my old ABF into a friend's Mk1. It's quite hard to get past the uni-joint (you'll also need to heat-shield the rubber cover as a result) and the quality leaves a lot to be desired (none of the bolt holes lined up - had to weld and re-drill them) and the steel is really thin. I also had to extend it around 20mm for the ABF.

Saying all this, it hasn't cracked yet and is cheap, so you can't expect the highest standard :)

About the only header that is a direct bolt-on with a RHD ABF Mk1 is the Eurosport one... This has drawbacks too, though: it only has a 2" outlet!

[mikinoz]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Stu, are you thinking that if I have a KR, there will be more room as the head is marginally lower than in the ABF? I would not have expected to have had that issue with welding and re-drilling, but as you say it may be a case of getting what you pay for.

Chris, have you matched up you head to the manifold to see how they look?

I have a quote for $400 landed which I think is cheap enough to warrant the issues that may arise, but not as cheap as the $230US ($145US + $85US shipping) mentioned above. Was that simply by emailing Raceland as they asked for $220 for shipping...

Very sorry to thread hijack.

[Valver.]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Stu, are you thinking that if I have a KR, there will be more room as the head is marginally lower than in the ABF? I would not have expected to have had that issue with welding and re-drilling, but as you say it may be a case of getting what you pay for.

Chris, have you matched up you head to the manifold to see how they look?



I think it'd still be pretty close to the plastic sleeve on the steering rack as it bends under the car. The trouble is that all the LHD headers are skewed to the driver's side of the car with the notion that the knuckle is on the left.

You'd definitely at least need some poly engine mounts to limit the engine movement a bit more. Bear in mind that the stock headers flow pretty well and you probably won't gain anything by using a Raceland one instead. If I wanted to save money, I'd get one of the Techtonics downpipes (or similar) and retain the stock manifold. You can also import one of the stock tubular manifolds found on late model LHD ABFs - matching this with a high-flow downpipe is probably better than any aftermarket header in terms of quality and reliability. I have a source for all this stuff if needed.

If you do trial fit the Raceland, make sure that you have all three sections bolted up - once I fitted the top half into the sleeves of the bottom half, this was when it threw out the alignments of the bolt holes.

[mikinoz]

Based on your advice Stu, I will get a dyno plot on Sunday and then we can analyse things better from there!

[cartertronic]

So, the crate is almost ready to go haha! :)

Seriously, would I lie to you?

The problem with organising your own crate from foreign soil is that it just keeps getting bigger as you add more stuff to the pile!

Anyway, crate is ordered and ready to go... but has just enough room for a set of rims :rolleyes: So about to throw down some cash on a new set of 15' Ronal R10's (buying them new for 500GBP = $760AU... how can you go wrong?) so thought I should ask about tyres.. (UK prices, again, put ours to shame)

Ride Height: I'll be lowering it further with some adjustable coils + it already has gti arches.. so rubbing is definitely a concern (although won't be going super low, just enough to eliminate gap).

Current setup rubs occasionally: Autostrada Modenas 16 x 8 (e38 ) + 205/45/16 tyres

Ronal R10 Spec: 15 x 7 (e28 )

I've used a few tyre calculators, and was thinking 195/50/15
WillTheyFit.com with above specs (http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=205&aspect=45&diameter=16&wheelwidth=8&offset=38&width2=195&aspect2=50&diameter2=15&wheelwidth2=7&offset2=28&Submit=Submit)

Reasons:
-50 seems a decent width, so ok ride quality + won't throw speedo too far out
-Not so interested in stretched look (sorry!)
-Not so bad on the wallet
-Seems as though they'll fit

Is this too wide? i.e. 185 better choice for no rub? Any personal experience?

Also, brand advice would be great (general road use, nothing crazy).. thinking about TOYO T1R's, good choice?


PS - Apologies for going MIA for 12months! I've been keeping myself busy with a V.A.G related project that'll be revealed in about a month.. top secret until then though ;)

[Valver.]

195/50s are too big for a Mk1 on 15s. The correct size in terms of rolling diameter is 195/45/15.

Given how easily a 2.0 16v will light up the wheels in a Mk1, you don't want to go to a narrower tyre - 1st gear will be even more of a waste of time!

You can't go too wrong with tyres nowadays, provided you steer clear of Malaysian and Indonesian brands :)

[roccodingo]

Anyway, crate is ordered and ready to go... but has just enough room for a set of rims :rolleyes: So about to throw down some cash on a new set of 15' Ronal R10's (buying them new for 500GBP = $760AU... how can you go wrong?) so thought I should ask about tyres.. (UK prices, again, put ours to shame)



Remember you have Cost of goods + shipping cost + 5% uplift + duty on that total + GST on that total...yeah, sucks....

[Preen59]

I'm not sure why the **** i said i have Racelands headers.. Pete and I got Ashley. Sorry.

I just fitted a set of 195/45.15 KE31s to some 7 inch Zenders and they look sweet.

[cartertronic]

Cheers guys, tracking a set of Toyo T1R 195/45/15's now...
Amen, on the reduced width! Traction is king :cool:



Remember you have Cost of goods + shipping cost + 5% uplift + duty on that total + GST on that total...yeah, sucks....
ROPEICInVPY

Rocco, do you know how duty is calculated? How much etc?

EDIT - Scratch that, found a useful FAQ document at the Australian Customs website (PDF) (http://www.customs.gov.au/webdata/resources/files/importinggoodsbypostfaq.pdf)

Also, found this if anyone is interested... Australia Customs website - Importing a Car (http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page4371.asp)

[roccodingo]

Going thru this now...

Importing Vehicles to Australia (http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/importing_vehicles/index.aspx)

Have the import approval and the car has been collected, waiting for the shipping next.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/roccodingo/leavinghome.jpg

the factory build date was 30 Sept 1980 so it should be duty free ( Older than 30 years)

hijack appologies :D

[Jarred]

dammit grant! another one!

(jealous!)

Good to see you're wondering around here still simon! I've lost your number otherwise I'd have bugged you to come down the pub last week.

oh, and 195/45's should be fine. Might have to fold the lips and trim the arches a tab, all depending how low you want to go.

[cartertronic]

No apologies necessary for that beast!

I'll shoot you a text Jarred, keen to hit the pub again after an extended absence.

Btw - some second hand tyres came up on eBay, is this a nightmare waiting to happen with AU customs (as they're paranoid about dirt/organic waste coming in the country)?

[roccodingo]

Quarantine inspection service will be fussy if they actually get to look at your used tyres.

I usually pay more and have the seller thouroughly power wash the items before shipping. If quarantine picks them here you will be stung for additional charges to get them clean enough. Personally if your going to the fuss of buying used I would just get new ones.

Check out tire rack in the US, last trip to LA the shipping warehouse was full of new wheels n tyres being shipped here as there loads cheaper.

[Valver.]

Grant's right! I went through hell when I imported my last set of wheels from Germany. They opened every one of the four boxes and pressure washed each of the wheels, which stripped off heaps of the paint etc... And then charged me an extra $280 for the "hassle". It also amounted to a six-week customs delay!

Given how cheap the tyres are new, you'd be mad to try and get used ones. It's a safety thing anyway - don't fall into the trap of being another "Mk1 corner-cutter" :)

I'll be at the next monthly meet (I've been a tied up the last two times, so well overdue to appear again!), so we'll have to discuss ABFs :D

[Jarred]

I've heard if they're mounted on the wheels you'll get less hassle, than if they're just loose. If brand new, loose tyres should be ok though. Given how much cheaper quality tyres are OS, I reckon you may as wel try and get new ones.

Got ya text, cya next month! :D

[cartertronic]

...don't fall into the trap of being another "Mk1 corner-cutter"

Yeah, too true. I've cut corners a few times and paid the price - new tyres bought! :)

Pub meet sounds good lads! I'll have to brush the cobwebs of my ABF knowledge haha!

In other news, I finally bit the bullet and bought a daily driver (been using and abusing the Mk1 for a few years now..) Mk4 GL last night. On the topic of not doing things half-arsed, I figured I would do a better job + have time to respray it if I had a daily.

Got a pretty good deal from a mate heading overseas, $5000 with rego to October and about $2500 of receipts already paid for (all maintenance - clutch, belts, water pump, relays, cracked headlight, chipped windscreen, AC fix + misc stuff) to bring it up to RWC. It's got a couple of scratches and dents, but for a daily who gives a crap?

Although there is one thing, the central locking unlocks all the doors.. but won't lock them again :?

Anyone got any idea what this might be (this brave new world of electrics is new to me :D)?

[Jarred]

congrats on the bargain mk 4. Hopefully it's dull-ness will help and inspire you to finish the mk 1 quicker!

[Water Boy]

Dont do an Alex g on the daily!

[cartertronic]

Dont do an Alex g on the daily!

Just looked over his thread great stuff!

Some damn fine metal work in there :)

[GOLFBALLS]

Hey mate, any updates?

[cartertronic]

Quick update.

The crate has been picked up and is on the ocean as we speak :)

Should be here mid September!

Build thread, here we come :banana:

EDIT - I can't believe this thread is 10 pages and the build hasn't started yet hahah! Apologies for the delay!

[Jarred]

finally! woot!

[cartertronic]

Hey all,

Thought I'd let you know, I've finished the 'other project' I've been working on for the past few months while waiting for the crate to arrive..

You can read about it here: http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f40/vwclassifieds-free-ads-auctions-64133.html

PS - Crate is here and unpacked, customs was a nightmare in the end... They 'inspected' it by literally ripping/destroying one side of the crate and spreading everything around the warehouse floor :mad:

Regardless, was like Xmas unpacking all the stuff I've been accumulating :)

Pics to follow (trying to find the cord for the camera!)

[roccodingo]

PS - Crate is here and unpacked, customs was a nightmare in the end... They 'inspected' it by literally ripping/destroying one side of the crate and spreading everything around the warehouse floor :mad:



Hopefully whatever you have bought hasnt been destroyed like the wankers in Quarantine did to 2 of my pristine Scirocco1 doors I bought in several years back...

[cartertronic]

Hopefully whatever you have bought hasnt been destroyed like the wankers in Quarantine did to 2 of my pristine Scirocco1 doors I bought in several years back...

Unbelievable. The guy at the depot said they pulled the whole thing apart then 'high-fived' when they found an insect = billed me an extra $300 for fumigation :facepalm:

[roccodingo]

I had a 1.8 T that they decided to fill with water, Fu** know's what there trying to flush out !!

[cartertronic]

Hey all,

Just a quick post to let you know I've cleaned out the garage and am getting started!

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg249/scaled.php?server=249&filename=img1029v.jpg&res=medium

Taking the old Kjet 8v out as we speak...

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg515/scaled.php?server=515&filename=img1035y.jpg&res=medium

Apologies for the delay!

[GOLFBALLS]

Thats the ticket!
Had your bro round for dinner tonight and took him for a spin in my mk2. Put a smile on his face...
He's just told me about the classifieds thing.
Good to see you finally getting stuck in. Try and keep everything categorised or labelled in some way. There's nothing worse than picking up bits weeks later and thinking "what was this bit off?"

[cartertronic]

Yeah good call on the labelling of things.. I bought a set of plastic drawers and am labelling all bolts/nuts as I take them off (plus wires etc), have also labelled all the kjet fuel pipes and wires for the next guy.

A few years have past since my last engine conversion and I'm a little more patient than I used to be. Last time I did enough to get it running, but not much more. This project I'm going to take my time and do a better job :)

Thinking I'll clean up and spray the engine bay before I drop the 16v in (will do a test drop as I've heard I'll need to knock the drivers side pillar in a a couple of mm with a bell hammer so the belt tensioner will clear)

Can't wait to hear about the Mk2 from Benny, hopefully it might rekindle his passion for Golfs!
(sure he was crapping his daks hahaha!)

Finished taking everything out today... pics below

Engine up and out
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/9231/img1045t.jpg
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/379/img1050at.jpg

Engine and gearbox separated
PS - Engine (Mk2 GTI Kjet 8v) will be posted up for sale soon
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8955/img1052s.jpg

Looking forward to a new year & new beginnings :)
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/3925/img1066xr.jpg

Happy New Year Everyone!

[Jarred]

yay Simon!!

This is finally happenening! :)

[cartertronic]

Hey guys,

Just thought I'd let you know I'm back from holidays and chipping away at it :)

First stop is the brakes (pardon the pun!)

I'm upgrading to a Cordoba booster and master cylinder for greater stopping power..
(my thanks to Peter Jones for his useful guide - How to mod a late booster for Mk1. (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f20/how-mod-late-booster-mk1-11689.html))

Cordoba booster (sans thread that is needed to attach clevis pin)
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/2456/img1136sq.jpg

Using a die to add a M10x1.5 thread..
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/8864/img1141si.jpg

Finished and ready to be fitted..
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/2379/img1143yu.jpg

EDIT - SORTED - Got another boot on the way!
PS - Unfortunately the rubber boot covering the rod from the brake pedal to the start of the brake linkage has split, called VW (Part# is #172 612 109 B) but it's been discontinued.. anyone have a good one of these?
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/9853/img1156bo.jpg

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8717/img1153qq.jpg

Other useful brake modding links from Mr Jones:
Installing Cordoba rear drums on a Mk1 (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f20/installing-cordoba-rear-drums-mk-i-11719.html) (I've already done this)
Mk1 Disc and Caliper Replacement (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f13/todays-disc-brake-replacement-story-11723.html) (I'll be upgrading to GTI calipers & discs shortly)

[cartertronic]

Hey guys,

I've heard a few stories about 020 boxes tearing themselves apart when strapped to ABFs.. the diff rivets being the usual weak point.

Valver - I think I remember you saying you went through a few 020 boxes yourself?

So I'm guessing it makes sense to fit a bolt kit... and if I'm going to get bolts fitted, I may as well replace the open-diff with a LSD at the same time.

Traction bonuses aside, am I being paranoid about the rivets (remembering it's a diesel box - 4T 5spd)?
EDIT: For those reading, I'm starting to uncover it's a matter of 'when' not 'if' with the diff rivets going..

PS - Found a good diff bolt kit 'how to' http://www.brokevw.com/020diff.html

[roccodingo]

changing the rivets for bolts is a sinch, You may need to fabricate a puller to split the trans case tho.
If you go the route of installing a quaife, pelo or wavetrack you will need to check the bearing preload on the bearings during installation and re shim to get it correct. ( shims from VW ) See Brian's web pages ( broke)

Bolts are available from ARP also. (204 - 3001)

Rubber brake boot is still available from classic vw ( VW Heratige )

VW Heritage for VW parts and accessories (http://www.vwheritage.com)

[GoLfMan]

nice Simon, good to see you're back into it!

[mikinoz]

nice Simon, good to see you're back into it!

I concur!

[cartertronic]

Thanks lads! It's good to be back :)

Rocco - Have you done this before? From the looks of BrokeVW's site (Opening the 020 (http://www.brokevw.com/teardown.html)) it looks like I have to dismantle the entire thing to get to the diff??!

Re: testing bearing preload
I'm not sure if I've got the equipment/experience to get this done myself (and be sure of an accurate job) might be best to track someone down to install it.

PS - From what I've heard only 4spds and pre-1984 5spds need to be shimmed?

[roccodingo]

Thanks lads! It's good to be back :)

Rocco - Have you done this before? From the looks of BrokeVW's site (Opening the 020 (http://www.brokevw.com/teardown.html)) it looks like I have to dismantle the entire thing to get to the diff??!

Re: testing bearing preload
I'm not sure if I've got the equipment/experience to get this done myself (and be sure of an accurate job) might be best to track someone down to install it.

PS - From what I've heard only 4spds and pre-1984 5spds need to be shimmed?

Pics are on the bottom of page 2 and some page 3..
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f55/93-cabrio-repairs-21212-2.html

And yes, all apart to take the diff out.

bearing preloads are explained in the bentley manual along with the part numbers for the shims. While your doing the diff , change the syncro's and any damaged gears etc.

I had to locate a torque meter to do the preloads on the new bearings, cost about $600 from some mtool mob in Adelaide, but then have done Wade's O2A since then and still a pile of others to do.

[cartertronic]

Cheers for the link.. you make it look easy :)

Just read Broke VW's rebuild (great resource!): 020 Rebuild (http://www.brokevw.com/020rebuild.html)



...have done Wade's O2A since then and still a pile of others to do.

No chance I can convince you to move to Melbourne? :D


What would you expect to pay to get this done? Any recommendations (in VIC)?

EDIT - Just had a quote from VolksPower for $800 (+any additional parts required).. anyone know of anywhere cheaper?

[roccodingo]

In All honesty Simon, I would consider $800 a bargain price as long as they do the job correctly mate.

The only person I would have trusted doing the O2O here closed up shop and now works in the mining industry ( where the money is ) so it became a necessity to do it.

PM sent.

[cartertronic]

Thanks for the info rocco.. I think I might put this on the back burner for a little bit. I'm low on cash + have a garage full of parts that I should be working with :)

Will start putting away the pennies to do this properly down the track - read: diff & bolts + refurb of box

In other news, I'm slowly moving along with the brakes.. just stripped some GTI calipers back and sprayed them with black caliper paint
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/9287/img1165p.jpg
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/9951/img1166vh.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/3192/img1167lr.jpg

Heard about people cooking them in the home oven (to set caliper paint you need to bake it for 1hr at 90 degree Cel), but don't really want to stink the house out!

BBQ'd Calipers anyone?
http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/8817/img1168oa.jpg

[Jarred]

that's a fantastic idea!

[cartertronic]

that's a fantastic idea!

Thanks mate!

Just turned it off and opened the hood (had 2 of 4 burners on the lowest setting) and looks to have worked a treat :)

Will post up some pics when they've cooled down...

---------- Post added at 10:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:19 PM ----------

Done like a dinner :thumb:

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/2683/img1169qj.jpg

I've got a can of clear here, will try to polish these off tomorrow..

[WABIT]

Sup Simon? :)

dom

[cartertronic]

Sup Simon? :)

dom

Hey mate, long time no see!

Been crazy busy, work is nuts + working on the second phase of VWClassifieds.. chipping away at the mk1 it bit by bit though :)

I see you'e selling up? :(

[WABIT]

car looks great man! yeah bought a new project car, the wabit body is bent and crabwalkingb so no point building a car thats twisted.....

still in the game... just not building a mk1 :)

Dom

[cartertronic]

Thanks mate!

Just checked out your thread http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f55/project-7-4-8-0-gl-68842.html

What a find, it looks mint! Love the B1 shape.. :D
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2012/03/audi_80_gl_1974-1.jpg

[cartertronic]

Decided to stencil my calipers..

Maybe a touch self-indulgent in the choice of design :D
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/

PS - Posted a DIY thread in 'Bodywork/Trim and Detailing' - http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f22/stencil-your-brake-calipers-69031.html

[ByronRichesMk1]

That looks heaps cool!!:driver:

[cartertronic]

That looks heaps cool!!:driver:

Thanks mate! Although I don't think I'm going to bother putting them on now haha!

Had a win at the wreckers today, when this flash of red caught my eye...
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/4133/img1243gc.jpg

It's a 1993 Calibra 2.0L 16v (nicknamed a 'redtop' for obvious reasons), which came standard with 256mm Girling brakes. Pretty rare in Australia, as I think we only got the 2.0L 8v and 2.5L V6 .. so must be an import.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/5731/img1235k.jpg
http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/8063/img1234lf.jpg
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/5896/img1232cz.jpg

Was there to get a radiator hose for the ex-Mrs, so had to go back home for my full kit.. $60 is a bargain anyway you look at it :cool:
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/8144/img1242z.jpg
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1848/img1241uw.jpg

These bolt straight up to Mk1 hubs, I'll just need Mk2 256mm discs and some shoulder bolts (12mm diameter x 25mm, thread is M10 to fit mk1 hubs). The Calibra flexi-lines also fit to the Mk1 brake line :)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2012/03/medium-1.jpghttp://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2012/03/medium-2.jpg

Or cut some 12mm pipe as sleeves..
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2012/03/original-1.jpg

Should look like this once done (although I'm thinking blue :D)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2012/03/original-2.jpg
(these last 4 pics from The Mk1 Golf Owners Club.. see second link below)

Hopefully they fit underneath my 15 inch Ronal R10s!

For anyone interested, keep your eyes open for any of the following:
1988 - 1995 Vectra 16v (GSI)
1984 - 1990 Astra 16v
1988 - 1997 Calibra 16v


For more info see:
The Mk1 Golf Owners Club - Vauxhall 256mm Front Brakes Part 1 (http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=15014)
The Mk1 Golf Owners Club - Vauxhall 256mm Front Brakes Part 2 (http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=17294)
VW Caddy Forum - Chavalier calipers (http://www.vwcaddy.com/showthread.php?t=10758)
VW Caddy Forum - 256mm brakes for everyone and cheap as chips (http://vwcaddyforum.com/showthread.php?t=9659&)

[GoLfMan]

nice score mate! I'll be keeping an eye out for them.

[cartertronic]

Anyone got any recommendations about buying 256mm discs?

[roccodingo]

Anyone got any recommendations about buying 256mm discs?

Have them on the shelf here mate. PM me a mailing address and I can get you a price.

[cartertronic]

Have them on the shelf here mate. PM me a mailing address and I can get you a price.

Cheers mate, PM'd..

Anyone have any experience whether it's worth bothering with drilled/grooved discs? I can't imagine 256mm discs will get hot enough to warp when stopping 850kgs of car :P

[mikinoz]

Overkill is endorsed. These are on the rear of my MK1 :)

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/

[cartertronic]

Overkill is endorsed. These are on the rear of my MK1 :)

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/

They do look mean as hell :)

What brand are they?

[Peter Jones]

Anyone have any experience whether it's worth bothering with drilled/grooved discs? I can't imagine 256mm discs will get hot enough to warp when stopping 850kgs of car :P

Depends what speed you're stopping from.

I've got EBC dimpled and grooved 256mm discs on my white Golf. They get very hot with no issues so far.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/04/P1340191-1.jpg

[cartertronic]

Hmmm...do want 'em, but bit low on cash :(

In other news, picked up bolts, washers and loctite from Metro Bolts in Richmond.. looking forward to fitting it up!

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/3546/img1253bkp.jpg

PS - Bloke recommended 222 to stop vibration, will this be strong enough and resistant to brake heat?

EDIT - Found some info on http://au.iloctite.com/en/red-loctite-threadlocker

"What is the thermal resistance requirement for the assembly? If the heat resistance in excess of 300°F (150°C) is needed, it is recommended that Loctite® 272 Threadlocker to be used."


and then this..

"High-temperature threadlocker Loctite® 272 can be used up to 232 ℃, If you want even higher thermal resistance , then the ultra high temperature products, such as Loctite ®2422 (medium strength) and Loctite ®2620 (high strength) which withstand continuous exposure to temperatures of up to 350C should be used."

Found this technical data:

Loctite 222 Technical Data PDF media.midwayusa.com/pdf/instructions/Loctite_222.pdf
Paying attention to the heat strength and aging graphs
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/3063/screenshot20120314at328.png

So based on that, it drops to a minimum of 25% effectiveness when applied to calipers :(

Loctite 272 Technical Data PDF www.reyher.de/download/Technical_data_sheet_Loctite_272.pdf
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/8500/screenshot20120314at337.png

Loctite 2422 Technical Data PDF
65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/2422-EN.PDF
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/9167/screenshot20120314at429.png

Loctite 2620 Technical Data PDF
65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/2620-EN.PDF
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/803/screenshot20120314at433.png

Looks like 2422 improves at 350 degrees.. interested to know what happens after that!

What do you guys use?

[cartertronic]

Just answered a PM about freight charges etc., thought it beneficial to post it here:

In response to 'how much did it cost to import the engine?':



"It's difficult to say, as I shipped a 2m x 3m crate with heaps of other stuff inside:
-1997 Mk3 GTI (bought whole car) = 461 GBP
-Towing = 165 GBP
-Crate = 240 GBP
-Shipping = 440 GBP
-Customs/Local Freight Handling Fees = $830AU (incl. fumigation charges)

In all honesty, if I had to buy another ABF I would source it locally! Unless you need to bring in a whole lot of other bits and pieces, it'll definitely end up costing you more in time and money... then there's the hassle of arranging it etc.

Either that, or try to find someone with a container coming to Australia, that way you might be able to skip likely hassles with customs...

A word on customs: After picking up my crate that had been literally torn apart by customs officers and reorganising all the items inside that had been piled back in the remains of the crate (damaging several items), I spoke to the freight handler..
He said customs officers actively target small private crates as these are most common for amateur criminals bringing in illegal items/drugs etc. Apparently they also "high-fived" (he witnessed their inspection) when they found a bug, as this means they can charge fumigation fees."

EDIT: Just looked at my original thread post where I said I was planning to keep it under $3000! If you just include the above the total is $2800... mission accomplished :rolleyes: (if you exclude the bucket loads of cash I spent on other bits and pieces haha! :facepalm:)

[cartertronic]

Couple of goodies arrived today :D

VR6 Water Pump Pulley (for power steering and air conditioning delete - since getting a daily driver I've decide not to go down the track of installing AC)
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/p480x480/549604_401261126568040_399387093422110_1393196_663 614934_n.jpg

..and Mk2 256mm Brake Discs (to go with the Calibra 16v calipers and carriers!)
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/p480x480/548634_401262863234533_399387093422110_1393229_140 8197266_n.jpg

[roccodingo]

discs arrived all good mate :D

[cartertronic]

discs arrived all good mate :D

Thanks mate!


..also picked up rear disc setup from Dom today, now to find time to fit it all up!

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/p480x480/563958_402777899749696_399387093422110_1398950_100 4643413_n.jpg

[cartertronic]

Was clearing space in the garage last night and noticed the rear mount bracket (bolted to the transmission) is broken.. not sure how that happened :confused:

That flat piece that sticks out should have two holes for the rear engine mount bolts!
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/8638/img1289e.jpg
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/5118/img1288f.jpg

(or perspective of where this bracket is located...
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/9908/img1290zv.jpg

These should be a dime a dozen, anyone got one lying around?

[Peter Jones]

I've got one.

I've had to weld these up in the past. Makes 'em stronger.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/12/P1320518-1.jpg

[cartertronic]

Great tip!

PM Sent..

[roccodingo]

Yeah, seen a few cracked versions mate..

[cartertronic]

Had a bucks night over the weekend, but managed to make a bit of progress...

Stripped down the front and rear calipers & gave them a good clean
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/5795/img1300d.jpg

Rub a dub-dub, big brakes in the tub
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/708/img1301sr.jpg

Sprayed red and hit with the heat gun, before baking in the oven for an hour.
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/1013/img1319c.jpg

Lunch of champions :headbanger: (cooked prior to brakes)
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/9822/img1317et.jpg

Fronts came out a treat. The clear coat gives them a great shine
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/6909/img1331og.jpg

Rears being fitted
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/4499/img1320j.jpg

Fitted poly bushes for rear beam mounts (with plenty of lithium grease to hopefully stop the squeaks)
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/7336/img1324l.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/4928/img1325zz.jpg

+Mk1 braided lines .. will have to track down some Mk3 braided lines for the other piece of flexi-hose
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9393/img1338h.jpg

Disconnected the old handbrake cables & brake lines, then dropped the old beam with sway bar and Cordoba drums.
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/9817/img1336rc.jpg

A few things to be done while the back is in the air, watch this space :driver:
http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/4725/img1334s.jpg

[cartertronic]

Bit more progress today..

Fitted new rear engine mount bracket (thanks Pete!)
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/1697/img1340ru.jpg

Replaced the rear suspension. Out with the old, in with the new (+poly bushes)
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/9228/img1349e.jpg

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/3751/img1357x.jpg

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/7210/img1359h.jpg

Simple job, but stoked to fit these!

I know the world doesn't need another meme, but couldn't resist :D
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/937/screenshot20120410at111.png

---------- Post added 11-04-2012 at 01:53 PM ---------- Previous post was 10-04-2012 at 11:15 PM ----------

Rang a few places about getting braided lines made (via www.braidedhoses.com.au (http://www.braidedhoses.com.au) - Thanks Pete), seems to be approx. $70-80 per line. Seeing as Mk3 Goodridge kits go for about $100 on ebay, might give custom lines a miss.

One bloke I spoke to reckons buying pre-made brake lines from OS is a bad idea as they don't meet our safety standards!? Find this a bit hard to believe. Maybe no-name lines have suspect quality .. or maybe he's just trying to drum up some business :)

Interested in making them myself, but could be asking for trouble:
Making Braided Lines - Old Britts (http://www.oldbritts.com/brake_line.html)
How to make braided brake lines - Custom Fighters (http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3750)
How to make braided stainless steel brake lines - DoTheTon (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=17424.0)
Teflon hose assembly - Earls Speed (http://www.anplumbing.com/page/10)

[mikinoz]

I use Goodridge lines and if they are good enough for Europe on European cars then they will meet my requirements. I have heard every reason for buying them in Australia. Most insulted when a bloke sold me some custom ones here that had GOODRIDGE on the side of the hose. Same thing just more expensive.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/

Looks like you and I are on about the same path based on this, when are you planning on getting it all finished?

[Peter Jones]

The issue is to do with ADR compliance. The lines need to have part numbers and the part numbers must be ADR approved.

Market here is too small for any manufacturer to bother with going through the process for every item in their inventory.

Realistically you'd think anything DOT or TUV approved would be OK but it's technically illegal.

Somehow the retailers represented by braided hoses.com.au have figured out a way to create paperwork that makes their lines legal.

[gldgti]

GAP sell a braided kit for mk1....they have a good rep so I dont see how they could be a problem. GAP's ones are DOT approved.


Thanks Pete), seems to be approx. $70-80 per line. Seeing as Mk3 Goodridge kits go for about $100 on ebay, might give custom lines a miss.

One bloke I spoke to reckons buying pre-made brake lines from OS is a bad idea as they don't meet our safety standards!? Find this a bit hard to believe. Maybe no-name lines have suspect quality .. or maybe he's just trying to drum up some business :)

Interested in making them myself, but could be asking for trouble:

[cartertronic]

Cheers, for the brake line info all. Well persist with Goodridge lines and swap them over if I hit any legal trouble (car is already rego'd, but will be getting engineers cert. at some stage).


Looks like you and I are on about the same path based on this, when are you planning on getting it all finished?

Seeing as I started this thread in 2009, if I set a deadline I'll probably be laughed off the forum :D

Seriously though, I'm deliberately not setting deadlines and actively taking my time. The more pressure I put on myself, the less I enjoy it and the more mistakes I make!

Looks like I do have similar plans to yourself:
Wheels - Ronal R10s (but not NOS, respect!)
Lower - Half way there!
16V - Keeps giving me the stink eye every time I walk in the garage
Exhaust - Pending
Black interior - Got some nice seats tucked away myself ;)


BTW - Just read through you're thread, inspiring stuff! Your Mk1 is clean as a whistle! Love the Imp too :) Genius politicking with the Type 3, the ladies do love 'em!

A couple of personal highlights haha:
-I see it more like a slightly more mature lady who likes to take their time and show you their skills and give you the mindblowing experience.
-Mrs will get over it. Just use my line: "Well at least I don't spend the money on crack, booze and other minge."

Hahah! Been too long since I heard the word 'minge' :icon_rate_10:

---------- Post added 12-04-2012 at 11:10 PM ---------- Previous post was 11-04-2012 at 11:19 PM ----------

While the back is up and brake lines disconnected, I'm going to fit a proper fuel pump bracket I picked up ages ago.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/4103/kjetbrackets.jpg

Had to remember how this fitted up, luckily I remembered I had some photos from back in 2010 when I was at the VW AutoStadt in Germany.. when the tour guide wasn't looking I shimmied under their Mk1 GTI and took some photos of the fuel pump setup :P

I fitted it up just now, then got some inspiration from Mike's thread and thought I'd clean them up, as some parts were a bit rusty.

Hit them with the drill/wire-brush and coated with rust killer/primer.. will spray them black and fit them up.

[mikinoz]

That is the way. If there is one thing that I am unwilling to do after seeing some proper builds is put **** on a car that is not rusty. Even if it is functional it deserves the time to wire brush and hit them with something. My current favourite coating is aluminium calliper paint - it looks great on everything (that you want to be silver) as it has the proper metallic finish and sprays really well.

You have now jumped ahead of me as I am replacing my whole front brake set up.

These brackets look a bit familiar, thought about using the ones I have but will probably go custom on mine I think. Keep motivated son!!

[roccodingo]

76 shell doesnt have the tabs for the fuel pump and accumalator brackets, I will dig out the measurements tomorrow if your wanting them Simon,
( tab position and size, also what size bolts to weld to the body )

I had to weld the tab's on Anton's car, the PO had the fuel pump cable tied up....

[cartertronic]

That is the way. If there is one thing that I am unwilling to do after seeing some proper builds is put **** on a car that is not rusty. Even if it is functional it deserves the time to wire brush and hit them with something. My current favourite coating is aluminium calliper paint - it looks great on everything (that you want to be silver) as it has the proper metallic finish and sprays really well.

You have now jumped ahead of me as I am replacing my whole front brake set up.

These brackets look a bit familiar, thought about using the ones I have but will probably go custom on mine I think. Keep motivated son!!

They're just Mk1 Kjet brackets, should be available off any Mk1 running a electric fuel pump and accumulator. The big rectangular part has soft foam to reduce pump noise, the pump does buzz occasionally so interesting to see if this makes it quieter.

If you're interested in tracking one down, Cabby's are probably the best bet.. otherwise there should be tons of these overseas.



76 shell doesnt have the tabs for the fuel pump and accumalator brackets, I will dig out the measurements tomorrow if your wanting them Simon,
( tab position and size, also what size bolts to weld to the body )

I had to weld the tab's on Anton's car, the PO had the fuel pump cable tied up....

I did a test fit before I sprayed the brackets and all the mounting bolts were there!? The fuel tank is from a later model Diesel so could explain why it has it's tab.. not sure why the chassis would have them though.

Hopefully get enough time to refit it tonight +pics

[Peter Jones]

Older Volvos are a good source of KJet bracketry too.

[cartertronic]

Older Volvos are a good source of KJet bracketry too.

80's Saabs, Mercs, BMWs would be good bet for Kjet gear as well. I pinched an auxiliary air valve from a BMW a couple of years ago


http://www.autotechnique.fr/autosolve_exemples/mech_inj_fichiers/aux_air_valve.gif

[roccodingo]

fuel pump mount and accumalator mount to the body underside, not the fuel tank. will post you some pics when I get home.

[gecko2k]

Bummer about those mk3 extractors not fitting in there, I've been told they are good for up to 5whp on a mk3.

Would be interesting to know if there is a way around this issue which a) doesn't cost the world b) is not a straight through pipe to regain those potentially lost horses.

But he'll yeah, I like the idea of am ABF in the mk1.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cartertronic]

Fair to say this thread has been seriously neglected, but progress has definitely been made over the last 18months (!)

In rough chronological/project order..

ENGINE BAY
Removed old Mk2 GTI Kjet (engine is for sale btw, will post pic and price soon)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/p417x417/408177_10151091038495462_1624460018_n.jpg

Cut off (and drilled out) the dented front panel
10600

10601

Welded up new panel
https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/p180x540/529347_10152730802225462_527442186_n.jpg

Cleaned, sanded, sprayed and polished engine bay
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/p180x540/1506062_10153860590755462_1506700082_n.jpg

This was a major delay and almost ended it for me. My first attempt at wielding a spray gun was a disaster. The engine bay of a Mk1 is a tricky place to learn to spray paint haha! In hindsight I should have given myself much more time to practice, but I was perhaps too keen and over-confident :)

The result was the worst orange peel I've ever seen! After lots of time devoted to cleaning, sanding and preparing by hand, I was pretty gutted by the result.

It was a while before I could go back into the garage and put a hand to the mk1. I seriously considered getting rid of it. Very glad I didn't though. Eventually I rolled up my sleeves got the sanding paper out and started again. Unwilling to repeat past mistakes, I took the easy route and opted for rattle cans. Much easier in the cramped environment of an engine bay!

[cartertronic]

GEARBOX
Reco'd and Peloquin LSD added (with new arp diff bolts)
https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/q77/s720x720/1426748_10153544735990462_664757722_n.jpg

Cleaned up ready for paint
10606

Primed and painted
10607

10608

10609

More to follow...

[Jarred]

Blast from the past, good to see!

[cartertronic]

Haha yeah, better late than never I guess :rolleyes:

Just checked out your blog, you've definitely been busy! Great stuff!

[vwthunder]

GEARBOX
Reco'd and Peloquin LSD added (with new arp diff bolts)


Who installed the LSD ?

Just curious for the future :P

[cartertronic]

Who installed the LSD ?

Just curious for the future :P

Was done by Volkswerke in Greensborough.

Happy that it was done, but took a long while to be completed!