Arctra
22-05-2009, 11:55 AM
A lot of the threads so far are around buying your new Tiguan, but once that's done you have the ongoing maintenance and care of the vehicle. So i thought I'd start a thread that will hopefully be contributed to and become sticky.
Please try and avoid putting in unhelpful opinions and going off topic so that the thread remains useful. I've started it with what I have found out so far, but there are many other areas that will be covered I'm sure. I'll try maintain this first post with updates.
Disclaimer: I am no mechanic or VW expert. I simply try and work of the knowledge of those in the know. Please do not hold me responsible for any damage resulting from the advice in this post/thread. It is simply provided as assistance should you wish to take it. Feel free to disregard it if you do not agree.
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Engine Care
Running-in TDI Engine
Running a TDI engine in summary (Please note a pertol engine will require different treatment):
It's not rocket science. Just drive the thing as you intend to - with two exceptions:
Don't sit on the highway with the cruise control on for extended periods.
Warm the bugger up properly before planting the boot. To do this, all you need to do is move off straight after starting (no letting it idle for 5 minutes - and no sitting there revving the tit's off it to get it warmed up!). The quickest way to warm up the engine is to drive it - but gently until it's properly warmed (about 5-10min on most cars).
After that, "drive it like you intend to drive after it's run-in"
Recommend reading this thread on running-in your diesel engine: TDIClub Forums - View Single Post - Diesel Engine Break-In Myth? (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2264550&postcount=28)
First 1000KM’s
Cold: no higher than 2800 RPM till warmed up
Warm: 3000 to 3800 RPM
1000KM’s to 10000KM’s
Cold: no higher than 2800 RPM till warmed up
Warm: 3000 to 5100 RPMAlways bear in mind that engine wear is greatest when the engine is cold, so don't push to higher revs until the engine is fully up to temperature. Also be aware the temperature gauge in the Tiguan is the WATER temperature, not the engine oil temperature which takes longer to get up to. Give the engine 5 to 10 minutes worth of normal driving to warm up.
Accelerate and decelerate to put pressure on the rings during running in period. Deceleration and compression/engine braking are good during running in.
Running-in Petrol Engine From owner's manual (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showpost.php?p=389669&postcount=5)
Read what the manual says.... then just drive normally.
Babying it will only give you shiny cylinders and oil use later.
Awaiting further contributions
Warming-up Diesel and Petrol engines
In Brad's words: "With any car - Start - drive sedately until warm - resume normal service. You need too warm brakes, bearings, gearbox, etc not just engine."
Recommend reading this thread on warming-up your diesel engine: Warming up a diesel? (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=12842)
Awaiting contributions for petrol engines
Recommended Petrol Engine Fuel:
VW Australia require you to use Premium Unleaded Petrol (PULP) with a RON of 98 to keep your warranty valid. DO NOT USE E10 as it's alcohol level is too high and will void your warranty. See this thread on E10 and what petrol to use: E10 unleaded,does it work? (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=30879)
Recommended Oils
TDI Engine Oil: 4.0L VW Approved (VW507.00) example: Penrite Enviro+ 5W30; Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W30
It’s recommended you use VW Genuine, but if you are in a bind use aftermarket 5W30 Synthetic rather than running low on oil.
It is recommended you check your oil level every 2000km's to make sure the level is still good. Do not be alarmed if the Diesel engine uses some oil as this is normal.
Recommended Petrol Engine Oil: VW504.00/507.00 Castrol SLX Proffesional formula 5W30. A less expensive oil option is VW factory approved Penrite Enviro+ 5W30 (VW540.00/507.00).
It’s recommended you use VW Genuine, but if you are in a bind use aftermarket 5W30 rather than running low on oil.
Recommended Manual Transmission oil: Penrite Manual Gear Oil 70 (capacity = 2.3L)
Automatic transmission oil: Fuchs Tital ATF 4400 transmission fluid (4-5L for a service, including dropping the pan, 7L is when you've fitted a brand new torque converter and transmission).
Recommended Front Diff oil (Front bevel box): Penrite Transaxle 75 or Fuchs Titan Sintopoid FE SAE 75W-85 (capacity = 0.9L)
Recommended Rear Diff oil (Rear Final Drive): Penrite Transaxle 75 or Fuchs Titan Sintopoid FE SAE 75W-85 (capacity = 1.0L)
Haldex: It seems my only option here is to buy the VW Haldex fluid (approx 800ml-850ml)
DIY Tiguan Drivetrain fluid changes thread - http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f97/[help]-tiguan-drivetrain-fluid-changes-116142.html
Tyre and Wheels
Tyre pressure recommended: 35PSI/36PSI
Measure tyre pressure when the tyre is cold/not been driven yet. Pressure will rise when tyres heat up. With heavier loads you should put the pressure up a few PSI.
A general rule of thumb for tyre pressure is to look up the maximum recommended pressure for your specific tyre (should be somewhere on the tyre wall) and subtract 10% from that. So if the tyre's max pressure is 40psi, then as a guide inflate it to 36psi (40-4psi).
For those with the Off-road technology, the low tyre pressure sensor actually uses the rotation speed of the wheel to determine circumference in order to determine whether pressure has fallen. It has to be around 7PSI different to the other wheels to be picked up by system and set off the alarm.
Wheel nut tightness: 120NM of Torque
Good tyre repair/replacement workshops will tighten your wheel nuts with a Torque Wrench in diagonal patern to make sure they are tight enough, but not over tightened. If you see them just using the rattle gun it’s advisable to ask them to loosen the nuts again and hand tighten them using a Torque Wrench. This will save you a lot of frustration if you need to change the tyre.
Wheel and Tyre size Graphic Calculator (http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp)
OEM wheel specs:
16" rims: 16x6.5" ET33, 5x112 PCD Wheel load 625kg
17" rims: 17x7" ET43
18" rims: 18x7"
19" rims: 19x9"
Bolt Pattern: 5x112
Center Bore: 57.1
Hardware:14x1.50 Bolt
Offset: 34-42mm
Tyres fitment option
16 inch - 225/65-16
17 inch - 235/55-17
18 inch - 235/50-18
19 inch - 235/45-19
20 inch - 255/35-20 (ET35)
See this thread for wheel options and details: http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?p=378054#post378054
Interior Care
Leather protection – do not spray a sealer on the leather as not allowing them to breathe will reduce the life of your leather (that equals cracking). Any good aftermarket leather cleaner followed by conditioner twice a year will see your seats looking great and feeling new. Your seats will need cleaning because sweat, dust and spills are a fact of life. See the Car Care Products video on leather protection here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2Gyw06nEhc&feature=channel)
Carpet treatment – Dealers offer this for $300 to protect your carpets and plastic. 3M Scotchguard is probably your best bet for this and you can do it yourself.
Exterior care
Paint protection –Volkswagen recommend you wax your vehicle every 6 months. The dealer’s high quality paint protection for around the $1000 mark is really a $20 bottle of paint sealant applied by machine. Depending on who does the job could make your vehicle look fantastic for the first few washes or wreck your paint work with swirl marks. Most paint protection products need to be reapplied at the 12 month period. No matter what you apply to your finish it will wear away with washing and time so keeping it covered with a good quality wax is the best way to go. If you need a paint protection then look up the blokes who do it for a living, they take pride in their job and will advise you on your individual needs, also at a reasonable price.
Windscreen washer additive VW Part No: G 052 164 M2
Cleaning vehicle
See the Care Care Products video library thread in the Detailing section of the forum: http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=34332
These are great quick and easy video's on how to do the job properly!
Recommended reading:
DMS_Dan's post in the "Washing a new car's paintjob" post on VWWatercooled Forums (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showpost.php?p=319934&postcount=6)
Mytreg forums "How to car care guide" (http://www.mytreg.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=318)
Summary:
Snow Foam Application using Pressure Washer to remove easy dirt
Two bucket method (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBo76v2je44&feature=channel) washing down using pile mitt (not sponge)
Top-down rinse
Clay bar detailing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9kcqo5kYpY&feature=channel) to remove bonded contaminants
Polishing the vehicle (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zomjIJTBdSM)
Glazing
Sealant for mirror-like wet finish
Wax/Last stage protection (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luRUcfaDz0o&feature=channel)
There is a lot of detail in the thread to make sure your vehicle looks showroom clean.
Please try and avoid putting in unhelpful opinions and going off topic so that the thread remains useful. I've started it with what I have found out so far, but there are many other areas that will be covered I'm sure. I'll try maintain this first post with updates.
Disclaimer: I am no mechanic or VW expert. I simply try and work of the knowledge of those in the know. Please do not hold me responsible for any damage resulting from the advice in this post/thread. It is simply provided as assistance should you wish to take it. Feel free to disregard it if you do not agree.
----------------
Engine Care
Running-in TDI Engine
Running a TDI engine in summary (Please note a pertol engine will require different treatment):
It's not rocket science. Just drive the thing as you intend to - with two exceptions:
Don't sit on the highway with the cruise control on for extended periods.
Warm the bugger up properly before planting the boot. To do this, all you need to do is move off straight after starting (no letting it idle for 5 minutes - and no sitting there revving the tit's off it to get it warmed up!). The quickest way to warm up the engine is to drive it - but gently until it's properly warmed (about 5-10min on most cars).
After that, "drive it like you intend to drive after it's run-in"
Recommend reading this thread on running-in your diesel engine: TDIClub Forums - View Single Post - Diesel Engine Break-In Myth? (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2264550&postcount=28)
First 1000KM’s
Cold: no higher than 2800 RPM till warmed up
Warm: 3000 to 3800 RPM
1000KM’s to 10000KM’s
Cold: no higher than 2800 RPM till warmed up
Warm: 3000 to 5100 RPMAlways bear in mind that engine wear is greatest when the engine is cold, so don't push to higher revs until the engine is fully up to temperature. Also be aware the temperature gauge in the Tiguan is the WATER temperature, not the engine oil temperature which takes longer to get up to. Give the engine 5 to 10 minutes worth of normal driving to warm up.
Accelerate and decelerate to put pressure on the rings during running in period. Deceleration and compression/engine braking are good during running in.
Running-in Petrol Engine From owner's manual (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showpost.php?p=389669&postcount=5)
Read what the manual says.... then just drive normally.
Babying it will only give you shiny cylinders and oil use later.
Awaiting further contributions
Warming-up Diesel and Petrol engines
In Brad's words: "With any car - Start - drive sedately until warm - resume normal service. You need too warm brakes, bearings, gearbox, etc not just engine."
Recommend reading this thread on warming-up your diesel engine: Warming up a diesel? (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=12842)
Awaiting contributions for petrol engines
Recommended Petrol Engine Fuel:
VW Australia require you to use Premium Unleaded Petrol (PULP) with a RON of 98 to keep your warranty valid. DO NOT USE E10 as it's alcohol level is too high and will void your warranty. See this thread on E10 and what petrol to use: E10 unleaded,does it work? (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=30879)
Recommended Oils
TDI Engine Oil: 4.0L VW Approved (VW507.00) example: Penrite Enviro+ 5W30; Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W30
It’s recommended you use VW Genuine, but if you are in a bind use aftermarket 5W30 Synthetic rather than running low on oil.
It is recommended you check your oil level every 2000km's to make sure the level is still good. Do not be alarmed if the Diesel engine uses some oil as this is normal.
Recommended Petrol Engine Oil: VW504.00/507.00 Castrol SLX Proffesional formula 5W30. A less expensive oil option is VW factory approved Penrite Enviro+ 5W30 (VW540.00/507.00).
It’s recommended you use VW Genuine, but if you are in a bind use aftermarket 5W30 rather than running low on oil.
Recommended Manual Transmission oil: Penrite Manual Gear Oil 70 (capacity = 2.3L)
Automatic transmission oil: Fuchs Tital ATF 4400 transmission fluid (4-5L for a service, including dropping the pan, 7L is when you've fitted a brand new torque converter and transmission).
Recommended Front Diff oil (Front bevel box): Penrite Transaxle 75 or Fuchs Titan Sintopoid FE SAE 75W-85 (capacity = 0.9L)
Recommended Rear Diff oil (Rear Final Drive): Penrite Transaxle 75 or Fuchs Titan Sintopoid FE SAE 75W-85 (capacity = 1.0L)
Haldex: It seems my only option here is to buy the VW Haldex fluid (approx 800ml-850ml)
DIY Tiguan Drivetrain fluid changes thread - http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f97/[help]-tiguan-drivetrain-fluid-changes-116142.html
Tyre and Wheels
Tyre pressure recommended: 35PSI/36PSI
Measure tyre pressure when the tyre is cold/not been driven yet. Pressure will rise when tyres heat up. With heavier loads you should put the pressure up a few PSI.
A general rule of thumb for tyre pressure is to look up the maximum recommended pressure for your specific tyre (should be somewhere on the tyre wall) and subtract 10% from that. So if the tyre's max pressure is 40psi, then as a guide inflate it to 36psi (40-4psi).
For those with the Off-road technology, the low tyre pressure sensor actually uses the rotation speed of the wheel to determine circumference in order to determine whether pressure has fallen. It has to be around 7PSI different to the other wheels to be picked up by system and set off the alarm.
Wheel nut tightness: 120NM of Torque
Good tyre repair/replacement workshops will tighten your wheel nuts with a Torque Wrench in diagonal patern to make sure they are tight enough, but not over tightened. If you see them just using the rattle gun it’s advisable to ask them to loosen the nuts again and hand tighten them using a Torque Wrench. This will save you a lot of frustration if you need to change the tyre.
Wheel and Tyre size Graphic Calculator (http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp)
OEM wheel specs:
16" rims: 16x6.5" ET33, 5x112 PCD Wheel load 625kg
17" rims: 17x7" ET43
18" rims: 18x7"
19" rims: 19x9"
Bolt Pattern: 5x112
Center Bore: 57.1
Hardware:14x1.50 Bolt
Offset: 34-42mm
Tyres fitment option
16 inch - 225/65-16
17 inch - 235/55-17
18 inch - 235/50-18
19 inch - 235/45-19
20 inch - 255/35-20 (ET35)
See this thread for wheel options and details: http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?p=378054#post378054
Interior Care
Leather protection – do not spray a sealer on the leather as not allowing them to breathe will reduce the life of your leather (that equals cracking). Any good aftermarket leather cleaner followed by conditioner twice a year will see your seats looking great and feeling new. Your seats will need cleaning because sweat, dust and spills are a fact of life. See the Car Care Products video on leather protection here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2Gyw06nEhc&feature=channel)
Carpet treatment – Dealers offer this for $300 to protect your carpets and plastic. 3M Scotchguard is probably your best bet for this and you can do it yourself.
Exterior care
Paint protection –Volkswagen recommend you wax your vehicle every 6 months. The dealer’s high quality paint protection for around the $1000 mark is really a $20 bottle of paint sealant applied by machine. Depending on who does the job could make your vehicle look fantastic for the first few washes or wreck your paint work with swirl marks. Most paint protection products need to be reapplied at the 12 month period. No matter what you apply to your finish it will wear away with washing and time so keeping it covered with a good quality wax is the best way to go. If you need a paint protection then look up the blokes who do it for a living, they take pride in their job and will advise you on your individual needs, also at a reasonable price.
Windscreen washer additive VW Part No: G 052 164 M2
Cleaning vehicle
See the Care Care Products video library thread in the Detailing section of the forum: http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=34332
These are great quick and easy video's on how to do the job properly!
Recommended reading:
DMS_Dan's post in the "Washing a new car's paintjob" post on VWWatercooled Forums (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showpost.php?p=319934&postcount=6)
Mytreg forums "How to car care guide" (http://www.mytreg.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=318)
Summary:
Snow Foam Application using Pressure Washer to remove easy dirt
Two bucket method (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBo76v2je44&feature=channel) washing down using pile mitt (not sponge)
Top-down rinse
Clay bar detailing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9kcqo5kYpY&feature=channel) to remove bonded contaminants
Polishing the vehicle (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zomjIJTBdSM)
Glazing
Sealant for mirror-like wet finish
Wax/Last stage protection (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luRUcfaDz0o&feature=channel)
There is a lot of detail in the thread to make sure your vehicle looks showroom clean.