washing a new car's paintjob

[BL33SU]

how do u avoid scratches and marks when washing a brand new car to protect the paint??

[jasn78]

mate, im prob going to miss something here so dan will fill in any blanks , the main aim is trying not to spread dust etc with the stuff u are using to clean the car with

first use 2 buckets 1 with something like p21s bodyconditioner "only saying this cause thats what i use" 1 filled with clean water

2. do wheels b4 cleaning rest with seperate cloth and bucket "saves bringing brake dust onto rest of car"

3. presoak if u can to get rid of most of the serious dirt.

4. rinse the presoak off

5. use a good quality or in my case 2 or 3 good mf or lambswhool i keep one for lower sections compared to upper as bottom has more dirt on it.

6. constantly rinse your mf or lambswool to keep it clean.

7. use a waffle weave cloth instead of a chamois to reduce amount of rubbing u do when the car is dry.

or just check out www.detailparadise.com.au

[brad]

Don't use a $2 sponge, it will trap dirt & scratch the paint. You need a Microfibre noodle mitt or a lambswool.
Use some decent carwash detergent. Something like Duragloss or Meguirs Softwash.
Use one bucket with suds; another with fresh water.
Hose the car.
Swish the mitt around in the suds. Wash a panel at a time. Use a back & forth motion - not circular.
Rinse the panel.
Rinse the mitt in the fresh water
Finish car.
Dry with a microfibre towel. Chamois will trap dirt & scratch the paint.


That's the short version:)

[BL33SU]

hmmm thanks guys!

i need to start buying stuff then :duh:

[jasn78]

hmmm thanks guys!

i need to start buying stuff then :duh:

and u thought just modding ur car could get expensive :)

i dont want to count how much ive spent on products lol

if i was u i would check out a few detailing forums b4 going out and buying stuff save u time and money by getting good stuff first off

[DMS_Dan]

Here you go

I’ve been requested to write a how to guide for people that want to look after their car but with premium based products.

Before I start ill just say the products and process I use will not work for everyone in the world. You really need to use this as a guide and find what works best for you. In saying that I’m not going to get to technical so you will be able to work out what is what very easily. Some of the products mentioned will be off the shelf variants. All the products I’m mentioning I have had personal experience with. All products are available from Car Care Products.

Washing

Washing the car is the most regular thing we do in terms of maintaince. There is a lot of info floating around regarding what to use what not to use etc. There are 3 main principals that if followed will see you washing correctly every time. They are
1. 2 Buckets
2. PH Neutral Wash
3. Microfiber

Why 2 Buckets?
When you wash the car the dirt from the car gets transferred to your mitt. When you dunk it back into the wash solution that dirt stays in the solution for next time. Effectively what you’re doing is washing your car with dirty water.
When you use 2 buckets one is full of wash solution and the other rinse water.
Once you have hosed down the car (preferably with a HP washer) you get your clean mitt and dip it into the wash solution. Using very light pressure wipe the dirty panel using straight lines, not circular motions.
Once you have done say a guard or half the bonnet, dip the mitt into the rinse water and run your fingers through the fibres to help get the dirt out. Squeeze the water out of the mitt.
Return the mitt to the wash solution and do the next panel. As always do this in the shade, don’t let the shampoo dry etc.
It’s always to go from top down. Personally I do the wheels and tyres last but it’s up to you. I give them a HP rinse before I start and I finish them off by hand. I don’t use wheel cleaners unless they are very very bad and the one I use you can’t buy, however ill still give you some good ones to try.

Product Recommendations
Dodo Born to Be Mild (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/dodo_juice/born_to_be_mild_shampoo)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/qmxr25ze-1.jpg

Duragloss Cherry wash Concentrate (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/duragloss/car_wash_concentrate)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/3rsxc5cf-1.jpg

Aquatouch Microfiber Wash Mitt (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/aquatouch/ultra_microfibre_multi_purpose_mitt)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/spfnmmrf-1.jpg

Mint Microfiber Wash Mitt (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/mint/microfibre_plush_wash_mitt)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/cajky3ax-1.jpg

Drying

Once the car is all washed, it’s time to dry. To dry there is no better tool than a Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel (WWDT). I use the extra largo towel, which is able to try a whole Land cruiser or Discovery without being wrung out. You could most likely get away with a large if you wished but IMO the XL is the way to go.

To dry using a WWDT is very simple. I fold it into quarters to start. I then dry the windows to help prime the towel. This isn’t necessary when new but after a while (like a year) it will help them dry.
When drying the paint again use no pressure and slowly drag the towel across the paintwork. If there are trace amounts of water left flip the towel and give it another light pass over.
Once that section of the towel gets saturated turn it inside out and go again.

Product recommendations
Mint WWDT (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/mint/microfibre_drying_towel_waffle_weave_x_large)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/7qxa8f86-1.jpg

Waxing or Sealing and Polishing

Waxing is a crucial step in the care if your vehicle. It protects the surface from the everyday nasties like Bird bombs, tree sap, water deposits etc.
It’s also very important to note that waxing and polishing are 2 very different things!! I have outlined this in a different thread but I’m about to copy it into here so scroll down if you have read it.
The biggest misconception I come across in detailing is people that don’t understand the difference between waxing and polishing. I can see how they get confused, it’s the car care product manufactures fault mostly. Anyway here you go.

Polishing

Polishing is used to fix paint defects. Polishes can be either chemical or abrasive. Chemical polishers include things like Swissvax cleaner fluid, polylack nano clean, zymol HD Cleanse. They chemically clean the surface to remove contaminants and defects. They will not remove swirl marks. For this you need an abrasive polish.
Abrasive polish there are many brands. The best I have used is Menzerna. But the Meguiar’s professional range is abrasive as is the optimum polishing range. Abrasive polishes need a machine to reach their full potential. Either a random orbital or a rotary. Abrasive polishes have tiny little abrasives suspended in the liquid. This is what does the work the size and type of abrasive varies depending on the polish you use. The abrasives round the edges of the scratches and swirls so they can no longer be seen. In the case of swirls and fine scratches they are removed. In the case of deep scratches they are always reduced and with the use of wet/dry sand paper can be removed. Menzerna Powergloss has large abrasives which remove large defects but leave the surface full of marring and quite dull. Then there is Menzerna intensive polish this is between the two but on most colours needs to be followed with final finish. This depends on the pad used. Menzerna Final Finish leaves the surface free from defects and with a great depth and shine. Here are some pics so you can see the difference

After powergloss

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/SUC30137-1.jpg
After Intensive polish
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/SUC30138-1.jpg

After final finish

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/SUC30139-1.jpg

Waxing

Waxing is the last step you do when washing or detailing your car. That is why you may see it referred to as the LSP (last step product). The purpose of waxing is to create a barrier between your paint and the environment. Most waxes contain UV inhibitors to stop the sun damaging the paint. They also repel water which stops your paint getting etchings from watermarks. There are many may different LSP's out there both natural or synthetic or even a mixture of both. Natural waxes tend to give more of a warmth and a glow. These waxes range in price starting at around $50 and up to $19000. Brands include Swissvax, Zymol, P21S, Dodo and many many more. These are the boutique brand waxes. You can get off the shelf waxes but I don’t rate them for durability or look personally. If they are working for you then go for it! Natural waxes also tend to bead water. This means the water forms tight little beads that run off very easily. If you have a freshly waxed car and drive it in the rain you will find the water will just run off. The lower end waxes and off the shelf waxes last 3-5 weeks before needing to be reapplied whereas the higher end can last 6-8 weeks.

Synthetic

Synthetic products do not contain wax. They, for the most part contain polymers or acrylic. These are the two main types of sealers. Sealers include Duragloss 105, Zaino Z2 and Z5, Polylack Nano seal, Optimum opti seal, Klasse AIO, Zaino AIO. Sealants start at around $35 for the boutique brands. I have found Zaino to be the best as it can be layered unlimited times but still remains optically perfect if you use Z2. Z5 will not as it has fillers to hide swirling. Sealants give a different look to wax. It gives a look that is best described as sterile. The paint is shiny but it lacks the warmness and glow of a natural wax. Some sealants like the Klasse make the car look like it has a plastic coating. Some people love this look so leave it others, like myself, don't and then top it with a natural wax. Synthetics tend to sheet water. The water wont form beads, rather it will just run off in a sheet is the best way to describe it. Sealants leave a very slick and slippery surface. Sealants also last a lot longer than a wax with most giving at least 3 months protection and up to 12 months for layered sealants.
Combination waxes
These have a mix of both natural and synthetic waxes present. These are waxes like Optimum car wax (OCW). They are a good compromise as they give the look of a natural wax and some of the durability of a sealant. Layered OWC can last 3-4 months.
Filler waxes
These are waxes like Meguiar’s NXT range. They contain things called fillers which fill swirls and scratches. The fillers also mute the metallic in the paint so it won’t pop as much. As the product wears off the defects return. I don’t like filler products as they wear off and the surface looks bad again.

This car has natural wax (Swissol Scuderia ~$200) http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/IMG_1032-1.jpg

This one has Zaino Z2 Pro layered 3 times and topped with Z8 http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/P2106878-1.jpg

[DMS_Dan]

Product Recommendations

Polishing
Menzerna Polish kit (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/menzerna/sampler_kit)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/2wtttvhe-1.jpg

Heavy Duty - Menzerna Powergloss (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/menzerna/powergloss_compound) (High Cut, very low gloss)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/mzmj9fzj-1.jpg

Medium duty – Menzerna P203S (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/menzerna/power_finish) (medium to high cut, medium gloss. Follow with PO85RD)


Light duty/High gloss – Menzerna 106FF (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/menzerna/final_finish_oem_hi_cut) (same gloss as 85RD but more cut, use on its own)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/2346getk-1.jpg

High Gloss/ Very light duty – Menzerna PO85RD (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/menzerna/final_finish_hi_gloss) (same gloss as 106FF but very little cut, use after P203S)

Wax
Dodo Supernatural Paste Wax (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/dodo_juice/supernatural-0)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/kt4fvbt8-1.jpg

Dodo Colour Charged Soft wax (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/dodo_juice/orange_crush)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/37k3hmf9-1.jpg
(note: the above link if for Orange crush. Look at the other soft wax's to pick the best one for your paint type)

Dodo Colour Charged Hard Wax (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/dodo_juice/hard_candy)


Dodo Lime Prime (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/dodo_juice/lime_prime)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/vszkdn6r-1.jpg

Dodo Lime Prime Lite (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/dodo_juice/lime_prime_lite)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/xw2bdj8gjpg1210817978-1.jpg

Sealant
Duragloss 105 (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/duragloss/total_performance_polish)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/vv8bb75m-1.jpg

Duragloss 111 (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/duragloss/clear_coat_polish)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/yu3hueeb-1.jpg

Zaino Z2 (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/zaino/z2_pro_show_car_polish)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/zeh72cf5-1.jpg

Spray Hybrids
Optimum Car Wax (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/optimum/spray_car_wax)

Duragloss Aquawax. (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/duragloss/aquawax)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/3a9ssyun-1.jpg

Not as long lasting as OCW but it’s applied while the car is wet, is the perfect boost to a car sealed in Duragloss 105. It adds a very nice shine and some extra protection and only takes an extra 3 or 4 mins.

Ill add more and more to this over the next few days and weeks. If you want something covered let me know. Once its done the car care products guys are going to turn it into a PDF and it will be available for download.

Dan

[jasn78]

lol told u dan would fill in the missing parts :)

[DMS_Dan]

lol told u dan would fill in the missing parts :)

lol it wasnt easy. its usually one post but it went over the 100000 character limit lol then i had t many pics so its not as pretty as it usually is

[jasn78]

lol it wasnt easy. its usually one post but it went over the 100000 character limit lol then i had t many pics so its not as pretty as it usually is

mate as per usual brilliant write up got to say reading ur posts and damians he may be an artist at the detailing biz but find urs alot easier to read.

also on ur sealants waxes etc since the op asked should he be careful about applying sealants to new cars?

[BL33SU]

omg!! i think i'l jst take it to a carwash

[jasn78]

omg!! i think i'l jst take it to a carwash

NOOOOOO

dont mate u just spend a bit of time and money u will do such a better job

or go c a proper detailer not one of those turkeys on every corner

[DMS_Dan]

mate as per usual brilliant write up got to say reading ur posts and damians he may be an artist at the detailing biz but find urs alot easier to read.

also on ur sealants waxes etc since the op asked should he be careful about applying sealants to new cars?

Thanks very much mate. It means a lot

No the first thing that should be done to a new car is to have it sealed or wax'd. The paint has well and truely cured by the time it gets to you so it needs to be protected ASAP



omg!! i think i'l jst take it to a carwash

Then i guarantee that you will have sooooo many marks, swirls and scratches if you do that. Its seriously not hard and if you dont want to do it yourself then there are people out there that will do it for you but expect to pay proper money for a proper job.

[fuzion]

wow dan, nice write up ..

its simple as this

you like your car
look after it

you dont like your car
take it to a car wash

and if you dont listen to all the information Dan provided you then you need to also grab some APC and give your head a goos wash!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZjWkB_q2lE

[Mrk_Mickey]

Pierre I hate to disagree with you but that test is a bit stupid. It's obviously not a proper handwash if they don't use good tools to clean the car. Using the squeegie thingo was a bad idea and ruins the results of the handwash..

Oh and Dan that write-up is excellent. There's nothing I have forgotten from the detailing day, but it's still nice and refreshing to go over again :) Can a mod sticky this thread please?

Ray...PLEASE. you've got your car resprayed, get a detailer to JUST give it a wash and seal/wax if nothing else. Dan could do it for you, IIRC it shouldn't be more than 150-200 bucks either! but that could be wrong. DO IT! :n:

[fuzion]

Pierre I hate to disagree with you but that test is a bit stupid. It's obviously not a proper handwash if they don't use good tools to clean the car. Using the squeegie thingo was a bad idea and ruins the results of the handwash..

Oh and Dan that write-up is excellent. There's nothing I have forgotten from the detailing day, but it's still nice and refreshing to go over again :) Can a mod sticky this thread please?

Ray...PLEASE. you've got your car resprayed, get a detailer to JUST give it a wash and seal/wax if nothing else. Dan could do it for you, IIRC it shouldn't be more than 150-200 bucks either! but that could be wrong. DO IT! :n:

mrk... the vid was to show what those car wash people to in overall. not to to say that they are all like so, or dont do it etc.. it was a comparison to show people what really happens.

im sure dan does a wash'n'wax 'thing' as well as the guys at car care products too in rozelle. pay the money and take care of it and you will be happy with the outcome from it at the end of the day!

But he has given you ample knowledge here on how to do it all yourself, you would be better off buying the products he recommends and it would be in the long run cheaper then you PAYING somebody everytime to wash your car for you!

[jasn78]

Thanks very much mate. It means a lot

No the first thing that should be done to a new car is to have it sealed or wax'd. The paint has well and truely cured by the time it gets to you so it needs to be protected ASAP



Dan, by the sounds of mikey's comment this is a new paint job rather than how u and me both read it as a new car does that make a difference to waxes sealants?

[BL33SU]

i was refering to a "new car".... but if its the same process then doesnt matter..

[Mrk_Mickey]

Dan, by the sounds of mikey's comment this is a new paint job rather than how u and me both read it as a new car does that make a difference to waxes sealants?

I believe that you can only do the world of good to a new car OR a new painjob...they're essentially similar outcomes; protecting them when they're at their prime is a very smart idea :).

[jasn78]

I believe that you can only do the world of good to a new car OR a new painjob...they're essentially similar outcomes; protecting them when they're at their prime is a very smart idea :).

yeah but mickey i have read on a few other forums if its a new respray etc u need to leave it a couple of weeks or months to let the paint breathe so the oils or something can come out first

i dont understand it but just what i have read elsewhere

[fuzion]

yeah but mickey i have read on a few other forums if its a new respray etc u need to leave it a couple of weeks or months to let the paint breathe so the oils or something can come out first

i dont understand it but just what i have read elsewhere

No your right there, if its a new paint job it takes about 1 month for it to be completely set.

The baking room only speeds the process of the paint to dry however from what i've been told its about a month when you should do something with it.

New car, prob best to do a whole process of clay bar and so forth as if you think logically the car has sat @ (say its a bmw/vw/audi); in the factory in Germany for 1-3 months, on the boat over here for 2-3 months and then @ the port for another few weeks/months again collecting chemicals from the airport (jetfuel, acid rain, storm/wind/dust) amongst other things..

[DubSteve]

No your right there, if its a new paint job it takes about 1 month for it to be completely set.

The baking room only speeds the process of the paint to dry however from what i've been told its about a month when you should do something with it.

New car, prob best to do a whole process of clay bar and so forth as if you think logically the car has sat @ (say its a bmw/vw/audi); in the factory in Germany for 1-3 months, on the boat over here for 2-3 months and then @ the port for another few weeks/months again collecting chemicals from the airport (jetfuel, acid rain, storm/wind/dust) amongst other things..

Exactly right, I still haven't washed my car from the paintjob last year haha:brutal: :duh:

[fuzion]

probably not an idea to listen to Steve at this point in time lol

[Mrk_Mickey]

That's an interesting point, if my car gets repaired I'm glad I'll know what to do with the new resprayed bits then!

[DMS_Dan]

yeah but mickey i have read on a few other forums if its a new respray etc u need to leave it a couple of weeks or months to let the paint breathe so the oils or something can come out first

i dont understand it but just what i have read elsewhere

It varies between, painter, paint system, how it was baked and for how long, plastic or metal parts. There are so many variables the ONLY advice to follow in a respray scenario is that of the person that painted your car

[KWICKS]

Hey Dan,

I'm told over at Paradise that Dodo Juice Purple Haze has well known issues but noone is saying what? Can you help me out here?

[DMS_Dan]

Hey Dan,

I'm told over at Paradise that Dodo Juice Purple Haze has well known issues but noone is saying what? Can you help me out here?

Sure mate. Version 1 that came in the glass jar didnt like the aussie conditions. they are made in the UK so obviously there is a fair bit of climatic difference. All the issues have been sorted with version 2 which is in the plastic jars, which everyone would have. In saying that i have used a glass jar purple haze and didnt have any issues. The dodo stuff now gets sent to car care products for testing before release to make sure its compatible here. Thats why its a good idea to buy local. For example the red mist in the UK is a different formulation to out red mist. The UK version dries almost instantly here, unless its a cold wet day.

[KWICKS]

Cool, I have the plastic tub one. And like it!

[JVLR32]

Hey boys as a detailer myself...Dan you know your **** hahaha:bowdown:

[TA13B]

wash it urself u dud lol, dont take no where near a car washh..

[apom]

Hi dan, I was referred to this thread from one I started today also about washing. Very well written, thanks for the info. Three questions if I may, 1. When is the beef tie and how do u use a clay bar. 2. Have u used or know of the Aussie products called Bowdens Own? 3. Do you know of amy good detailers in Brisbane that are on these page as you on this stuff?

[Mrk_Mickey]

I can answer some of that!!

1. Not sure what you're asking about a beef tie:nana: but I can tell you how to use a clay bar. Basically, they act as a stain/trapped dirt lifter to completely clean the paint's surface, for prepping or for finishing. To clay the car, you need a claybar and a bottle of claybar lubricant. First, spray a small section (30x30cm or so) of the car with lubricant, and get your claybar in a flat shape and glide it along the lubricated area. Make sure you don't apply any pressure!!. The claybar does all the work when you let it glide without friction. Just go back and forth in horizontal or vertical passes making sure you cover the whole area.

Once you have covered the area with the claybar, buff the area clean with a microfibre cloth and move on to the next section. If your claybar starts to get a bit dull and dirty just knead it in your hands, fold it in half and make a new flat surface.

Not sure about questions 2 or 3 but I do know people have had their car detailed in Brisbane and they have come back here with pictures with their cars looking brilliant. If you do a quick search on the forum for detailing, you should find a thread with some info for brisbane. Good luck mate:)

[DMS_Dan]

1. Mickey summed it up well. Im assuming beef tie is best time. The best time is when after washing your car still feels rough to the touch.

2. Yes i have. their wash is nice, everything else is so-so.

3. Yes. Chris at driven by shine www.drivenbyshine.com.au

[Manaz]

Before using a claybar, you need to warm it up to make it pliable and sticky.

You do this by taking as much as you'll be using (1/3 to 1/2 a "full bar" should be plenty), flattening it out, folding it over, squashing it together, and repeating until it's soft and pliable. At that point, it'll do its best work.

[DMS_Dan]

Before using a claybar, you need to warm it up to make it pliable and sticky.

You do this by taking as much as you'll be using (1/3 to 1/2 a "full bar" should be plenty), flattening it out, folding it over, squashing it together, and repeating until it's soft and pliable. At that point, it'll do its best work.

Very true! Unless your in Canberra and its 5 degrees at which point you resort to a hairdryer LOL good times indeed

[AGO41T]

how often do u use this claybar thing? before everywash?

[jasn78]

how often do u use this claybar thing? before everywash?

No mate, the clay bars can sometimes come with a plastic bag or just grab one rub ur hand along the paint work if its rough u need to clay :)

[Mrk_Mickey]

I think it's usually done on a well-maintained car bi-annually. Otherwise, every 2-4 months would be sufficient I think, that about right Dan?

[apom]

Awesome, thanks Dan and others, firstly on the information and secondly on craftily deciphering "beef tie" into "best time" :wasntme:

I have no idea how I got that!!

[DMS_Dan]

I think it's usually done on a well-maintained car bi-annually. Otherwise, every 2-4 months would be sufficient I think, that about right Dan?

Yeah its an as needed thing. If the car is well looked after and has a quality wax or sealant on it then every 6 months should be sufficient but some like to do it every 3 months.

No worries apom. I type some odd things sometimes hence i worked it out lol

[AusScare]

My Dad got his Liberty's rear bumper resprayed after reversing into something. Less than a month later he has managed to reverse into two more things (he's blind in his right eye, so depth perception is shot).

I've given the spots a bit of a cut and wax, but I'm thinking more can be done.

I need to buy new cut/polish anyway, so would that help in getting paint and small scratch marks out?

New paint, thus why in this thread. Also, how to protect it further?

[Mrk_Mickey]

You need to make sure that the polish you use has an abraisive compound to it, otherwise it's most likely going to be a ''filler'' whereby the product fills itself into scratches, therefore only temporarily sorting the problem.

An abraisive polish will cut it back so that the scratch is effectively feathered out so you won't see it. Best way to protect the panel is polishing the panel once it's been cleaned, and then putting sealant or wax onto it. Oh, and good eyesight ;) :)

[DMS_Dan]

Grab a menzerna sampler kit from www.carcareproducts.com.au (dont forget the forum discount code) then top it with a sealant or wax as mickey said. I would suggest Duragloss 105 for ease of use and durability

[The One-Armed Man]

Grab a menzerna sampler kit from www.carcareproducts.com.au (dont forget the forum discount code)

I'd like to buy some stuff from carcareproducts, can someone please help me out with the forum discount code?

[brad]

I'd like to buy some stuff from carcareproducts, can someone please help me out with the forum discount code?

search button: "car care products discount" gives one result

[The One-Armed Man]

Thanks Brad.

[GIB-8]

Just an interesting topic, I'll like to know since we have water restrictions here. If i take it down to car wash place where you place coins and spray wash, would the pressurised water damage the paintjob? and is the water always clean water? Thanks guys.

[DMS_Dan]

No just stand around 1m back. The water is usually fine but finish with the spot free rinse just in case

[GIB-8]

sweet.. thanks dan

[Gravey]

great thread - thanks to all who contributed!

[juv3]

guys, with clay for new car

is that mean after picking up the new car > arrive at home > use the clay to clean the car?

or

wash the car > dry > apply the clay

sorry I really new into this :P

[Mrk_Mickey]

Wash the car first, dry it (you can leave a little bit of water on, it's just extra lubrication), and then apply the claybar with some clay lubricant.

[gregozedobe]

sorry I really new into this :P

Probably worth doing a bit of research on how to use a clay bar properly - there are lots of good guides online explaining how to do it. Many of the detailing forums and O/S detailing suppliers have good info.

You will feel when the clay is picking up contaminants off the paint, when they are all gone the clay should slide smoothly over the paint without sticking or grittiness(sp?).

Remember to fold the dirty side into the dirty side, and if you drop the clay throw it away (don't try to pick the visible bits out of the clay, you will miss some and end up damaging your paint).

[juv3]

cool

thanks guys

[JVLR32]

guys, with clay for new car

is that mean after picking up the new car > arrive at home > use the clay to clean the car?

or

wash the car > dry > apply the clay

sorry I really new into this :P

as i am very big on prep.....dry the car completely
far as iam concern leaving water left on car dirt particles can be within that drop of water left....

using clay....forward strokes and backward..no circle motions
as lube...i use iva two,a soap car wash but find a good window cleaner does a excellent job...:cool:

[juv3]

Thanks :)

going to try today...hope its not raining

[gregozedobe]

as lube...i use iva two,a soap car wash but find a good window cleaner does a excellent job...:cool:

What lube works best depends on the clay, I have read of some clays starting to fall apart with some detergents/washes.

I use Bilt Hamber clay (from the UK) which is designed to be used with plain water as the lubricant, but I find I have to frequently replenish the layer of water for it to work properly without sticking.

[JVLR32]

What lube works best depends on the clay, I have read of some clays starting to fall apart with some detergents/washes.

I use Bilt Hamber clay (from the UK) which is designed to be used with plain water as the lubricant, but I find I have to frequently replenish the layer of water for it to work properly without sticking.

yep theres a clay i also have used is called 3M clay works perfect with water

[carcareproducts]

Guys,

For claying you should really use a proper clay lube. Water is a lubricant but not a great one, some shampoo solutions and window cleaners will actually dissolve and break down your clay. A clay lube is designed to give maximum slip and not breakdown the clay, they are not expensive - e.g. Dodo Juice Born Slippy is $24 for 250ml concentrate that makes 2.5 litres of lube.

Good lubrication equals less chance of marring and scratching (so does a quality clay). After you have seen what can be done with a cheap clay bar and just water then you will never do it again :eek:

[JVLR32]

thats true:cool:....never have had break down of clay thou

[Mrk_Mickey]

thats true:cool:....never have had break down of clay thou

I did tonight....at work we used to use an alkaline based cleaner for wheels and it got into BOTH of my little boxes of clay. Bye bye clay.

[JVLR32]

The M3 clay comes with a plastic jar
if i use any other clay i always spray with a solution and than wrap in plastic:banana:

[gregozedobe]

I use Bilt Hamber clay (from the UK) which is designed to be used with plain water as the lubricant,


Guys,

For claying you should really use a proper clay lube. Water is a lubricant but not a great one, some shampoo solutions and window cleaners will actually dissolve and break down your clay. A clay lube is designed to give maximum slip and not breakdown the clay...

Good lubrication equals less chance of marring and scratching (so does a quality clay). After you have seen what can be done with a cheap clay bar and just water then you will never do it again :eek:

As I said - SOME clays ARE designed to be used with plain water and so don't need a special lubricant.

See: http://www.bilthamber.com/autoclay.html


Competing clays require the use of special lubricants. Bilt-Hamber Laboratories Auto-clay differs as its formulation enables normal tap water to provide the necessary lubrication.

I haven't had any marring or scratching problems using the B-H clay, and I've used it a lot to remove stubborn rail dust from the roof of my Transporter which has very soft paint. ( CCP : PM me if you want to try out a sample of B-H clay)

I have no doubt that using plain water with a clay that is formulated for use with a lubricant will create problems.

[Mrk_Mickey]

I don't think it will create problems as such, I just think that with the clay that is designed for use with lubricant won't work as well. And of course, if the clay itself differs between the models (ie the lubricant-designed clay is stickier than the water-designed one) then it could be more difficult for beginners to get it right.

But hey...that's just my thoughts, I could be way off! :D

[emuexport]

Great thread.

Just want to check a few things!

I dont have to Clay the car if I use Dodo Lime Prime Lite?

I was going to stay with all Dodo products and see how that works.

Dodo Born to Be Mild
Dodo Lime Prime Lite
Dodo Supernatural Paste Wax

Anything I should be aware of?

I dont mind spending some quality time washing and waxing the car so I can make sure it stays Schmick! :D

[Transporter]

Great thread.

Just want to check a few things!

I don't have to Clay the car if I use Dodo Lime Prime Lite?

I was going to stay with all Dodo products and see how that works.

Dodo Born to Be Mild
Dodo Lime Prime Lite
Dodo Supernatural Paste Wax

Anything I should be aware of?

I don't mind spending some quality time washing and waxing the car so I can make sure it stays Schmick! :D

You will need to at some stage when you paint will not feel smooth even after waxing. On our 11 years old car I used clay bar 2x, the paint work looks like new (parked under the sky 100% of the time). :)

But hey I'm not an expert on The body care products! Lets see what the pro's have to say?

[carcareproducts]

As I said - SOME clays ARE designed to be used with plain water and so don't need a special lubricant.

See: http://www.bilthamber.com/autoclay.html

I haven't had any marring or scratching problems using the B-H clay, and I've used it a lot to remove stubborn rail dust from the roof of my Transporter which has very soft paint. ( CCP : PM me if you want to try out a sample of B-H clay)

I have no doubt that using plain water with a clay that is formulated for use with a lubricant will create problems.

Thanks for the info and the offer of a sample, I already have both of the BH clays here which I have tested quite extensively. On some paints they do not induce marring with water as the lubricant but with some paints, dark porsche paint, subaru for example marring was easily induced even using the BH soft clay and lots of water.

I know on the BH website it states water only but it also states "Listen carefully - at first you will hear the bar as it pulls the particles away from the paint, the noise and friction will disappear quickly." ALL clay is 'abrasive' that is how it can pull contamination of paint, after playing with loads of different clays, hundreds of cars I would still not recommend using water alone, lube is superior at allowing the clay to glide across the surface - but this is based on my experience and only IMHO. Like a lot of products/techniques there is no absolute right or wrong but a few shades of grey...

[carcareproducts]

Great thread.

Just want to check a few things!

I dont have to Clay the car if I use Dodo Lime Prime Lite?

I was going to stay with all Dodo products and see how that works.

Dodo Born to Be Mild
Dodo Lime Prime Lite
Dodo Supernatural Paste Wax

Anything I should be aware of?

I dont mind spending some quality time washing and waxing the car so I can make sure it stays Schmick! :D

It depends on the paint condition but a clay is usually needed if it has not been clayed in the last 6-12 months or even sometimes needed when your car is new. So the steps:

Wash
Dry
Clay
Pre-Wax Cleanser - (Lime Prime or Lime Prime Lite)
Wax

The clay will remove any contamination that is bonded to the paint and the Lime Prime/Lite will prepare the surface perfectly for waxing by removing any old wax or polish, grease or oils and enhancing the gloss - this way the wax can bond to the paint nicely increasing the durability and performance.

Hope this helps

[gregozedobe]

...... after playing with loads of different clays, hundreds of cars I would still not recommend using water alone, lube is superior at allowing the clay to glide across the surface - but this is based on my experience and only IMHO. Like a lot of products/techniques there is no absolute right or wrong but a few shades of grey...

I bow to your superior knowledge and vastly greater experience :notworthy:

I have only used the BH clay on my current two vehicles (the white T5 has soft paint, the yellow paint on the Skoda is MUCH harder).

[JVLR32]

From my experience,,,they both work effectively water and lub.
Its the same old broken record PREP PREP PREP

[emuexport]

It depends on the paint condition but a clay is usually needed if it has not been clayed in the last 6-12 months or even sometimes needed when your car is new. So the steps:

Wash
Dry
Clay
Pre-Wax Cleanser - (Lime Prime or Lime Prime Lite)
Wax

The clay will remove any contamination that is bonded to the paint and the Lime Prime/Lite will prepare the surface perfectly for waxing by removing any old wax or polish, grease or oils and enhancing the gloss - this way the wax can bond to the paint nicely increasing the durability and performance.

Hope this helps

Exactly what I was after. Thanks heaps.