View Full Version : Back in the Diesel game
Hello all,
I have finally resolved my golflessness with 2 Mk 1 diesels. The red one is very tidy inside without rust. The fawn car is a bit shabbier but straight. Looks like I'll be spending a bit more time on the forum, especially in the parts for sale thread
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5095-2.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5096-2.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5099-2.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5101-2.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5102-2.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5110-2.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5112-2.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5123-2.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5127-2.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5130-2.jpg
Golf Loon
12-04-2009, 08:51 PM
Nice work mate. Where did you score them?
Greg Roles
12-04-2009, 09:00 PM
You gotta love those older engine bays, not chock full of hoses and gadgets.
Hours of fun awaiting you mate, love a good resto project!!
Gotta do something about that warm air intake though!
East of melbourne, on a farm in the hills. They were advertised in the local trading post. I plan to install a 5 speed box, decent suspension and nice wheels and tyres on the red car or maybe have a TD or TDI fantasy. Do you have any bits for sale along these lines? The tan car will most likely be tidied up, roadworthied and sold.
gldgti
14-04-2009, 11:00 PM
nice find mate, happy dieseling ;-)
Jarred
14-04-2009, 11:29 PM
welcome back to the game! :D
GoLfMan
15-04-2009, 10:14 AM
awesome, another couple saved :)
peedman
15-04-2009, 03:58 PM
Gooo the diesels!!! Nice pickups, do they start and run ok?
The problem with finding a td is that they are rare as rocking horse poop as we didnt get the mk2 1.6td or the mk3 1.9td. U might be able to find an imported engine tho if u look and wait long enough!
Coaster
17-04-2009, 08:36 PM
2!! That's just selfish!
Keep us posted on the work :goodluck:
Bam Bam
22-04-2009, 12:32 AM
Its not really selfish as there are two of us involved. Hi, I'm Leah, Matts partner in this crazy project!
On the weekend we chased electrical gremlins all over the red car. Whenever something started working, something else stopped. At best we had the interior light, headlights and the occasional indicator working. We decided to swap the fusebox for a spare and viola! everything was fixed! Then we tested the glow plugs, checked the cam timing and valve clearances, all were ok but still it wouldnt start. We're going to check the injector pump timing next.
Today we took delivery of a set of golf mag wheels, tyres and king springs. We also ordered a 5 speed box from Mr Loon. This car is going to be sensational!
Next we will check the tan car and try to start it...... Wish us luck!
gldgti
22-04-2009, 07:31 AM
Its not really selfish as there are two of us involved. Hi, I'm Leah, Matts partner in this crazy project!
On the weekend we chased electrical gremlins all over the red car. Whenever something started working, something else stopped. At best we had the interior light, headlights and the occasional indicator working. We decided to swap the fusebox for a spare and viola! everything was fixed! Then we tested the glow plugs, checked the cam timing and valve clearances, all were ok but still it wouldnt start. We're going to check the injector pump timing next.
Today we took delivery of a set of golf mag wheels, tyres and king springs. We also ordered a 5 speed box from Mr Loon. This car is going to be sensational!
Next we will check the tan car and try to start it...... Wish us luck!
Welcome Leah!
sounds like a classic case of fusebox corrosion as far as the initial electrical problems... you can fix them if they arent too far gone and you're handy with a soldering iron. although it seems as not - the fusebox will come apart.
on the starting issue - IP timing is important, but as with most old mk1 diesels the usually neglected thing is the glo-plugs and earth straps. new earth staps and battery leads will help cranking speed (VERY important on an old diesel) and glow plugs a LOT (as well as all the other electrics.) furthermore, a new set of glow plugs is fairly cheap, but since you guys have a bunch of stuff to do on both cars, i reckon this websie will help you sourcing some new little parts for cheap - www.dieselvw.com - none of the parts will say "to suit 1.5diesel" because the yanks had the 1.6 in more numbers, but 99.99% of the 1.6 parts fit the 1.5 (including injector tips and glow plugs).
finally, ensure you have an air free fuel supply to the pump - easiest way is to replace all the old fuel hoses (even the return lines) with new ones.
even if the pump timing is off a little bit, you will be able to start the car if you have good glow plugs and good fuel supply and good cranking speed - try roll starting it or tow starting it.
Today the tan car started! Woohoo! More or less first go too. Cam and valve clearances were checked first and were a little odd. The exhaust clearances were all 0.3 to 0.5 mm but the inlet were 0.2 to 0.3 with the exception of No. 2 inlet which was 0.6!! Any ideas on what this could be a result of?? I suspect that its a rebuilt head. The previous owner testified under oath that it was recently rebuilt motor after a "timing issue" totalled the previous head. It also has a rebuilt pump. None the less, it runs nicely and has little blowby and no oil in the intake.
So, we have a tidy car with a shagged motor, and a messy car with tidy motor. What to do........
Seems obvious doesnt it.
Buy another motor for the tidy car and rebuild the dud motor for a TD project!
Anyone have an ok diesel motor for sale?
What the hell is this thing for?
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5151r-1.jpg
its connected to the cylinder head where the oil pressure sensor is and drains into the block, see below.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5152r-1.jpg
I assume its a filter but what would filtering oil from this point achieve??? If anything its going to reduce oil pressure...... Its coming off.
Also, why doesnt this motor have the coiled oil supply pipe to the vacuum pump?
Transporter
22-04-2009, 10:28 PM
What the hell is this thing for?
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5151r-1.jpg
its connected to the cylinder head where the oil pressure sensor is and drains into the block, see below.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/04/IMG_5152r-1.jpg
I assume its a filter but what would filtering oil from this point achieve??? If anything its going to reduce oil pressure...... Its coming off.
Also, why doesnt this motor have the coiled oil supply pipe to the vacuum pump?
It could be the oil by-pass filter. They don't reduce the oil pressure and if they block up, it doesn't matter. When you start the engine check if it is the same temperature as the engine, if not it is blocked - replace it with the new one. Amsoil type from the Amsoil distributor, they should have the thread reducer if it doesn't have the same thread. Or disconnect it.
The tan car has been started and driven about 100kms. At first it was very smokey but after a about 10 minutes it came good. It runs very nicely, revs well and blows a bit of smoke when floored. The front suspension is shagged though and the gearbox linkages have 1st and 2nd somewhere over with reverse, its pot luck at the lights! This week we’ll do the following in preparation for a roadworthy:
minor rust repairs to the hatch and the base of the a pillar
adjust gear linkages to make first/second easy to find
adjust rear drums and handbrake
fit new dampers and king springs, cut bump stop in half
fit battery clamp
fit horn button
make wiring loom for rear wiper
replace rear muffler (rusted out)
replace windscreen
oil and filters change
connect speedo cable
swap wheels
replace rear muffler
The red car will be garaged while I build a turbo motor. The following bits I have:
Shagged 1.6NA motor
TD oil cooler
TD exhaust manifold
K-jet inlet manifold
1.6TD Injector pump
Kkk k14 turbo
5 speed gearbox
Still need:
Head studs
Oil supply and return for turbo
Intercooler
Parts for engine build (pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets etc)
1.6TD oil pump
EGT sensor and gauge
Boost gauge
Oil pressure gauge
Coolant tank with level sensor
Rear sway bar
Front lower brace
Front upper brace
Got a question: what bushes should be replaced with new rubber or urethane bushes?
gldgti
06-05-2009, 05:43 PM
hey mate...
i see no need to change the oil pump if you have a 1.6 engine already... it is the same (or should i say, equivalent).
i think your best bet for oil lines will be somewhere like pirtek - you might have to settle for flexible lines.
i suppose you're already read up on the turbo/non turbo differences, but the main one is the piston cooling oil jets, which you're engine wont have.... this is not too much of a big deal given its going in a mk1, but don't expect to make more than about 110-120hp and keep you're engine for a long time. as long as the exhaust is pretty free flowing and you run a nice big intercooler, i reckon you'll be right as far as EGT's go.
if you're doing bushings, the big ones are the lower control arms and the rear suspension beam...
PS - why do you need a coolant tank with level sensor???
Thanks for your words of wisdom Ayden, I think that I will be calling on you for many more on this project.
The coolant level? well, ive been hurt and i dont want to be hurt again.
I had re-ringed a 1.5 motor with a rebuilt head, all hoses replaced except one, the one that split open and dumped all the coolant. Motor overheated without registering on the temp gauge, blowing the head gasket and severely warping the head. It wasnt until i had another replacement head built that i discovered that the block had cracked.
The tan car now has king springs and new dampers fitted, It sits a bit higher in the rear, and lower in the front, which is good. Before it was ready for takeoff with the ass squatted and the nose in the air.
I still have to adjust the shift linkages, diagnose a nasty rattle in the exhaust at idle, adjust the drum brakes, change oil and filters, fix some minor rust, replace the windscreen and its done!!
Heres some photos of the progress, scrubbed up ok huh!
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/IMG_5161-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/IMG_5162-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/IMG_5163-1.jpg
And with wheels and suspension
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/05/IMG_5176-1.jpg
I took it for a spin and from the few roundabouts near my place i can say that it is a vast improvement! Thrilled to bits
The front and rear screens are out for some rust repairs. The front screen is going to be replaced.
Theres a nasty rattle/banging from under the car when idling. I think its the exhaust pipe hitting the tunnel somewhere. The exhaust mounts are all good so it may be a dud engine mount. A very slight increase in idle speed fixes it so i think thats what I'll do.
I suspect that the thermo fan switch is a dud. THe fan works when the switch is bypassed. I'm going to add a relay, a manual switch and an indicator light for the fan. I have wired up the rear wiper and washer using a pair of relays.
So with that there will be 5 aftermarket relays. I can think of another 2 at least. A glow relay relay to protect the expensive glow relay and and a starter relay. I love relays.
New windscreen goes in tomorrow, RWC inspection wednesday and Vicroads inspection booked for next monday!!
Wish me luck!
Jarred
11-05-2009, 01:00 PM
geez, you arent mucking about. good luck!
Thanks Jarred,
hows your car going? Love to see some more photos
Jarred
11-05-2009, 05:13 PM
Thanks Jarred,
hows your car going? Love to see some more photos
well it's getting rego tomorrow. there should be a bit of an update tomorrow in the thread. lots of :driver: soon though, that's for sure!
Roadworthy test conducted today and it failed!!!!
Its not bad news though just the following:
A park light (intermittent)
Left front brake hose twisted (in the grommet on the strut i assume, easy fix)
Secure Rear mudflaps
fit spare
replace four tyres
The last is a mystery as they are not down to the wear indicators and they are evenly worn. I may have to wave VSI26 in his face.
I'm surprised that the exhaust passed, it sounds like a race car atm!
Tonight I fix, tomorrow reassess and then into vicroads on Monday for registering the sucker!
Jarred
13-05-2009, 05:36 PM
Maybe the tyres have cracks in teh side walls, or are generally just old and worn out?
Interesting that you need a spare. my spare wasn't secure, and they said i could just take it out, and that would fix it.
secure rear mud flaps... interesting...
where did you go, just out of curiosity?
It was at a place in west brunswick.
It really should have failed on exhaust, the thing sounds raw!
the tyres are fine, evenly worn yoki a539's on the front and bridgestone somethingorothers on the back. all are 185/60's. They look awesome!
I have a set of std wheels with cheesecutter tyres that should pass. Then I'll just swap them back.
Oh, he wants a spare too......
anyway, I'd like to say AWWYEAH!
My project motor arrived this morning. Its a 1.6 diesel from america via Andrews workshop in Tassie. I'm going to pull it to bits this weekend and have the head and block crack tested and the bores measured.
GoLfMan
13-05-2009, 07:46 PM
well done for getting cracking on this project matey, thats a pretty small list and easily fixed, well done!
a spare isnt legally required so Im not sure why he is asking for one!
best of luck, would be great to have another mk1 on the road. Love your work
Thanks golfman,
I had a new muffler fitted. It was beyond reasonable how loud it was. I'm a bit sad as the car pulled really well and revved nicely, better than any other diesel golf I've driven.
The cheesecutters are back on. They look terrible, you know how 30yo std rims look when they've been sprayed silver to cover the rust. I have a bnib set of 13" polo wheels that I'll have the tires shifted onto if the rwc man passes them as roadworthy. Then its all friggin done!
I do think that theres a problem with the engine or the engine mounts. The car shakes excessively at idle, things bang and rattle and its generally awful.
Is there any way to easily check the mounts?
Thanks guys and girls!
gldgti
14-05-2009, 09:25 PM
nice you've got it goin mate...
if you have the (awesome) A539's, thats probably why you were failed. Those tyres have been out of production for atleast 3-4 years... he probly figured they were old and hard.
the creamy tan coloured car passed its roadworthy on friday and vicroads inspection on monday!! woohoo!
I also found out that the motor is a low kms transplant with only 180k! sweet!
so if you see a beige golf tearing around in a cloud of black smoke, then it could be me or leah in our new toy!
Next is the TD motor build........... Its in the garage just waiting for us to pull it to bits!!
the rough idle is getting very annoying, could it be because one inlet valve clearance is way too big? what else can cause rough idle on a 1.5 diesel?
Otherwise, the car is going fab. Its amazing how a car deteriorates when it isnt driven, and how it starts to look better again when its back on the road!
Jarred
20-05-2009, 10:49 PM
congrats on getting it roadworthy!
we replaced the glow plugs today and checked the valve clearances again. Old plugs were half duds and the valve clearances good bar one inlet valve that has way too much clearance. We also added a relay to the radiator fan circuit, with a manual on switch and indicator light. Did i mention that i love relays??
Anyway, does anyone have any suggestions as to the source of the shakey motor? Its worst when cold.
I bought the teardrop rims off Golfloon, gonna put them on tomorrow, should look really nice - Thanks Loon!
Matt
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